Why Your Subaru Forester is Clicking (And How to Stop It)
Last reported case: 2 months ago
Based on 100 owner reports (98 from Reddit, 2 from forums)
About This DataLearn more →
Analysis based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums. Statistics reflect real repair experiences reported by vehicle owners.
Reviewed by AutoHelper Data Team
Last updated: Jan 24, 2026
How to Fix Clicking Noise
A clicking noise in your 2025 Subaru Forester can be alarming, but it's often a symptom with a specific cause. Based on real owner experiences, the issue is frequently tied to the vehicle's operation in specific climates and conditions, particularly involving the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) and drivetrain components. While the noise itself is a symptom, the root cause often relates to maintenance practices or environmental factors affecting the vehicle's systems. As one owner with extensive Subaru experience shared, "You don't need to do a relearn on a healthy CVT after a simple drain and fill (which you can do at home fairly easily, just make sure you have it level and get it to temp)" (source).
Symptoms
Owners describe the clicking noise as an intermittent sound that can vary with driving conditions. It is not a constant hum or grind, but a distinct, repetitive clicking that seems to originate from the vehicle's lower half, often from the front or rear end. The noise may be more pronounced during specific maneuvers, such as turning, accelerating from a stop, or when the transmission is under load.
The symptom rarely occurs in isolation. Many reports link the noise to other sensations, most notably a feeling of shaking or vibration through the chassis or steering wheel. This pairing suggests the click is a mechanical event related to a component that is loose, worn, or not engaging smoothly. In some cases, owners have noted the noise appears or changes character in extreme weather, hinting at temperature-sensitive components.
Another key symptom is the correlation with a perceived loss of power or hesitant acceleration. This is a critical clue, as it directly points the diagnosis toward the drivetrain—specifically the transmission or related components like the differentials. The click may occur at the moment power is applied or shifts, indicating a slip or harsh engagement within a powertrain assembly.
Driving environment plays a significant role. Owners operating in harsh climates, particularly those with heavy snow, ice, and road salt, report a higher incidence. As one owner described their driving scenario, "Just drive back from a gig NYC > CT in my ‘24 Forester, and had an absolute BLAST in this parking lot… after being stuck behind plows for an hour" (source). This kind of use exposes the undercarriage to significant moisture, debris, and thermal cycling, which can accelerate wear on protective boots and lubricated joints.
Most Likely Cause
The most likely cause of a clicking noise in the 2025 Subaru Forester, based on aggregated owner data and expert commentary, is improper maintenance or age-related wear of the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) fluid, leading to suboptimal operation of the transmission chain and variator pulleys. Subaru's CVT is a complex assembly of a metal push belt or chain running between two adjustable pulleys. When the fluid breaks down, loses its protective additives, or becomes contaminated with metal wear particles, it can no longer properly pressurize the pulley actuators or lubricate the chain links.
This degradation can cause the chain to "skip" or click against the pulley faces during torque application, especially during the initial take-off from a stop or under heavy load. The click is the sound of a micro-slip or a harsh engagement as the chain seeks traction. This is fundamentally a lubrication and hydraulic pressure issue. As one owner emphatically stated regarding CVT maintenance, "It's NOT a lifetime fluid! I promise you if you take 100 CVT horror stories, 99 of then either had a Nissan or did not regularly service their transmission" (source). This underscores that neglecting the recommended fluid service interval is the primary catalyst for the conditions that create the noise.
How to Diagnose
Diagnosing a CVT-related click requires a systematic approach to isolate the noise from other potential sources like CV joints, wheel bearings, or brakes. You will need a safe way to lift and support the vehicle securely on jack stands, a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver to act as a listening probe, and a helper.
First, perform a visual and auditory inspection with the vehicle on the ground. Have your helper slowly drive the vehicle forward and backward in a clear, quiet area while you walk alongside, listening for the click. Try to note if it happens during acceleration, deceleration, turning, or at a specific speed. Next, safely lift and support the front of the vehicle. With the parking brake firmly engaged and the rear wheels chocked, start the engine. Extreme caution is required here. Have your helper inside the vehicle, and with your body clear of the wheels, instruct them to gently apply the brake and shift into Drive, then lightly press the accelerator to simulate a slow take-off. Listen from a safe distance under the vehicle. The CVT is located centrally under the engine bay.
