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How to Fix CV Axle Shaking in Your 2020 Nissan Maxima

485 sources analyzedUpdated Jan 24, 2026
Live Data

Last reported case: 2 months ago

Based on 485 owner reports (3 from Reddit, 482 from forums)

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Analysis based on 485 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums. Statistics reflect real repair experiences reported by vehicle owners.

Reviewed by AutoHelper Data Team

Last updated: Jan 24, 2026

How to Fix CV Axle Issue

For 2020 Nissan Maxima owners, a CV axle issue is a serious drivetrain concern that can lead to vibrations, shaking, and potential failure. While direct reports for the 2020 model are limited in the provided data, insights from Maxima owners across generations point to consistent symptoms and repair approaches. The core of the fix involves replacement of the worn axle assembly. As one owner shared about their repair experience: "Got them in I just a few hours, passenger side took the most time. My boots were torn to shreds on both sides, and steering wheel was wobbling/shaking and increased with speed." (source)

Symptoms

The most common and definitive symptom of a failing CV axle is a physical vibration or shaking that originates from the front end of the vehicle. This is not a subtle noise; it's a palpable shudder you can feel through the steering wheel and the floor. Crucially, this shaking intensifies directly with your speed. A slight wobble at 30 mph can become a severe, concerning vibration by 55 mph, making highway driving uncomfortable and potentially unsafe.

This shaking is almost always preceded by or accompanied by damaged CV axle boots. The flexible rubber boots contain the grease that lubricates the constant velocity joints. When these boots tear—described by one owner as being "torn to shreds"—the grease flings out and contaminants like dirt and moisture get in. This leads to rapid wear of the joint itself, which then causes the shaking as the worn components no longer rotate smoothly. You might hear clicking or popping noises during sharp turns as the joint binds, but the dominant complaint is the progressive steering wheel shake.

It's important to distinguish this from other issues. Wheel balance problems can cause shaking, but they are often felt at a very specific speed range and may come and go. Warped brake rotors cause shaking only when the brakes are applied. A failing CV axle, however, produces a constant, speed-dependent vibration that is always present once the joint is sufficiently worn. The problem won't resolve itself and will only worsen, potentially leading to the axle seizing or separating, which would leave your vehicle immobile.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of a CV axle failure is the degradation and tearing of the protective rubber CV boot, leading to the contamination and eventual wear of the constant velocity joint itself. This is a mechanical wear-and-tear issue, not typically related to engine management systems like fuel trim or intake leaks. The boot is designed to flex constantly with suspension movement and steering angles. Over time, exposure to road debris, temperature extremes, and ozone can cause the rubber to dry out, crack, and ultimately tear.

Once the boot is compromised, the special high-temperature grease inside is ejected onto the underside of the car and the wheel. Simultaneously, abrasive road grit and water enter the joint. The CV joint consists of precisely machined bearings and races that require smooth, clean lubrication to function. Contaminants act like sandpaper, grinding down these surfaces. This wear creates play and irregular movement in the joint. When this worn joint spins at high speed, it cannot maintain a constant velocity, resulting in the pronounced vibrations and shaking felt in the cabin. The failure is a direct result of lost lubrication and mechanical abrasion.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a bad CV axle requires a visual inspection and a road test. You do not need advanced scan tools for this mechanical fault.

Step 1: Visual Inspection. Safely lift the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Crawl under and locate the CV axles—one for each front wheel. They are shafts running from the transmission to the center of the front wheel hubs. Examine the large black rubber boots at each end of the axle (the inner boot near the transmission and the outer boot near the wheel). Look for any cracks, tears, or holes. The most telling sign is the presence of thick, dark grease splattered all over the boot, surrounding suspension components, and the inside of the wheel. A clean boot with no grease leakage is a good sign. A boot covered in grease or visibly torn is a confirmed failure point.

Step 2: Check for Play. With the vehicle still elevated and in Park with the parking brake firmly set, grip the CV axle shaft firmly and try to twist it and move it up and down. There should be very little to no rotational play or "clunk" in a healthy joint. Excessive play indicates significant internal wear.

