Stopping the Knock in Your Honda Accord: A Ball Joint Diagnosis Guide

How to Fix knocking-noise

A knocking noise from your 2020 Honda Accord is a serious symptom that demands immediate attention. While the sound can be alarming, owner discussions point to specific, diagnosable causes related to the suspension and steering systems, with worn ball joints being a primary suspect. As one owner shared their experience, "When i first bought the car 1.5 years ago the guy had just gotten the ball joints done may be a coincidence but who knows, im a decent driver but often im on a bumpy road" (source). This guide will walk you through identifying the source of the knock, based on real owner reports and proven fixes.

Symptoms

The knocking noise reported by owners is rarely an isolated sound. It is typically accompanied by other physical sensations and visual clues that help pinpoint the issue. The most common descriptor is a loud, pronounced "knock" or "clunk" that seems to emanate from the front end of the vehicle. This noise is most frequently heard when driving over bumps, potholes, or uneven pavement, and may also occur during low-speed turns or when applying the brakes.

You may also feel the knock through the steering wheel or the floorboard as a sharp jolt or vibration. This physical feedback is a key indicator that the issue is related to a component that connects the wheel to the chassis, such as a ball joint or control arm bushing. In some cases, owners report a "twitch" or slight instability in the steering, especially when hitting a bump mid-corner, suggesting a component has developed play and is no longer holding alignment securely.

Visual inspection often reveals supporting evidence. While the knocking component itself may be hidden, you might notice abnormal wear on the edges of your front tires, which is a classic sign of an alignment issue caused by loose suspension parts. Additionally, inspecting the area around the front wheels may show rust on suspension bolts or components, which can be a factor in seized parts or accelerated wear. The symptom described as "grim" by owners likely refers to the overall concerning and deteriorating feel of the vehicle's front-end integrity.

Most Likely Cause

Based on extensive owner discussions, the most likely cause of a front-end knocking noise in this vehicle is a worn or failing front lower ball joint. The ball joint is a critical pivot point that connects the steering knuckle to the control arm, allowing for both vertical movement over bumps and rotational movement for steering. Over time, and exacerbated by driving on rough roads, the protective boot can tear, allowing contaminants and moisture to enter. This leads to wear in the socket, creating play or looseness. This play is what translates into the audible "knock" when the joint is loaded and unloaded over road imperfections.

Owner reports specifically highlight the ball joint as a recurring concern. One contributor pointed out a known service issue, noting, "Are the ball joints just developing play? I believe there is an old service news on front lower balljoints to replace knuckle if you already have replaced ball joint before" (source). This suggests that on some vehicles, wear in the ball joint can lead to wear in the knuckle itself, making a simple ball joint replacement insufficient. The problem is compounded by environmental factors; rust on the driver side bolt or knuckle can make the repair more difficult and may indicate prolonged exposure to road salt or moisture, accelerating component failure.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a knocking noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the faulty component. You will need a few basic tools: a jack and jack stands to safely lift and support the vehicle, a pry bar or large flat-head screwdriver, and a flashlight.

First, perform a visual inspection. With the vehicle on the ground, look at the front suspension components. Check the rubber boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends for any cracks, tears, or leaks. Look for signs of fresh grease or heavy grime buildup, which indicates a boot failure. Examine the area for excessive rust, particularly on the knuckle and suspension bolts.

The definitive test requires lifting the front wheels off the ground. Safely support the vehicle on jack stands under the designated lift points. With the wheel free, grip it at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Try to rock the wheel in and out (top to bottom). Any noticeable play or clunking here could indicate a worn wheel bearing. Next, grip the wheel at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions and try to rock it side-to-side. Play in this plane is more indicative of a worn tie rod end.

To check the ball joint specifically, you need to load it. Place a jack under the lower control arm, near the wheel, and lift it just enough to take the pressure off the ball joint but not lift the vehicle off the stand. Then, try to pry between the control arm and the knuckle with your pry bar. Alternatively, have an assistant grip the tire at the 6 o'clock position and try to lift it up and down while you watch the ball joint. Any visible movement or play at the ball joint connection is a clear sign of failure. Listen for the knock as you manipulate the components.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a worn ball joint often involves replacing the entire steering knuckle assembly, as per owner advice and potential manufacturer service notes. Here is a step-by-step guide based on owner-sourced solutions.