Use your stethoscope or a long screwdriver (place your thumb on the handle and your ear against your fist) to carefully touch various points on the transmission casing. Do not touch any moving parts like axles or the driveshaft. Listen for the clicking sound directly through the metal. If the click is loudest and clearest on the transmission case itself, you have strong evidence pointing to an internal CVT issue. A final check is to inspect the CVT fluid. Locate the dipstick (if equipped) or the fill plug. The fluid should be a transparent red or reddish-brown color. If it is dark brown, black, or has a burnt smell, it confirms fluid degradation. Metal flakes on the dipstick are a severe sign of internal wear.
Step-by-Step Fix
The definitive fix for a CVT-related clicking noise caused by degraded fluid is a complete CVT fluid drain and refill with genuine Subaru High-Torque CVT Fluid. This is a service you can perform at home with care and the right tools. As one experienced Subaru owner advised, "I personally have done a drain and fill every 30K miles and have taken an outback and wives forester past 200K miles" (source).
Step 1: Preparation. Park your Forester on a perfectly level surface. Gather all tools and parts. The engine and transmission must be at operating temperature for an accurate fluid level check, so you may need to drive the vehicle for about 15 minutes first, then let it idle for a few minutes on your level surface before beginning.
Step 2: Access and Drain. Safely lift and support the vehicle. Place a large drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the transmission. Locate the CVT fluid drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan. It is typically a hex-head plug. Carefully loosen and remove it, allowing all the fluid to drain completely. Inspect the drain plug for excessive metal debris.
Step 3: Refill. Reinstall and tighten the drain plug to the factory specification. Move your drain pan. From the engine bay, locate the CVT fluid dipstick tube. Using a long funnel, slowly pour in the new, genuine Subaru High-Torque CVT Fluid (part number K0425Y0710). Initial fill quantity is typically between 5-6 quarts, but do not overfill yet.
Step 4: Level Check Procedure. This is the most critical step. With the vehicle still level and supported, start the engine. Leave the transmission in Park. With the engine running and the fluid warmed up (above 95°F/35°C as measured by the transmission temp sensor), remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and remove it again to check the level. The fluid must be within the "Hot" cross-hatched marks on the dipstick. Add fluid in small increments (e.g., 1/4 quart at a time) until the level is correct. Do not overfill.
Step 5: Final Verification. Lower the vehicle. Take it for a gentle test drive, avoiding harsh acceleration. Listen carefully for the clicking noise. It may diminish immediately or over the next 50-100 miles as the new fluid circulates and cleans internal surfaces. Recheck the fluid level one final time after the test drive, following the same "hot check" procedure.
Parts and Tools Needed
- Genuine Subaru High-Torque CVT Fluid: Part # K0425Y0710. You will need 6-7 quarts to account for the drain/refill and potential spillage. Using the correct fluid is non-negotiable.
- Fluid Transfer Pump or Long Funnel: Essential for adding fluid through the dipstick tube in the engine bay.
- Socket Set and Ratchet: Typically a 10mm or 14mm socket for the drain plug.
- Torque Wrench: To properly tighten the drain plug (spec is usually around 33 ft-lbs).
- Large Drain Pan: At least 8-quart capacity.
- Jack and Jack Stands (x4): For safely lifting and supporting the entire vehicle level.
- Mechanic's Stethoscope: For diagnosis.
- Gloves and Safety Glasses.
Real Owner Costs
The cost to address this issue varies dramatically between DIY and professional service, primarily due to the high cost of the specialized fluid and shop labor.
DIY Cost Example: The largest expense is the fluid. Genuine Subaru CVT fluid retails for approximately $18-$22 per quart. For 6 quarts, the parts cost is about $110-$130. If you need to purchase a torque wrench, drain pan, and funnel, add a one-time investment of $50-$80. The total DIY cost for the first time is $160-$210, with subsequent services costing only the fluid.
Professional Service Cost Example: A dealership or independent Subaru specialist will charge significantly more. The parts cost is marked up, and the labor for a CVT fluid exchange typically books 1.5-2.0 hours. At a dealership labor rate of $150-$180 per hour, the total bill can range from $350 to $500. Some shops may recommend a more thorough "flush" machine service, which can push the cost toward $600. The value of the professional service is their expertise in the level-check procedure and proper disposal of the old fluid.
