How Challenger Owners Get the Perfect Exhaust Sound

How to Fix Muffler Issue

For 2020 Dodge Challenger owners, modifying the exhaust system is a popular way to personalize the car's sound and performance. This guide focuses on the common modifications, symptoms of dissatisfaction, and solutions based on real owner experiences. The primary topic among owners isn't a malfunction, but rather a desire to change the factory exhaust tone, volume, and character, often through modifications like a mid-muffler delete or full system upgrades. As one owner shared while planning their project: "Doing small upgrades for now with a budget what are the muffler upgrades and is there an issue to DIY clamps ILO of having someone weld?" (source).

Symptoms

Owners of the 2020 Challenger report specific feelings about their stock exhaust that drive them to consider modifications. The most common symptom is a desire for a different auditory experience from their vehicle. This isn't about a broken part, but a subjective feeling that the factory setup doesn't match the car's aggressive appearance or the owner's personal taste.

A frequent point of discussion is the sound at cold start. Many feel the initial roar is too muted or doesn't have the deep, rumbling character they associate with a performance muscle car. They seek a more dramatic wake-up call that announces the vehicle's presence. Furthermore, owners inside the cabin often report that the sound level and tone feel underwhelming. There's a common sentiment that the interior insulation dampens the experience, making the exhaust note seem quieter from the driver's seat than it does to outside observers.

This leads to a cycle of modification and reassessment. An owner might install a new exhaust component, like a mid-muffler delete, and then question if it's loud enough. "A part of me wishes it was a bit louder but that could just be because I’m in the car and don’t get to hear it from the outside," one owner pondered after their modification (source). This highlights the core "symptom": a perpetual search for the perfect balance of aggressive sound, daily driveability, and sometimes, warranty preservation.

Most Likely Cause

The single most common cause driving 2020 Challenger owners to modify their exhaust is the factory-installed active exhaust system or its standard muffler configuration. This system, particularly on higher-performance models like the Scat Pack, uses valves to control sound and backpressure. While engineered for a balance of performance, noise regulations, and comfort, many enthusiasts find this balance too conservative.

The active exhaust valves open and close based on driving mode (e.g., Sport, Track) and throttle input, but even in its loudest setting, owners often crave a more raw, consistent, and visceral exhaust note. The standard mufflers are designed to meet strict sound ordinances and provide a quiet cabin during highway cruising, which directly conflicts with the desire for an aggressive, always-present muscle car roar. Therefore, the "issue" is not a failure, but a design philosophy that prioritizes broad market appeal and legal compliance over the unadulterated sound sought by a segment of owners. Modifications aim to bypass or remove these sound-dampening components to unlock a more characterful exhaust tone.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing your desire for an exhaust modification is a subjective process, but a structured approach can help you decide what change, if any, is right for you.

Step 1: Define Your Goal. Be specific. Are you seeking a deeper tone, a louder volume on cold start, more cabin noise during acceleration, or a combination? Listen to sound clips of different setups (mid-muffler delete, axle-back, cat-back systems) for both V6 and V8 models to identify the sound profile you prefer.

Step 2: Assess Your Current System. Identify what you have. Look under the rear of your vehicle. Do you have dual tips on each side? This likely indicates an active exhaust system with valves near the tips. Note the location of the mufflers—there is typically a large "mid-muffler" (or resonator) in the center of the car and mufflers at the rear. Your modification path will target one or both of these.

Step 3: Research Legal and Warranty Implications. Check your local and state laws regarding exhaust noise and modifications, especially the removal of catalytic converters ("high flow cats" are often not street-legal everywhere). Contact your dealership to understand how an exhaust modification might affect your powertrain warranty. As one cautious owner asked, "Just curious what types of exhaust / muffler modifications you all would recommend. I would like to keep my warranty" (source).

Step 4: Listen and Record. Have a friend drive your car while you stand outside. Record a cold start and some drive-bys with your phone. Often, the car sounds significantly different from outside the cabin. This can help you determine if you truly need a modification or if you just need to hear it from a different perspective.

