Why Your 2017 Chevy Spark is Shaking and How to Fix It for Good
Last reported case: 2 months ago
Based on 51 owner reports (39 from Reddit, 12 from forums)
About This DataLearn more →
Analysis based on 51 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums. Statistics reflect real repair experiences reported by vehicle owners.
Reviewed by AutoHelper Data Team
Last updated: Feb 13, 2026
How to Fix Spark Plug Issue
If your 2017 Chevrolet Spark is shaking, misfiring, or showing a check engine light, a spark plug issue is a likely culprit. While spark plugs are a common wear item, owners have found that simply replacing them isn't always the final fix. The root cause can often be traced to other components, like a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or a clogged PCV valve, which create conditions that foul new plugs. As one owner shared about a similar frustrating experience: "For the past month and a half I’ve taken it in to get worked on for the engine feeling like it’s shaking and throwing codes for misfiring. Two coils, the spark plugs (twice), and oil solenoids were replaced." This guide will help you diagnose and solve the real problem based on actual owner experiences.
Symptoms
The most common symptom reported by owners is a pronounced engine shake, especially at idle or during acceleration. This shaking is a direct result of engine misfires, where one or more cylinders aren't firing correctly due to a weak or absent spark. You'll feel this vibration through the steering wheel, floor, and seats.
Accompanying the shake, the check engine light will almost certainly illuminate. When scanned, the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) will typically point to random or specific cylinder misfires (e.g., P0300, P0301, P0302, etc.). In some cases, owners have reported a high-pitched whine from the engine bay, which can be related to vacuum issues from a failing PCV system affecting engine operation.
It's crucial to understand that these symptoms—shaking and misfire codes—are often the result of the spark plugs failing, not the primary cause. New spark plugs can quickly become fouled again if an underlying issue isn't addressed. Ignoring these symptoms can lead to more severe problems, including damage to the catalytic converter from unburned fuel or, in extreme cases, engine overheating from poor combustion.
Most Likely Cause
Based on owner data, the most likely cause of recurring spark plug issues in this vehicle is a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. While a clogged PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve is also a known contributor, the MAF sensor is frequently implicated when multiple replacements of plugs and coils don't solve the problem. The MAF sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine so the computer can deliver the correct amount of fuel. When it fails or gets dirty, it sends incorrect data.
A bad MAF sensor can cause the engine to run with an incorrect air/fuel mixture—either too rich (too much fuel) or too lean (too little fuel). A rich mixture, in particular, can quickly foul spark plugs with carbon deposits, leading to misfires and shaking. This explains why owners replace plugs only to have the problem return shortly after. As one owner troubleshooting a persistent issue noted: "I’m stuck between changing the TPS, MAF or the MAP sensor but all are pricey." This highlights the diagnostic crossover, where the MAF is a prime suspect for drivability problems that survive basic part swaps.
How to Diagnose
Proper diagnosis saves time and money by preventing unnecessary part replacement. You will need an OBD2 code scanner, a basic set of hand tools, and possibly a multimeter.
Step 1: Read the Codes. Connect your OBD2 scanner. The presence of misfire codes (P0300-P0304) confirms the symptom. Also, look for codes related to the fuel system (like P0171 for system too lean or P0172 for system too rich) or the MAF sensor itself (like P0101, P0102, P0103). These provide direct clues.
Step 2: Inspect the Spark Plugs. If safe to do so, remove one or two spark plugs. Examine the electrode and ceramic insulator. Heavy black, sooty carbon deposits indicate a rich fuel mixture, often pointing to a MAF or oxygen sensor issue. Oil-fouled plugs (wet, black deposits) suggest engine oil is entering the combustion chamber, which can be related to PCV system problems or worn engine components.
Step 3: Check the MAF Sensor. Locate the MAF sensor in the air intake hose between the air filter box and the throttle body. Visually inspect the sensor element for dirt or debris. A simple test is to unplug the MAF sensor electrical connector with the engine idling. If the idle smooths out or changes significantly, it suggests the MAF sensor data was corrupt and the engine has defaulted to a pre-programmed fuel map. This is a strong indicator of a faulty sensor.
Step 4: Inspect the PCV Valve. The PCV valve is a small, inexpensive part typically located on the valve cover or connected to it by a hose. Remove it and shake it. You should hear a distinct rattling sound from the internal check valve. If it's silent, it's clogged and needs replacement. A clogged PCV valve can increase crankcase pressure, forcing oil vapor past seals and into the intake, fouling plugs.
Step-by-Step Fix
This fix addresses both the immediate spark plug replacement and the likely root cause. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning work for safety.
Step 1: Gather Parts and Tools. Ensure you have the correct spark plugs (see Parts section), a new PCV valve, MAF sensor cleaner, and basic socket/wrench sets.
