Why Your 2020 Dodge Charger Battery Keeps Dying (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Battery Issue

A dead battery can leave your 2020 Dodge Charger stranded, but the root cause often goes deeper than a simple part failure. Based on real owner experiences, battery problems in this model are frequently linked to driving habits and electrical system health, not just a faulty battery itself. As one owner, Zayadur, wisely noted about short-trip driving: "If you don’t go on frequent 20+ minute drives to allow oil to circulate, burn off residue, etc. things like sludge form and fuel system can gum up, battery drains over time." This guide will walk you through diagnosing and solving the underlying issues that lead to battery failure, using data-driven solutions from actual Charger owners.

Symptoms

The most common symptom is the vehicle failing to start. Owners report turning the key or pushing the start button only to be met with silence, a single click, or rapid clicking sounds from the starter solenoid without the engine cranking. As SleepyWulfy described: "Went to go start the car and it didn't crank over, I just heard a click and maybe 3 seconds later I heard another click." This classic symptom points directly to insufficient voltage reaching the starter motor.

Electrical gremlins are another major red flag. You might experience flickering interior lights, a dimming dashboard, or infotainment system resets while driving. In some cases, a battery issue can trigger warning lights like the red Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) light, as one owner reported, though it may go away without storing a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). A completely dead battery can also cause modules to reset, which sometimes accidentally fixes other glitches. One owner, Cyphman, shared: "I got mine to reset by accident the other day when my battery died…once I jump started my Bluetooth started working again."

Slow cranking is a subtle but critical early warning sign. When you start the car, the engine turns over more slowly than usual, sounding labored and weak. This indicates the battery is struggling to provide the necessary amperage, often due to a low state of charge or a battery beginning to fail. Intermittent no-start problems are particularly frustrating. The vehicle might start fine one day and fail the next, or start after sitting for a while unexpectedly. Dirkadirka666 experienced this puzzling scenario: "On a whim, I decided to try to start my car again, and that time it worked! Very odd, and I thought it might be a fluke." This inconsistency can point to a parasitic drain, a failing cell within the battery, or a poor connection.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of recurring battery issues in the 2020 Dodge Charger, as identified by owners, is chronic undercharging due to insufficient driving cycles. Modern vehicles, especially those with numerous always-on electronic control modules, require the alternator to run long enough to replenish the charge used during startup. Short, frequent trips—common in daily commuting—prevent the charging system from completing a full cycle. The starter motor draws a massive amount of current (often 150-200 amps) to crank the engine. If your drive is only 5-10 minutes, the alternator does not have adequate time to restore this energy to the battery. Over days and weeks, this leads to a progressively deeper state of discharge, sulfation of the battery plates, and eventual failure to start.

This is compounded by the vehicle's complex electrical system. Even when parked, modules for security, keyless entry, and telematics draw a small amount of power (parasitic drain). A healthy, fully charged battery can handle this for weeks. A battery that is never fully recharged due to short trips will be drained below its critical voltage much faster. Furthermore, as one owner pointed out, such driving habits can also contribute to fuel system issues, as the engine rarely reaches optimal operating temperature to burn off fuel condensation and deposits. While not a direct cause of the battery drain, it highlights the broader mechanical impact of the same driving pattern that strains the electrical system.

How to Diagnose

Accurate diagnosis is key to solving the problem permanently. You will need a basic multimeter capable of measuring DC voltage and, ideally, DC current (amps). A battery load tester is also highly recommended for a definitive battery health check.

First, perform a static voltage test. With the vehicle off and all doors closed for at least an hour, use your multimeter to measure the voltage across the battery terminals. A healthy, fully charged AGM battery should read between 12.6 and 12.8 volts. Anything below 12.4 volts indicates a state of discharge, and a reading below 12.0 volts suggests a deeply discharged or failing battery. Next, check the voltage during cranking. Have a helper attempt to start the car while you monitor the battery voltage. If the voltage drops below 10.0 volts during the crank attempt, the battery likely cannot hold sufficient charge under load and needs replacement.

