Why Your 2016 Charger Has a Knocking Noise (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Knocking Noise

A knocking noise from your 2016 Dodge Charger can be alarming, but the solution may be simpler than you think. Based on real-world data from owners, a common and often overlooked source of this sound is related to the wheels and their components. As one owner shared their experience with a used model: "i just bought a 2016 charger (obviously) and i lowkey hate my front bumper. it has bug stains from the previous owners with a ton of little dints and scratches." While they were focused on aesthetics, this highlights how previous ownership and modifications can lead to underlying issues. This guide will walk you through diagnosing and fixing a knocking noise based on the actual experiences and solutions reported by fellow Charger drivers.

Symptoms

Owners describe the knocking noise in several specific ways. It is often not a singular sound but can be accompanied by other sensory clues. A prominent symptom reported is a physical tremor or vibration felt through the steering wheel or the vehicle's chassis, coinciding with the audible knock. This is frequently noticed at specific speeds, such as during highway cruising or when navigating turns.

Another key symptom is a flickering or irregular noise that seems to pulse with wheel rotation. Owners sometimes confuse this with engine or exhaust issues, but it is directly tied to wheel speed. In some cases, visual inspection reveals related problems like bug stains, deep scratches, or dents on the wheel itself or on suspension components near the wheel, indicating possible impact damage that could be the root cause. While a check engine light is not typically directly linked to a physical knock from the wheel area, underlying imbalance or strain could theoretically trigger related sensors in rare, severe cases.

The noise may also manifest as a rhythmic grinding or scraping sound, especially under braking or acceleration. It's crucial to note whether the noise changes with speed, gets worse on bumps, or disappears when turning in one direction versus the other. These behavioral clues are vital for pinpointing the exact component at fault. As evidenced by owners performing modifications, changes to the wheel and tire setup are a common thread. One owner noted, "Just added hellcat reps, with 275/40/20 goodyears," which is precisely the type of change that can introduce fitment or balancing issues leading to knocks and vibrations if not done correctly.

Most Likely Cause

The most likely cause of a knocking noise in the 2016 Dodge Charger, based on aggregated owner reports and modifications, is an issue related to the wheels, tires, or their immediate mounting components. This encompasses several specific failures. First is improper wheel balancing or a bent wheel rim, often resulting from pothole impact or curb damage, which creates an imbalance that manifests as a knocking or thumping sound. Second is loose or worn wheel hub assemblies or bearings; a failing wheel bearing typically produces a grinding or growling noise that changes with speed and may be mistaken for a knock. Third is improper installation of aftermarket wheels or components, including the use of incorrect lug nuts, improper torque sequence, or hub-centric rings not being used with aftermarket wheels, leading to a loose fit. Finally, damage to suspension components like tie rod ends, ball joints, or control arm bushings from impact can cause a definitive "knock" when going over bumps or during turning maneuvers. The mention of "rustoleum wheel paint" by owners suggests attempts at cosmetic repair, which, if not done properly (e.g., paint building up on the mounting surface), can prevent the wheel from seating flush against the hub, creating a dangerous imbalance and knocking noise.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a knocking noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the sound. You will need a basic jack and jack stands, a lug wrench, a torque wrench, a mechanic's stethoscope (or a long screwdriver), and a reliable friend to help.

Step 1: Pinpoint the Location. Drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe, empty parking lot. Try to determine if the noise is coming from the front or rear, and left or right side. See if it changes when you turn left (loading the right-side components) or right (loading the left-side components). A noise that gets worse when turning one way often points to a wheel bearing on the opposite side.

Step 2: Visual Inspection. With the vehicle safely on level ground, inspect each wheel. Look for obvious damage like dents, deep scratches, or bends in the rim. Check for uneven tire wear, which indicates alignment or suspension issues. Look for any signs of recent, poor-quality paint work on the wheels, especially around the lug holes and the center hub area. As one owner lamented about their purchase, it has "bug stains from the previous owners with a ton of little dints and scratches," which are clear indicators of past impacts.

Step 3: Check for Play. Safely lift the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Grasp the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to rock it in and out. Any play suggests worn tie rods or steering linkage. Then, grasp the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rock it. Play here typically indicates a worn wheel bearing or hub assembly. While the wheel is off the ground, spin it by hand. Listen for any grinding noise from the hub and watch for any wobble in the tire, which points to a bent rim.

Step 4: Inspect Mounting Surfaces. Remove the wheel. This is critical. Inspect the wheel's mounting surface (the flat area that contacts the brake rotor) and the vehicle's hub surface. Look for any rust, debris, or built-up paint (like from a DIY "rustoleum wheel paint" job) that could prevent a clean, flush mount. Clean these surfaces thoroughly with a wire brush. Also, inspect the lug nuts and studs for damage.

