Why Your Nissan Maxima is Making a Grinding Noise (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Grinding Noise

A grinding noise from your 2020 Nissan Maxima is a serious symptom that demands immediate attention to prevent costly damage. While the specific cause can vary, owner discussions frequently point to issues related to the vehicle's wheels, brakes, and suspension components as primary suspects. Ignoring such a noise can lead to safety hazards and more expensive repairs down the line. As one owner shared their experience with a related suspension noise: "However, I soon began to notice a 'thunking' noise when turning the steering wheel. The noise is due to the passenger's side coil spring ROTATING ABOUT IT'S AXIS AS THE WHEEL CHANGES DIRECTION." This highlights how a seemingly minor noise can indicate a significant mechanical issue.

Symptoms

Owners describe the grinding noise in various contexts, often linked to specific driving conditions. A common report is a metallic grinding or scraping sound that changes with vehicle speed, typically becoming louder and more frequent as you accelerate. This is a classic sign of a brake or wheel bearing issue. The noise may pulse or rhythmically scrape if it's related to a warped brake rotor or a damaged dust shield rubbing against a rotor.

Another symptom reported is a deep grinding or clunking noise when turning the steering wheel, especially at low speeds or when navigating parking lots. This can indicate problems within the front suspension or steering system, such as worn strut mounts, failing CV joints, or issues with the coil spring itself, as noted in the owner quote. The noise may feel like it's coming from the front wheel wells and can sometimes be accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel.

Some owners may also confuse a severe grinding with a "thunking" or banging sound when going over bumps. This points more directly to suspension components like struts, control arm bushings, or sway bar links that have worn out. It’s crucial to note whether the grinding is constant, intermittent, or only occurs under braking, as this is the key to diagnosis. A noise that only happens when the brake pedal is applied almost certainly originates from the brake system itself.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner discussions and the parts frequently mentioned, the most likely cause of a grinding noise on a 2020 Nissan Maxima is an issue with the wheel, brake, or suspension assembly. Owner data specifically highlights 18" and 19" OEM wheels and related components. A very common culprit is a worn-out brake pad that has depleted its friction material, causing the metal backing plate to grind directly against the brake rotor. This produces a harsh, metallic grinding sound that is impossible to ignore and will quickly destroy the rotor.

Other wheel and brake-related causes include a seized brake caliper piston, a stuck brake pad that isn't retracting properly, or a completely failed wheel bearing. A failing wheel bearing often starts as a humming noise that progresses to a definitive growling or grinding sound that changes with speed. Furthermore, suspension issues, like the rotating coil spring mentioned by an owner, can create grinding or thunking noises as components shift and rub against each other during steering and suspension travel. Any foreign object, like a small rock, lodged between the rotor and the dust shield can also create a temporary but alarming grinding noise.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a grinding noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the source. You will need a safe, level place to work like a driveway, a jack and jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight, a lug wrench, and a flashlight.

Step 1: Identify the Driving Conditions. Pay close attention to when the noise happens. Does it occur all the time, only when turning, only when braking, or only over bumps? Note if the steering wheel vibrates. A noise during braking points to brake pads or rotors. A noise during turning suggests CV joints or suspension. A constant drone that changes with speed points to a wheel bearing.

Step 2: Perform a Visual Inspection. With the vehicle parked and the parking brake firmly engaged, visually inspect each wheel. Look for excessive brake dust on one wheel compared to the others, which can indicate a sticking caliper. Shine a flashlight through the wheel spokes to look at the brake pad thickness. If you see less than 1/4 inch of pad material, they are likely worn. Also, check for any obvious damage to the brake rotor, like deep grooves or scoring.

Step 3: The Jack and Spin Test (SAFETY FIRST). Safely lift the corner of the vehicle where you suspect the noise is coming from and support it with a jack stand. Grasp the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to rock it. Excessive play often indicates a bad wheel bearing. Next, spin the tire by hand. Listen for any grinding, scraping, or roughness. If you hear grinding when spinning the wheel freely, the issue could be a brake pad dragging, a bad bearing, or a bent dust shield. Have an assistant gently apply the brake while you spin the wheel; if the grinding stops, the issue is almost certainly brake-related.

Step-by-Step Fix

The following steps outline the process for replacing front brake pads and rotors, one of the most common repairs for a grinding noise. Always consult a factory service manual for the most accurate specifications for your 2020 Nissan Maxima.

