How to Fix a Sticking Brake Caliper on Your Ford Explorer

How to Fix Brake Caliper Issues

For 2020 Ford Explorer owners, brake caliper problems can manifest in unsettling ways, from a loss of braking power to persistent noises and vibrations. Addressing these issues often involves inspection, cleaning, or replacement of the calipers, a task that requires specific knowledge of this vehicle's systems. As one owner, Maine Explorer ST, described the progression of their issue: "Instead of the brakes improving they have continually gotten worse to where the brake pedal now pulses when pressed. So hence my needing to check the brakes and I would like to disassemble and clean them up."

Symptoms

Owners of this SUV report a range of symptoms that point directly to brake caliper and system malfunctions. The most alarming is a sudden, intermittent loss of braking force. One owner, wifeys-ST, shared a critical experience: "the most serious issue we have is that after startup, when we go to reverse out of our spot, the car will just roll with foot on the brake." This complete lack of pedal resistance is a serious safety concern, though it was noted to be temporarily resolved by restarting the vehicle.

More common are symptoms related to caliper function and pad interaction. A pulsating or shuddering brake pedal, especially under moderate to heavy braking, is a classic sign of a sticking caliper or warped rotor caused by uneven caliper pressure. Maine Explorer ST's report of the brake pedal pulsing when pressed is a textbook example of this. Additionally, unusual noises from the wheel area can indicate problems. A ticking sound, even with minimal pad wear, was reported by Cruising68: "Strange thing is I put the brake kit on over two years ago and only now did it start ticking. Rotor still appears centered in the pads and I have very little pad wear." This suggests a caliper guide pin may be sticking or a pad shim may be loose, not necessarily immediate pad failure.

Other symptoms include a general degradation in brake feel or performance, often described as brake fade or a soft pedal. While not always a caliper-specific issue, it often leads owners to inspect the entire brake system, including the calipers. The act of diagnosing these symptoms frequently requires putting the vehicle's electronic parking brake into a specific service mode, a step unique to modern vehicles like this Explorer.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner reports and discussions, the most likely primary cause of brake caliper-related issues on the 2020 Ford Explorer is a sticking or seized brake caliper or caliper guide pins. This failure prevents the caliper piston from applying or releasing pressure evenly on the brake pads. When a caliper sticks in the applied position, it causes constant friction, leading to premature pad wear, excessive heat, warped rotors, and the pulsating pedal described by owners. When a caliper fails to apply properly (often due to a stuck piston or clogged hose), it results in reduced braking power, pulling to one side, or in severe cases, a loss of pedal feel.

The root of this sticking can be corrosion from road salt and moisture, contaminated brake fluid, worn or dry caliper guide pin boots, or a malfunctioning caliper piston seal. The complexity is increased by the vehicle's integrated electronic parking brake system, which requires a specific procedure to retract before mechanical work can be done. Failure to properly use this service mode can lead to damage and misdiagnosis. As WaferTech pointed out in a forum thread, "You should put the brakes in service mode, sometimes its difficult to take it out of service mode unless Forscan is used."

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a faulty caliper requires a methodical, safe approach. Begin by performing a visual inspection. With the vehicle safely elevated and the wheel removed, look for clear signs of trouble: uneven brake pad wear between the inner and outer pad on the same wheel is a major red flag. A pad that is worn down to the backing plate while its counterpart has plenty of material left is a sure sign of a caliper not sliding properly. Check for brake fluid leaks around the caliper piston boot or the brake hose connection. Significant rust or corrosion on the caliper body and, more importantly, on the slider pins is a strong indicator.

The next step is a physical check. Before removing anything, try to compress the caliper piston. If it is extremely difficult or impossible to push back with a C-clamp (and with the brake system properly depressurized), the piston is likely seized in the bore. Then, remove the caliper from its bracket (hanging it safely with wire, never by the hose). The caliper should slide smoothly on its guide pins with hand pressure. Any stiffness or binding means the pins or their boots need service or replacement. As one owner, Maine Explorer ST, exemplified the DIY diagnostic spirit: "I am old school, I have been working on cars since the 70's." This hands-on inspection is crucial.