Step-by-Step Fix

The most popular and cost-effective fix for a 2020 Challenger, as reported by owners, is the Mid-Muffler Delete. This involves removing the large resonator/muffler located in the center of the exhaust system and replacing it with a straight pipe.

Tools & Prep Needed: Jack and jack stands or vehicle ramps, safety glasses, gloves, penetrating oil (like PB Blaster), socket set and wrenches, exhaust hanger removal tool (helpful), angle grinder or reciprocating saw with metal blade (if cutting is required), and a new section of pipe with clamps or a weld-in kit.

Step 1: Safely Elevate the Vehicle. Securely lift the rear of the car high enough to comfortably work underneath. Use jack stands—never rely solely on a hydraulic jack.

Step 2: Locate the Mid-Muffler. It is a large, cylindrical component in the center tunnel of the car, between the catalytic converters and the rear mufflers.

Step 3: Apply Penetrating Oil. Spray the bolts at the flanges on both ends of the mid-muffler and the rubber hangers that support it. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes to ease removal.

Step 4: Remove the Component. Unbolt the flanges at both ends. If the bolts are rusted and won't budge, you may need to cut the pipe on either side of the muffler. Use an angle grinder or sawzall for a clean cut. Also, unhook the rubber hangers supporting the muffler.

Step 5: Install the Replacement Pipe. If you purchased a bolt-on delete kit (often called a "resonator delete pipe"), it will slip into place using the existing flanges. If you are having it welded or using clamps, fit the new pipe into position. As one owner considering DIY noted: "what are the muffler upgrades and is there an issue to DIY clamps ILO of having someone weld?" (source). Clamps are a viable DIY solution, but welding provides a more permanent, leak-free seal.

Step 6: Secure the New Pipe. Tighten all flange bolts or exhaust clamps securely. Re-attach any rubber hangers to the new pipe if applicable.

Step 7: Lower the Vehicle and Test. Start the car and listen for the new sound. Check thoroughly for any exhaust leaks at the connections. A successful modification will yield a noticeably louder, deeper, and more aggressive tone, especially on acceleration and cold starts. "Got my mid muffler delete on my scatpack a few weeks ago... love the sound," shared one satisfied owner (source).

Parts and Tools Needed

• Mid-Muffler Delete Kit: This is the most common part. Brands like Solo Performance, Speedlogix, and others offer bolt-on kits specifically for the 2020 Challenger. A typical kit includes a mandrel-bent pipe and necessary gaskets/bolts. Expect to pay $150-$300.
• Clamp-On Exhaust Pipe: If not using a kit, a universal 2.5" or 3" diameter steel pipe (length depends on your measurement) and heavy-duty exhaust clamps (like Band Clamps) will suffice.
• Full Cat-Back or Axle-Back System: For a more complete upgrade with guaranteed fit and finish, systems from Borla, Corsa, or Mopar (Stage 1) can cost $1,000-$2,500.
• Basic Mechanic's Tool Set: Sockets, wrenches, ratchets.
• Vehicle Support: Quality jack stands and/or automotive ramps.
• Cutting Tool: Angle grinder or reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades.
• Penetrating Oil: PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc.
• Safety Gear: Gloves and safety glasses.

Real Owner Costs

The cost varies dramatically based on the route you choose, from a DIY budget fix to a professional high-end installation.

DIY Mid-Muffler Delete (Most Common): This is the budget king. A bolt-on delete kit costs between $150 and $300. If you use universal pipe and clamps from an auto parts store, the parts cost can be under $100. If you own the tools, your total cost is just the parts. "Doing small upgrades for now with a budget," as one owner put it, perfectly describes this approach (source).

Professional Mid-Muffler Delete: If you take your car to a muffler shop, labor will be added. A shop can typically perform a cut-and-weld delete in 1-2 hours. Total cost, including a simple pipe and labor, often ranges from $200 to $500, depending on local shop rates and whether you supply the kit.