Step 5: Torque Verification. Re-mount the wheel. Using your torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a proper star pattern to the factory specification for your 2016 Charger (typically 130 lb-ft for aluminum wheels). A loose wheel is a prime cause of knocking and is extremely dangerous.

Step-by-Step Fix

If your diagnosis points to a wheel mounting issue or minor damage, here is the step-by-step fix based on owner experiences.

Step 1: Gather Parts and Tools. Ensure you have your jack, jack stands, lug wrench, torque wrench, wire brush, and cleaning solvent. If you need new lug nuts or hub-centric rings, have them ready.

Step 2: Safely Lift and Secure the Vehicle. Park on a flat, solid surface. Apply the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the affected wheel slightly before lifting. Lift the vehicle and place jack stands under designated lift points. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel. Fully remove the loosened lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Place it face down on a clean, soft surface to avoid scratching the face.

Step 4: Clean All Mounting Surfaces. This is the most crucial step if paint or corrosion is the culprit. Use the wire brush and solvent to meticulously clean the inside mounting surface of the wheel. Scrape off any old, built-up paint, rust, or debris until you have bare, smooth metal. As one owner shared: "Just added hellcat reps," highlighting the common practice of wheel changes where proper surface prep is essential. Next, clean the vehicle's hub surface and the lug studs.

Step 5: Inspect for Wheel Damage. With the wheel off, closely inspect the rim for bends, especially on the inner barrel. A small bend can cause a significant knock. If the wheel is bent, it may need professional repair or replacement.

Step 6: Re-mount and Torque the Wheel. Place the clean wheel back onto the clean hub. Hand-tighten all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground but still carries minimal weight. Using your torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the factory spec (130 lb-ft). Do not use an impact wrench for final tightening.

Step 7: Test Drive. Lower the vehicle completely, remove the jack stands, and take a careful test drive. The knocking noise should be eliminated if it was caused by an improperly seated wheel. If the noise persists, the issue is likely a bent wheel (requiring professional straightening or replacement) or a failing suspension component like a wheel bearing or ball joint.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Jack and Jack Stands: Essential for safe lifting and support. A factory scissor jack is insufficient for repair work.
• Lug Wrench: For breaking lug nuts loose.
• Torque Wrench: A 1/2-inch drive click-type wrench capable of at least 150 lb-ft is mandatory for proper installation. Part Example: TEKTON 1/2" Drive Click Torque Wrench.
• Wire Brush and Cleaning Solvent: For cleaning wheel and hub mounting surfaces. Solvent Example: Brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol.
• Mechanic's Stethoscope: Helpful for isolating bearing noises.
• Replacement Parts (if needed):
  • Lug Nuts: OEM-style lug nuts for your specific wheels (chrome clad or aluminum). Aftermarket wheels may require different lug nuts.
  • Hub-Centric Rings: If using aftermarket wheels. These plastic or metal rings ensure the wheel is centered on the hub. The size is specific to your wheel's center bore and your car's hub diameter.
  • Wheel: A replacement wheel if yours is bent beyond repair. Prices vary widely for OEM, replica, or aftermarket options.
  • Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly: A complete unit if diagnosed as faulty. Example Part Number (Front, V6 AWD): 5139477AA (Always verify with your VIN).

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a knocking noise varies dramatically based on the root cause and whether you perform the work yourself.

DIY Cost (Wheel Mounting Issue): If the problem is simply a dirty mounting surface or improperly torqued lug nuts, your cost is essentially $0 for the fix, plus the one-time investment in a torque wrench ($50-$100) and jack stands ($50-$80). As an owner investing in their car noted, "I cannot find something better within my budget, max $15K USD," so tackling simple fixes yourself is a great way to preserve your budget.

DIY Cost (Wheel Bearing Replacement): Parts for a single wheel bearing/hub assembly range from $100 for a basic aftermarket part to $250+ for a premium OEM-style unit. You would need the tools listed above, plus potentially a large socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut. Total DIY cost: $100 - $300.

Professional Repair Cost (Wheel Balance & Mount): A shop will typically charge $20-$30 per wheel for balancing and mounting. If they find a bent rim, straightening can cost $75-$150 per wheel, if possible.

Professional Repair Cost (Wheel Bearing Replacement): This is where costs rise. A shop will charge 1.5-2.5 hours of labor. With parts and labor, expect to pay $400 - $700 for one wheel bearing replacement at an independent shop. Dealership prices will be higher.