The third critical test is for parasitic drain. This checks if something is drawing too much power while the car is asleep. Set your multimeter to measure DC current (10A or higher setting). Disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect the multimeter in series between the terminal and the disconnected cable. Wait for the vehicle to enter sleep mode (this can take 20-45 minutes as modules power down). A normal parasitic drain for a modern car like the Charger is between 20-50 milliamps (0.02-0.05A). If your reading is significantly higher—say, 0.2A (200mA) or more—you have an abnormal drain that will kill the battery. Finally, test the charging system. Start the engine and measure the voltage at the battery terminals again. With all accessories off, you should see between 13.8 and 14.8 volts. A reading outside this range indicates a potential problem with the alternator or voltage regulator.

Step-by-Step Fix

Based on owner experiences, here is a comprehensive plan to resolve battery issues.

Step 1: Safety First. Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and wear safety glasses. Gather your tools: multimeter, wrench set, battery terminal cleaner, and dielectric grease.

Step 2: Clean and Inspect Connections. Corrosion is a silent killer. Disconnect the negative (black) terminal first, then the positive (red). Clean both battery posts and cable terminals with a dedicated battery terminal brush until they are shiny metal. Inspect the cables for fraying or damage. As one owner shared, ensuring clean, tight connections is often the simplest fix for electrical gremlins. Reconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative, and coat the connections with a thin layer of dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

Step 3: Test and Replace the Battery (If Needed). Perform the voltage and load tests as described in the diagnosis section. If your battery is original from 2020, it is likely at the end of its service life, even if it tests marginally okay. The 2020 Charger uses an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery. It is crucial to replace it with another high-quality AGM battery. AGM batteries have different charging profiles and greater durability than standard flooded batteries. As owner REVN302 cautioned, even new batteries can be faulty: "I know you just replaced it but it could be a bad cell in the new battery. I’ve seen it happen before." Always have a new battery load-tested before installation if possible.

Step 4: Address Driving Habits. This is the most important long-term fix. If your regular use consists of many short trips under 15 minutes, you must intentionally incorporate longer drives. Plan a weekly drive of at least 30 minutes at highway speeds. This allows the alternator to fully recharge the battery and brings the engine to proper operating temperature, benefiting the entire vehicle. As Zayadur advised for overall health: "go on longer drives during downtime to keep her healthy!"

Step 5: Use a Battery Maintainer. For vehicles that sit for extended periods or are primarily used for short trips, investing in a smart battery maintainer (trickle charger) is highly effective. Connect it to the battery terminals (following the manufacturer's instructions) when the vehicle is parked in your garage. This device will keep the battery at a perfect 100% state of charge without overcharging, effectively negating the effects of parasitic drain and short-trip undercharging.

Step 6: Monitor Battery Health. After addressing the issue, keep an eye on it. Pay attention to any return of slow cranking. Consider purchasing a simple plug-in battery voltage monitor for your 12V accessory port to keep a casual eye on system voltage.

Parts and Tools Needed

• AGM Battery: The 2020 Charger requires a Group Size H7 (LN4) AGM battery. Common part numbers include:
  • Mopar (OEM): 68417970AB
  • Aftermarket: Optima Batteries YellowTop H7, DieHard Platinum AGM H7, Interstate MTX-H7
• Multimeter: A digital multimeter with DC Voltage and 10A DC Current settings.
• Battery Terminal Cleaner Tool: A dual-wire brush set for cleaning posts and terminals.
• Wrench Set: Typically 10mm for battery terminal bolts.
• Dielectric Grease: To protect connections from corrosion.
• Smart Battery Maintainer/Trickle Charger: Such as a NOCO Genius, Battery Tender, or CTEK model.
• Battery Load Tester: A dedicated unit like a Schumacher or OTC tester provides the most accurate health check (can often be borrowed from auto parts stores).

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a battery issue varies greatly depending on the chosen path.

DIY Battery Replacement: This is the most straightforward DIY job. The cost is primarily the battery itself. A quality AGM battery for the Charger typically ranges from $220 to $350. With no labor costs, this is your total investment. As owner Blakjakz marveled at his factory battery's lifespan: "Had to change my battery yesterday Insane to me that the factory battery lasted nearly 11 years"—though for a 2020 model, 4-5 years is more typical.

Professional Battery Replacement: Taking your car to a dealership or independent shop adds significant labor costs. Parts markup is common, so the battery may cost $300-$400. Labor for testing and replacement usually adds $100 to $150. Therefore, a typical professional replacement ranges from $400 to $550 out the door.

Addressing Parasitic Drain: If a professional diagnosis is needed to find an abnormal drain, costs increase. Diagnostic time can be 1-2 hours of labor ($150-$300). The fix could be a simple module reset, a software update, or replacing a faulty component like an amplifier or control module, which could add hundreds more in parts.