Professional Cat-Back Exhaust Installation: For a full, brand-name system installed by a professional, costs soar. The parts alone for a quality cat-back system are $1,200-$2,500. With 2-4 hours of labor at $100-$150/hour, total installed costs can easily reach $1,500 to $3,000+. This is for owners who want a guaranteed, high-quality result with no DIY hassle.

Prevention

Since the "muffler issue" is one of personal preference rather than part failure, "prevention" means making an informed choice before modifying to avoid dissatisfaction or costly re-dos.

First, exhaust sound is highly subjective. Prevent disappointment by listening extensively to sound clips from inside and outside the cabin for the specific modification you are considering. Remember the owner who wondered if theirs was loud enough from inside the car. Second, understand the limitations of clamps vs. welding. Clamps can slip or leak over time, potentially leading to a raspy or inconsistent sound. A professional weld is more durable. Third, consider the entire system path. Some owners plan extensive mods. "my next big upgrade is my exhaust (high flow cats, big boz 4 mufflers and dual tips on each side) and a 80mm ported throttle body," one owner detailed (source). Changing multiple components (headers, cats, mufflers) will compound the sound change and may require an engine tune, adding significant cost and complexity.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Owner Experiences

"This is what a 5.9 sounds like I guess I'm just posting this because I'm bored lol idk..." — wassupobscurenetwork (source)

"I guess I'm just posting this because I'm bored lol idk... Basically I just added a 6.4 crankshaft, forged 6.4 rods & then 5.7 pistons" — wassupobscurenetwork (source)

"tune before v8 throttle body on v6? does it matter my next big upgrade is my exhaust (high flow cats, big boz 4 mufflers and dual tips on each side) and a 80mm ported throttle body off a 5.7 hemi. should i wait until post-diablo tune to do the throttle body? this is the first car i’m modding, so i’m really new to anything not related to suspension. would it be smart to prioritizing the tune first?" — offic-pillow2 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "A phone video doesn’t help decide on muffler sound in my opinion . I see you still have the resonators on it aswell ." — eclint85 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to do a mid-muffler delete? A: For a seasoned DIYer with the right tools, a bolt-on or clamp-on mid-muffler delete can be completed in 1-2 hours, including time to safely lift and support the vehicle. A muffler shop can typically do a welded delete in about an hour.

Q: Can I drive my car right after a muffler delete? A: Yes, you can drive it immediately. The modification does not affect drivability, fuel economy, or engine safety in a significant way. However, you should always check for exhaust leaks before driving any distance. A major leak near the engine bay could allow fumes into the cabin.

Q: Is a loud exhaust a common issue owners try to fix on the 2020 Challenger? A: It's not an "issue" in the sense of a defect, but it is arguably the most common modification owners pursue. The desire to alter and personalize the exhaust sound is a huge part of the Challenger community culture, as evidenced by the numerous forum posts and videos dedicated to before-and-after sound clips.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for a first-timer? A: A mid-muffler delete is one of the more accessible DIY exhaust projects. If you are comfortable working under your car and have the basic tools, it's a feasible weekend project. The use of clamps instead of welding makes it even more DIY-friendly. However, if you are unsure about cutting, fitting pipes, or safely supporting the vehicle, paying a muffler shop $100-$200 in labor is a wise investment to ensure a safe, leak-free, and professional-looking result.

Q: Will a muffler delete or exhaust upgrade hurt my gas mileage? A: Generally, no. A simple muffler or resonator delete has a negligible impact on backpressure and engine efficiency. You are unlikely to see any measurable change in MPG. More extensive modifications, like adding long-tube headers and high-flow cats, can potentially improve efficiency if paired with a proper tune, but that's a much more involved project.

Q: Does modifying the exhaust require an engine tune? A: For a simple mid-muffler delete or most cat-back exhaust systems, no tune is required. The engine's computer can adapt to the minor change in backpressure. However, if you are doing major modifications like changing the catalytic converters (to "high flow cats") or the exhaust manifolds/headers, a tune is highly recommended to optimize air/fuel ratios and prevent check engine lights. As one owner planning a build asked about the order of operations: "should i wait until post-diablo tune to do the throttle body?" (source).