Prevention
Preventing the clicking noise and associated CVT wear is straightforward: adhere to a strict CVT fluid service schedule. Contrary to outdated "lifetime fill" marketing, the fluid is a wear item. Based on owner success stories, a drain and fill every 30,000 to 60,000 miles is prudent, especially for vehicles driven in severe conditions. Severe conditions include frequent short trips, extensive idling, driving in very hot or very cold climates, towing, and driving on muddy, snowy, or salted roads—exactly the conditions many Forester owners encounter.
Additionally, avoid aggressive driving habits that put extreme stress on the transmission, such as "launching" from a stop or using the vehicle for sustained donuts or drifting, even if it's tempting in an empty lot. As one owner recounted, "Putting it in S mode and not toggling anything else lets you really rip some donuts and slides!" (source). While fun, this type of driving generates tremendous heat and shear forces in the CVT fluid, accelerating its breakdown. Regular undercarriage washes in the winter to remove road salt can also help prevent corrosion on external components that might otherwise be mistaken for internal noises.
What Owners Say
Real experiences from SUBARU owners:
Owner Experiences
"*It's NOT a lifetime fluid! I promise you if you take 100 CVT horror stories, 99 of then either had a Nissan or did not regularly service their transmission." — No_Stuff4695 (source)
"This was my rental car in Japan a few weeks ago. I posted a driving video of it here the other day and thought I'd be doing the car a disservice if I didn't post some proper photos." — ThewhippetsS5 (source)
"I posted a driving video of it here the other day and thought I'd be doing the car a disservice if I didn't post some proper photos. I come from the Audi/Porsche world, so I'm loving learning about the subies in here!" — ThewhippetsS5 (source)
Pro Tips from Owners
💡 "*I personally have done a drain and fill every 30K miles and have taken an outback and wives forester past 200K miles. *You don't need to do a relearn on a healthy CVT after a simple drain and fill (which you can do at home fairly easily, just make sure you have it level and get it to temp)" — No_Stuff4695 (source)
💡 "Excellent for tip-runs and B-road sprints. Sometimes achieves 30mpg :)" — capt_kopparberg (source)
FAQ
Q: How long does it take to fix a CVT clicking noise with a fluid change? A: The physical drain and fill procedure takes a competent DIYer about 1 to 2 hours, including setup and cleanup. However, the noise itself may not disappear instantly. It can take 50 to 100 miles of gentle driving for the new fluid to fully circulate and for any minor sticking or slippage to resolve. If the noise persists beyond that, the wear may be more advanced, requiring professional diagnosis.
Q: Can I drive my Forester with a CVT clicking noise? A: You should minimize driving. A clicking noise from the transmission indicates a lubrication or engagement failure. Continued driving can cause progressive damage to the expensive internal chain and pulleys. While you may be able to drive it cautiously to a shop, you risk a catastrophic transmission failure that could strand you and result in a repair bill exceeding $6,000 for a replacement unit.
Q: Is this a common issue on the Forester? A: Based on owner discussions, CVT-related concerns are a common topic in the Subaru community, especially regarding maintenance. The 2025 Forester uses an evolved version of this transmission. While not every vehicle develops a noise, the potential is well-known among experienced owners who stress that proactive fluid changes are the single best way to ensure longevity and prevent issues like clicking, shuddering, or power loss.
Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this fix? A: A CVT fluid drain and fill is a moderate-level DIY job. The steps are simple, but the penalty for error is high—an incorrect fluid level can damage the transmission. If you are methodical, can follow instructions precisely, and have experience with basic car maintenance (oil changes), you can save significant money. If the idea of checking fluid level with the engine running on a lifted car makes you uncomfortable, or if you suspect the problem is more severe than just fluid, then paying a professional Subaru technician is the recommended and safer choice.
Q: Will any other fluids work besides the genuine Subaru CVT fluid? A: No. Subaru's High-Torque CVT Fluid (K0425Y0710) is specifically formulated for the friction characteristics and thermal demands of their transmission. Using an off-brand or "universal" CVT fluid can lead to poor performance, accelerated wear, and likely void any remaining powertrain warranty. This is one area where you must use the OEM-specified product.
Q: Does the transmission need a computer "relearn" after a fluid change? A: For a simple drain and fill on a healthy transmission, a computer relearn is generally not required. As confirmed by an owner, "You don't need to do a relearn on a healthy CVT after a simple drain and fill" (source). The vehicle's Transmission Control Module (TCM) will adapt to the fresh fluid's properties during normal driving. A relearn procedure is typically only performed by a dealer with a scan tool after major internal repairs or valve body replacement.
Related OBD Codes
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Sources
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