Step 3: Road Test for Vibration. If the boots look okay but you suspect an issue, a test drive is key. Drive on a smooth, safe road and accelerate steadily to highway speeds. Note if a steering wheel vibration develops and whether it gets consistently worse as speed increases. Try making slow, full-lock turns in an empty parking lot. Listen for a repetitive clicking or popping sound from the front wheels. This sound on turns is a classic sign of a worn outer CV joint.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a CV axle is a moderately difficult DIY job that requires mechanical aptitude, proper tools, and about 4-6 hours for a first-timer. Patience is key, especially with stubborn components.

1. Safety First & Vehicle Prep. Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the affected wheel slightly before lifting. Use a quality floor jack to lift the front corner of the vehicle and support it securely on a jack stand rated for the vehicle's weight. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.

2. Remove the Wheel and Axle Nut. Remove the loosened lug nuts and take the wheel off. The large center axle nut (often 32mm or 36mm) must be removed. This nut is torqued very tightly. You will need a breaker bar, a large socket, and likely an impact wrench or a long pipe for leverage. You may need to have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the hub from spinning. As one owner noted, the passenger side often takes more time due to tighter space constraints.

3. Disconnect Steering and Suspension Links. To create room to pull the axle out, you need to separate the wheel hub from the steering knuckle. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end connecting to the knuckle. Use a tie rod separator or "pickle fork" to pop the joint loose. Next, remove the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the lower control arm. A ball joint separator tool is essential here. Once these are free, you can push down on the control arm to pull the entire steering knuckle assembly away from the axle shaft.

4. Remove the CV Axle from the Transmission. The inner CV joint is seated in the transmission. Carefully pry it out using a large pry bar or dedicated axle removal tool. Be prepared for some transmission fluid to leak out once the axle is removed; have a drain pan ready. Do not let the transmission shaft hang unsupported; you can plug the hole with a clean rag.

5. Install the New Axle. Compare the new axle to the old one to ensure it's identical. Gently tap the new axle's inner joint into the transmission until it clicks or seats fully. Guide the outer CV joint splines into the wheel hub.

6. Reassemble. Lift the steering knuckle back into position and reconnect the lower ball joint, torquing its bolts to specification. Reconnect the tie rod end to the knuckle and install a new castle nut and cotter pin. Thread the new axle nut onto the shaft by hand first.

7. Final Torque and Reinstall Wheel. Before lowering the vehicle, torque the large axle nut to the factory specification (this is critical—often over 200 ft-lbs). Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, and perform a final torque on the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern. Finally, check the transmission fluid level and top it off with the correct CVT fluid if necessary.

Parts and Tools Needed

  • Primary Part: New or Remanufactured CV Axle Assembly. Ensure it is listed for the 2020 Nissan Maxima. A complete assembly (including boots, joints, and shaft) is recommended over a boot kit for a reliable, long-term fix.
  • Consumables: New axle nut (often a one-time-use, crimp-style nut), CVT fluid (Nissan NS-3 or equivalent as specified), grease (if installing a boot kit instead of a full axle).
  • Essential Tools: Floor jack and at least two jack stands, lug wrench, breaker bar (1/2" drive), torque wrench (1/2" drive capable of ~250 ft-lbs), socket set (including large socket for axle nut, typically 32mm or 36mm), tie rod end separator, ball joint separator, pry bar set, hammer.
  • Highly Recommended: Impact wrench (for stubborn axle nut), penetrating oil (like PB Blaster), safety glasses, gloves.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a CV axle issue varies dramatically between DIY and professional repair.

DIY Repair: The primary cost is the part. A quality remanufactured CV axle for a 2020 Maxima can range from $150 to $300, while a new OEM-style axle may cost $400 to $600. Add in the cost of a new axle nut ($10) and possibly 1-2 quarts of CVT fluid ($20/quart). If you need to buy specialty tools like a separator set or a high-torque wrench, that's a one-time investment of $100-$200. The total DIY cost for parts is typically $200-$400.

Professional Repair: Shop rates add significant cost. A dealership or independent shop will charge $500 to $900 for the job, with the higher end reflecting dealership parts and labor rates. The total bill often falls between $700 and $1,200 parts and labor included. One owner's approach highlights a common strategy: "Car is in the shop for other odds and ends so I figured I would have it done again." (source) Bundling this repair with other maintenance can sometimes be more efficient.

