How to Diagnose and Fix a Clicking Noise in Your 2015 Dodge Challenger

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A persistent clicking noise in your 2015 Dodge Challenger can be a frustrating distraction from the driving experience you love. While these cars are built for fun and power, various components can develop issues that manifest as ticks, clicks, or thuds. Based on real owner discussions, the most common culprit for engine-related clicking is an intake leak, but noises can also originate from the undercarriage, exhaust, or interior. As one passionate owner, Maleficent-Way-5519, shared about their V6 SXT: “It may be a v6 but I absolutely love this thing, so much fun to drive this just about anywhere.” Let’s ensure that fun isn’t interrupted by an annoying noise.

Symptoms

Owners of the 2015 Challenger describe the clicking noise in several specific ways. The most frequent report is a rhythmic ticking or tapping sound that seems to emanate from the engine bay, often increasing with RPMs. This is commonly referred to by owners as a "lifter tic," a metallic clicking that can be heard at idle and during acceleration.

Another symptom is a deeper, singular "thud" or clunk, sometimes felt through the floorboard or heard from the undercarriage. This can occur when going over bumps, during gear changes, or when starting from a stop. Owners also report rust-related noises, which may present as creaking, popping, or clicking from the suspension or exhaust components, especially in regions that use road salt.

Finally, some owners describe a more generalized noise that contributes to a feeling of being surrounded by sound, with one owner even using the term "claustrophobic" to describe the cabin experience when multiple minor rattles or clicks are present. It’s important to note whether the noise changes with steering input, braking, or throttle application, as this is key to diagnosis.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of an engine-related clicking noise in the 2015 Dodge Challenger, based on owner-identified issues, is an intake leak. This is particularly relevant for models with aftermarket intakes, like the K&N system mentioned by owners. An intake leak occurs when unmetered air enters the engine after the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.

This disrupts the carefully calibrated air/fuel ratio, often causing the engine to run lean (too much air, not enough fuel). The computer tries to compensate, but the inconsistent airflow can cause irregular combustion, leading to audible clicking or tapping noises from the cylinders. This leak can be at the intake manifold gaskets, throttle body seal, or at any connection point in the aftermarket intake tubing itself. As owner 775GeekedUpFive7 noted, modifications are common: “I’ve got a 2015 5.7 rt... all stock other than k&n air intake and mid/rear muffler delete.” Such modifications are a frequent starting point for diagnosing new noises.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a clicking noise requires a systematic approach to isolate its origin. You will need a mechanic's stethoscope (or a long screwdriver), a flashlight, and a safe way to lift and support the vehicle if checking the undercarriage.

Step 1: Locate the Noise. With the engine cold and the parking brake firmly set, start the vehicle. Use the stethoscope to carefully listen around the intake manifold, throttle body, and each connection point of the intake tubing. Move the probe to the valve covers to see if the click is louder there (indicative of valvetrain noise). Have a helper gently rev the engine while you listen.

Step 2: Check for Intake Leaks. A classic test is to use a can of carburetor cleaner or propane (with extreme caution). With the engine idling, spray small amounts around the intake gaskets and intake tube connections. If the engine RPMs change (rise or stumble) when you spray a specific area, you’ve found your vacuum leak. Never spray near hot exhaust components.

Step 3: Inspect the Undercarriage. Safely lift the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Visually inspect the exhaust system from the headers back. Look for rust holes, loose heat shields (which can cause a rapid clicking or buzzing), and check that all exhaust hangers are intact. Grab the exhaust and gently try to move it; any clunking could indicate a broken hanger or a loose connection.

Step 4: Check Suspension and Drivetrain. With the vehicle still lifted, check for play in the wheel bearings by grabbing the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rocking it. Inspect the CV axle boots for tears and check that suspension components like tie rods and ball joints are tight.

Step-by-Step Fix

If you've diagnosed an intake leak, here is the detailed process to fix it.

1. Safety First: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Allow the engine to cool completely if it has been running. 2. Remove the Intake Assembly: Unclip the intake air temperature sensor and MAF sensor connectors. Loosen the hose clamps securing the intake tube to the throttle body and airbox. Carefully remove the entire intake tube and air filter assembly. 3. Inspect and Clean: Thoroughly inspect the rubber couplers and silicone connectors for cracks, dryness, or tears. Check the throttle body and intake manifold mating surfaces for debris or old gasket material. Clean the MAF sensor with dedicated MAF cleaner. 4. Replace Seals/Gaskets: If the leak is at the intake manifold, this is a more involved job requiring manifold removal to replace the gaskets. For leaks at connections, replace any damaged couplers or clamps. Always use new gaskets when reassembling major components. 5. Reassemble: Carefully reinstall the intake assembly, ensuring every connection is snug and properly seated before tightening clamps. Reconnect all electrical connectors. 6. Reconnect Battery and Test: Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and listen for the clicking noise. Use the carb cleaner test again to verify the leak is sealed.

