How to Fix a Bouncy Ride and Clicking Struts on Your Maxima

How to Fix Struts Issue

For 2020 Nissan Maxima owners, issues with the struts and suspension can manifest as a bouncy ride, unusual noises, and handling problems, often related to modifications or wear. While the provided owner data spans multiple generations of Maxima, the core principles of diagnosis and repair for struts, springs, and alignment are directly applicable to your 2020 model. The experiences of past owners provide a valuable roadmap for tackling these issues, whether you're dealing with wear or planning an upgrade. As one owner, Jbling700, wisely advised about suspension work: "I recommend placing the car on jack stands and doing the rears first. The rears are easy since the strut and spring assembly are separate from one another."

Symptoms

Owners report a distinct and often unsettling change in how the vehicle feels and sounds on the road. The most common complaint is a bouncy or floaty ride quality, where the car continues to oscillate after hitting a bump instead of settling quickly. This is a classic sign of worn shock absorbers within the strut assembly, which are no longer effectively damping the spring's motion.

Another frequent symptom is a pronounced bumpiness or harshness over road imperfections. You might feel every crack and pebble transmitted directly through the chassis, indicating the struts have lost their ability to absorb impacts. This is often accompanied by strange noises. A clicking or popping sound when going over bumps or during turning maneuvers is a significant red flag. This noise can point to several issues, such as a worn strut mount, a loose component in the assembly, or problems with related parts like ball joints that are stressed by altered suspension geometry.

When modifications are involved, such as installing lowering springs, a new set of symptoms can arise. Camber issues, where the top of the tire tilts inward or outward excessively, are a common consequence of lowering the vehicle without a proper alignment. This leads to rapid and uneven tire wear, particularly on the inside edges. Owners note that these symptoms can be subtle; as bmanbmv shared from their experience: "Most passengers in the car do not notice it, but I do." This highlights the importance of trusting your own sense of the vehicle's behavior, as you are its primary driver and most familiar with its normal state.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the collective owner data, the primary cause of strut-related symptoms in the context of the 2020 Nissan Maxima is the alteration of factory suspension geometry and the subsequent strain on components. While general wear over time is a factor, the most detailed discussions revolve around the effects of modification. Installing lowering springs changes the operating range and angle of the struts, control arms, and tie rods. This can accelerate wear on the struts themselves, as they are now operating outside their designed stroke, and place stress on other components like ball joints.

Furthermore, lowering the vehicle without a corresponding alignment correction directly causes negative camber. The suspension is designed with a specific range of motion, and lowering it pulls the wheels into an exaggerated tilt. This is not a defect of the parts but a predictable outcome of the modification. As owner Chippewaking98 noted regarding camber correction, "I was lowered at least 2" and camber bolts off ebay worked just dandy." This indicates that the root cause (altered geometry) is well-known in the community and has specific, affordable solutions. The stress from this new geometry can also lead to premature failure of original equipment struts not valved for the stiffer springs, resulting in that harsh, bumpy ride quality.

How to Diagnose

A proper diagnosis starts with a careful assessment of the symptoms and a visual inspection. Begin by driving the car on a familiar road. Note if the ride is bouncy, if there are new clunks or pops, and if the steering feels less precise. Find a safe, empty parking lot and perform slow, tight turns in both directions. Listen for clicking or popping sounds from the front wheels, which can indicate a worn CV joint or strut mount bearing.

Next, perform a visual inspection. With the car parked on level ground and the wheels pointed straight, look at each wheel. Can you see a noticeable tilt? Excessive negative camber (top of the tire leaning in) is often visible to the naked eye on a lowered vehicle. Then, with the car safely supported on jack stands, get underneath. Check the strut assemblies for any obvious signs of fluid leakage, which indicates a blown seal. Grasp the front tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to rock it vigorously. Any significant play could point to a tie rod issue. Now, grasp it at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rock it. Play here is more indicative of a worn wheel bearing or ball joint. As owner Qawmuh discovered during their troubleshooting, "So far I have replaced my wheel bearings and my struts and two different mechanics cant find any issues with any bushings or seals." This highlights the process of elimination sometimes required.

Finally, if you have modified the suspension, your diagnosis must include an alignment check. Even if you don't see severe tire wear yet, a professional alignment readout will show you the exact camber, caster, and toe angles. This data is crucial for determining if your symptoms are purely alignment-based or if they require hardware changes like camber adjustment bolts or new struts designed for lowered applications.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing struts or springs on your Maxima is a serious DIY project that requires proper tools and safety precautions. This guide assumes you are replacing complete, pre-assembled strut units (a common and safer approach) or have access to a professional spring compressor.

1. Gather Tools and Safety Equipment: You will need a floor jack, at least two high-quality jack stands, a lug wrench, socket set, wrenches, a torque wrench, and penetrating oil. A power impact tool is highly recommended for stubborn bolts. As wolexity21 strongly advised: "Make sure you have the right tools, jack, jack stand, power tool, impact tool, a shop grade coil/spring compressor, the autozone rented tool is no good IMO." Safety glasses and gloves are non-negotiable.