Preventative Investment: A high-quality smart battery maintainer is an excellent investment at $50 to $120. For an owner who primarily takes short trips, this device can double or triple the life of their battery, saving significant money in the long run.

Prevention

Preventing battery failure is about proactive maintenance and habit adjustment. First and foremost, alter your driving routine. Consciously combine errands or take the long way home to ensure the battery gets a full charge at least once a week. Second, invest in a battery maintainer. If you know your vehicle will sit for more than two weeks, or if you consistently drive less than 20 minutes per trip, plugging it in is the single best thing you can do for your battery's longevity.

Third, keep the connections clean. Inspect your battery terminals every time you pop the hood for an oil change. A quick visual check for white or blue corrosion can prevent future problems. Finally, test your battery annually as it ages past the three-year mark. Most auto parts stores offer free battery and charging system tests. Catching a weakening battery before it fails completely saves you from the inconvenience of a no-start situation.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Success Stories

"This was about the time that it was the first and last time in the proceeding and following week that it would be above freezing. On a whim, I decided to try to start my car again, and that time it worked!" — dirkadirka666 (source)

"On a whim, I decided to try to start my car again, and that time it worked! Very odd, and I thought it might be a fluke." — dirkadirka666 (source)

Owner Experiences

"Had to change my battery yesterday Insane to me that the factory battery lasted nearly 11 years" — Blakjakz (source)

"Change oil frequently, like every 3,000 miles. Use a good quality fuel system cleaner every 3,000 miles (probably unnecessary if you always go to a name brand gas station), warm up your car for a couple of minutes before driving, keep an eye on the battery’s health, and go on longer drives during downtime to keep her healthy!" — Zayadur (3,000 miles) (source)

"It’s not the worst idea but it’s also not ideal for your car. If you don’t go on frequent 20+ minute drives to allow oil to circulate, burn off residue, etc. things like sludge form and fuel system can gum up, battery drains over time." — Zayadur (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "My Bluetooth is intermittent, it's usually a warning that my battery is low, seems to work when the battery is fully charged." — cyberintel13 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a battery myself? A: For a competent DIYer, the physical replacement takes about 15-30 minutes. This includes disconnecting the terminals, removing the hold-down clamp, swapping the battery, and reconnecting everything. However, you should budget additional time for properly cleaning the terminals and cable ends, which is crucial for a good connection. Allow an hour total for a thorough job.

Q: Can I drive with a weak battery? A: It is not recommended. A weak battery puts excessive strain on the alternator, which can lead to premature alternator failure—a much more expensive repair. Furthermore, a battery that fails completely while driving can cause a sudden loss of electrical power, potentially affecting power steering, braking assist, and engine management, creating a dangerous situation.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Charger? A: Based on owner discussions, battery issues are a frequent topic, but they are rarely due to a inherent vehicle defect. The problem is common to most modern vehicles with high electrical loads. The Charger's large engine requires a powerful starter, which demands a lot from the battery. Coupled with the prevalence of short-trip driving, this makes the vehicle susceptible to battery problems if not maintained proactively.

Q: DIY vs mechanic – what’s recommended for a battery issue? A: For a simple battery replacement, DIY is highly recommended. It is one of the easiest and most cost-effective repairs you can perform. The steps are straightforward, and the risk is minimal if you follow basic safety (disconnect negative first). However, if your diagnosis points to a complex parasitic drain or a charging system fault (alternator), and you are not comfortable with electrical diagnostics, seeking a professional mechanic is the wise choice. They have the tools and expertise to trace electrical faults efficiently.

Q: My car started after sitting for a while. Is it fixed? A: Not necessarily. As in the case shared by dirkadirka666, an intermittent start after failure is a classic sign of a battery with a failing cell or a problem with a connection that temporarily rectified itself (like a corroded terminal making partial contact). You should still perform a full battery and charging system test. Ignoring this can lead to being stranded the next time you need the car.

Q: Will using a fuel system cleaner help my battery? A: Not directly. While one owner recommended using a fuel system cleaner as part of overall maintenance for short-trip driving, its purpose is to clean fuel injectors and intake valves. It does not affect the electrical system. The connection is that the same driving habit (short trips) that harms the battery can also lead to fuel system gumming. Addressing the driving habit helps both systems.