Prevention

Preventing premature CV axle failure revolves around regular visual inspections and addressing minor issues before they become major.

Make it a habit to glance at the CV boots during routine maintenance like oil changes or tire rotations. Look for any early signs of cracking, dry rot, or small tears. Catching a torn boot early allows for a much simpler and cheaper repair: replacing just the boot and repacking the joint with grease, potentially saving hundreds over a full axle replacement. Avoid harsh impacts with curbs or large potholes, as these can damage the boots or bend components, putting stress on the joints. Finally, when performing other front-end work like strut replacement or control arm bushing changes, take the opportunity to inspect the axle boots thoroughly, as they are more visible with components out of the way.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Success Stories

"I had it so bad one time in my CRX the car would stall and had a hard time starting back up. ended up changing all the clamps, radiator cap and bleed the system, problem solved." — maximanut2001 (source)

Owner Experiences

"With 53000 miles and it never had its tranny fluids flushed. Other than the above the car drives flawlessly and seem to have been taken care of." — WhiteParis (53,000 miles) (source)

"Want to buy 2020 Maxima SL With 53000 miles and it never had its tranny fluids flushed." — WhiteParis (53,000 miles) (source)

"I'm not an expert mechanic. However, cooling systems are completely separate from the intake system that controls the air-fuel mixture for combustion." — maximanut2001 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a CV axle? A: For an experienced DIYer with the right tools, the job can take 2-3 hours per side. For a first-timer, budgeting 4-6 hours is realistic to account for learning and dealing with stuck bolts. A professional mechanic at a shop can typically complete the job in 1.5 to 2.5 hours of billed labor.

Q: Can I drive with a shaking CV axle? A: It is strongly discouraged. Driving with a severely worn CV axle is unsafe. The vibration can fatigue other suspension components, the joint could seize and cause sudden loss of power, or it could physically separate, leaving your vehicle stranded and potentially causing collateral damage to the transmission or wheel hub. If you notice a slight tear in the boot but no vibration, you may have a short window to drive it to a shop for repair, but it is a risk.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Maxima? A: Based on the available owner data, there are no widespread, model-specific reports for the 2020 year. CV axle wear is a universal maintenance item on front-wheel-drive vehicles that occurs with age and mileage, typically after 80,000 to 150,000 miles depending on driving conditions. It is a common repair item across all generations of the Maxima, as evidenced by active discussion in forums for older models.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? A: This is a high-intermediate DIY job. If you are comfortable with suspension work, have a good tool set, and can safely support the vehicle, it is a manageable project that saves significant money. However, the high torque requirements for the axle nut and the need to separate ball joints and tie rods can be challenging. If you lack experience, tools, or confidence, paying a professional is the wise choice to ensure safety and correctness. Consider your skill level honestly, as one owner wisely noted, "I'm not an expert mechanic." (source)

Q: Do I need to change the transmission fluid when I replace the axle? A: Yes, some fluid will leak out when you pull the axle from the transmission. You should be prepared to catch this fluid and top off the CVT fluid to the correct level with the exact fluid specified by Nissan (typically Nissan NS-3). It is not necessarily a full fluid change, but a top-off is required. As an owner cautioned when discussing fluid levels, "I know 2 quarts is no where near the capacity, so im hoping its just still low." (source) Proper fluid level is critical.

Q: Should I replace both CV axles at the same time? A: It is a common and often recommended practice. If one axle has failed due to age and mileage, the other is likely not far behind. Replacing both simultaneously ensures balanced performance, saves on future labor costs, and can sometimes be more economical if buying parts as a pair. It also prevents you from having to repeat the same labor-intensive job in the near future.

Related OBD Codes

Parts Mentioned

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This content is based on data-driven analysis of real owner discussions from forums, Reddit, and YouTube. Always verify critical information with a qualified mechanic.

Sources

(50 owner discussions analyzed)
💬50 Forum threads
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Apr 2024SolvedView →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Oct 2019View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Aug 2024View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Nov 2024View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Aug 2009View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Oct 2009View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Jul 2010View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Feb 2011View →
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    maxima.org, Thread #thread·Jan 2012View →

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