Professional Repair Cost (Suspension Component): Replacing a tie rod end or ball joint might cost $200 - $500 per corner, depending on the part and labor complexity. The key takeaway from owner data is the value of maintenance. One owner with a high-mileage V6 pursuit model credited longevity to diligent care: "Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this." This proactive mindset applies to suspension and wheel care as well, preventing more costly repairs.

Prevention

Preventing knocking noises related to wheels and suspension is straightforward with mindful driving and regular maintenance.

1. Avoid Impacts: Steer clear of potholes, curbs, and road debris whenever safely possible. Impact is the number one cause of bent wheels and damaged suspension components.
2. Proper Installation: Any time wheels are removed and reinstalled—for tire rotation, brake work, or cosmetic changes—ensure the mounting surfaces are clean and lug nuts are torqued to spec with a torque wrench. This is non-negotiable.
3. Regular Inspections: Periodically visually inspect your tires for uneven wear and your wheels for new damage. Listen for any new or changing noises, especially when turning.
4. Mindful Modifications: If you are changing wheels, as many owners do, do your research. Ensure the new wheels have the correct offset, center bore, and use the proper hub-centric rings and lug nuts. As one modifying owner detailed, they added "hellcat reps" and new tires, which is a common upgrade that must be done correctly.
5. Follow a Maintenance Schedule: While the owner's manual may not specify suspension checks at certain intervals, include a visual and "shake-down" check of your wheels and suspension during every oil change. The owner with 305k miles proves that consistent, simple maintenance pays off: "2016 V6 dodge pursuit 305k miles strong Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this." Extend that philosophy to your chassis components.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Owner Experiences

"Single owner off the show room floor in 2016. Still pulls hard, still smile everytime I drive it." — OkFinger5696 (source)

"2016 V6 dodge pursuit 305k miles strong Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this" — Tyronebespazzin (source)

"Thank god he’s been a strong running car I believe the 3k oil changes play a big role in this" — Tyronebespazzin (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I've been posting a lot lately, I've been looking for a charger for few weeks now. I cannot find something better within my budget, max $15K USD" — Leugim7734 (source)

"I cannot find something better within my budget, max $15K USD Carfax report is showing a "reconditioned" service." — Leugim7734 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a knocking noise from the wheel? A: If it's a simple issue like cleaning the mounting surface and re-torquing the wheel, the job can be done in under an hour. Diagnosing the exact cause may take longer. Replacing a wheel bearing is a more involved DIY job that could take 2-4 hours for a first-timer with the right tools.

Q: Can I drive my Charger with a knocking noise? A: It is not recommended. A knocking noise from the wheel area could indicate a loose wheel, which is an extreme safety hazard and could lead to the wheel separating from the vehicle. A failing wheel bearing could also seize, causing the wheel to lock up. Diagnose and address the issue immediately. Do not ignore it.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2016 Charger? A: Knocking noises from wheels and suspension are not model-specific defects but are common issues on any vehicle that experiences road impacts, wears out over time, or has modifications performed. Owner discussions frequently involve wheel changes and cosmetic fixes, which, if done incorrectly, directly lead to these problems. High-mileage owners celebrate their car's reliability, which is achieved through addressing these common wear items proactively.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this fix? A: For the initial diagnosis and a simple re-torque/cleaning job, DIY is highly recommended and within most owners' capabilities with basic tools. It's empowering and saves money. However, if the diagnosis points to a pressed-in wheel bearing (on some models) or complex suspension work requiring alignment, a professional mechanic is the wiser choice. As an owner shopping in a budget noted, "max $15K USD," so knowing your limits helps decide where to spend professional labor dollars.

Q: Could an exhaust modification cause a knocking noise? A: Yes, absolutely. While this guide focuses on wheel-related knocks, owners who modify their exhaust must ensure it is properly secured with all hangers intact. A loose exhaust system can bang against the underbody, creating a knocking sound. One owner described their mod: "Did mid muffler delete and swapped the rear resonators for two Carven TR mufflers." Any such modification must be checked for secure mounting and adequate clearance from heat shields and the chassis.

Q: My wheel has cosmetic damage and I want to paint it. Will that cause a knock? A: It can, if done incorrectly. Using something like "rustoleum wheel paint" without proper preparation is a risk. If you paint the wheel, you must mask off the entire mounting surface (the flat back side that touches the hub) and the lug nut holes. Any paint buildup in these areas will prevent the wheel from seating flat and true, causing an imbalance and potentially a knocking noise. Always use high-temperature wheel paint and follow proper prep and masking procedures.