2020 Chevrolet Camaro Clicking Noise? Here's How to Diagnose & Fix

Warning Signs

Owners reporting a clicking noise describe a consistent, rhythmic sound that is often speed-dependent or occurs during specific vehicle operations. The most common reports include a clicking or ticking noise that increases in frequency with vehicle speed, strongly suggesting a rotating component issue. In many cases, the noise is audible from a specific corner of the vehicle, helping to localize the problem. Some owners note the sound is present only during acceleration, while others hear it constantly when moving. A less common but notable report links a single, loud "click" to the activation or deactivation of the airbag system, though this is distinct from the recurring mechanical clicks.

Diagnostic Process

Begin by attempting to isolate the noise. Drive the vehicle at low speed in a quiet, open area and listen carefully. Note if the clicking frequency increases with wheel speed (pointing to a wheel hub, CV joint, or brake component) or with engine RPM (pointing to an engine accessory or exhaust component).

For wheel-area noises, perform a visual inspection. Jack up the suspected corner, securely support the vehicle on jack stands, and spin the wheel by hand while listening for the click. Check for obvious issues like a loose wheel liner, a foreign object lodged in the tread (like a rock or nail), or a bent dust shield contacting the brake rotor. Grasp the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and try to rock it; excessive play indicates a failing wheel bearing. Next, grasp the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions; play here can indicate a tie rod issue. Inspect the CV axle boots for tears and grease slung around the area.

If the noise seems engine-related, use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver (placed carefully on components, away from moving belts) to listen to the valve cover, accessory pulleys, and the exhaust manifold area. A common finding with catless long tube headers is an exhaust leak at the header-to-head flange, which creates a distinct ticking sound that mimics a valvetrain noise, especially when cold.

Likely Culprits

Based on the analysis of owner reports, the causes fall into two primary categories:

1. Wheel/Rotating Assembly Issues: This is the most frequent source. Culprits include a pebble or debris stuck in the tire tread, a loose wheel center cap or hubcap, a failing wheel bearing, a worn CV joint (especially if clicking during turns), or a warped brake rotor rubbing against a stone guard or a loose brake pad clip.
2. Exhaust/Engine Bay Issues: For vehicles with modified exhausts, a leaking gasket at the catless long tube header connection is a prevalent cause of a ticking noise. A failing tensioner or idler pulley on the accessory drive belt can also produce a rhythmic click. Isolated reports link a single, loud click to the airbag system's self-test or a faulty clock spring, though this is not a continuous driving noise.
3. Interior/Trim Issues: A surprising number of resolved cases were traced to loose interior trim, a seat belt buckle tapping the B-pillar, or an unsecured child seat base. A loose upper seat belt anchor can also produce a click over bumps.

Proven Fixes

Ranked by frequency of success and cost:

1. Inspect and Remove Debris from Tires/Wheels (Most Common, Zero Cost): Thoroughly check all tire treads and the inside of the wheel wells for lodged stones, nails, or other debris. Remove the center cap and ensure it's not cracked and rattling. This simple fix resolves a significant portion of reported clicks.
2. Check and Secure All Interior Items and Trim (Zero to Low Cost): Remove all loose items from door pockets, cup holders, and seats. Secure child seats properly. Check seat belt anchors and buckles. Push on interior trim panels to identify any that are loose and may need a clip replaced.
3. Tighten Exhaust Header Bolts (Low Cost, Moderate Difficulty): For modified vehicles with long tube headers, a cold engine exhaust leak is common. Once the engine is completely cool, check and re-torque all header flange bolts to the manufacturer's specification. Often, they will have loosened over time. If the gasket is blown, replacement is needed.
4. Replace Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Moderate Cost, Moderate-High Difficulty): If wheel bearing play is confirmed, replacement is necessary. This is a press-in or bolt-in procedure requiring specialized tools (press, torque wrench, large sockets).
5. Diagnose and Replace Failing Pulley or Belt Tensioner (Moderate Cost, Moderate Difficulty): Use a stethoscope to isolate a noisy upper pulley or idler. Spinning them by hand may reveal roughness or play. Replacement typically requires a serpentine belt removal tool.

Required Parts

The parts needed are entirely dependent on the diagnosis:

• Common Consumables: Tire debris (none), interior trim clips ($5-$20 for a pack), exhaust header gaskets ($30-$80 per set), header bolts ($10-$40).
• Wheel End Parts: Wheel bearing/hub assembly ($80-$250 per corner), CV axle assembly ($150-$400).
• Engine Bay Parts: Serpentine belt idler pulley ($30-$80), belt tensioner assembly ($80-$200), serpentine belt ($30-$80).
• Essential Tools: Floor jack and jack stands, torque wrench (1/2" drive for lug nuts and hub bolts, 3/8" for smaller fasteners), basic socket and wrench sets, mechanic's stethoscope, wheel chocks.

Cost Analysis

• DIY Cost Range: $0 to $400. The majority of fixes (debris removal, trim securing) cost nothing. Re-torquing headers costs only time. Replacing a pulley or idler typically costs $30-$150 in parts. A wheel bearing and seal kit can range from $80-$150 for a press-in style, plus potential rental of a bearing press kit.
• Professional Shop Cost Range: $100 to $600+. Diagnostic fees typically start at $100-$150. Labor for a wheel bearing replacement can range from 1.5 to 3 hours ($150-$450 in labor) plus parts. Exhaust leak diagnosis and gasket replacement is usually 1-2 hours of labor ($100-$300). A shop will correctly diagnose the issue but at a significant premium over the most common DIY fixes.

Useful Tips

• The Chalk Test: If you suspect a rock in the tread but can't see it, rub a piece of chalk over the tread blocks while spinning the tire. A lodged object will scrape the chalk away, revealing its location.
• Cold vs. Hot: Pay close attention to when the noise occurs. An exhaust leak at the headers is often loudest when the engine is cold and may diminish as the metal expands. A wheel bearing noise may get louder or change pitch as it heats up.
• Load Test: To help isolate a CV joint, find an empty parking lot and drive in slow, tight circles in both directions. A pronounced clicking during turns is a classic sign of a failing outer CV joint.
• Don't Overlook the Simple Stuff: Countless hours have been wasted by owners (and mechanics) chasing a noise that ended up being a loose change in the center console, a water bottle in the door pocket, or a hubcap. Eliminate all possibilities before disassembling major components.
• Torque Specs are Critical: When reinstalling a wheel, always use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to the vehicle's specified value (often 80-100 lb-ft for passenger cars). Uneven or over-torqued lug nuts can warp brake rotors, creating a new clicking or scraping sound.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.