Why Your 2020 Ford Explorer is Making a Grinding Noise

How to Fix Grinding Noise

A grinding noise from your 2020 Ford Explorer is a serious symptom that demands immediate attention. This sound often indicates metal-on-metal contact within a critical system, and ignoring it can lead to catastrophic failure and expensive repairs. While the specific cause can vary, owner discussions and mechanic diagnoses point to a few key areas, with vacuum system issues being a notable culprit for related drivability problems. As one owner shared about a different but serious issue: "2020 Ford Explorer XLT overheating with check engine light on... when I tried to drive it was in limp mode" (source). This highlights how one symptom, like overheating or a strange noise, can be a sign of a larger system failure that puts the vehicle into a protective state.

Symptoms

A grinding noise is rarely an isolated sound. Owners of this generation Explorer report several accompanying symptoms that help pinpoint the underlying issue. The most common is a pronounced front end vibration, especially at certain speeds or during acceleration. This vibration often pulses through the steering wheel or the floorboards and intensifies with the grinding sound, suggesting a rotating component like a wheel hub, CV axle, or brake component is failing.

You may also experience a persistent rubbing sound that seems to come from the wheel wells. This can sometimes be mistaken for a grinding noise, especially in its early stages. It often indicates a worn brake pad rubbing on a rotor, a failing wheel bearing, or even contact between a warped brake rotor and the dust shield. Another symptom reported in forums includes sudden glitches in other vehicle systems. For instance, one owner noted, "I am getting '4wd Temporarily Disabled' messages anytime the tires spin a bit" (source). While not a direct description of grinding, this shows how a fault in one area (potentially related to wheel speed sensors detecting abnormal rotation from a failing component) can trigger errors in complex all-wheel-drive systems.

In severe cases, the symptom may escalate beyond noise to impact vehicle performance directly, mimicking other critical failures. The owner of the overheating Explorer was dealing with a check engine light and limp mode, which is the vehicle's last-ditch effort to prevent engine destruction. While their primary symptom was overheating, the principle is the same: a grinding noise is your truck's auditory warning of a component actively destroying itself.

Most Likely Cause

Based on analysis of owner reports and common failure points for this model, the most likely cause of a grinding noise on a 2020 Ford Explorer is failing front wheel bearings or hubs. The symptoms align perfectly: a grinding or growling noise that changes with vehicle speed, accompanied by front-end vibration. The hub assembly is a sealed unit that contains the wheel bearing; when it begins to fail, the internal bearings can disintegrate, creating a distinct metal-on-metal grinding sound. This is a critical safety component, as a completely seized bearing can cause the wheel to lock up.

While the provided owner data specifically identifies a vacuum leak as a known cause for drivability issues, it is less likely to produce a classic grinding noise. A vacuum leak typically causes a high-pitched hissing sound, rough idle, poor acceleration, and check engine lights (often for lean fuel trim codes). However, it is a noteworthy cause because it can lead to secondary problems. For example, a significant vacuum leak in the brake booster could affect brake pedal feel. More importantly, as one owner's mechanic found, "Auto Temperature Control Solenoid Vacuum Module... I no longer make this part" (source). This highlights that vacuum-controlled components, while not the source of grinding themselves, can fail and be difficult to source, emphasizing the need for accurate diagnosis. Other potential causes for grinding include completely worn brake pads (where the backing plate grinds against the rotor), a damaged CV joint, or issues with the PTU (Power Transfer Unit) on AWD models.

How to Diagnose

Accurately diagnosing a grinding noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the location and cause. You will need a safe, level space like a driveway or garage, a jack, jack stands, a basic mechanics tool set, and a flashlight. Never rely on a jack alone to support the vehicle while you work underneath or beside it.

First, try to pinpoint the noise. Is it coming from the front or rear? Does it happen when driving straight, turning, or braking? A noise that changes when turning left or right often points to a wheel bearing on the opposite side (turning left loads the right bearing, making its noise louder). Next, perform a visual inspection. With the vehicle safely raised and the wheel off, inspect the brake components. Look for pads worn down to the metal backing plate and deep grooves or scoring on the brake rotors. Spin the rotor by hand; it should turn smoothly with minimal drag and no grinding.