Step 1: Gather Tools and Parts. Ensure you have all necessary tools: jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set, C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool, torque wrench, brake cleaner, and anti-seize compound. Have your new brake pads and rotors ready.

Step 2: Loosen Lug Nuts and Safely Lift the Vehicle. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you're working on while the car is on the ground. Then, lift that corner of the vehicle with the jack and place it securely on a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Brake Caliper. Locate the two caliper mounting bolts on the back of the caliper. These are usually 14mm or 17mm. Remove these bolts. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose; use a bungee cord or wire to suspend it from the suspension.

Step 4: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Rotor. The brake pads will now be accessible. Remove them from the caliper bracket. The rotor may be held on by a small screw or may simply be rusted in place. If it's stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet from behind to free it. As one owner emphasized the importance of methodical work: "I am planning on working on it tonight, but I thought I ask here if anyone knows if it can be done without removing the fan. Either way, I'm going to get it done..."

Step 5: Compress the Caliper Piston. Before installing new, thicker pads, you must push the caliper piston back into its bore. Use a C-clamp or a proper piston tool. Place the old brake pad against the piston and slowly tighten the clamp until the piston is fully retracted.

Step 6: Install New Rotor and Pads. Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove any protective oil. Slide it onto the hub. Install the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the back of the pads where they contact the bracket to prevent future squealing.

Step 7: Reinstall the Caliper and Wheel. Carefully place the caliper back over the new rotor and align it with the mounting holes. Reinstall and torque the caliper bolts to the factory specification (typically 26-32 ft-lbs). Reinstall the wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the vehicle to the ground, and then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification (typically 98 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Bed-in the New Brakes. Before driving normally, you must bed-in the new pads and rotors. Find a safe, empty road. Accelerate to about 45 mph and then gently brake down to 20 mph. Repeat this process 5-6 times without coming to a complete stop. This transfers an even layer of pad material onto the rotor for optimal performance and quiet operation.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Brake Pads: OEM or high-quality aftermarket pads for 2020 Nissan Maxima. Part numbers vary by trim (SL, SV, etc.) and wheel size (18" or 19").
• Brake Rotors: OEM or premium aftermarket rotors. Ensure they match your wheel size.
• Brake Cleaner: Aerosol can for cleaning rotors and components.
• Anti-Seize Compound: For the back of brake pads and caliper slide pins.
• Silicone Grease: For lubricating caliper slide pins and bushings.
• Basic Tool Set: Sockets (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm are common), ratchet, extensions.
• Torque Wrench: Essential for proper lug nut and caliper bolt torque.
• Jack and Jack Stands: Must be rated for the vehicle's weight.
• Lug Wrench/Wheel Lock Key: For removing wheels.
• C-Clamp or Brake Piston Tool: For retracting the caliper piston.
• Rubber Mallet: For freeing a stuck rotor.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a grinding noise varies dramatically based on the cause and who does the work.

DIY Brake Job: For a DIYer tackling front brake pads and rotors, parts are the primary cost. A set of quality aftermarket pads and rotors can range from $200 to $400 for both front wheels. If you already own the basic tools, your total cost is confined to this range. This is the most economical path if you're mechanically inclined.

Professional Brake Service: Taking your Maxima to an independent shop for a front brake job (pads and rotors) will typically cost between $400 and $700 per axle, depending on parts quality and local labor rates. Dealerships will be higher, often ranging from $600 to $900 or more for the same service. As an owner considering a used Maxima noted, deferred maintenance can be a red flag: "With 53000 miles and it never had its tranny fluids flushed. Other than the above the car drives flawlessly and seem to have been taken care of." This mindset applies to brakes as well; catching wear items early is far cheaper.

Major Suspension or Bearing Repair: If the grinding is from a failed wheel bearing or a major suspension component like a strut, costs rise. A single wheel bearing replacement at a shop can cost $300 to $600. Replacing a front strut assembly can run $400 to $800 per side when factoring in parts, labor, and a subsequent alignment.

Prevention

Preventing grinding noises is about proactive maintenance and attentive driving.

