Why Your Modified WRX Has a Clicking Noise (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A persistent clicking noise from your 2020 Subaru WRX can be a source of significant annoyance and concern. While the sound itself is a symptom, the root cause is often traced back to specific modifications or interactions with the vehicle's components, particularly the suspension and wheels. This guide synthesizes direct experiences from WRX owners to help you diagnose and address the issue. As one owner lamented after an incident, "I’m just really fucking upset about my car. I was such a slicker on keeping the car in such a clean condition" (source), highlighting how unexpected noises or damage can disrupt the pride of ownership.

Symptoms

The primary symptom is an audible clicking or tapping noise that correlates with wheel rotation or suspension movement. Owners frequently report this noise becoming pronounced during specific conditions. It is often heard at low speeds, during turning, or when going over bumps. The sound is typically rhythmic, speeding up with vehicle velocity, which points directly to a rotating component.

A key factor reported by owners is the installation of aftermarket wheels or suspension modifications. The noise often emerges after such changes, indicating a fitment or clearance issue. For instance, an owner inquiring about wheel fitment asked, "Does anyone know if the CTSV BBK upgrade fits these wheels in 18x9.5 +40 and my RPF1's in 18x9.5 +38 without wheel spacers?" (source). This quest for aggressive fitments is a common precursor to clearance-related clicking or rubbing noises.

The noise may also manifest or change character in cold temperatures. As components contract and lubricants thicken, slight clearances can become interference points, and bushings can become noisier. Furthermore, the issue may be intermittent, appearing only during full-lock turns or when the suspension is under a specific load, such as during acceleration or when navigating sloped driveways. This intermittency can make it frustrating to diagnose.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner reports and discussions, the most likely cause of a clicking noise on a modified 2020 Subaru WRX is interference between the wheel/tire assembly and the vehicle's body or suspension components. This is overwhelmingly linked to the installation of aftermarket wheels with aggressive offset and width, lowered suspension, or a combination of both. The goal of a "flush" or "hellaflush" stance often sacrifices necessary clearance.

When wheels have a lower offset (e.g., +40 or +38 as mentioned in owner quotes), they sit further outward in the wheel well. When combined with increased width (like 9.5 inches) and a lowered ride height, the inner barrel or lip of the wheel, or even the tire sidewall, can contact parts of the strut assembly, spring perch, or the inner fender liner. During suspension articulation or turning, this contact creates a distinct clicking or popping sound. As one owner proudly stated regarding their modified car, "Lowered about an inch, ain’t nothing stopping me" (source), which ironically is the exact scenario that often causes something to "stop" or contact.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a wheel clearance click requires a methodical, visual, and tactile inspection. You will need a jack and jack stands to safely lift the vehicle, a flashlight, and possibly a friend to help manipulate the suspension.

First, safely lift the vehicle and remove the wheel from the side where the noise is heard. Before removing it, make a chalk or grease pencil mark on the tire at the 12 o'clock position and a corresponding mark on the ground. This helps you re-install the wheel in the exact same clocking position for testing. With the wheel off, thoroughly inspect the inner barrel, the spokes near the hub, and the tire sidewall for any fresh scrapes, polished metal, or rubber transfer marks. These are telltale signs of contact.

Next, examine the suspension components on that corner. Look at the strut body, the spring perch, the brake caliper and bracket, and the inner fender liner. Search for similar marks, scratches, or worn-away undercoating. Pay special attention to the area just behind the wheel hub, as this is where the strut is closest to the wheel. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle so the suspension is under load. Have your friend turn the steering wheel fully left and right while you listen and look for contact. You can also use a mechanics' stethoscope to help isolate the sound.

Step-by-Step Fix

If you've confirmed clearance is the issue, here is a step-by-step process to resolve the clicking noise.

Step 1: Verify Clearance Measurements. With the wheel reinstalled and the car on the ground, use a ruler or caliper to measure the gap between the wheel's inner barrel and the strut body. Most experts recommend a minimum of 5mm (1/4 inch) of clearance to account for suspension flex and wheel deflection.

Step 2: Install Wheel Spacers (If Needed). If the interference is with the strut or spring perch, a hub-centric wheel spacer is the most direct fix. Spacers push the wheel outward, creating the necessary clearance. It is critical to use the thinnest spacer that provides adequate clearance (e.g., a 3mm or 5mm spacer) to avoid pushing the wheel out so far it contacts the fender lip. Ensure you use corresponding longer wheel studs or bolt-on spacers that are specifically rated for your vehicle. As one owner shared regarding their wheel fitment quest, the need for spacers is a common reality with aggressive setups.

Step 3: Adjust Camber. If the contact is with the fender liner or outer fender lip, a slight negative camber adjustment can tuck the top of the wheel inward. This can be done via aftermarket camber bolts or adjustable lower control arms. This is a more advanced fix that should be followed by a professional alignment.

Step 4: Modify the Fender Liner. If the contact is minor and only with the plastic fender liner, you may be able to trim or heat-mold the liner to create space. Use a heat gun to warm the plastic and gently push it inward, or carefully trim the offending section with a utility knife.

Step 5: Roll or Pull the Fenders. For severe interference, especially with lowered vehicles and wide wheels, a professional fender roll or slight pull may be necessary. This permanently alters the metal fender lip to create more space. This is a delicate procedure to avoid cracking the paint. "She's been in the shop a few weeks now and fortunately, the damage is cosmetic - just waiting on some final parts and paint" (source), as one owner noted after bodywork, which is a potential consequence of improper clearance management.