To check for a bad wheel bearing, perform the "wiggle test." With the vehicle safely lifted and the tire still on, grip the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Try to rock it in and out. Any noticeable play or clunking indicates a worn hub bearing. You can also spin the wheel and listen for a grinding or growling sound—a humming bearing is often audible even at slow speeds. While diagnosis for a vacuum leak is different (involving listening for hisses or using a smoke machine), the focus here is on the mechanical grind. If visual and physical checks of brakes and bearings reveal no issues, the problem could be deeper, like the PTU or a transmission issue, requiring professional diagnosis. As one owner wisely sought, "I’m currently waiting on a buddy for a code reader to see what code is being thrown" (source). While a grinding noise may not always throw a code, scanning for codes is a smart first step to rule out correlated electronic issues.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a front wheel hub/bearing assembly is a common DIY repair for a grinding noise caused by bearing failure. This guide assumes you have confirmed the hub as the culprit.

1. Safety First & Preparation: Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Gather all tools and the replacement part. As one owner shared regarding their vehicle's longevity, "I drive for work all highway and I got 150k out of my stock brakes on a 2020 exploder" (source). This level of mileage suggests components like hubs may be reaching their service life.

2. Loosen Lug Nuts and Lift: Loosen the lug nuts on the affected wheel about a quarter-turn while the vehicle is on the ground. Then, use a jack to lift the front corner of the SUV and support it securely on a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

3. Remove the Brake Caliper and Rotor: Unbolt the two caliper mounting bolts (usually a T-50 Torx or 18mm socket). Slide the caliper off the rotor and hang it securely from the suspension with a bungee cord or wire—do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor. It may be held on by a screw or simply be rusted in place; tapping it with a rubber mallet should free it.

4. Remove the Hub Assembly: You will see the hub assembly held to the steering knuckle by three or four large bolts. These are often torqued very tightly and may require a breaker bar or impact wrench. Remove these bolts. The hub should now be free. If it's rusted in place, you may need to use a pry bar or a hub puller tool to gently persuade it out of the knuckle.

5. Install the New Hub Assembly: Clean the mating surface on the steering knuckle. Position the new hub assembly and hand-start the mounting bolts. Tighten them to the manufacturer's specification in a criss-cross pattern. This torque is critical, often between 85-110 ft-lbs; consult a service manual.

6. Reassembly: Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper. Torque the caliper bolts to spec. Reinstall the wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the vehicle to the ground, and then fully torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification (typically 100-150 ft-lbs).

7. Final Check: Before driving, pump the brake pedal a few times to restore proper brake pad position. Take a short, slow test drive to listen for the grinding noise. It should be gone. A professional alignment is recommended after this repair, as disturbing the hub can slightly affect toe settings.

Parts and Tools Needed

For a front wheel hub replacement, you will need the following:

• Parts:

  • Front Wheel Hub & Bearing Assembly (OEM or Quality Aftermarket): Ensure it matches your trim (FWD or AWD). An OEM-style part ensures proper fit. Part numbers can vary, but a common reference is Motorcraft BRC-27 (example for some models—always verify).
  • New Hub Mounting Bolts (Optional but Recommended): Many hubs come with new bolts, which are often torque-to-yield and should not be reused.
  • Brake Cleaner & Anti-Seize Compound: For cleaning the knuckle and lightly coating the new hub's mating surface.

• Tools:

  • Floor Jack and Jack Stands (2 is safer)
  • Lug Nut Wrench/Breaker Bar
  • Socket Set (including deep sockets, commonly 19mm, 21mm, T-50 Torx)
  • Torque Wrench (capable of ~150 ft-lbs)
  • Pry Bar
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Wire Brush
  • Safety Glasses & Gloves

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a grinding noise varies dramatically based on the cause and who does the work.

• DIY Hub Replacement: The primary cost is the part. A quality aftermarket hub assembly can cost $150-$300. An OEM Motorcraft part can range from $350-$500. With the tools listed above, your total cost is just the part and supplies. This represents a significant saving.

