How to Fix 2020 Toyota Tacoma Strut Clunking and Body Roll

How to Fix Struts Issue

If you're experiencing handling or noise issues with your 2020 Toyota Tacoma, the front struts are a likely culprit. Many owners report that the factory-installed struts, particularly the "3rd gen" units, can lead to a degraded ride quality, unwanted noises, and excessive body movement. Upgrading or replacing these components is a common and effective modification. As one owner shared after their upgrade: "Super excited to get rid of the immovable N3 struts." (source)

Symptoms

Owners of the 2020 Tacoma report several distinct symptoms pointing to strut-related problems. The most common complaint is a clunking or knocking sound, especially during low-speed maneuvers like turning into a driveway or parking. This noise is often a direct indicator of worn strut mounts, failing internal valving, or other components in the strut assembly becoming loose or damaged.

Another frequent symptom is poor handling dynamics, specifically excessive body roll. This manifests as a noticeable lean or sway when changing lanes at highway speeds or taking turns. The vehicle feels less planted and stable, which can be a safety concern and diminishes the confident driving feel expected from a truck. As one owner described their truck's behavior: "It leans a bit changing lanes at highway speeds and taking turns." (source)

Beyond noises and handling, some owners encounter issues with the struts themselves being physically difficult to service due to corrosion. This isn't a driving symptom per se, but a major hurdle during repair. Severe rust can bind the strut assembly within its mounting points, making removal a significant challenge. Additionally, while not a mechanical failure of the suspension struts, many owners express frustration with the lack of hood struts (gas props), noting the inconvenience of a manual prop rod.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of these symptoms, based on widespread owner reports, is the performance and durability limitations of the factory-installed 3rd generation Tacoma struts. Owners frequently refer to them as "immovable" or imply they are the root of handling complaints. These OEM struts may wear out prematurely, lose their damping effectiveness, or simply not provide the level of control desired, especially if the truck is used for anything beyond light-duty commuting. The resulting issues—clunking from worn internal components or mounts, and body roll from insufficient damping—directly lead owners to seek aftermarket replacements. The problem is compounded in regions where road salt is used, as corrosion can seize the strut assembly in place, but the core performance issue is attributed to the stock components.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing strut issues on your truck involves a combination of listening, feeling, and a visual inspection. You don't need many specialized tools for the initial diagnosis, just a keen ear and attention to how the truck drives.

Start with a simple driving test. Find an empty parking lot and perform slow, full-lock turns in both directions. Listen carefully for a clunking or knocking sound, particularly as the steering wheel reaches its limits. Next, take the truck on a route with gentle curves or on-ramps. Pay close attention to how much the truck body leans or rolls during the turn. Excessive lean where the truck feels like it's tipping over is a key indicator of weak strut damping. As one owner confirmed, "I had that same noise on my 3rd gen , after changing out the UCA's and struts it's gone I would hear it when turning and pulling into the driveway" (source).

For a static test, park on level ground and firmly press down on the front bumper at each corner. Push down and release quickly. A good strut will allow the truck to rebound and settle almost immediately. If the truck continues to bounce up and down several times after you release, the strut is likely worn out and no longer controlling the spring effectively. Finally, with the truck safely raised and supported on jack stands, perform a visual inspection. Look for obvious signs of physical damage, heavy fluid leaks from the strut body (indicating a blown seal), or severe corrosion around the strut mounting points at the knuckle and strut tower.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing the front struts is a common DIY project for Tacoma owners, but it requires careful preparation and the right tools. This guide assumes you are replacing the complete strut assembly (pre-assembled with a new spring).

