How to Fix that Annoying Exhaust Rattle on Your 2019 Dodge Charger

Common Indicators

When owners report their vehicle "pulling," they are typically describing a steering issue where the vehicle drifts or tugs persistently to one side (left or right) while driving on a straight, level road with hands off the wheel. Based on the analysis of 100 discussions, this is a distinct sensation from a vibration or shake. The most common indicator is a constant, one-sided drift that requires constant steering correction, which becomes fatiguing and indicates an underlying problem that needs diagnosis.

Diagnosis Steps

Diagnosing a pull requires a systematic approach to isolate the cause. Start with the simplest and most common checks before moving to more complex components.

1. Tire Check: This is the first and most critical step. Check tire pressures on all four tires when cold, as a difference of just 3-5 PSI can cause a significant pull. Next, perform a visual inspection for uneven wear patterns, bulges, or damage. Finally, perform a basic tire rotation: swap the front tires left to right. If the pulling direction changes or reverses, the issue is almost certainly tire-related (conicity or uneven wear).
2. Road Crown Test: Drive on a flat, empty parking lot or a divided highway with a known opposite crown. If the pull always goes toward the side of the road's slope, it may be normal. If it pulls against the crown or always to one side regardless of road angle, it's a vehicle problem.
3. Brake Drag Check: After a normal drive, carefully feel each wheel hub (avoid touching the brake rotor). If one is significantly hotter than the others on the same axle, it indicates a sticking brake caliper or binding slide pin, which can create a pull.
4. Visual Suspension/Alignment Inspection: With the vehicle safely lifted, check for obvious damage: bent suspension components, a shifted engine cradle/subframe, or severely worn bushings. Look for signs of recent impact or repair.
5. Professional Alignment: If the above steps yield no clear answer, a professional alignment check on a modern machine is essential. A printout will show camber, caster, and toe settings. A significant side-to-side difference in camber or caster (more than 0.5 degrees) is a primary cause of pulling.

What Causes It

Based on owner reports and confirmed fixes from the discussions, the causes of a persistent pull are ranked from most to least frequent:

1. Tire Issues (Most Common): Tire "conicity" (a slight manufacturing imperfection that makes a tire behave like a cone), significant uneven wear from poor alignment or inflation, or mismatched tire models/brands across an axle.
2. Alignment Problems: A difference in camber (wheel tilt) or caster (steering axis angle) from side to side is a leading mechanical cause. This can result from worn components, a minor impact, or a previous poor alignment job.
3. Brake Binding: A partially seized brake caliper or a brake hose that has failed internally (acting as a one-way valve) will apply constant drag on one wheel, pulling the vehicle toward that side.
4. Suspension Component Wear/Failure: Worn or collapsed control arm bushings, a bent strut or control arm, or a damaged steering component can alter alignment geometry and cause a pull.
5. Vehicle Modifications (Noted in Data): Several discussions specifically linked a new "pull" to aftermarket modifications. The installation of a large, heavy aftermarket exhaust system (like a Borla exhaust with 5-inch tips) or other components can sometimes shift chassis geometry or weight balance subtly. Additionally, improperly secured components like a detached inner liner can rub against a tire, creating drag.

Fix Guide

Solutions should be attempted in order of cost and likelihood, starting with the simplest.

1. Address Tire Issues (First Step): Ensure all tires are properly inflated to the door jamb spec. If a pull is present, rotate the front tires left to right. If the pull changes direction, the culprit is a tire. The fix is to replace the problematic tire(s), ideally in pairs on the same axle. This resolved the issue in a majority of owner-reported cases.
2. Professional Wheel Alignment: If tires are ruled out, a professional alignment is the next step. Provide the technician with the pull description. A proper alignment will set all angles to the manufacturer's specifications, ensuring equal settings side-to-side. This is the fix for most non-tire-related pulls.
3. Inspect and Repair Brakes: If a dragging brake is suspected, the caliper, slide pins, and brake hose must be inspected. Cleaning and lubricating slide pins is a low-cost fix. Replacing a seized caliper or a faulty brake hose is the definitive repair.
4. Inspect Suspension and Steering Components: If the pull persists after a proper alignment, a worn or damaged component is likely preventing the alignment from holding or achieving spec. A mechanic should perform a thorough inspection of control arms, bushings, struts, and tie rods.
5. Re-evaluate Modifications: If the pull started after installing new, heavy components like a large cat-back exhaust, ensure everything is mounted securely and not contacting the chassis or suspension. In some cases, professional adjustment or different mounting may be necessary.

What You'll Need

The tools and parts needed depend entirely on the diagnosed cause.

• For Diagnosis: A reliable tire pressure gauge, a jack and jack stands for rotation/inspection, and a infrared temperature gun (optional, for checking brake drag).
• For Tire-Related Fix: Replacement tire(s), tire mounting/balancing equipment (typically done at a shop).
• For Alignment: No tools for DIY; this requires a professional alignment rack.
• For Brake Repair: Jack and stands, lug wrench, C-clamp or brake piston tool, new caliper/slide pin kit/brake hose, brake fluid, wrenches/sockets.
• For Suspension Work: Jack and stands, socket/wrench set, ball joint separator, torque wrench, and potentially a press for bushings. Replacement control arms, bushings, or struts as needed.

What to Expect to Pay

Costs vary widely based on the root cause and whether you perform the work yourself (DIY) or use a professional shop.

• Diagnosis (Shop): $50 - $150 for an alignment check/inspection.
• Tire Replacement: $100 - $350 per tire, mounted and balanced.
• Wheel Alignment: $100 - $200 for a standard two- or four-wheel alignment.
• Brake Caliper Repair: DIY: $50-$150 for a caliper rebuild kit or remanufactured caliper. Shop: $300 - $600 per axle including parts and labor.
• Suspension Component Replacement: DIY: $200 - $600 for parts like control arms or struts. Shop: $500 - $1,200+ depending on the component and labor intensity.
• Modification Adjustment: Cost is highly variable; it may involve shop time for re-fitting or custom fabrication.

Useful Tips

• The Tire Swap Test is Golden: It's the single most informative free test you can do. Always try this before paying for an alignment.
• Alignment Printout is a Must: Never accept an alignment without a before-and-after printout. It provides proof of the work and shows if any angles are out of spec and non-adjustable (indicating damaged parts).
• Check for "Memory Steer": Sometimes a pull can be induced by a binding steering column U-joint or intermediate shaft. Try turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times while parked to see if it feels smoother.
• Modifications Have Consequences: As noted in the source data, adding significant weight (like a large exhaust) behind the front wheels can subtly affect suspension geometry and steering feel. Ensure modifications are installed by experienced professionals.
• Start Simple and Cheap: The statistical likelihood is that your pull is caused by tires or alignment. Invest your time and money in diagnosing those areas first before moving to more expensive suspension or brake component replacements.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.