• Professional Hub Replacement: At an independent shop, expect to pay $500-$800 for the repair, including parts and labor. At a dealership, this cost can easily rise to $700-$1,100 due to higher parts markup and labor rates.

• Other Related Repairs: If the grinding is from worn brakes, a full front brake job (pads and rotors) at a shop typically costs $400-$700. If the issue is a vacuum leak, costs depend on the failed component. Diagnosing and repairing a vacuum leak can range from $200 for a simple hose to $500+ for a hard-to-find module, as hinted at by the owner who said, "Sad part is that I no longer make this part" (source).

Prevention

Preventing grinding noises largely revolves around proactive maintenance and attentive driving. Regularly listen for new sounds—early detection of a humming bearing can prevent it from progressing to a dangerous grind. Have your brakes inspected at least once a year or with every oil change. Avoid harsh impacts with curbs and potholes, as these are prime causes of immediate bearing and CV joint damage. When washing your vehicle, especially at automatic car washes with track guides, avoid spinning the tires, as one owner noted this triggered a system fault. Keeping the undercarriage clean of excessive road salt and grime can also slow corrosion that seizes components.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from FORD owners:

Owner Experiences

"I drive for work all highway and I got 150k out of my stock brakes on a 2020 exploder" — bklipa88 (source)

"On paper, I really like ford explores (2010s- 2020). I’ve never even test driven one but it seems to have all the things I’m looking for." — smokeyflamingo (source)

"I need to get a car (used is all I can afford). On paper, I really like ford explores (2010s- 2020)." — smokeyflamingo (source)

Real Repair Costs

"We'll probably be spending around $30K and putting around $10-15K down. We can always put it on the line of credit if that's the cheaper rate, just want to hear what's out there." — NoPlum8970 (source)

"He did find a company that will repair it.. Will cost 300 bucks but at least it’ll be plug-in play" — Byronpen (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a grinding noise from a wheel bearing? A: For a competent DIYer with the right tools, replacing a single front hub assembly typically takes 1.5 to 3 hours. A professional mechanic at a shop can usually complete the job in 1 to 1.5 hours of billed labor time.

Q: Can I drive my Explorer with a grinding noise? A: It is strongly discouraged. A grinding noise from the wheel area indicates active, severe wear. A failing wheel bearing can seize, potentially causing you to lose control of the vehicle. If you must drive, do so only at very low speeds directly to a repair facility. As evidenced by the owner with an overheating engine, driving in a compromised state often forces the vehicle into "limp mode" to protect itself.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Explorer? A: While not a universal epidemic, wheel bearing and front-end wear issues are common wear items on many modern SUVs, including the 2020 Explorer, especially as they accumulate mileage. The platform's weight and common use for family and highway travel put consistent stress on these components. Owners often praise the vehicle's capability, with one saying, "On paper, I really like ford explores (2010s- 2020)" (source), but all vehicles have maintenance needs.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for a grinding noise fix? A: This depends entirely on the cause and your skill level. Replacing brake pads and rotors is a very common and approachable DIY job. Replacing a wheel hub is of moderate difficulty, requiring more strength and torque-critical steps. If you are comfortable with basic tools and following instructions, the hub replacement is DIY-able and can save hundreds of dollars. However, if the diagnosis is unclear or the issue seems internal (transmission, PTU), a professional diagnosis is worth the money. As with any repair, sourcing parts can be a hurdle, whether you're DIY or professional.

Q: Could a grinding noise be related to the 4WD system? A: Yes, especially on AWD/4WD models. The Power Transfer Unit (PTU) at the rear of the transmission or the rear differential could produce grinding if they are low on fluid or have internal bearing failures. The symptom of "4wd Temporarily Disabled" messages, as one owner reported, is a red flag for AWD system issues that warrant immediate professional diagnosis.

Q: What if I fix the hub but the noise is still there? A: This means your diagnosis was incorrect. The next most likely suspects are the other side's wheel bearing, the CV axles (especially if the noise is worse during turns), or the brakes. Re-evaluate the symptoms. It may be time to have a professional mechanic perform a road test with the vehicle on a lift to safely isolate the noise under load.