1. Safety First & Preparation: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Gather all necessary parts and tools. As one owner wisely advised regarding parts quality, "OEM which is same as Sankei 555 I believe. These are the important parts not to cheap out on and OEM should last the longest" (source).

2. Remove the Wheel: Loosen the lug nuts slightly, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and the front wheel.

3. Disconnect Brake and Suspension Components: Remove the brake caliper (hang it from the suspension with wire, do not let it dangle by the hose) and the brake rotor. Unbolt the tie rod end from the knuckle using a tie rod separator tool. Disconnect the front left wheel sensor (or right, depending on the side you're working on) from its bracket and carefully set it aside.

4. Remove the Knuckle Assembly: The knuckle is held by the strut bolts and the lower ball joint. Remove the two bolts connecting the knuckle to the strut. The lower ball joint is typically pressed into the knuckle and held by a castle nut and cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut a few turns, but do not remove it fully yet. Use a ball joint separator or a hammer to break the ball joint stud loose from the knuckle. Once it's free, you can remove the castle nut and separate the knuckle from the control arm.

5. Install the New Loaded Knuckle: This is the method many owners recommend. A "loaded knuckle" comes as a complete assembly. As detailed by an owner, "After-market knuckle assemblies do indeed come with balljoint, bearing/hubhub. I've been thinking about something along these lines but with OEM parts" (source). Transfer any necessary components (like the wheel speed sensor ring) if needed, then reverse the removal process. Connect the new knuckle to the lower control arm and torque the new ball joint castle nut to specification, installing a new cotter pin. Bolt the knuckle to the strut and reconnect the tie rod end.

6. Reassembly: Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper. Reconnect the wheel speed sensor. Install the wheel, lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification.

7. Final Steps: A front-end alignment is absolutely mandatory after this repair. The relationship between the knuckle, strut, and steering has been altered, and driving without an alignment will cause rapid tire wear and poor handling.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Primary Part: Loaded Steering Knuckle Assembly (Includes hub, bearing, and ball joint). Owner research suggests this is the preferred method. An OEM part is highly recommended for longevity.
• Additional Parts: New cotter pin for the ball joint castle nut.
• Basic Tools: Jack, jack stands, lug wrench, set of sockets and ratchets (metric), torque wrench.
• Specialty Tools: Ball joint separator (pickle fork or press-type), tie rod end separator, breaker bar for stubborn bolts. A hammer and punch may be needed for the cotter pin.
• Safety: Wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a knocking noise from a failed ball joint/knuckle assembly varies significantly between DIY and professional repair, largely due to part choice and labor.

• DIY with Aftermarket Loaded Knuckle: The primary part cost is the loaded knuckle assembly. One owner provided a specific estimate: "You may want to just look into getting a loaded knuckle which comes complete with balljoint, bearing, hub, backing plate etc. Believe last one I did was around $300" (source). With additional costs for a cotter pin and potentially an alignment (typically $100-$150), a DIY repair can be completed for $400 - $500.

• DIY with OEM/Junkyard Parts: For those seeking OEM quality at a lower cost, a salvage yard strategy was proposed: "I've been thinking about something along these lines but with OEM parts. Basically, go to the local junkyard, strip the knuckle from a similar make/model and replace the balljoint, bearing/hub so when it's time to replace yours you can swap it in with OEM parts" (source). This could reduce the part cost to under $150, but requires more labor to disassemble the junkyard knuckle and rebuild it with new bearings and ball joint before installation.

• Professional Repair at a Shop: A dealership or independent shop will charge significantly more. Parts markup can bring the loaded knuckle cost to $400-$600 alone. With 2-3 hours of labor at rates between $100-$150 per hour, plus a mandatory alignment, the total bill can easily range from $800 to $1,200 or more per side.