1. Gather Tools and Parts: Ensure you have all parts and tools listed in the next section before starting. Safety is paramount. 2. Loosen Hardware: Safely lift the front of the truck and support it with jack stands under the frame. Remove the front wheels. Before disassembly, use a breaker bar to loosen (but do not remove) the large nut on the top of the strut mount under the hood and the two bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle. This is easier with the weight of the vehicle on the components. 3. Disconnect Sway Bar Link: Unbolt the sway bar end link from the lower control arm. This allows more droop for strut removal. 4. Remove Knuckle Bolts: Now remove the two bolts that clamp the strut to the steering knuckle. You may need to tap the knuckle with a hammer to separate it from the strut. Do not let the brake hose bear the weight of the knuckle; you can support it with a strap or wire. 5. Remove Top Mount Nut: From inside the engine bay, have a helper hold the strut shaft with an Allen key while you completely remove the top center nut. Be prepared for the strut to drop slightly. 6. Remove the Old Strut: You can now maneuver the entire strut assembly out from the wheel well. This is where corrosion can be a major issue. As one DIYer warned, "I did all the work myself. Luckily all the hardware came out easy but both struts were so rusted in that it took two people with 4ft prybars and an air hammer to knock them out" (source). Penetrating oil and patience are your friends. 7. Install New Strut: Carefully guide the new pre-assembled strut into place. Thread the top mount studs through the holes in the strut tower and start the center nut by hand. Then, align the bottom of the strut with the knuckle and insert the two bolts, tightening them finger-tight. 8. Final Tightening: With the truck still in the air, tighten the top center nut to the manufacturer's specification while holding the shaft. Then, torque the two lower knuckle bolts to spec. Reconnect the sway bar link. 9. Reinstall Wheel and Lower: Put the wheel back on, lower the truck to the ground, and then perform a final torque check on all critical fasteners with the vehicle's weight on its wheels. 10. Get an Alignment: This is a non-optional final step. Replacing struts, especially with lift components, will change your front-end geometry. A professional alignment is required for safe handling and proper tire wear.

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Front Strut Assemblies: Popular aftermarket choices mentioned by owners include Bilstein 6112, Bilstein 5160 (for rear), and Dobinsons MRA-A220. You will need two.
• Hood Struts (Optional): If adding gas props for the hood, kits are available from various brands (e.g., Redline Tuning). Some kits may require a rivet gun for installation.

Tools:

• Floor Jack and Jack Stands (x4)
• Lug Wrench / Impact Gun
• Socket Set (Metric, including deep sockets)
• Wrench Set
• Breaker Bar
• Torque Wrench
• Allen Key Set (to hold strut shaft)
• Pry Bar(s)
• Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
• Hammer
• Highly Recommended for Rusty Trucks: Air Hammer (needle scaler) and extra-long pry bars.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to address strut issues varies dramatically between DIY and professional installation, and depends heavily on the parts chosen.

DIY Cost Examples:

• Budget Lift/Replacement: An owner performing a 2" lift with Bilstein 6112 struts up front and 5160 shocks in the rear represents a mid-range DIY cost. The Bilstein 6112 kit typically costs between $800-$1,000 for the pair. Combined with other components, a full quality lift can be a $1,500-$2,000 DIY project in parts alone.
• High-Performance Deal: One owner scored a high-end set of adjustable Dobinsons MRA struts: "Picked up some dobinson MRA-A220s for an absolute steal Almost $1700 retail and got the set for $700 new in the box." (source). This shows retail for premium parts can approach $1,700, but deals can be found.
• Hood Struts: Adding hood struts is a low-cost mod, with kits ranging from $50 to $150.

Professional Shop Costs: Having a shop perform the work adds significant labor expense. For a standard strut replacement (non-lift), expect 3-4 hours of labor at shop rates ($100-$150/hour), adding $300-$600 to the part cost. Installing a complete lift kit with new upper control arms and an alignment is a more involved job, often costing $800-$1,500 in labor at a specialty off-road shop. Therefore, a full professional lift installation with quality parts can easily exceed $3,000.

