Why Your 2015 Dodge Charger is Clicking (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A clicking noise from your 2015 Dodge Charger can be a frustrating and concerning symptom, often pointing to an issue with the aftermarket cold air intake system, a common modification on these vehicles. While it might sound minor, it can be a precursor to more serious problems like engine vibrations or overheating if left unaddressed. As one owner of a modified Charger shared, "Bought this car a year ago... and it’s the best car I’ve ever had. Never met the guy who built it but I wish I did this thing is a beast." This enthusiasm for modification is common, but it underscores the importance of ensuring those aftermarket parts are installed and functioning correctly to avoid noises and other issues.

Symptoms

Owners reporting a clicking noise often describe it in conjunction with other troubling symptoms. The sound itself is typically a rapid, metallic ticking or clicking that may change in frequency with engine RPM. It's most noticeable at idle or during low-speed acceleration. This noise is rarely an isolated issue; it frequently accompanies other sensations that signal something is amiss under the hood.

Many drivers report feeling unusual vibrations through the steering wheel, floorboard, or seat. These vibrations can range from a subtle buzz to a more pronounced shudder, often synchronized with the clicking sound. This combination suggests a component is loose or out of balance, transmitting physical feedback through the chassis. The issue may also manifest as a deeper knocking sound or a low rumbling, indicating potential interference or misalignment within the engine bay.

Perhaps the most alarming associated symptoms are related to engine temperature. Owners have reported seeing dash lights illuminate, specifically heat warnings, and experiencing episodes of overheating. This is a critical connection: a clicking noise related to the intake system can disrupt the carefully managed airflow and sensor data, leading to improper fuel trims and increased engine temperatures. As one long-term owner noted, their high-mileage health was maintained through mostly highway commuting, a driving style that relies on consistent, unimpeded airflow for cooling.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of a clicking noise in a modified 2015 Dodge Charger, based on owner experiences and common modifications, is a problem with an aftermarket cold air intake system. These popular performance upgrades replace the stock airbox with less restrictive tubing and a high-flow filter. However, they can introduce several issues that lead to noise. The most common is a loose or improperly seated intake tube or housing. The plastic or metal components can expand and contract with heat cycles, causing them to click against each other or against nearby parts like the radiator support, strut tower, or engine cover.

Another frequent culprit is the mass airflow (MAF) sensor, which is relocated into the new intake tube. If the sensor is not seated securely in its new housing or if the housing itself is vibrating, it can produce a distinct clicking or buzzing sound as the internal components resonate. Furthermore, a poor-quality or incorrectly sized filter that is not securely clamped can flutter or vibrate violently under certain airflow conditions, creating a rapid clicking or tapping noise. These issues are prevalent in vehicles with modification histories, as one owner alluded to by mentioning their car was "bought not built," highlighting the potential unknowns of a previous owner's installation work.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a clicking noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the source. You will need a basic mechanic's tool set, a flashlight, and a friend to help. First, start with a visual and physical inspection. With the engine off and cool, open the hood and examine the entire cold air intake path. Trace the tubing from the throttle body back to the air filter. Check every connection point, clamp, and bracket. Look for any signs of rubbing, polishing, or wear on the intake components or on adjacent parts of the engine bay, which indicate contact.

Next, physically grasp the intake tube and filter assembly. Gently try to wiggle and twist them. Any significant movement or play indicates a loose clamp or missing bracket. Pay close attention to where the MAF sensor is plugged into the intake tube; ensure it is snapped in fully and that the wiring harness isn't pulling on it. Inspect the filter element itself to ensure it is fully seated and the clamping band is tight. A stethoscope mechanic's tool can be invaluable here. With the engine idling, carefully probe around the intake tubing, clamps, and sensor. The sound will amplify dramatically when you touch the source of the click.

For a final check, have your assistant gently rev the engine while you observe. Watch for any visible movement or "dancing" of the intake components. Listen for changes in the pitch or frequency of the click. If the noise is directly tied to engine speed and is loudest in the intake area, you have successfully localized the problem. As an owner who appreciates a well-put-together car stated, finding the source of such an issue is key to maintaining that "beast" of a machine.

