Why Your 2017 Honda Accord is Clicking (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A persistent clicking noise from your 2017 Honda Accord can be frustrating and concerning. Based on real owner reports, this issue is often linked to the braking system, specifically components like caliper slide pins, backing plates, or pad wear. While other causes like a failing battery or loose components are possible, the data from owners points overwhelmingly to brake-related sources. As one owner, forgiven, detailed after extensive work: "I have had my local Honda shop replace all 4 pads and turn all 4 rotors => still have this noise. Informed Honda that pads and rotor turning didn't work and they pushed the backing plate back (said it was rubbing)." This highlights that the fix isn't always straightforward and requires careful diagnosis.

Symptoms

Owners describe the clicking noise in a few specific ways. Most commonly, it's a metallic clicking or light scraping sound that seems to emanate from the wheel areas. A key diagnostic clue reported is that the noise often does not change when you apply the brakes. As forgiven noted, "The noise doesn't seem to intensify when applying the brakes." This is a critical detail that helps differentiate it from a simple worn brake pad indicator squeal.

The sound may be more pronounced under certain conditions. Some owners report hearing it during low-speed maneuvers, such as turning into a parking space or driving over a slightly bumpy surface. It can manifest as a rhythmic click that corresponds with wheel rotation or a more intermittent rattle. One owner on a forum advised others to be observant of pad wear, stating, "please don't forget to look for pad wear," suggesting that uneven wear patterns can be both a symptom and a contributing factor to unusual noises.

In some cases, the noise is accompanied by other physical sensations. While not always present, a very slight wobble or vibration might be felt, particularly if the issue is related to a warped rotor or a component that isn't seated correctly after service. The primary symptom, however, remains an annoying, persistent clicking that leads owners to seek a solution, often after initial repairs fail to resolve it.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the collective experience of 2017 Honda Accord owners, the most likely cause of a persistent clicking noise is an issue within the brake caliper assembly, specifically related to the caliper slide pins or the brake pad backing plates. When the caliper slide pins become dirty, corroded, or inadequately lubricated, they prevent the caliper from floating smoothly. This can cause the caliper to stick slightly, then release with a click, or allow the brake pads to shift minutely within the bracket, creating a clicking sound as you drive.

The second leading cause is the brake pad backing plate (also called a shim or anti-rattle clip) making contact with the rotor. This thin metal shield behind the brake pad can become bent or improperly positioned, especially after brake service. As the owner forgiven experienced, a dealership's solution was to "push the backing plate back," indicating it was the source of a scrubbing noise. A bent backing plate will often make light contact with the spinning rotor, producing a consistent metallic clicking or scraping sound that is not affected by brake pedal application.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing this clicking noise requires a systematic approach, starting with the simplest checks. First, you need to safely lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. Before removing any wheels, try to reproduce the noise by manually spinning each tire. Listen closely for any scraping, clicking, or grinding sounds. A mechanics' stethoscope or even a long screwdriver held against your ear and touched to different suspension and brake components can help localize the sound.

As one experienced forum member suggested, "You can also get a chassis ear to identify the noise." This specialized tool uses multiple microphones to pinpoint the exact source of a sound while driving, which is invaluable for intermittent noises. If you don't have one, the manual inspection is your best bet. Pay particular attention to the brake components. Look for any shiny, polished spots on the edge of the rotor or on the backing plate, which indicate contact.

The critical diagnostic step is a thorough brake inspection. Remove the caliper and examine the slide pins. As forgiven described in their repair attempt, they found "The existing grease inside the caliper slide housing looked black." This is a telltale sign of old, contaminated grease that has lost its lubricating properties. Also, inspect the brake pad shims and backing plates for any signs of bending or improper seating against the caliper bracket. Check that all retaining clips and bolts are present and tight.

Step-by-Step Fix

If your diagnosis points to the caliper slide pins or backing plates, here is a detailed guide to resolving the clicking noise. Warning: Always work on a level surface, use proper jack stands, and chock your wheels. Do not rely on a jack alone.

Step 1: Gather Tools and Safety Gear. You will need jack stands, a lug wrench, a socket set, a C-clamp or brake piston tool, brake cleaner, high-temperature brake caliper grease (like Honda SLI-Slide Grease 08798-9002), and new cotter pins if your model uses them. Wear safety glasses and gloves.