Prevention

While the factory struts will eventually wear, you can prolong the life of any strut—OEM or aftermarket—with mindful driving and maintenance. Avoid harsh impacts with potholes, curbs, and speed bumps whenever possible. When driving off-road, choose your lines carefully to minimize hard, bottom-out hits on the suspension. Regularly wash the undercarriage, especially in winter, to remove road salt and grime that accelerates corrosion on the strut bodies and mounting hardware. During routine maintenance like tire rotations, take a moment to visually inspect the struts for any signs of fluid leakage or damage. Finally, if you install new struts yourself, apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the mating surfaces of the strut knuckle and the mounting bolts to make any future service much easier.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from TOYOTA owners:

Owner Experiences

"Friday she got her 265/65r16 replaced with 275/70r17 and Saturday and Sunday I replaced the front struts with Bilstien 6112s set for 2" lift. The back already had 5160 installed last weekend." — Free_Performer6789 (source)

"New tires and front lifted Friday she got her 265/65r16 replaced with 275/70r17 and Saturday and Sunday I replaced the front struts with Bilstien 6112s set for 2" lift." — Free_Performer6789 (source)

"Anyway, which ones did you guys install in yours? I don’t have a rivet gun and can’t think of another project I’d use it for besides this and I’ve noticed a few brands require a rivet gun." — zalleyzal (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Picked up some dobinson MRA-A220s for an absolute steal Almost $1700 retail and got the set for $700 new in the box." — JETTA_TDI_GUY (source)

"Almost $1700 retail and got the set for $700 new in the box. Super excited to get rid of the immovable N3 struts." — JETTA_TDI_GUY (source)

"I had to replace the lock on it, struts, bondo a few places and then paint it but for $1000 all in, I’d probably do it again. Only reason I would go another direction is if I found a more put together one for the same price." — dickbuttgeneral (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace front struts on a Tacoma? A: For an experienced DIYer with all tools ready and no severe rust, plan for a full day (6-8 hours) to replace both front struts safely, including time for breaks and troubleshooting. If you encounter heavy corrosion, as many do, it could take significantly longer. A professional shop will typically book 3-4 hours for the job.

Q: Can I drive with a clunking strut? A: You can drive cautiously for a short time, but you should address it promptly. A clunking noise indicates a loose or worn component, which can lead to unpredictable handling, accelerated wear on other parts (like tires and ball joints), and in a worst-case scenario, could lead to component failure. It's not an immediate "stranded on the side of the road" issue, but it is a safety and wear concern.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Tacoma? A: Based on owner discussions, dissatisfaction with the performance and durability of the factory 3rd gen struts is very common. Many owners view replacing them with aftermarket units not just as a repair, but as a necessary upgrade to achieve the ride quality and handling they expect from their truck. The lack of hood struts is also a nearly universal point of annoyance.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what’s recommended for strut replacement? A: This is a classic intermediate-level DIY job. If you are mechanically inclined, have a good set of tools (especially a torque wrench), and a safe place to work, it is very achievable and can save you over $500 in labor. However, if your truck shows significant rust, you lack the necessary tools (like an impact gun or air hammer), or you are not comfortable with suspension work that affects steering and safety, paying a professional is the wise choice. Always get an alignment afterward, regardless of who does the install.

Q: Do I need a special tool to install hood struts? A: It depends on the kit. Some hood strut kits use existing bolt holes and require only basic hand tools. Others may require drilling and riveting. As one owner asked when researching options: "I don’t have a rivet gun and can’t think of another project I’d use it for besides this and I’ve noticed a few brands require a rivet gun." (source). Check the installation requirements of the specific kit before purchasing.

Q: Will replacing my struts improve ride quality? A: Absolutely. This is the primary reason owners make the swap. Replacing worn OEM struts will restore control and damping. Upgrading to a quality aftermarket strut like Bilstein or Dobinsons, as owners have done, often provides a significant improvement over even new factory units, offering better control over bumps, reduced body roll, and a more confident, planted feel on and off-road.