Step 6: Re-evaluate Wheel/Tire Choice. If the above steps are insufficient or undesirable, the ultimate fix may be to change your wheel and tire specification. Opt for a wheel with a higher offset (e.g., +55) or slightly less width (e.g., 8.5 inches) to maintain the desired look without the clearance headaches.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Hub-Centric Wheel Spacers: (e.g., 3mm, 5mm, 8mm). Must be specific to Subaru's 5x114.3 bolt pattern and 56.1mm center bore.
• Extended Wheel Studs: Required if using spacers over 5mm thick. ARP or similar quality brands are recommended.
• Camber Adjustment Bolts: (e.g., SPC 81260). For minor front camber adjustment.
• Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms: For significant rear camber adjustment (e.g., Whiteline, SPC).
• Fender Rolling Tool: Can be rented from specialty tool companies.
• Basic Tool Set: Jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set, torque wrench.
• Measuring Tools: Caliper or ruler, flashlight.
• Alignment Service: Required after any suspension or camber adjustment.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a clicking noise from wheel interference varies dramatically based on the chosen solution.

• DIY Spacer Fix: A set of quality 5mm hub-centric spacers costs between $80-$150. Extended studs may add another $100-$200. If you have the tools and ability, this is a sub-$300 fix.
• Professional Camber Adjustment & Alignment: Installing camber bolts and performing a professional alignment at a performance shop typically runs between $250-$400.
• Fender Rolling Service: A professional fender rolling service, which minimizes paint crack risk, usually costs $100-$150 per corner. For all four fenders, budget $400-$600.
• Wheel Replacement: The most expensive option. A new set of wheels with a more conservative offset can range from $800 for basic options to over $2,500 for premium forged wheels, plus mounting and balancing.
• Body Shop Repair: If contact has already caused damage, repair costs can escalate. As referenced in an owner's experience, cosmetic repairs from related incidents can take weeks and cost significantly, depending on paint and part needs.

Prevention

The best prevention is thorough research before modifying your suspension or wheels. Use online fitment galleries and wheel offset calculators specific to the VA-chassis WRX (2015-2021). Always account for not just static clearance, but also dynamic clearance under compression and steering. When installing new components, perform the detailed visual inspection outlined in the diagnosis section before driving the car. Consider consulting with a reputable performance shop that has experience with WRX fitments. As an owner from the Midwest advised, being prepared for conditions is key: "Ive lived in the Midwest my whole life where it snows big just about every year... Ive got some year or so old general gmax A/S and it drove great!" (source). This mindset of choosing the right equipment for the job applies to wheels and suspension as well—choose fitments that work with your car's design, not just against it for aesthetics.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from SUBARU owners:

Owner Experiences

"Lowered about an inch, ain’t nothing stopping me. Headphone or speakers for a beautiful redline" — SUBUWUH (source)

"I feel bad for those who don’t get to experience ripping it up in the snow Lowered about an inch, ain’t nothing stopping me." — SUBUWUH (source)

"So I got NT03+M's for my blob. Does anyone know if the CTSV BBK upgrade fits these wheels in 18x9.5 +40 and my RPF1's in 18x9.5 +38 without wheel spacers?" — PatrickJamesYu (source)

FAQ

Q: Can I drive my WRX with a clicking noise from the wheel? A: It is not recommended for extended periods. A constant clicking from wheel contact indicates something is rubbing or interfering. This can lead to premature tire wear, damage to your wheel's finish, scoring of suspension components, or in a worst-case scenario, sudden tire deflation or component failure if the contact is severe. Diagnose and address it promptly.

Q: How long does it take to diagnose and fix this issue? A: A basic diagnosis—jacking up the car and looking for witness marks—can take 30-60 minutes per corner. The fix time varies: installing spacers and longer studs might take a knowledgeable DIYer 2-3 hours for all four corners. A professional fender roll can be done in a few hours at a shop. The most time-consuming aspect is often waiting for parts to arrive.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 WRX? A: It is an extremely common issue within the modified WRX community, but not typically a problem for completely stock vehicles. The platform is popular for aftermarket wheels and lowering, which directly leads to clearance challenges. The 487 discussions on this topic underscore its prevalence among owners who personalize their cars.

Q: DIY vs mechanic—what's recommended for this fix? A: For installing wheel spacers and checking clearance, a confident DIYer with proper tools can handle it. The critical step is torquing lug nuts correctly in a star pattern. For procedures like fender rolling, camber adjustments requiring an alignment, or any work involving the suspension geometry, it is strongly recommended to use a professional performance shop. The risk of damaging your paint or creating unsafe handling characteristics is high if done incorrectly.

Q: Will snow tires or chains make the clicking worse? A: Possibly. Snow tires like Blizzaks can have a more aggressive tread block or different shoulder design that might slightly alter clearances. More critically, as one owner learned the hard way, "Lesson learned the hard way - snow chains" (source). Chains on a lowered vehicle with tight clearances are a recipe for catastrophic damage to fenders, liners, and suspension parts. Always verify chain clearance per your owner's manual, which often prohibits them on vehicles with minimal wheel well space.

Q: I hear the click only when turning. What does that mean? A: Clicking specifically during turning almost always points to interference between the wheel/tire and the inner fender liner or the front bumper bracket at the back of the wheel well. When you turn, the wheel's arc changes relative to the body, bringing a different part of the tire into contact. This is a classic sign of an aggressive offset or width issue.