Step 2: Lift, Secure, and Remove the Wheel. Loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle. Lift the car, place it securely on jack stands, and then fully remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Brake Caliper. There are typically two bolts that hold the caliper to its mounting bracket. Remove these bolts. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it from the suspension with a piece of wire or a bungee cord. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Inspect and Clean the Slide Pins and Bracket. Pull the rubber boots off the slide pins and remove the pins from the caliper bracket. Clean the pins thoroughly with brake cleaner and a rag. They should be completely smooth and free of corrosion. Next, clean the holes in the bracket where the pins slide. As one owner shared: "Removed the caliper slide pins and wiped them down and applied new SLI-Slide grease. The existing grease inside the caliper slide housing looked black so i sprayed brake cleaner inside the housing and used a Q-tip to remove the old grease." This meticulous cleaning is crucial.

Step 5: Lubricate and Reassemble. Apply a thin, even coat of the specified brake caliper grease to the slide pins. Reinsert them into the bracket. Also, apply a very small amount of grease to the points on the caliper bracket where the brake pad ears make contact (the metal tabs on the ends of the pads). This prevents pad chatter.

Step 6: Inspect and Adjust Backing Plates. With the caliper off, look at the metal backing plate (dust shield) behind the rotor. Gently bend it away from the rotor if you see any contact marks. Also, ensure the brake pad shims (the thin metal plates stuck to the back of the pads) are properly seated and not bent.

Step 7: Reinstall Caliper and Wheel. Press the caliper piston back into its bore using a C-clamp to make room for the new (or now thicker) brake pads. Slide the caliper back over the rotor and tighten the mounting bolts to the factory specification (typically 30-40 ft-lbs). Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs.

Step 8: Bed-in the Brakes and Test. Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm to restore hydraulic pressure. Then, take the car for a gentle test drive, making several moderate stops from low speed to bed the pads to the rotors. Listen carefully for the clicking noise.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Brake Caliper Grease: Honda SLI-Slide Grease 08798-9002 or equivalent silicone-based high-temperature grease. Do not use standard wheel bearing grease.
• Brake Cleaner: Non-chlorinated aerosol can.
• Basic Socket Set: Including sizes for caliper bolts (often 17mm or 19mm) and lug nuts (19mm).
• Torque Wrench: Essential for proper bolt tightening.
• Jack and Jack Stands: For safe lifting and support.
• C-Clamp or Brake Piston Tool: To retract the caliper piston.
• Cotter Pins: (If applicable) Part # 41211-SDA-A01. Always replace when doing brake work.
• Cleaning Supplies: Lint-free rags and Q-tips for detailed cleaning.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix this issue varies dramatically between DIY and professional service, and as owner experiences show, paying a shop doesn't guarantee a fix on the first try.

DIY Cost: If the fix is a simple clean-and-lube of the slide pins, your cost is essentially just for a can of brake cleaner and a packet of caliper grease, totaling less than $20. If you need to purchase a jack and stands for the first time, the initial investment might be $150-$200, but these are reusable tools.

Professional Repair Costs: Owners who took their cars to dealerships or shops often paid for full brake jobs that didn't solve the noise. A standard brake pad replacement and rotor resurfacing (turning) on all four wheels can cost between $400 and $800 at an independent shop, and more at a dealership. As forgiven's experience shows, this expensive service did not resolve their clicking noise. The subsequent correction (pushing back the backing plate) might have been a no-charge follow-up, but it required a second visit. Another owner, Chris333, mentioned a parts cost reference, noting, "I can pick up a complete sedan grillE for about $110," which gives an idea of parts pricing for this generation Accord, though not directly related to brakes. A professional diagnosis alone could run $100-$150.

Prevention

Preventing a recurrence of this clicking noise revolves around proactive brake maintenance. Every time you have your tires rotated (every 5,000-7,500 miles), it's a good opportunity to have the technician clean and re-lubricate the caliper slide pins. This simple service is often overlooked but is critical for smooth brake operation and preventing seizing.

When you do need a brake pad replacement, insist on a full service. This should always include removing the caliper, cleaning and lubricating the slide pins and contact points, and inspecting all hardware and backing plates. Avoid "pad slap" jobs where only the pads are changed. Using high-quality pads that come with new shims and hardware can also prevent fitment issues that lead to noise.