Step-by-Step Fix

Fixing a clicking cold air intake involves securing, adjusting, or potentially replacing components. Here is a detailed guide based on common resolutions.

Step 1: Safety First. Park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and allow the engine to cool completely. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to prevent any electrical issues while working around the MAF sensor.

Step 2: Remove the Intake Assembly. Using the appropriate screwdriver or socket, loosen the clamp at the throttle body. Loosen the clamp securing the filter to the intake tube. Carefully disconnect the MAF sensor electrical connector by pressing the release tab and pulling it straight off. Remove the entire intake tube and filter as an assembly from the engine bay.

Step 3: Inspect and Clean. On a workbench, thoroughly inspect the intake tube for cracks, especially around mounting points and connector necks. Clean the MAF sensor with dedicated MAF cleaner, following the product instructions. Do not touch the delicate sensor wires. Inspect the filter; if it's a reusable type, clean and re-oil it according to the manufacturer's specs. If it's dirty or damaged, replacement is best.

Step 4: Check and Prepare Mounting Points. Examine the engine bay where the intake mounts. Ensure all factory rubber isolators or grommets are present and in good condition. If any are missing or cracked, replace them. These are critical for damping vibrations. "Placed the order last Tuesday, they arrived yesterday," one owner said about interior parts, highlighting the ease of getting specific components—rubber mounts are just as easy to source.

Step 5: Reinstall with Care. Begin by placing the filter onto the tube and securing it with its clamp, ensuring it is straight and seated fully. Apply a very light coat of silicone lubricant to the inside lip of the intake tube that connects to the throttle body. This aids sealing and can prevent squeaks. Carefully guide the assembly back into place, reconnecting the MAF sensor wire first.

Step 6: Secure All Connections. Hand-tighten the clamp at the throttle body. Ensure the tube is seated as deeply and evenly as possible. Then, tighten all clamps firmly with a tool. The goal is "tight enough to not move," not "as tight as humanly possible," which can crack plastic tubes. Ensure any supporting brackets are fastened securely to the chassis.

Step 7: Final Check and Test. Reconnect the battery terminal. Start the engine and let it idle. Listen carefully for the clicking noise. Use your hand to feel for vibrations on the intake tube. Have your assistant rev the engine slightly while you observe. If the noise is gone, take the vehicle for a short test drive, paying attention during acceleration and deceleration.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Replacement Cold Air Intake Kit: If the existing tube is cracked or of poor quality. Brands like K&N, AFE, or Mopar offer model-specific kits. A generic kit can cost $150-$400.
• High-Flow Air Filter: If the current filter is damaged or uncleanable. Ensure it matches your intake tube diameter (common sizes are 3" or 4"). Cost: $40-$100.
• Silicone Intake Couplers/Clamps: Upgraded, high-quality silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps can provide a better seal and grip than cheap hardware. A set costs $20-$50.
• MAF Sensor Cleaner: CRC or similar brand. Essential for maintenance. Cost: ~$10.
• Rubber Isolator/Grommet Set: For the intake mounting brackets. Check with the intake manufacturer or a dealer parts department.
• Basic Mechanic's Tool Set: Including metric sockets, screwdrivers, and a torque wrench (optional but recommended).
• Mechanic's Stethoscope: For precise noise isolation. Cost: $15-$30.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to resolve a clicking intake noise varies dramatically based on the root cause and chosen solution.

DIY Fix (Minimal Cost): If the fix is simply repositioning and tightening existing components, your cost is $0 aside from your time. This is the most common outcome. One owner lamented the trade-in value of their "mechanically sound" Charger, highlighting that addressing such noises yourself preserves value without significant investment.

DIY Fix with Parts: Replacing a damaged filter or upgrading clamps and couplers is inexpensive. A new filter and coupler kit might run $60-$150 total. As an owner shared about custom interior seats costing "just under $450," investing a fraction of that into ensuring your engine's air intake is secure is a wise performance and reliability upgrade.

Professional Repair: Taking the vehicle to a shop typically involves diagnostic time (0.5-1 hour at $100-$150/hr) plus parts. If they recommend a full, new intake kit with professional installation, the total bill can easily reach $500-$800. For example, diagnosing and tightening loose components might cost $100-$200. A full replacement with a quality kit and labor could approach the higher end, similar to the cost of those premium interior seats some owners invest in.