Step 2: Replace the PCV Valve. This is the easiest and cheapest first step. Locate the PCV valve, often held by a rubber grommet or a small hose clamp. Gently pull it out, replace it with the new one, and reconnect any hoses. As one owner emphasized regarding a similar oil-consumption fix: "The cause of your oil consumption is stuck oil control rings. For about $125, you can solve this problem (price includes new OEM spark plugs, two oil changes... and a new PCV valve)."
Step 3: Clean the MAF Sensor. Remove the MAF sensor from the intake hose. Spray the exposed wire or sensor element liberally with MAF sensor cleaner only (never use brake cleaner or compressed air). Let it air dry completely for 10-15 minutes before reinstalling. This can restore proper function without replacement.
Step 4: Replace the Spark Plugs. Remove the engine cover if present. Carefully disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector on the first cylinder. Remove the coil bolt and pull the coil pack straight out. Use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a long extension to remove the old plug. Before installing the new plug, check the gap with a feeler gauge and adjust if necessary (though many come pre-gapped). Hand-thread the new plug carefully to avoid cross-threading, then torque to specification (typically 15-20 ft-lbs, but consult your manual). Reinstall the coil and connector. Repeat for all cylinders.
Step 5: Reset the ECU. Reconnect the battery. Start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. The engine computer needs to relearn fuel trims and idle settings. The check engine light may go out on its own after several drive cycles, or you can clear the codes with your scanner.
Parts and Tools Needed
- Spark Plugs: Use OEM-specified plugs. Common for this engine are Iridium plugs like ACDelco 41-114 or equivalent NGK/Denzo. Always verify the correct part number for your specific engine.
- PCV Valve: ACDelco CV203C or equivalent.
- MAF Sensor Cleaner: CRC 05110 Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner.
- Tools: OBD2 code scanner, 3/8" ratchet and socket set (including a 5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket with a rubber insert), 6-8 inch extension, torque wrench, flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, pliers.
- Optional but Recommended: Dielectric grease for coil pack boots, a small amount of anti-seize compound for spark plug threads (use sparingly if the plugs are not pre-coated).
Real Owner Costs
Costs vary dramatically between DIY and shop repairs, especially when the root cause is misdiagnosed.
DIY Repair (Addressing Root Cause):
- Basic (Plugs & PCV): A set of 4 quality spark plugs ($25-$40) plus a PCV valve ($10-$15). With tools you already own, total cost is $35-$55.
- Comprehensive (Plugs, PCV, MAF Clean/Replace): Plugs ($40), PCV valve ($15), MAF cleaner ($10). If a new MAF sensor is needed, add $80-$150 for the part. Total DIY cost range: $65 to $205.
Professional Shop Repair: Shops often charge for diagnosis and may replace components sequentially. One owner's experience illustrates the potential for high costs: "Two coils, the spark plugs (twice), and oil solenoids were replaced." A bill like this, without finding the root cause, could easily exceed $1,000. A more straightforward repair at a shop might include:
- 1 hour of diagnosis ($100-$150)
- Labor to replace plugs and PCV valve (1-1.5 hours, $100-$200)
- Parts markup (plugs $60, PCV $25)
- Total estimated shop cost: $285 to $435.
If the shop replaces the MAF sensor, add another $150-$300 for the part and labor. The DIY approach, focusing on the PCV and MAF, can save hundreds of dollars.
Prevention
Preventing spark plug issues is about maintaining the systems that affect combustion.
- Regular Air Filter Changes: A dirty air filter can contaminate the MAF sensor and disrupt airflow. Change it according to your severe service schedule, typically every 15,000-30,000 miles.
- Use Top-Tier Fuel and Consider Oil Weight: Higher-quality fuel has better detergents. For engine longevity, one experienced mechanic advised: "Switch to 5w-30 full synthetic... It's what the 6.6L gas motors come from the factory with." While your Spark's specification differs, the principle of using a quality, manufacturer-recommended oil is universal. Always consult your owner's manual for the correct oil grade.
- Follow a Rigorous Maintenance Protocol: Adopt a proactive mindset. "Fluids and filters are cheap insurance against mechanical failures," as one owner put it. This includes regular oil changes with full synthetic oil—considering more frequent intervals if you do lots of short trips. Sticking to the factory maintenance schedule for spark plug replacement (often around 100,000 miles for iridium) is also key.
- Periodic MAF Sensor Cleaning: Every other oil change or once a year, clean the MAF sensor with proper cleaner. This simple, 10-minute task can prevent a host of drivability problems.
- Replace the PCV Valve Proactively: Consider replacing the PCV valve every 60,000 miles as inexpensive preventive maintenance to protect against oil-related fouling.