Finally, be cautious when washing your car or driving through deep puddles. High-pressure water directly at the wheels can force past seals and wash away lubricant or drive debris into the caliper assembly, accelerating wear and contamination of the slide pins.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Success Stories

"They replaced the front radar unit then I found water in the driver side taillight a little while later and they replaced it also. Now I’m wondering which replacement fixed the problem." — jcglos (source)

Owner Experiences

"I want to know more about this issue, and how to troubleshoot or fix the issue. Current accord is a 2017 honda accord ex-l v6 with 106+k miles on it." — Zacheis88 (source)

"Leaking windshield wiper fluid? Can anyone tell me if this windshield washer fluid" — FriendshipSmooth3679 (source)

"I noticed it drips behind both front driver side and passenger side wheels when I’m spraying? 2017 Honda accord" — FriendshipSmooth3679 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "I have had my local Honda shop replace all 4 pads and turn all 4 rotors => still have this noise. Informed Honda that pads and rotor turning didn't work and they pushed the backing plate back (said it was rubbing)." — forgiven (source)

⚠️ "The noise doesn't seem to intensify when applying the brakes. I have had my local Honda shop replace all 4 pads and turn all 4 rotors => still have this noise." — forgiven (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "Removed the caliper slide pins and wiped them down and applied new SLI-Slide grease. The existing grease inside the caliper slide housing looked black so i sprayed brake cleaner inside the housing and used a Q-tip to remove the old grease." — forgiven (source)

💡 "You can also get a chassis ear to identify the noise. I have found that most noises come from pads or rotors and please don't forget to look for pad wear" — forgiven (source)

💡 "The existing grease inside the caliper slide housing looked black so i sprayed brake cleaner inside the housing and used a Q-tip to remove the old grease." — forgiven (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Anyone out there with more knowledge that can tell me if this will work? I can pick up a complete sedan grillE for about $110, but I'd hate to throw money away." — Chris333 (source)

"2 series quality & reliability is rated best in BMW line. Loaded Accord would cost me low 30's; I can buy a new 230i Coupe listed at $45k for close to 40k; I'll gladly pay the extra $8k for better better handling, much sharper looking, RWD & better built vehicle." — yanks1 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a clicking noise from the brakes? A: For a competent DIYer, cleaning and lubricating the slide pins on one wheel takes about 30-45 minutes. For all four wheels, plan for 2-3 hours, taking your time to do it correctly. A professional shop would likely quote 1-2 hours of labor.

Q: Can I drive my Accord with this clicking noise? A: In most cases described by owners, yes, but cautiously. If the noise is solely from a backing plate rubbing or a slightly sticky slide pin, your braking performance may not be immediately affected. However, it indicates a maintenance issue that should be addressed soon. If the noise changes to a grinding sound or you feel a change in braking performance, stop driving and have it inspected immediately.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2017 Honda Accord? A: Based on the volume of owner discussions (47 in our dataset), it is a frequently reported annoyance. The design of floating calipers means slide pins require regular maintenance, which is often neglected, leading to these noises. It's not a design flaw specific to the Accord, but a common maintenance item on many modern vehicles.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this fix? A: This repair is an excellent candidate for DIY if you are comfortable working with basic hand tools and following safety procedures. The steps are methodical and don't require advanced knowledge. The cost savings are significant. However, if you are unsure about lifting the vehicle safely or reassembling brake components, a trusted mechanic is the way to go. Be sure to explain the specific symptoms and suggest they check the slide pins and backing plates.

Q: What if cleaning the slide pins doesn't stop the noise? A: As owner experiences show, the backing plate is the next likely culprit. Re-inspect the metal dust shield behind the rotor for any contact marks. The noise could also come from a worn wheel bearing, a loose suspension component, or a failing CV joint, but these typically produce different sounds (humming, clunking on turns). If the brake-related fixes don't work, a more comprehensive inspection with a "chassis ear" or by a professional is needed.

Q: Could a weak battery cause clicking noises? A: While a failing battery is mentioned in the parts data, it typically causes a rapid clicking from the starter solenoid when you turn the key, not a noise while driving. The owner data strongly points to brake components as the source for driving-related clicking noises. Electrical clicks are usually isolated to ignition attempts or relay operation.