For a loose heat shield, the fix is often simpler. As one owner, HurtsNo1, who maintains a high-mileage Scat Pack, might attest, regular checks are key: “She's coming up on 112k miles strong.” You can often secure a rattling heat shield with large stainless steel hose clamps or, if it's severely rusted, carefully break off the offending section, ensuring it won't contact other parts.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Intake Manifold Gasket Set (Mopar Part # 53031863AB for 5.7L HEMI - confirm for your engine)
  • Throttle Body Gasket
  • Silicone Intake Couplers (for aftermarket intake fixes)
  • Constant-Tension Hose Clamps (various sizes)
  • Exhaust Heat Shield Clamps (large diameter)
  • MAF Sensor Cleaner
• Tools:
  • Mechanic's Stethoscope
  • Basic Socket and Wrench Set (Metric)
  • Torque Wrench
  • Screwdrivers
  • Floor Jack and Jack Stands
  • Can of Carburetor/Choke Cleaner (for diagnostic test)

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a clicking noise varies dramatically based on the cause and who does the work.

• DIY Intake Gasket Replacement: If you do the work yourself, the cost is primarily for parts. A quality intake manifold gasket set can run between $80-$150. With basic tools, your total cost is under $200.
• Professional Intake Leak Repair: A shop will charge for diagnosis (1.0 hour at ~$120/hr) and repair. Replacing intake manifold gaskets on a HEMI V8 is labor-intensive, often billed at 4-6 hours. Total shop cost can range from $700 to $1,200 for this repair.
• Simple Fix Cost: Securing a heat shield with clamps is a minimal DIY cost ($10-$20). A shop might charge 0.5 to 1.0 hour of labor ($60-$120) for the same simple fix.
• Modification Context: As owner 775GeekedUpFive7 alluded to with a budget for mods, “got 5k to play with,” investing in proper installation and maintenance of aftermarket parts can prevent these issues. A poorly installed $300 intake can lead to a $1200 repair bill.

Prevention

Preventing clicking and rattling noises comes down to proactive maintenance and careful modification.

1. Inspect Aftermarket Installations: Any time you modify the intake or exhaust, double-check all connections, gaskets, and clamps after the first few heat cycles, as they can settle and loosen.
2. Regular Under-Car Inspections: When changing oil, take a moment to look for rust progression on the exhaust, loose heat shields, or worn suspension bushings. Catching a small crack in an exhaust hanger is easier than replacing a cracked manifold.
3. Use Quality Parts: When replacing gaskets or seals, opt for OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts. Cheap gaskets can fail quickly, leading to a recurring leak.
4. Address Rust Early: Keep the undercarriage as clean as possible, especially in winter. Treat surface rust before it penetrates and weakens components like exhaust brackets.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Owner Experiences

"Just got my first Challenger/muscle car around two weeks ago. It’s a 2015 sxt, It may be a v6 but I absolutely love this thing, so much fun to drive this just about anywhere." — Maleficent-Way-5519 (source)

"It’s a 2015 sxt, It may be a v6 but I absolutely love this thing, so much fun to drive this just about anywhere. Can’t wait to modify this slowly as time goes on." — Maleficent-Way-5519 (source)

"So I’ve been looking high and low and I’m trying to find awesome badging for my 2015 shaker scat pack. Bottom line is I HATE chrome." — Odd_Shake_3873 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix an intake leak causing a click? A: It depends on the leak's location. Tightening a loose intake tube clamp can be a 15-minute fix. Replacing the intake manifold gaskets is a major job that can take a skilled DIYer 4-6 hours and a professional mechanic 3-5 hours due to the need to remove multiple components to access the manifold.

Q: Can I drive my Challenger with a clicking noise? A: It depends on the severity. A minor heat shield rattle is mostly an annoyance. However, a significant intake leak causing a pronounced clicking/lean condition can lead to long-term engine damage from pre-detonation or excessive heat. A loud clicking from the valvetrain could indicate imminent lifter failure. It's best to diagnose promptly and avoid aggressive driving until you identify the cause.

Q: Is a clicking noise a common issue on the 2015 Challenger? A: Based on owner discussions, intake-related noises and general rattles are common points of concern, especially as the vehicles age and with the prevalence of aftermarket modifications. The HEMI engine's design can also make it prone to valvetrain noises if oil change intervals are stretched.

Q: DIY vs mechanic – what’s recommended for this fix? A: Simple fixes like securing a heat shield or tightening intake clamps are well within a DIYer's capability. Diagnosing the exact source of the noise is the hardest part. If you are comfortable with basic tools and following instructions, repairing an intake leak can be a rewarding DIY project. However, if the diagnosis points to internal engine components (like lifters) or requires major disassembly, the complexity and risk of error make a professional mechanic the recommended route. As one owner, anonanon-do-do-do, exemplifies with their cherished SRT 392, some cars are worth professional care: “Garage queen.”

Q: Could the noise be coming from my speakers or interior? A: Yes. Owners have mentioned issues with left-side speakers, which could cause a popping or static click. A thorough diagnosis should include checking the audio system at different volume levels and sources to rule out an electrical gremlin before focusing on mechanical components.

Q: My car has high mileage. Should I be worried? A: Not necessarily, but be vigilant. High mileage means more wear on all components. Owner HurtsNo1 proves these cars are built to last: “She's coming up on 112k miles strong.” Strong maintenance is the key. At higher mileages, lifter and exhaust manifold bolt issues become more common, both of which can cause clicking. Regular oil changes with the correct viscosity oil are critical for the HEMI engine's valvetrain.