2. Secure the Vehicle and Remove the Wheel: Park on a flat, solid surface. Loosen the lug nuts on the corner you are working on slightly before lifting. Lift the vehicle with the floor jack at the designated front or rear lift point and securely place a jack stand under a solid part of the frame or subframe. Lower the jack onto the stand for safety. Now, fully remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off.

3. Disconnect the Strut Assembly: For the front, you will typically need to disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut or control arm. Then, locate the two or three bolts at the top of the strut tower in the engine bay or under a cover in the trunk (for rears). Do not remove them completely yet. Underneath, locate the two large bolts that connect the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle. Apply penetrating oil and remove these lower bolts. You may need to use a pry bar to gently spread the knuckle to free the strut. Once the lower bolts are out, you can go back and fully remove the top nuts/bolts and carefully lower the assembly out of the vehicle.

4. Install the New Strut Assembly: If you are using a pre-assembled strut/spring unit, installation is the reverse of removal. Carefully guide the new assembly into place, hand-starting the top bolts. Then, align the bottom of the strut with the knuckle and insert the lower bolts. Tighten the lower bolts to the manufacturer's specification first, then torque the top nuts. Reconnect the sway bar link. For the rear, the process is often simpler, as Jbling700 noted: "The rears are easy since the strut and spring assembly are separate from one another." This means you may only need to swap the shock, leaving the spring in place.

5. Final Steps and Alignment: Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification. Repeat the process for all corners being serviced. Crucially, a professional wheel alignment is mandatory after any strut replacement or suspension modification. This will correct camber, caster, and toe settings to ensure proper tire wear and handling. As one owner found, camber bolts can be an effective solution: *"If it's not terrible, then you can use camber bolts...but this sounds ***ed up lol. I was lowered at least 2" and camber bolts off ebay worked just dandy," shared Chippewaking98.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Complete Strut Assembly (Quick-Strut): Recommended for DIY safety. Ensure it matches your 2020 Maxima trim (e.g., with or without sport suspension). Brands include Monroe, KYB, or OEM Nissan.
  • Lowering Springs (Optional): If modifying, Eibach Pro-Kit is a popular choice mentioned by owners.
  • Camber Adjustment Bolts: Needed to correct alignment after lowering. Generic kits are available, but ensure they are the correct size (often 14mm).
  • Front Sway Bar End Links: Often recommended to replace when doing strut work, as they can be stressed during removal.
• Tools:
  • Floor Jack & (2) Jack Stands
  • Lug Wrench / Socket
  • Socket Set (Metric) & Wrench Set
  • Torque Wrench
  • Power Impact Wrench (Highly Recommended)
  • Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
  • Pry Bar
  • Professional-Grade Spring Compressor (IF disassembling OEM struts) - This is critical. Rental tools are often not sufficient for the high tension of Maxima springs.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to address strut issues varies dramatically based on whether you DIY, use aftermarket parts, or hire a professional. The owner data provides clear examples from similar work on earlier Maxima models, which serve as a reliable benchmark.

DIY with Pre-Assembled Struts: A set of four quality aftermarket quick-strut assemblies can range from $400 to $800 for parts. Add $50-$100 for ancillary items like camber bolts and end links. Your total investment is in the $450-$900 range, plus your time and the cost of a final alignment (typically $100-$150).

Professional Strut Replacement: For labor-only costs, owners reported quotes for spring installation that give us a baseline. bmanbmv received quotes to install lowering springs: "they are quoting me prices from $250 to up to $600 to have them replaced." Full strut replacement is more labor-intensive. If you supply the parts, expect labor costs between $400 and $800 for all four corners. A dealership or shop supplying OEM parts could easily push the total bill to $1,500 to $2,500.

Combination Modification Install: Owners who combined spring and strut work found efficiency. bmanbmv shared a key insight from their installer: "My install guys did the Eibach Pro kit for $200 and during that time he recommend to change out the shocks/struts also. He said it would only be about $30 more to change them at the same time, but $200 if I wanted to replace them later." This highlights a major cost-saving strategy: bundling labor-intensive suspension work.

Prevention

Preventing premature strut failure and associated issues starts with mindful driving and maintenance. Avoid potholes and sharp impacts whenever possible, as these can damage strut internals instantly. If you lower your vehicle, invest in a professional alignment immediately after installation. Do not wait for tire wear to appear. Consider upgrading to struts that are specifically valved for lowering springs, as they are designed to handle the altered travel and provide better damping.

