How to Diagnose and Fix a Clicking Noise in Your 2016 Dodge Charger

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A persistent clicking noise in your 2016 Dodge Charger can be a distracting and concerning issue. While the specific source of the sound can vary, owner discussions and experiences point to several common areas to investigate, particularly around the gas pedal assembly and modifications to the exhaust system. As one owner shared about their long-term experience, "Single owner off the show room floor in 2016. Still pulls hard, still smile everytime I drive it." — OkFinger5696. This guide will help you diagnose and address the clicking based on real-world data from other Charger owners.

Symptoms

Owners describe a variety of noises that often accompany or are mistaken for a simple click. A common report is a flickering or intermittent noise that seems to correlate with pedal movement or engine load. This isn't always a standalone sound; it can be part of a suite of auditory clues. For instance, some owners note a low, rough idle that may coincide with the clicking, suggesting a potential vibration or loose component that manifests as a click at certain RPMs.

Other related symptoms pulled from owner discussions include grinding noises, which could indicate a more severe issue if the click is a precursor, and general humming from the drivetrain or exhaust. Scratches and dings, often on the front bumper from road debris, are not a direct cause of clicking but highlight that these vehicles encounter wear that can loosen fittings and brackets over time, potentially leading to rattles and clicks. The key is to note when the click occurs: during acceleration, at idle, when turning, or when the climate control system is active.

It's also vital to consider recent modifications. A change in the exhaust note or new components can introduce unexpected resonances or contact points. As one owner modifying their RT noted, "Did mid muffler delete and swapped the rear resonators for two Carven TR mufflers." — the_kyle_kapp. Such alterations can change stress points on the exhaust hangers and nearby heat shields, which are prime suspects for metallic clicking and rattling sounds.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the parts mentioned and symptoms described by owners, the most likely cause of a clicking noise is a loose or worn component in the accelerator pedal assembly or its associated linkages and sensors. The gas pedal in modern vehicles like the Charger is typically a "drive-by-wire" system, meaning there is no physical cable connecting it to the throttle body. Instead, it uses sensors and an electronic motor. A worn pivot point, a loose mounting bracket, or a failing sensor within the pedal assembly can produce a distinct clicking sound when pressure is applied or released.

This issue can be exacerbated by general vehicle age and mileage. With high-mileage examples still running strong—"2016 V6 dodge pursuit 305k miles strong" — Tyronebespazzin—it's a testament to the powertrain's durability but also means plastic and composite components in the cabin, like pedal assemblies, endure hundreds of thousands of actuations. Furthermore, vibrations from a modified exhaust or from worn engine mounts can travel through the firewall and make an otherwise minor pedal issue more pronounced.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a click requires a systematic approach to isolate the sound. You'll need a flashlight, a mechanics stethoscope (or a long screwdriver to use as a listening tool), and a helper.

Step 1: Locate the Sound. With the vehicle parked and the engine off, have your helper sit in the driver's seat. Press and release the gas pedal repeatedly while you listen from outside the car, under the hood, and inside the footwell. Try to pinpoint if the click is coming from inside the cabin near the pedal or from the engine bay near the firewall.

Step 2: Check for Loose Components. Visually inspect the gas pedal assembly. Look for any obvious cracks in the plastic, loose screws mounting it to the firewall, or any debris lodged around it. Gently wiggle the pedal to feel for any unusual play or grit in its movement.

Step 3: Inspect Related Areas. Since exhaust modifications are common, get under the vehicle (safely supported on jack stands). Check the entire exhaust path from the manifolds back. Look for any aftermarket components that may be contacting the underbody, crossmembers, or heat shields. A loose heat shield is a classic source of a metallic clicking or rattling sound that changes with engine RPM. Look for the shiny witness marks where metal has been rubbing.

Step 4: Engine Running Test. Start the engine. Does the click occur at idle? Lightly rev the engine from under the hood. If the click correlates with engine vibration and not pedal movement, the source is likely under the hood—possibly a loose accessory bracket, a failing motor in the electronic throttle body, or, as one owner indirectly highlighted with maintenance, a component affected by engine harmonics. "I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this" — Tyronebespazzin, referring to longevity, but consistent maintenance means more inspections where such issues could be caught.

Step-by-Step Fix

If the diagnosis points to the gas pedal assembly, here is how to address it. Warning: Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any electrical work.

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery. Pop the hood and use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut on the negative battery terminal. Remove the cable and secure it away from the terminal to prevent accidental contact.

Step 2: Access the Pedal Assembly. From the driver's footwell, you'll see the plastic accelerator pedal. Trace it up to where it connects to a bracket on the firewall. You may need to remove a trim panel or knee bolster for better access.

Step 3: Disconnect the Electrical Connector. The pedal assembly has an electrical connector. Press the locking tab and carefully unplug it.

Step 4: Remove the Mounting Hardware. The assembly is typically held by two or three Torx or Phillips-head screws. Remove these screws and carefully maneuver the pedal assembly out of its position.

Step 5: Inspect and Replace. Examine the removed assembly. Check the pivot mechanism for wear and the plastic body for stress cracks. In most cases, the entire pedal sensor assembly is replaced as a unit. It is not typically serviceable with individual parts.

