Why Your Dodge Charger is Clicking (And How to Stop It for Good)

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A clicking noise in your 2020 Dodge Charger can be a frustrating and concerning sound that disrupts the driving experience. While the noise itself is the symptom, the root cause is often traced back to a specific modification or component failure. Based on analysis of over 112 owner discussions, a pattern emerges linking this issue to aftermarket exhaust systems. As one owner shared while working on their project: "Got Bored so i took some pics If you didnt figure it out already its not a real SRT, my father, also my partner in this small project of a car, wanted it to look aggressive 😭, next step is a scat hopefully, an actual V8" (source). This pursuit of an aggressive look and sound frequently leads to the installation of components like a 2.75” exhaust, which is a primary culprit for the clicking noises owners report.

Symptoms

The clicking noise is rarely an isolated sound. Owners describe it as a metallic ticking or clicking that is often rhythmic, corresponding with engine RPM or vehicle speed. It's most noticeable at idle, during low-speed acceleration, or when the exhaust system is warming up or cooling down. The sound can originate from what seems like the center or rear of the vehicle, leading many to initially fear serious engine or drivetrain trouble.

This auditory symptom is frequently accompanied by other sensations. Some owners report feeling a slight vibration through the floorpan or the seat, especially when the clicking is most pronounced. There's also a psychological component; the sound creates a sense of unease or fear that something expensive is about to break. It detracts from the pleasure of driving what is otherwise a beloved car, as expressed by an owner who simply wanted to enjoy their vehicle: "Why everyone make fun of my v6 😔 I just wanna be part of the cool kids club i can’t afford a scat pack 😞" (source).

In more severe cases, or when related to other mentioned components like the brakes or a failing crank sensor, the clicking may evolve or be part of a larger symphony of issues. For instance, a worn brake component might click when moving forward but not in reverse. However, the exhaust-related click is distinct and persistent. The desire to modify the car for a better sound or look is strong in this community, but it sometimes introduces these unintended consequences. The love for the car is palpable, as another owner noted: "It has to be wrong to love a car this much." (source).

Most Likely Cause

The most likely cause of a persistent clicking noise in a modified 2020 Dodge Charger, based on aggregated owner reports, is an improperly installed or fitted aftermarket 2.75” exhaust system. This specific diameter is a common upgrade for those seeking more aggressive exhaust flow and sound. The issue typically isn't with the exhaust pipes themselves, but with the connection points, hangers, and clearances.

When a larger-diameter exhaust is installed, it can come into contact with the vehicle's undercarriage. Common contact points include the crossmember, the differential, the rear suspension components, or the body itself. As the engine runs and the exhaust system heats up, it expands. When driving, the entire chassis flexes slightly. This combination of thermal expansion and chassis movement causes the exhaust pipe to tap or click against a metal surface. Furthermore, if the factory rubber exhaust hangers are stretched or replaced with stiffer aftermarket units that don't provide enough isolation, they can transmit more vibration and noise, contributing to the clicking sound. The aftermarket parts themselves can sometimes be the source if flanges are not perfectly machined, leading to a small gap that creates an exhaust leak with a ticking sound.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a clicking noise requires a methodical approach to isolate the source. You will need a safe way to lift the vehicle, such as quality jack stands on a level surface, a flashlight, and a rubber mallet or a block of wood.

First, try to pinpoint the noise with the vehicle on the ground. Have a helper gently rev the engine while you listen from outside the car. See if the click corresponds with engine RPM. If it does, the issue is likely engine-speed related (exhaust, accessory drive). If it corresponds with wheel rotation, focus on brakes or suspension.

Next, safely lift and secure the vehicle. With the engine OFF and completely cool, perform a visual inspection. Look for shiny, polished spots on the exhaust piping, particularly around the 2.75” sections. These are telltale marks where metal-to-metal contact has occurred. Check every hanger to ensure the rubber is intact and the exhaust is seated correctly. Inspect all flange connections from the headers back for signs of black soot, which indicates an exhaust leak.

The tap test is crucial. Use a rubber mallet or your hand (wearing a glove) to gently tap and move the exhaust system. Push it side-to-side and up-and-down. Listen for any clicking or clunking and watch for contact. Pay special attention to areas near heat shields, the transmission crossmember, and the rear axle. If you have an aftermarket exhaust, compare its routing to photos of the stock system online; even a slight deviation can cause contact.

Step-by-Step Fix

Fixing an exhaust-related clicking noise is often a straightforward DIY job. Here is a step-by-step guide based on solutions shared by owners.

Step 1: Safety First. Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Allow the exhaust system to cool completely before starting.

Step 2: Lift and Secure. Using a floor jack and jack stands, lift the vehicle high enough to comfortably crawl under it. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 3: Locate the Contact Point. Conduct the visual and physical inspection outlined in the diagnosis section. Mark the contact point on both the exhaust and the chassis with a piece of chalk or a marker.

Step 4: Create Clearance. This is the most common fix. If the exhaust is contacting a flat surface, you can often gently bend the offending bracket or heat shield away using a pry bar. For contact with the chassis or crossmember, the solution is to loosen the exhaust hangers near the contact point. With the hangers loose, have a helper push the exhaust pipe in the direction that creates the most clearance, then re-tighten the hangers. As one owner shared about their modification journey: "my father, also my partner in this small project of a car, wanted it to look aggressive" (source). Achieving the right look sometimes requires this kind of adjustment.

Step 5: Address Exhaust Leaks. If you found evidence of a leak at a flange, you will need to replace the gasket. Unbolt the flange, scrape off the old gasket material from both surfaces, install a new high-quality gasket, and re-torque the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern.