Regular inspections are key. Every time you rotate your tires (every 5,000-7,500 miles), take a moment to look at the struts for leaks and check for any unusual tire wear patterns, especially on the inside edges. Listen for new noises over bumps. Addressing a minor click or a slight bounce early can prevent more extensive damage to tires and other suspension components down the line. As the data shows, an ounce of prevention in the form of correct installation and alignment saves significant money on repairs and tire replacements.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Success Stories

"I also fixed the missing bushing for the shift cable under the car with using a cut to size premium fuel hose fit was a little tight and snug 😁. Driving it 20 miles to work and back for a week been great." — vtinoc (source)

"If it's not terrible, then you can use camber bolts...but this sounds ****ed up lol. I was lowered at least 2" and camber bolts off ebay worked just dandy." — Chippewaking98 (source)

"I was lowered at least 2" and camber bolts off ebay worked just dandy. Okay ill be getting new ones then thanks." — Chippewaking98 (source)

Owner Experiences

"So far I have replaced my wheel bearings and my struts and two different mechanics cant find any issues with any bushings or seals. They both said everything seems to be on tight and in good working order." — Qawmuh (source)

"Now if you drop it much further than yes I agree the dynamics of the suspension will be changed enough to require shorter struts/shocks. I'll wait to replace my struts/shocks when they warrant replacement, if they die earlier great, I can tell you this the car handles a lot better than stock." — MaxLoverAz (source)

"Reducing the travel 1.3" (Eibach Pro) isn't going to reduce the life span of the shocks/struts as much that you think it will. Now if you drop it much further than yes I agree the dynamics of the suspension will be changed enough to require shorter struts/shocks." — MaxLoverAz (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "The rears are easy since the strut and spring assembly are separate from one another. The fronts are a bit harder but what I recommend is removing the front struts, go to a shop with a spring compressor, make them install the Eibachs then pay, then install back yourself." — Jbling700 (source)

💡 "My advise to anyone planning on doing this mod is this. Make sure you have the right tools, jack, jack stand, power tool, impact tool, a shop grade coil/spring compressor, the autozone rented tool is no good IMO." — wolexity21 (source)

💡 "I recommend placing the car on jack stands and doing the rears first. The rears are easy since the strut and spring assembly are separate from one another." — Jbling700 (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Eibach lowering Springs: Do you need to change shocks and struts with them? So I just got my Eibach lower springs and have check around several shops and they are quoting me prices from $250 to up to $600 to have them replaced." — bmanbmv (source)

"Most passengers in the car do not notice it, but I do. My install guys did the Eibach Pro kit for $200 and during that time he recommend to change out the shocks/struts also." — bmanbmv (source)

"My install guys did the Eibach Pro kit for $200 and during that time he recommend to change out the shocks/struts also. He said it would only be about $30 more to change them at the same time, but $200 if I wanted to replace them later." — bmanbmv (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace all four struts? A: For an experienced DIYer with the right tools, replacing all four struts using pre-assembled units can take a full day (6-8 hours). A professional shop with a lift and power tools can typically complete the job in 3-4 hours of labor time. The rear struts are generally quicker than the fronts.

Q: Can I drive with a bad strut or popping noise? A: You can drive cautiously for a short distance to a repair shop, but it is not safe for extended driving. A failed strut severely compromises handling, braking stability, and tire contact with the road, especially in emergency maneuvers. A popping noise indicates a loose component that could potentially fail completely, leading to a loss of control.

Q: Is strut failure a common issue on the Maxima? A: Based on the owner data spanning generations, struts are a wear item that will eventually need replacement on any vehicle, typically between 80,000 and 100,000 miles. The 2020 Maxima is not known for a specific, widespread strut defect. However, issues commonly arise from modifications like lowering springs, which accelerate wear and create alignment challenges if not installed correctly.

Q: Do I need to replace my struts if I install lowering springs? A: It is highly recommended, but not always immediately mandatory. The stock struts are valved for the stock spring rate and ride height. Lowering springs change both. As owner MaxLoverAz concluded: "Now if you drop it much further than yes I agree the dynamics of the suspension will be changed enough to require shorter struts/shocks. I'll wait to replace my struts/shocks when they warrant replacement..." The consensus is that performance and longevity are improved with matched struts, and it is most cost-effective to do them together if your existing struts have high mileage.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for strut replacement? A: This is an advanced DIY job. If you are mechanically confident, have a complete toolset (especially a torque wrench and safe jack stands), and are using pre-assembled strut units, it is achievable. However, due to the critical safety role of struts and the absolute necessity of a final professional alignment, many owners choose to have the entire job done by a qualified mechanic. The risks of improper installation are high.

Q: What’s the first thing to check if I hear a popping sound over bumps? A: After ensuring your lug nuts are properly torqued, the most likely suspects are the strut mount bearing (at the top of the strut assembly) or a worn sway bar end link. These components allow for movement and rotation, and when their bushings or bearings wear out, they create popping or clunking sounds as they shift under load. A visual inspection for torn rubber bushings or play in these components is the best first step.