How to Replace Worn Struts on Your 2020 Nissan Maxima

How to Fix Struts Replacement

Replacing the struts on your 2020 Nissan Maxima is a significant maintenance task that can dramatically improve ride quality and handling. Owners typically undertake this job to address a worn-out, uncomfortable ride or as part of a suspension upgrade, such as installing lowering springs. The process requires careful preparation and the right tools, especially when dealing with the high-tension springs. As one owner who completed the job shared a crucial tip: "Biggest tip I could offer anyone is get 2 sets of strut spring compressors (total of 4 'clamps'). I started with a set from autozone and it just wasn't compressing the stock springs effectively enough." — ag90fox

Symptoms

The most common symptom prompting strut replacement is a degraded ride quality characterized by excessive bumpiness. You might feel every small imperfection in the road, and the car may bounce or float uncomfortably after hitting a bump instead of settling quickly. This is a clear sign the strut's damping ability is worn out.

Another frequent and concerning symptom is the presence of clunking noises from the front or rear suspension. Owners report hearing distinct clanks or clunks when going over bumps, turning, or during normal driving. This noise often indicates that the strut is physically failing—the internal components may be loose or damaged, allowing metal-to-metal contact within the strut assembly or against other suspension parts.

Sometimes, the issue is less about failure and more about performance. Enthusiast owners install lowering springs to improve handling and aesthetics. However, this modification changes suspension dynamics. As one owner noted, while a moderate drop might be okay, "Now if you drop it much further than yes I agree the dynamics of the suspension will be changed enough to require shorter struts/shocks." — MaxLoverAz. The symptom here isn't failure but suboptimal performance, where the stock struts can't properly control the shorter, stiffer springs, leading to a harsh or bouncy ride.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause for strut replacement on this vehicle, based on owner experiences, is the combination of normal wear over time and aftermarket suspension modifications. While mileage and age will eventually wear out any strut, a significant catalyst discussed by owners is the installation of lowering springs. The stock struts are valved and designed for the stock spring height and rate. When you lower the vehicle, you reduce suspension travel and alter the operating range of the strut. This can accelerate wear dramatically. One owner highlighted the economic logic, quoting their installer: "He said it would only be about $30 more to change them at the same time, but $200 if I wanted to replace them later." — bmanbmv. This advice stems from the understanding that the old struts, already fatigued, will fail quickly under the new demands of lowering springs, making a concurrent replacement the most sensible choice.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing bad struts involves a combination of sensory observation and physical tests. Start with the "bounce test." Push down firmly on each corner of the car and release. A good strut will allow the car to bounce back and settle immediately after one small rebound. If it continues to bounce two or three times, that strut is likely worn. Listen carefully during normal driving, especially over known rough patches or speed bumps. A pronounced clunk or knock is a telltale sign of internal failure.

Visually inspect the strut assembly. Look for obvious signs of damage, dents, or heavy corrosion on the strut body. Check for oily residue leaking from the strut shaft seal; this hydraulic fluid leak means the strut has lost its damping fluid and pressure. Also, inspect the strut mount (the top hat) for cracks or wear in the rubber bushing. If you've recently installed lowering springs and are experiencing a harsh, poorly controlled ride, the diagnosis is often that the stock struts are incompatible with the new spring setup, not that they are necessarily "broken" in the traditional sense.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing struts is a serious DIY job that requires good mechanical skill, proper tools, and a focus on safety due to the high-energy compressed springs.

1. Safety First & Preparation: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and use wheel chocks. Safely lift and support the vehicle using jack stands on designated frame points—never rely solely on a jack. Remove the wheel from the corner you are working on.

2. Remove the Old Strut Assembly: You'll typically need to disconnect the sway bar end link, brake line bracket, and the lower strut bolt that connects to the steering knuckle. Inside the engine bay (for front struts) or trunk/ rear shelf (for rear struts), remove the plastic covers and unbolt the two or three nuts holding the top of the strut mount to the vehicle body.

3. Compress the Spring (CRITICAL STEP): This is the most dangerous part. Using two sets of spring compressors (four clamps total) is highly recommended, as per owner advice. Thread the compressors evenly onto the spring, alternating sides as you tighten to compress the spring slowly and uniformly until all tension is relieved from the top mount. As one owner shared: "First time I ever replaced struts so it took me probably twice as long... Biggest tip I could offer anyone is get 2 sets of strut spring compressors." — ag90fox

4. Disassemble the Strut Assembly: With the spring safely compressed, use an impact wrench or a long breaker bar to hold the central strut shaft nut while you loosen it. Carefully remove the top mount, bumper, and spring from the old strut.

5. Assemble the New Strut: Transfer any necessary components (like the spring seat) to the new strut, then reverse the disassembly process. Place the new strut into the spring, install the top mount, and hand-tighten the new center nut. Ensure the spring is correctly seated in its upper and lower perches before you begin to slowly and carefully release the spring compressors.

6. Install the New Assembly: Lift the complete strut assembly back into position. Thread the top mount bolts by hand first, then tighten to specification. Connect the lower strut bolt to the knuckle and reattach the sway bar link and brake line bracket. Reinstall the wheel.

7. Final Steps: Repeat for other struts as needed. Once all are installed, lower the vehicle. A professional alignment is absolutely mandatory after any strut replacement to reset toe and camber settings. Owners confirm its importance: "I just returned from my 'installation lap/test drive' and even without an alignment yet, the difference was night and day." — LtLeary

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Complete Strut Assembly (Quick-Strut): This includes the strut, spring, and mount pre-assembled. Highly recommended for DIYers to avoid spring compression. Check brands like Monroe, KYB, or OEM Nissan.
• Strut Mount Kit: If buying struts and springs separately, you may need new mounts and bearings.
• Lowering Springs (Optional): Eibach Pro-Kit is a popular choice mentioned by owners.