1. Regular Brake Inspections: Visually check your brake pad thickness every time you rotate your tires (every 5,000-7,500 miles). Listen for early warning signs like high-pitched squealing from wear indicators.
2. Use Quality Parts: When repairs are needed, invest in OEM or reputable aftermarket parts. Cheap brake components can wear unevenly, cause noise, and damage rotors faster.
3. Keep Components Clean and Lubricated: When servicing brakes, always clean the caliper brackets and lubricate the slide pins with silicone grease. This ensures the pads retract properly and don't drag, causing premature wear and heat buildup.
4. Address Noises Immediately: Never ignore a new noise. A slight squeak can turn into a damaging grind in a very short amount of time. Early diagnosis almost always results in a simpler, cheaper repair.
5. Professional Inspections: During routine oil changes, ask the technician to perform a multi-point inspection and report on brake pad life and the condition of suspension components.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Success Stories

"These self-service OBD emission testing devices are finicky. I had to disconnect and connect twice until it worked." — mahanddeem (source)

"I had to disconnect and connect twice until it worked. I know my obd port is spotless." — mahanddeem (source)

"I haven't had the code since. The cleaner worked great! and it was wicked easy. jiofi.local.html tplinklogin" — trent55a (source)

Owner Experiences

"With 53000 miles and it never had its tranny fluids flushed. Other than the above the car drives flawlessly and seem to have been taken care of." — WhiteParis (53,000 miles) (source)

"Want to buy 2020 Maxima SL With 53000 miles and it never had its tranny fluids flushed." — WhiteParis (53,000 miles) (source)

"thunking noise when turning steering wheel / rotating coil spring I recently installed some struts I purchased from an orger way back in the day...they have KYB struts." — reallywildstuff (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "Hard to tell exactly, but I'm guessing the fittings. I have a replacement hose, but either way I'd still have to remove the hose." — NCSUpilot (source)

⚠️ "Blind Spot Warning (BSW) and Rear Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA) indicator. Quickly and easily found in the Owners' Manual." — RickSmith (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "Quote: Originally Posted by Mmonte P0455, p0441 Try some lithium grease around the seal of the gas cap and make sure you are using an oem cap. I havent had an issue with mine since." — LtLeary (source)

💡 "Accept the car as is, make sure you replace cvt fluid and filter. Keep regular oil changes with oil filters. ​​​​Keep it peaceful." — mahanddeem (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a grinding noise from the brakes? A: For a competent DIYer, replacing brake pads and rotors on one axle (both front wheels) typically takes 2 to 3 hours for the first time, including setup and cleanup. A professional mechanic in a well-equipped shop can usually complete the job in 1 to 1.5 hours.

Q: Can I drive my Maxima with a grinding noise? A: It is strongly discouraged and can be dangerous. A grinding brake noise means metal is contacting metal, which severely reduces braking efficiency and can cause the brakes to overheat and fail. If the noise is from a wheel bearing, it could seize and cause the wheel to lock up. Drive only as far as absolutely necessary to get the vehicle to a repair facility, and do so with extreme caution.

Q: Is a grinding noise a common issue on the 2020 Maxima? A: Grinding noises are not model-specific defects but are common wear-and-tear issues on any vehicle as brake pads and suspension components age. The 2020 Maxima, with its performance-oriented nature, may see brake wear sooner if driven aggressively. Owner discussions frequently center on wheel and brake components, confirming these as typical maintenance points.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for a grinding noise fix? A: If you have basic mechanical skills, tools, and the noise is confirmed to be from worn brake pads/rotors, a DIY approach is very feasible and can save hundreds of dollars. However, if you are unsure of the diagnosis, lack tools, or the issue involves complex suspension or steering work (like a CV joint or wheel bearing), it is safer and more reliable to take it to a professional. As an owner shared about tackling a different repair: "I haven't had the code since. The cleaner worked great! and it was wicked easy." This confidence comes from understanding the task—if you don't feel that confidence with brakes, seek professional help.

Q: Could a grinding noise be caused by something other than brakes? A: Absolutely. While brakes are the prime suspect, a failing wheel bearing produces a grinding or growling roar. A damaged CV joint can grind and click during turns. Severe suspension issues, like the coil spring problem described by an owner, can also create metallic grinding or clunking sounds. Proper diagnosis is key.

Q: Will I need an alignment after fixing the noise? A: If you only replace brake pads and rotors, an alignment is not required. However, if the repair involves replacing any suspension component that affects wheel geometry—such as a strut, control arm, or tie rod—then a front-end alignment is absolutely necessary and should be factored into the repair cost and plan.