What Owners Say
Real experiences from CHEVROLET owners:
Success Stories
"For the past month and a half I’ve taken it in to get worked on for the engine feeling like it’s shaking and throwing codes for misfiring. Two coils, the spark plugs (twice), and oil solenoids were replaced." — Otis_The_Pony (source)
"No mechanics will work on it saying it’s not worth the price it will be for the new engine and labor cost and that basically I need a new car. For the past month and a half I’ve taken it in to get worked on for the engine feeling like it’s shaking and throwing codes for misfiring." — Otis_The_Pony (source)
"Breaks my heart: this was his first brand new car, dreamed of owning it, worked so hard to afford it and now he’s just so whatever about it. I figure now that we have a third car he can use as a beater and the garage space to work on the WRX now is the time." — shittysecretary (source)
Owner Experiences
"Yes - changing oil every 3000 miles is key, but obviously this alone doesn't prevent oil control rings from eventually sticking. The cause of your oil consumption is stuck oil control rings." — aquapura89 (3,000 miles) (source)
"Switch to 5w-30 full synthetic (my 2017 6.2L has 180k without any drop in mpg or oil consumption on this program. It's what the 6.6L gas motors come from the factory with - same engine architecture)" — Reasonable_Cup_2944 (source)
"Fluids and filters are cheap insurance against mechanical failures. Here's my prescribed protocol as a lifelong mechanic and GM vehicle owner (many vehicles.....)" — Reasonable_Cup_2944 (source)
Lessons Learned
⚠️ "I have replaced both VVT sensors, both O2, Spark Plugs, coil packs, both camshaft positioning sensors and valve cover gaskets. I reflashed a couple of times in the process and still have a crazy backfire." — Active_Bookkeeper_16 (source)
⚠️ "I reflashed a couple of times in the process and still have a crazy backfire. What else can I do alone, I’m stuck between changing the TPS, MAF or the MAP sensor but all are pricey." — Active_Bookkeeper_16 (source)
Pro Tips from Owners
💡 "She bought a 2017 Sonata privately here in Canada April of 2025 with 198,000 km, or 126,000 miles. Against my advice she didn’t do the research or a pre purchase inspection." — Useful_Respect3339 (source)
💡 "Against my advice she didn’t do the research or a pre purchase inspection. Shortly after the purchase I noticed the low oil pressure light would come on intermittently, so I changed the oil and filled it." — Useful_Respect3339 (source)
Real Repair Costs
"The cause of your oil consumption is stuck oil control rings. For about $125, you can solve this problem (price includes new OEM spark plugs, two oil changes worth of oil including high-quality Valvoline Restore and Protect, and a new PCV valve)." — aquapura89 (source)
"Love the car, love Hondas (last one was a 93 civic DX). I've sunk about $9K (including routine stuff like brakes, battery, and tires) into it since then in repairs, now I'm looking at spending another $1.8K to replace the rear brakes, calipers, brake lines, and rear control arms." — Powerful-Home-2554 (source)
"I really hoped to get 300k out of this car, but I really don't want to keep putting money into that I could be putting into a new car. I've always been under the impression that after stock parts wear out, I can replace them and the car would be good to go from there, but almost $10k later here I am." — Powerful-Home-2554 (source)
FAQ
Q: How long does it take to fix a spark plug misfire? A: If you're only replacing spark plugs and the PCV valve, a competent DIYer can complete the job in 1-2 hours. If diagnosis and MAF sensor cleaning/replacement are involved, budget 2-3 hours. A professional shop will typically quote 1.5 to 2.5 hours of labor.
Q: Can I drive my Spark with a misfire and shaking? A: It is not recommended. Driving with a severe misfire can damage the catalytic converter, which is very expensive to replace. Unburned fuel washing down the cylinder walls can also dilute your engine oil, leading to increased wear. It's best to address the issue promptly.
Q: Is this a common issue on the 2017 Spark? A: While spark plugs are a universal wear item, the pattern of recurring issues linked to the MAF sensor or PCV valve is a common theme across many modern vehicles, including the Spark. The data shows owners frequently face this diagnostic challenge.
Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? A: This repair is very accessible for a DIYer with basic tools and patience. The steps are straightforward, and the potential savings are significant, especially since shops may misdiagnose the root cause. However, if you are uncomfortable with engine work or lack tools, a reputable independent mechanic is the next best option. Be sure to share your suspicion about the MAF or PCV valve to guide their diagnosis.
Q: I replaced my spark plugs and the problem came back. What now? A: This is the classic sign of an underlying issue. Immediately suspect the MAF sensor or PCV valve. Clean the MAF sensor first, as it's zero-cost if you have the cleaner. Then, replace the PCV valve. These two actions resolve the majority of recurring misfire problems after a plug change.
Q: Will cleaning the MAF sensor always fix it? A: No, but it's always the best first step. If the sensor's internal circuitry has failed, cleaning won't help and it will need replacement. However, cleaning is free or very low-cost and corrects most problems caused by contamination.
Related OBD Codes
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Sources
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