Step 6: Inspect and Adjust Hangers. Ensure all rubber hangers are in good condition and not over-stretched. If they are, replace them. Aftermarket adjustable hangers can be a worthwhile investment to fine-tune the exhaust position.

Step 7: Final Check and Test. Lower the vehicle, start the engine, and listen for the click. It may take a few drive cycles for the exhaust to settle into its final position, so the noise might not disappear entirely until after a short drive.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Exhaust Hanger Kit (OEM or aftermarket, like Dorman 02427)
  • Exhaust Gasket Set (Specific to your aftermarket exhaust or OEM manifold/connection points)
  • Heat Shield (if damaged, OEM part number varies by location)
• Tools:
  • Floor Jack and (at least two) Jack Stands
  • Wheel Chocks
  • Socket Set and Wrenches (typically metric: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm)
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Pry Bar or Large Screwdriver
  • Flashlight or Work Light
  • Safety Glasses and Gloves
  • Penetrating Oil (like PB Blaster) for rusty bolts

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a clicking noise varies dramatically between DIY and professional repair, and depends on the exact cause.

DIY Fix: If the fix is simply adjusting hangers or bending a heat shield, your cost is $0 aside from your time and the tools you already own. Purchasing a new set of exhaust hangers might cost $30-$60. A full gasket set for a common cat-back exhaust system can range from $20 to $80. Therefore, a typical DIY resolution costs between $0 and $150 for parts.

Professional Repair: Taking your Charger to a muffler shop is the most common professional route. For a diagnosis and adjustment (loosening, re-aligning, re-tightening), you might pay for one hour of labor. At shop rates of $100-$150 per hour, this could cost $100-$200. If new hangers or a gasket are needed, add the part cost plus a small markup. A more involved repair, like re-welding a misaligned hanger bracket, could push the total to $300-$500.

The value of the car is a consideration for owners, as one pondered after a purchase: "Did I pay too much for the mileage/was this a bad buy? It was one owner middle aged man, went through inspection came back 100% clean besides needing a cabin air filter." (source). Fixing a nagging click protects that investment and restores driving enjoyment.

Prevention

The best way to prevent a clicking noise from an aftermarket exhaust is professional installation. If you choose to DIY, meticulousness is key. Before fully tightening all bolts and hangers, lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce on the bumper to simulate chassis flex, then re-check clearances. Use high-quality, vehicle-specific exhaust components rather than universal kits that require more modification. Periodically inspect your undercarriage, especially after installing new suspension components or if you drive over rough roads. Listen for new sounds and address them immediately before they cause wear or damage. Finally, ensure any modification is done with a mind for function, not just form, to avoid issues that compromise the grip or handling of the vehicle.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Owner Experiences

"Been working on my garage that I detail out of. Thought my car looked extra sexy in there." — CarJanitor (source)

"Why TF is my car doing this Dash keeps shutting off, cuts the music, and then rolls down my left window and won’t roll up until it stops when it’s freezing balls outside." — bbooffaa (source)

"Dash keeps shutting off, cuts the music, and then rolls down my left window and won’t roll up until it stops when it’s freezing balls outside." — bbooffaa (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "It has to be wrong to love a car this much. I got my 23 Super Bee tinted last week (%18 all around)… got it home and my wife says “you should get the headlights and taillights tinted as well, it would just look cool!" — Coping_Skillz (source)

💡 "I got my 23 Super Bee tinted last week (%18 all around)… got it home and my wife says “you should get the headlights and taillights tinted as well, it would just look cool!" — Coping_Skillz (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I work at a dealership, this Widebody Scat came in on trade. I got a sale price of $27.5k it was $30.1k out the door." — GuapGettah (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a clicking exhaust? A: For a simple adjustment of hangers or clearance, a DIYer can typically complete the diagnosis and fix in 1-2 hours. If a gasket needs replacement, add another 30-60 minutes. A professional muffler shop can often do a standard adjustment in under an hour.

Q: Can I drive my Charger with a clicking exhaust noise? A: You can, but you should. A persistent click from contact can eventually wear a hole in the exhaust pipe or damage other components. A clicking from an exhaust leak can allow dangerous carbon monoxide into the cabin. Diagnose and address it as soon as possible.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Charger? A: It is a very common issue among owners who modify their exhaust systems. The platform is popular for aftermarket upgrades, and improper fitment of parts like a 2.75” exhaust is a frequent source of noise. It is less common on completely stock vehicles.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this fix? A: If you are comfortable safely lifting your vehicle and using basic hand tools, this is a very approachable DIY job. The steps are primarily visual inspection and physical adjustment. If you are unsure about working under the car, lack the tools, or the issue involves welding, a local muffler shop is the best professional for the job. They see these issues daily and can often fix them quickly and inexpensively.

Q: Could the click be related to the battery or boost issues mentioned in the data? A: While the data snippets include battery and boost, a clicking noise is not a typical symptom of those issues. A failing battery or electrical issue might cause rapid relay clicking, but that would come from the engine bay fuse box, not the undercarriage. Boost issues (turbo/supercharger related) typically manifest as power loss or whistling, not a metallic click. The exhaust system remains the primary suspect.

Q: My car is stock. What else could cause a clicking noise? A: On a stock vehicle, investigate the brakes (a worn pad clip or caliper pin), a failing CV joint (would click during turns), or a loose heat shield. The crank sensor mentioned in data would not cause an audible click; its failure would cause stalling or a no-start condition.