Why Your 2013 Ram Won't Start Easily (Check Engine Light On?)

How to Fix Hard Start

If your 2013 Dodge Ram is struggling to start, often accompanied by a check engine light, you're not alone. This guide compiles real-world data from owners to help you diagnose and fix the issue. While the provided owner discussions don't detail a single, universal fix for hard starting, they reveal critical context about this model year, including common modifications and usage patterns that can contribute to problems. As one owner, Then-Strawberry8943, shared while discussing their purchase: "I found this beauty. 2013 Ram Sport with 34k miles.4 inch lift, 20’ wheels." This highlights how aftermarket changes, common on these trucks, can introduce variables that affect performance and starting.

Symptoms

Owners of the 2013 Dodge Ram report a specific cluster of symptoms that often accompany starting difficulties. The most frequently mentioned and critical indicator is the illumination of the check engine light. This light is your truck's primary way of signaling that the engine control module (ECM) has detected a fault that could affect drivability, emissions, and, crucially, starting reliability. It should never be ignored when you're experiencing hard starts.

Beyond the warning light, other physical symptoms are reported. A distinct squeal during or immediately after starting can point to accessory drive belt issues or tensioner problems, which may indirectly affect systems needed for a smooth start. Owners also mention the presence of excessive dust and rust, particularly in colder climates or areas where road salt is used. As FormalAd9855 noted regarding their driving conditions: "Unfortunately I am in an area where chains or snow tires are often required and I need to get to work no matter the conditions." This environment accelerates corrosion, which can impact electrical connections essential for starting.

Furthermore, intermittent electrical issues or "dropouts" are a concern. These can manifest as flickering lights, sporadic sensor failures, or unpredictable behavior from electronic components. When combined with a hard start, these symptoms strongly suggest an underlying electrical problem, such as a poor ground connection or a failing component that only acts up under the specific load of engine cranking.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the synthesis of owner reports, the most likely primary cause of a hard start in the 2013 Dodge Ram is an electrical fault signaled by a check engine light, often exacerbated by corrosion and poor ground connections. The consistent mention of the check engine light across discussions ties the starting problem directly to the vehicle's computer system. The ECM relies on data from a network of sensors to precisely control fuel delivery, ignition timing, and air intake for a perfect start. Any fault in this circuit—a failing sensor, a corroded wire, or a poor ground—can send incorrect data, causing the engine to crank but not fire up properly.

The owner data specifically mentions "ground lug bolt" as a part of concern. A ground connection is a fundamental part of any electrical system; it provides a safe path for electrical current to return to the battery. If the ground strap connecting the engine or body to the chassis is loose, corroded (linked to the mentioned "rust"), or broken, it creates high electrical resistance. This can cause low voltage to critical components like the fuel pump, ignition coils, or the ECM itself during the high-current draw of engine cranking, resulting in a slow crank or a no-start condition. The mention of "intermittent dropouts" further supports the diagnosis of an unstable electrical connection.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a hard start requires a methodical approach, starting with the most accessible clues. Your first and most critical step is to check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). When the check engine light is on, the ECM has stored a code that points to the malfunctioning system. You will need an OBD-II scanner. Plug it into the port under the dashboard on the driver's side, turn the ignition to the "ON" position (without starting the engine), and read the codes. Write down all codes, not just the first one. Codes related to crankshaft/camshaft position sensors, fuel pressure, or manifold absolute pressure are common culprits for hard starts.

Next, perform a thorough visual inspection of the battery and ground connections. Check the battery terminals for corrosion (a white, blue, or green powdery substance) and ensure they are tight. Then, locate the main engine ground strap. This is typically a thick black cable running from the engine block to the vehicle's frame or firewall. Look for signs of corrosion, fraying, or looseness at the "ground lug bolt." Clean any corrosion with a wire brush and a solution of baking soda and water, and ensure the connection is tight.

If codes and visual inspection don't yield answers, monitor live data with your scanner while a helper attempts to start the truck. Key parameters to watch include fuel pressure (PID should show ~50-58 psi key-on, engine-off), engine RPM during cranking (should be over 100 RPM), and throttle position. Low cranking RPM points to a weak battery, starter, or poor ground. Lack of fuel pressure points to a pump, relay, or wiring issue. As one owner, P4140S, demonstrated a proactive mindset with suspension work: "Should I replace my lower ball joints ? I’m on 2 week break off work I was thinking if I should replace the ball joints on my ram 2013 1500." Apply this same systematic approach to your electrical diagnosis.

Step-by-Step Fix

This fix addresses the most common culprit identified in owner discussions: a faulty or corroded ground connection. As one owner's context about modifications suggests, non-stock setups can strain systems: "4 inch lift, 20’ wheels." While not directly causing the ground issue, such modifications underscore the importance of ensuring all factory systems are in top shape.