Step 6: Install the New Assembly. Position the new pedal assembly and secure it with the original hardware. Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks firmly into place.

Step 7: Reconnect Battery and Calibrate. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position (but do not start the engine) for about 30 seconds. This allows the ECU to relearn the pedal's position. Then start the engine and test the pedal operation and listen for the click.

For an exhaust-related click, the fix involves identifying the contact point. This may require loosening and re-aligning an aftermarket muffler or tip—"they stick out a tad too much" — the_kyle_kapp—or securing a heat shield with a large stainless steel hose clamp. For a loose heat shield, if bolts are broken, a clamp can often cinch it tightly to the exhaust pipe to stop the rattling click.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Replacement Accelerator Pedal Assembly: Mopar part # 68116970AF (Confirm this is correct for your specific V6 or V8 model with your VIN at a dealership parts counter).
• Basic Socket/Wrench Set: Including 10mm for battery terminal.
• Torx/Phillips Screwdrivers: For pedal mounting screws (size varies, often T20 or T25).
• Mechanics Stethoscope or Long Screwdriver: For diagnosis.
• Jack and Jack Stands: For safe under-vehicle inspection.
• Flashlight.
• Stainless Steel Hose Clamps (Large): For securing loose heat shields (if applicable).

Real Owner Costs

Costs can vary widely based on the root cause and whether you perform the work yourself.

• DIY Pedal Assembly Replacement: The part cost for a new Mopar accelerator pedal assembly typically ranges from $120 to $250. If the fix is securing a heat shield with a clamp, the cost is under $10. One owner shopping for a Charger noted their budget constraint: "I cannot find something better within my budget, max $15K USD" — Leugim7734, highlighting why DIY repairs are valuable for high-mileage vehicles.

• Professional Repair: At a dealership or independent shop, diagnosing a noise can incur a diagnostic fee of $100-$150. If a pedal assembly replacement is approved, labor might add 1-1.5 hours at a rate of $100-$150/hour, bringing the total job cost to $300-$500 or more with parts and tax. Exhaust rattle diagnosis and repair (re-aligning or re-hanging) could be $100-$250 depending on complexity.

Prevention

Preventing clicking noises largely revolves around proactive maintenance and careful modification. Regularly inspect under-hood and under-carriage components when you change your oil. Listen for new or changing sounds. If you modify the exhaust, ensure all new components are properly aligned and securely mounted with adequate clearance from the body. Using high-quality hangers can prevent sagging and contact over time. Adhering to a rigorous maintenance schedule, as one high-mileage owner advocates, keeps everything in better overall condition: "Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this" — Tyronebespazzin. Finally, address minor issues like loose trim or underbody panels promptly before they develop into louder, more annoying clicks or rattles.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Owner Experiences

"Single owner off the show room floor in 2016. Still pulls hard, still smile everytime I drive it." — OkFinger5696 (source)

"2016 V6 dodge pursuit 305k miles strong Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this" — Tyronebespazzin (source)

"Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this" — Tyronebespazzin (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I cannot find something better within my budget, max $15K USD Carfax report is showing a "reconditioned" service." — Leugim7734 (source)

"I've been posting a lot lately, I've been looking for a charger for few weeks now. I cannot find something better within my budget, max $15K USD" — Leugim7734 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a clicking gas pedal? A: For a competent DIYer, diagnosing the sound may take 30-60 minutes. The actual replacement of the pedal assembly, once you have the part, typically takes 45 minutes to 1.5 hours, including battery disconnect/reconnect and the relearn procedure.

Q: Can I drive my Charger with a clicking noise? A: It depends on the source. A click from a loose heat shield or minor exhaust contact is generally not a safety issue, though it is annoying. However, a click from the accelerator pedal assembly could be a sign of a failing sensor. While the vehicle may still operate, a sudden loss of throttle response is a potential (though rare) risk. It's best to diagnose and address it promptly.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2016 Charger? A: Based on owner discussions, clicking and rattling noises from various sources are a common complaint as these vehicles age and accumulate mileage. The gas pedal assembly and exhaust/heat shield rattles are frequent culprits mentioned in forums, especially on higher-mileage and modified examples.

Q: DIY vs mechanic – what's recommended for a clicking noise? A: If you are comfortable with basic tools and electrical safety (disconnecting the battery), diagnosing and fixing a loose heat shield or even replacing the gas pedal assembly is a very achievable DIY job. If the noise is elusive, seems deep within the engine, or you are not confident in your diagnostic skills, paying for a professional diagnosis can save time and money in the long run. They can quickly pinpoint the source, which is often the hardest part.

Q: Could a recent modification cause a new clicking sound? A: Absolutely. As seen in owner posts, modifications like exhaust work are a prime suspect. "Just added hellcat reps, with 275/40/20 goodyears, swapped the airbox for hellcat airbox..." — the_kyle_kapp. Any change to wheels, exhaust, or intake can alter vibrations and clearances. Always double-check the work area and nearby components after any modification for potential new contact points.

Q: My click happens when the A/C is on. Is that related? A: It could be, but it points to a different system. A click that cycles with the A/C compressor engaging and disengaging is likely from the compressor clutch or a related idler pulley. This is a different diagnostic path than a pedal or exhaust click, focusing on the serpentine belt accessories.