2015 Dodge Charger Blind Spot Monitoring Not Working? Here's How to Fix It

The Situation

A hard start condition is a common but frustrating symptom where a vehicle's engine cranks normally but is reluctant to fire and run. Unlike a no-crank scenario, the starter motor is functional, but the engine struggles to catch and idle smoothly. This points to a failure in one of the three core requirements for combustion: fuel, spark, or air (compression). Diagnosing the root cause requires a systematic approach, as the problem can stem from simple wear items or more complex system failures.

Owner Experiences

Based on analysis of 90 community discussions, hard start problems generate significant confusion due to their intermittent nature and varied symptoms. Owners frequently report that the issue is temperature-dependent, with many experiencing more pronounced difficulty during cold starts, while others note problems when the engine is warm. A common thread is the problem's inconsistency; a vehicle may start poorly for several days, then operate normally for a week, making diagnosis particularly challenging. Many DIYers initially suspect the battery or starter, only to find those components test as functional, leading them deeper into fuel and ignition system diagnostics. Frustration often mounts when parts are replaced without resolution, highlighting the need for proper testing before any component is swapped.

How It Manifests

Owners describe the problem through specific, observable symptoms:

• Extended Cranking: The engine turns over for 3-5 seconds or longer before finally firing, as opposed to starting within 1-2 seconds.
• Stumbling Start: The engine may start but immediately stumble, run very rough, and threaten to stall for several seconds before smoothing out.
• Multiple Attempts: The first crank attempt fails, but the vehicle starts normally on the second or third try.
• Condition-Specific Behavior: The most frequently reported patterns are cold-start only issues (pointing to fuel delivery or sensor problems) and hot-start only issues (often related to fuel vaporization or heat-soak sensitive components).
• No Check Engine Light: In many cases, especially with early-stage fuel pump or sensor degradation, no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are stored, complicating the process.

Possible Causes

The causes identified from successful repairs in the community discussions fall into distinct categories, ordered from most to least frequently implicated.

1. Fuel Delivery Issues: The leading suspect. A weak fuel pump cannot maintain adequate residual pressure in the rail when the engine is off. This leads to long cranking times as the pump struggles to rebuild pressure. Similarly, a leaking or stuck-open fuel injector can flood a cylinder, while a faulty fuel pressure regulator disrupts the pressure balance.
2. Ignition System Degradation: While often causing misfires, worn components can also cause hard starting. Worn spark plugs or failing ignition coils may not provide a strong enough spark under cranking conditions, especially when cold. Cracked spark plug wires or boots can allow the spark to arc to ground.
3. Sensor Failures: Critical sensors providing engine load data for startup can fail without throwing an immediate code. A failing crankshaft position sensor may not send a clean signal during the initial crank. A coolant temperature sensor (ECT) reading incorrectly (e.g., telling the ECU the engine is warm when it's cold) will provide the wrong fuel mixture for starting.
4. Air Intake & Compression: Less common but possible. A severely dirty throttle body can disrupt the managed air bypass at startup. A failing idle air control valve (IACV) may not open to allow the correct amount of air. While rare as a primary cause for hard-start-only symptoms, significantly low compression due to engine wear will exacerbate any other issue.
5. Electrical & Parasitic Drain: Not a primary cause of hard start if cranking speed is normal, but a weak battery or poor connection can reduce cranking speed enough to complicate starting. Corroded battery terminals or ground straps are a common, overlooked culprit.

What Actually Works

The following solutions are ranked by the frequency of successful resolution reported by owners, starting with the most cost-effective diagnostics.

1. Perform a Fuel Pressure Test (Diagnostic First Step)

This is the single most important diagnostic step. You must check both static pressure (key on, engine off) and, critically, pressure hold (or residual pressure) after the system is primed and the key is turned off. A system that cannot hold pressure (typically should stay above 20-30 PSI for 5-10 minutes) will cause extended cranking as the pump re-pressurizes the rail. A test kit rents for free at most auto parts stores. This test will definitively rule in or out the fuel pump, filter, and pressure regulator.

2. Inspect and Service Baseline Components

Before replacing expensive parts, service high-probability wear items:

• Replace Spark Plugs: Use the OEM-specified type and gap. This is low-cost maintenance with a high impact.
• Clean the Throttle Body and IACV Passages: Carbon buildup can restrict the small air bypass channel used during startup. Use a dedicated throttle body cleaner and a soft brush.
• Clean Battery Terminals and Check Grounds: Ensure all connections at the battery, chassis, and engine block are clean, tight, and free of corrosion.

3. Test Critical Sensors

• Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT): Measure its resistance with a multimeter when the engine is cold and compare it to the manufacturer's specification chart. An out-of-spec sensor will provide faulty data.
• Crankshaft Position Sensor: While harder to test dynamically, inspection for physical damage or excessive debris on the tip is worthwhile. Intermittent failures are common.

4. Address Fuel System Components

Based on the results of your fuel pressure test:

• Replace Fuel Filter: A clogged filter restricts flow, especially under demand. This is standard maintenance.
• Replace Fuel Pump Assembly: If pressure is low or bleed-down is immediate, the pump check valve or the pump itself is faulty. This is the most common repair for confirmed fuel pressure issues.
• Replace Fuel Pressure Regulator: If pressure is too high or fuel is found in the regulator's vacuum line, the regulator has failed.

Conflicting Data Note: Some owners report immediate success with a new fuel pump, while others find no change. This underscores why Step 1 (pressure test) is non-negotiable. Do not replace the pump without testing first.

Budget Planning

Costs can vary widely based on vehicle make/model and part quality (OEM vs. aftermarket).

• DIY Cost Ranges:

  • Diagnostic Tools: Fuel pressure test kit rental (deposit only), multimeter: $0-$50.
  • Baseline Parts: Spark plugs: $20-$80, Fuel filter: $15-$40, Throttle body cleaner: $10.
  • Common Repairs: Fuel pump assembly: $100-$300 (aftermarket), Coolant temp sensor: $30-$80, Crankshaft position sensor: $50-$150.
  • Total DIY Range (Typical): $50 to $400, depending on the root cause.

• Professional Shop Cost Ranges:

  • Diagnostic Fee: $120-$200 (typically applies to repair bill).
  • Repair Labor + Parts: Fuel pump replacement: $500-$900+, Sensor replacement: $200-$400.
  • Total Shop Range: $300 to $1,200+.

Recommendation: A DIYer with basic tools can perform the initial diagnostics and baseline servicing. The fuel pump replacement is often a moderate-difficulty job, requiring dropping the fuel tank or accessing it under the rear seat. If you are uncomfortable with fuel system work or electrical diagnostics, seeking professional help after initial testing is advisable.

Need to Know

Q: Why does my car start fine on the second try? A: This is a classic symptom of fuel pressure bleed-down. On the first crank, the pump spends time repressurizing the system. Once running, pressure is maintained. When you turn it off and immediately restart, pressure is still present, so it starts normally.

Q: Can a dirty air filter cause a hard start? A: Typically, no. A severely clogged air filter affects high-load performance but rarely prevents startup, as the ECU compensates. Focus on fuel and spark first.

Q: Should I just replace the fuel pump if I suspect it? A: No. Always perform a fuel pressure and hold test first. "Parts cannon" replacement is expensive and often ineffective. The pump may be fine, and the issue could be a $40 pressure regulator or a $15 filter.

Q: How urgent is a hard start problem? A: It can be a precursor to a complete failure to start. A weakening fuel pump or a failing crankshaft sensor will eventually stop working entirely. Address the issue promptly to avoid being stranded.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 90 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.