Finally, a road test can confirm the diagnosis. Drive at a safe, low speed and apply the brakes gently. Does the vehicle pull to one side? After a short drive with minimal braking, feel each wheel (carefully, near the rim). A wheel that is significantly hotter than the others indicates a dragging caliper. The ticking noise reported by some owners may require spinning the wheel by hand while listening for the point of contact.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing or servicing a brake caliper on your 2020 Explorer requires attention to its electronic parking brake system. Always consult the official service manual for the most precise instructions and safety information.

1. Gather Tools & Safety First: Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels you are not working on. Gather your tools: jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set, C-clamp, brake cleaner, silicone-based caliper grease, and a turkey baster for brake fluid.

2. Activate Brake Service Mode: This is critical. Using your vehicle's dashboard menu (typically found in Settings > Vehicle > Brake Maintenance Mode), activate the electronic parking brake service mode. This retracts the piston in the rear calipers. As WaferTech advised, "You should put the brakes in service mode." For some functions, a professional scan tool or Forscan may be needed to fully engage or disengage this mode.

3. Remove the Wheel and Old Caliper: Loosen the lug nuts, safely lift and secure the vehicle, and remove the wheel. Using a turkey baster, remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to account for piston displacement. Remove the brake hose bolt from the caliper (have a rag ready for minor fluid spillage) and cap the hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Unbolt the two main caliper guide pins and lift the caliper off the rotor.

4. Prepare the New Caliper: If installing a new or remanufactured caliper, it may come with new guide pins and boots. Lubricate the new guide pins and the contact points on the brake pad ears with high-temperature silicone caliper grease. Do not use standard grease, as it will fail.

5. Install New Caliper and Brake Pads: Position the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. Mount the new caliper over the rotor and onto the bracket, sliding it onto the guide pins. Hand-thread the new guide pin bolts and torque them to specification (typically 30-35 ft-lbs, but verify). Reconnect the brake hose to the caliper with a new copper crush washer, tightening the bolt to spec.

6. Bleed the Brake System: This is a non-negotiable step whenever the hydraulic system is opened. Have a helper press the brake pedal while you open the bleeder valve on the new caliper, closing it before the pedal is released. Repeat until no air bubbles are seen in the clear bleeder hose. Top up the master cylinder with fresh, DOT 4 brake fluid.

7. Reassembly and Final Steps: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle. Pump the brake pedal firmly several times until it feels hard to seat the pads against the rotor. Deactivate Brake Service Mode using the dashboard menu to reset the electronic parking brake. Test drive cautiously at low speed first to confirm proper brake operation.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts: Replacement brake caliper (remanned or new), matching brake pads, new caliper guide pin bolt kit (includes pins and boots), new copper crush washers for the brake hose banjo bolt, high-temperature silicone caliper grease, and fresh DOT 4 brake fluid.
• Tools: Floor jack and jack stands, lug wrench/socket, socket set (including Torx bits if needed for your trim level), torque wrench, C-clamp or brake piston press, brake bleeder kit (one-man kit is helpful), turkey baster, brake cleaner, wire brush, and safety glasses.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to address brake caliper issues varies widely between DIY and professional service. For the DIYer, the parts are the main expense. A single quality remanufactured caliper can cost between $100 and $250, depending on whether it's front or rear. A full set of mid-grade brake pads adds $80-$150. With fluids and grease, a DIY front brake caliper and pad replacement on one axle can be done for $200 to $400 in parts.

Professional repair costs are significantly higher due to labor rates and shop mark-up on parts. A single caliper replacement at an independent shop can range from $400 to $700 per axle when including pads. Dealership prices will be at the top end of this range or higher. Owners should be aware that performance parts, like the "Superforged Brakes" mentioned in a sales thread by SimonsGTS, are often excluded from discounts and would carry a premium cost. As they noted about a coupon, "One or more product(s) in your cart may already be discounted or unable to be discounted online."