Tools:

• Floor Jack and Jack Stands (x4)
• Lug Wrench / Impact Gun
• Basic Socket and Wrench Set
• Two Sets of Strut Spring Compressors (4 clamps total) - CRITICAL
• Torque Wrench
• Pry Bar (for separating knuckle from strut)
• Penetrating Oil (like PB Blaster)

Real Owner Costs

Costs vary widely based on the choice between DIY, shop labor, and part selection.

DIY with Aftermarket Parts: One owner sourced their parts online: "All were ordered from RockAuto and even with the next day delivery about $450." — LtLeary. This cost likely covered front strut assemblies. Adding rear assemblies could bring total part costs to $700-$900 for all four corners.

Professional Installation with Upgrades: For those installing lowering springs, shop quotes for labor alone were reported. "So I just got my Eibach lower springs and have check around several shops and they are quoting me prices from $250 to up to $600 to have them replaced." — bmanbmv. Another owner found a better deal: "My install guys did the Eibach Pro kit for $200." — bmanbmv. This highlights the importance of shopping around. If you have the shop supply and install performance struts and springs, total costs can easily exceed $1,500.

The "While You're In There" Savings: The data shows a clear chance to save money by bundling work. If you're paying for spring installation labor ($200-$600), adding new struts at the same time might only be an additional $30-$100 in labor, versus a separate $200+ job later.

Prevention

Preventing premature strut failure starts with conscientious driving. Avoid potholes and harsh impacts whenever possible. When carrying heavy loads, do so evenly and understand that sustained heavy weight accelerates wear. If you modify your suspension with lowering springs, proactively plan for strut replacement. Installing matched, shorter-stroke struts designed for lowering springs at the same time is the best prevention against a failed, uncomfortable ride a year later. Regularly listen and feel for changes in ride quality; addressing a minor issue early can prevent collateral damage to other suspension components like mounts and ball joints.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Owner Experiences

"Makes no sense to me. While that would sound senseless to most, the lifespan of those perfectly new shocks/struts are dramatically decreased and you will end up having to replace them in a year or two anyway and have to pay someone to install those as well (unless you are a DIYer)." — TigerGenetics (source)

"Reducing the travel 1.3" (Eibach Pro) isn't going to reduce the life span of the shocks/struts as much that you think it will. Now if you drop it much further than yes I agree the dynamics of the suspension will be changed enough to require shorter struts/shocks." — MaxLoverAz (source)

"Now if you drop it much further than yes I agree the dynamics of the suspension will be changed enough to require shorter struts/shocks. I'll wait to replace my struts/shocks when they warrant replacement, if they die earlier great, I can tell you this the car handles a lot better than stock." — MaxLoverAz (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "Biggest tip I could offer anyone is get 2 sets of strut spring compressors (total of 4 "clamps"). I started with a set from autozone and it just wasn't compressing the stock springs effectively enough." — ag90fox (source)

💡 "First time I ever replaced struts so it took me probably twice as long (sorry no pics). Biggest tip I could offer anyone is get 2 sets of strut spring compressors (total of 4 "clamps")." — ag90fox (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Eibach lowering Springs: Do you need to change shocks and struts with them? So I just got my Eibach lower springs and have check around several shops and they are quoting me prices from $250 to up to $600 to have them replaced." — bmanbmv (source)

"Most passengers in the car do not notice it, but I do. My install guys did the Eibach Pro kit for $200 and during that time he recommend to change out the shocks/struts also." — bmanbmv (source)

"My install guys did the Eibach Pro kit for $200 and during that time he recommend to change out the shocks/struts also. He said it would only be about $30 more to change them at the same time, but $200 if I wanted to replace them later." — bmanbmv (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace struts myself? A: For a first-timer, budget a full day (6-8 hours) for all four corners, especially if you are compressing springs. Having a helper and the right tools (like two spring compressor sets) can cut this time significantly. An experienced DIYer might complete it in 3-4 hours.

Q: Can I drive with a clunking or very bouncy strut? A: You can, but you shouldn't for long. A failed strut severely compromises handling, stability, and braking performance, especially in emergency maneuvers. It also puts extra stress on other suspension and steering components, leading to more expensive repairs. As one owner pragmatically stated about worn parts: "I'd never tell anyone to drive on bald tires." — MadMax07SL. The same logic applies to critical safety components like struts.

Q: Do I need an alignment after replacing struts? A: Absolutely yes. Disturbing the strut-to-knuckle connection alters your camber and toe settings. Driving without an alignment will cause rapid, uneven tire wear and potentially poor handling. It's a non-negotiable final step.

Q: If I install lowering springs, do I have to change the struts immediately? A: Technically no, but it is highly recommended. The stock struts are not optimized for the reduced travel and different spring rates. As discussed by owners, this mismatch can lead to a poor ride and will dramatically shorten the life of your old struts. "Makes no sense to me... the lifespan of those perfectly new shocks/struts are dramatically decreased and you will end up having to replace them in a year or two anyway." — TigerGenetics. The modest extra labor cost to do it all at once makes it the smart financial and performance choice.

Q: What's the biggest mistake DIYers make during this job? A: Not respecting the spring compression process. Using inadequate, poorly rated, or just one set of compressors is extremely dangerous. A compressed spring stores immense energy. Always use two sets of compressors (four clamps), tighten them evenly and slowly, and keep body parts clear of the spring's potential path of travel.

Q: Should I replace struts in pairs? A: Yes, always. You should replace both front struts or both rear struts at the same time. This ensures balanced damping and handling characteristics across the axle. Replacing just one side will lead to an uneven, potentially unsafe ride.