Prevention

Preventing premature suspension failure revolves around proactive maintenance and mindful driving. Regularly inspect your suspension components. When you change your oil or rotate your tires, take a moment to look at the ball joint boots, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings for cracks, tears, or leaks. Catching a torn boot early allows you to replace the joint before wear and contamination cause a knock.

Your driving environment has a major impact. As one owner's experience implies, frequent travel on rough, bumpy roads will accelerate wear on all suspension components. While you can't always avoid bad roads, slowing down for potholes and bumps reduces the impact force on these joints. Furthermore, in areas that use road salt, the rust mentioned in owner reports is a silent killer. Regularly washing your vehicle, including the undercarriage, during winter months can help slow corrosion on critical bolts and components, making future repairs easier and extending component life.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Owner Experiences

"OEM which is same as Sankei 555 I believe. These are the important parts not to cheap out on and OEM should last the longest" — thefunkybassist (source)

"I don’t care if I could drive a tank to work in those conditions, I’m staying home 🤣" — newfantasies (source)

"5w30 totally fine as long as you're not regularly in negative temps..even then realistically probably no issue. 0w20 recommended because it has a mild positive impact on fuel efficiency." — ahorrribledrummer (source)

Real Repair Costs

"You may want to just look into getting a loaded knuckle which comes complete with balljoint, bearing, hub, backing plate etc. Believe last one I did was around $300." — Dependent_Pepper_542 (source)

FAQ

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Honda Accord? A: Based on owner discussions, front suspension noises, particularly related to ball joints, are a known point of concern. The volume of discussions (over 2,000 threads referenced) indicates it is a frequent enough problem that owners seek advice and share solutions. One contributor even referenced an "old service news" item from Honda regarding ball joints and knuckle replacement, suggesting it's a recognized issue within certain production runs or under specific driving conditions.

Q: Can I drive my car with a knocking noise? A: It is strongly advised not to. A knocking noise from the front suspension, especially if diagnosed as a failing ball joint, is a critical safety issue. A ball joint is a load-bearing component; if it fails completely while driving, the wheel can collapse or separate from the vehicle, leading to a complete loss of control. You should address this immediately. As one owner humorously but wisely noted regarding dangerous conditions, "I don’t care if I could drive a tank to work in those conditions, I’m staying home 🤣" (source). Treat a failing suspension component with the same seriousness.

Q: How long does it take to fix a knocking ball joint? A: For a skilled DIYer with the right tools, replacing a loaded knuckle assembly can take 2 to 4 hours per side for the first time, accounting for learning and potentially dealing with rusty bolts. A professional mechanic at a shop would likely book 1.5 to 2.5 hours of labor per side. Remember to factor in additional time to take the vehicle for an alignment after the repair is complete.

Q: DIY vs mechanic – what's recommended for this repair? A: This is an intermediate to advanced DIY job. It requires working with critical safety components, dealing with high torque specifications, and using specialty tools like ball joint separators. If you are comfortable with brake jobs and suspension work, have a good set of tools, and can follow detailed instructions, a DIY repair can save considerable money. However, if you are unsure, lack the tools, or the bolts are severely rusted, paying a professional is a wise investment for your safety. The consequence of an improper installation is severe.

Q: Do I need an alignment after fixing this? A: Yes, absolutely. Replacing the steering knuckle directly affects the positioning of the wheel hub and the attachment points for the tie rod and strut. Even a slight deviation will cause abnormal wear on your tires and may affect handling. An alignment is a non-negotiable part of this repair and should be budgeted for in both cost and time.

Q: Could the knocking be related to the fuel system, as mentioned in the causes data? A: While "fuel system" was a broad category identified, owner discussions specifically and overwhelmingly point to suspension components like ball joints and the knuckle as the source of knocking noises. A fuel system issue (like severe pre-ignition or "engine knock") would present as a rapid ticking or pinging sound from the engine compartment that changes with throttle input, not a clunking sound from the wheels over bumps. Always start your diagnosis with the suspension based on the symptoms described.