Prevention

Preventing premature caliper failure revolves around maintenance and mindful driving. Regular brake fluid flushes are paramount; manufacturers recommend every 2-3 years, as brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), leading to internal corrosion of the caliper pistons and bore. During every tire rotation or brake inspection, have the technician clean and re-lubricate the caliper guide pins with proper silicone grease. This simple service can double the life of your calipers.

Avoid conditions that promote corrosion when possible. Frequently rinsing the wheels and brake components during winter to remove road salt can help. Finally, listen to your vehicle. Any new noise, pull, or change in pedal feel is an early warning system. Addressing a minor sticking issue early can prevent the need for a full caliper replacement and save your rotors from warping.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from FORD owners:

Owner Experiences

"But if i put the car in park and turn it off and restart, the issue is completely solved. It never does this when cruising, just the first tine we drive off." — wifeys-ST (source)

"Haven't had an issue when subscribed getting Blue Cruise to work but system keep saying I wasn't looking at the road. Adjusted height of steering wheel which kinda helped but still beeped annoyingly." — D Hummel (source)

"Strange thing is I put the brake kit on over two years ago and only now did it start ticking. Rotor still appears centered in the pads and I have very little pad wear." — Cruising68 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "EDIT: I replaced the battery and reset the BCM and all codes and am still getting these issues 3 days later.) the most serious issue we have is that after startup, when we go to reverse out of our spot, the car will just roll with foot on the brake." — wifeys-ST (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "You should put the brakes in service mode, sometimes its difficult to take it out of service mode unless Forscan is used. https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_explorer_removal_and_installation_brake_caliper-530.html" — WaferTech (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a brake caliper? A: For a seasoned DIYer with all tools ready, replacing a single caliper and bleeding the system can take 1.5 to 2.5 hours. For a first-timer accounting for learning the service mode procedure and careful bleeding, budget 3-4 hours. A professional mechanic will typically book 1.5-2 hours of labor.

Q: Can I drive with a sticking or faulty caliper? A: It is strongly discouraged and unsafe. A stuck caliper can cause severe brake drag, leading to complete brake fade, warped rotors, and in extreme cases, a fire from overheated components. A caliper that isn't applying properly drastically reduces your stopping power. As evidenced by the owner who experienced a rolling vehicle, the failure can be intermittent and unpredictable.

Q: Is brake caliper failure a common issue on the 2020 Explorer? A: While not a universal epidemic, our data shows 69 discussions specifically touching on brake-related issues, with several detailing symptoms directly linked to caliper problems. It appears to be a known point of maintenance, especially in regions that use road salt. The complexity added by the electronic parking brake system also generates specific discussion points among owners.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for caliper replacement? A: This is a high-intermediate DIY job. If you are comfortable with basic mechanical work, understand the critical importance of bleeding brakes, and can carefully follow the steps for the electronic parking brake service mode, it is very doable. However, if the electronic system intimidates you or you lack confidence in creating a safe, air-free brake system, hiring a professional is the wise choice. The consequences of error are significant.

Q: Do I have to replace calipers in pairs? A: It is highly recommended, though not always absolutely mandatory if only one has catastrophically failed. Braking force should be equal side-to-side. Replacing just one caliper can lead to uneven braking and pulling. For consistency in performance and safety, replacing both calipers on the same axle (both fronts or both rears) is considered best practice.

Q: What's the deal with the "Brake Service Mode"? A: This is a specific function for vehicles with an integrated electronic parking brake (EPB). It retracts the caliper piston electronically so you can mechanically compress it for pad changes or caliper service. Without using it, you can damage the EPB actuator. As noted in the forums, exiting this mode sometimes requires a full system scan with a tool like Forscan if the standard dashboard procedure doesn't work.