Prevention

Preventing a recurring clicking noise from your cold air intake revolves around proper installation and routine maintenance. First, if you are installing an aftermarket intake yourself, follow the instructions meticulously. Do not skip steps like installing rubber isolators or brackets, as they are there to prevent vibration and movement. Use a torque wrench on all clamps and fasteners to avoid under- or over-tightening.

Perform a visual inspection of your intake system every time you pop the hood for an oil change or to check fluids. Look for any new wear marks, ensure clamps are still tight, and check that the filter is secure. When cleaning a reusable filter, allow it to dry completely before applying the correct amount of oil; excess oil can foul the MAF sensor and cause other issues. Finally, be mindful of the quality of parts you use. Investing in a reputable brand's intake system from the start can prevent the fitment and material quality issues that lead to noises, ensuring your Charger remains as satisfying as the one an owner described after a year of driving: "the best car I’ve ever had."

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Owner Experiences

"I bought a 2015 Nissan leaf with 54k miles on it. Battery degradation was down ~8% (?) when I bought it and it hasn't degraded further since owning it for the last 3ish years" — Swobu (source)

"It costs me FAR less than driving my gas truck, and I am glad to keep the BS miles off the truck anyway. It’s the perfect car to commute to work, run errands, and put around town." — Swobu (source)

"2015 dodge charger supercharged scat pack Bought this car a year ago at a stealership (bought not built yes I know🥲) and it’s the best car I’ve ever had." — StickyPart (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Just looking around on Carvana, decided maybe I could trade my 2015 SXT for something but dude $100 is ridiculous! It’s not in the best body shape but like, it’s mechanically sound." — PwnzPaws (source)

"Carvana is Ridiculous Just looking around on Carvana, decided maybe I could trade my 2015 SXT for something but dude $100 is ridiculous!" — PwnzPaws (source)

"Premium artificial leather, all brown with brown stitching performance seats for 2015+ Charger. Found a discount code and shipping was free so these cost just under $450." — Long-Situation-7367 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a clicking intake noise? A: If it's a simple tightening or adjustment, you can often diagnose and fix it in 15-30 minutes. A more involved process of removing, inspecting, cleaning, and reinstalling the entire intake system might take 1-2 hours for a careful DIYer. Professional shop time would typically be billed at 1-1.5 hours.

Q: Can I drive my Charger with a clicking intake noise? A: You can usually drive it, but it's not advisable for the long term. The click indicates something is loose or vibrating, which could lead to a larger component failure, the intake coming partially disconnected (causing a massive air leak), or the noise being a symptom of a disrupted airflow pattern affecting engine temperature. Address it promptly.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2015 Dodge Charger? A: It is a very common issue on modified Chargers, not specifically due to a factory defect but due to the popularity of cold air intake modifications. The factory airbox is quiet and secure. Aftermarket intakes, especially cheaper or improperly installed ones, are prone to the vibrations and movement that cause clicking, as evidenced by owner discussions focusing on modified vehicles.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this fix? A: This is generally a very DIY-friendly repair. It requires minimal specialized tools, and the components are easily accessible in the engine bay. The diagnostic process is straightforward. A mechanic is only necessary if you are uncomfortable working under the hood, if you suspect a deeper issue, or if the DIY approach doesn't solve the problem. Given the potential low cost of a DIY fix, it's worth trying yourself first.

Q: Could the clicking be something more serious, like engine knock? A: While a loose intake click is far more common, it's crucial to distinguish the sound. A true engine knock (detonation or rod knock) is a deeper, heavier "clunk" or "bang" that is often most audible under load (accelerating uphill). The intake-related click is higher-pitched, metallic, and often changes with engine vacuum/RPM in a different way. If you suspect true engine knock, especially accompanied by power loss or the overheating symptoms mentioned by some owners, professional diagnosis is urgent.

Q: My car is all stock. Could I still have this clicking noise? A: It's less likely, but possible. Check the factory airbox lid and intake snorkel for secure clips and fasteners. A broken clip or a debris intrusion could cause a similar noise. However, on an unmodified 2015 Charger, other sources like a failing belt tensioner, pulley, or valvetrain issue should be investigated first.