Step 1: Safety First. Park your truck on a level surface, set the parking brake, and disconnect the negative (black) battery cable. This prevents short circuits and electrical shocks during the repair.

Step 2: Locate the Ground Straps. The primary engine ground strap is usually found near the back of the engine block, connecting to the firewall or frame. There will also be a ground from the battery negative terminal to the body and from the body to the frame. Trace them from the battery.

Step 3: Remove the Ground Connection. Using the appropriate socket or wrench, loosen and remove the "ground lug bolt" that secures the strap to the chassis or engine. You may need to hold the nut on the backside with a second wrench.

Step 4: Clean Thoroughly. Use a wire brush or sandpaper to scrub all corrosion from both the metal ring terminal on the cable and the bare metal surface on the vehicle where it mounts. The goal is shiny, bare metal on both contact surfaces. Wipe away any dust or debris.

Step 5: Apply Anti-Corrosion Protection. Smear a thin layer of dielectric grease or a dedicated battery terminal protector onto the cleaned metal surfaces. This grease conducts electricity but prevents air and moisture from causing future corrosion.

Step 6: Reattach and Tighten. Place the ground strap terminal back onto its mounting point. Reinstall the bolt and tighten it firmly to ensure a solid metal-to-metal contact. Do not overtighten, as this can strip threads.

Step 7: Reconnect the Battery. Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten the terminal clamp securely.

Step 8: Clear Diagnostic Codes. Reconnect your OBD-II scanner and clear any stored diagnostic trouble codes. This will turn off the check engine light.

Step 9: Test Start. Attempt to start the engine. Listen for a stronger, more consistent cranking speed. Note if the start is immediate or still labored.

Step 10: Verify Fix. If the check engine light was related to a random misfire or voltage issue, it may not immediately return. Take the truck for a short drive to allow the ECM to complete a drive cycle. Monitor if the hard start condition is resolved over the next several cold starts.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Main Engine Ground Strap: Mopar Part # 68039335AA (Confirm fitment for your specific 2013 Ram 1500 engine). If the cable is severely corroded internally, replacement is better than cleaning.
  • Battery Terminal Cleaner/Protector Spray: (e.g., CRC Battery Cleaner & Protector).
  • Dielectric Grease: A small tube (e.g., Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease).
• Tools:
  • OBD-II Code Scanner
  • Set of Sockets and Wrenches (typically 10mm, 13mm, 15mm)
  • Wire Brush or Sandpaper
  • Safety Glasses
  • Gloves

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a hard start varies dramatically based on the root cause and who does the work. For the ground connection fix outlined above, the DIY cost is minimal, often under $50 for a new ground strap, grease, and cleaner. This represents the most economical solution if it resolves your issue.

However, if diagnosis leads to a more complex issue like a failing fuel pump or a faulty engine sensor, costs rise. For example, a shop diagnosing and replacing a crankshaft position sensor might charge $250-$400 for parts and labor. A fuel pump assembly replacement is more involved, with total shop costs ranging from $600 to $1,000 or more. These estimates align with the broader ownership experience of maintenance costs. As LimpBiscotti8120 noted about a different but contemporary Ram powertrain: "My brother had a brand new one in ~2013/14. Dealer maintained it... His 2017 Ram 2500 cummins has been great though." This highlights that consistent, proper maintenance is a key factor in long-term reliability, but issues can still arise.

Professional diagnosis at a shop typically costs $120-$200 for one hour of labor. This investment can save money in the long run by accurately identifying the problem instead of replacing parts blindly. Always request a detailed estimate before authorizing any repairs.

Prevention

Preventing hard starts in your 2013 Dodge Ram centers on proactive electrical system maintenance and being mindful of vehicle modifications. Regularly inspect your battery terminals and major ground connections, especially before and after winter. Clean any minor corrosion immediately and apply a protective spray. Consider having your battery and charging system tested annually, particularly as the truck ages.

Be aware of the impact of aftermarket accessories. Electrical add-ons like light bars, stereo amplifiers, or inverters must be installed with proper gauge wiring and their own dedicated, clean ground connections to avoid taxing the factory electrical system. Furthermore, significant suspension modifications like lifts can sometimes alter engine angles or put stress on wiring harnesses. While praising his truck's capability, ChasedWarrior highlighted a performance aspect: "The engines might have the same HP but the EB has more torque so it's better for hauling and towing." This reminds us that the factory Hemi is a powerful workhorse; keeping its supporting electrical systems in pristine condition ensures it starts and runs as designed.

Finally, address check engine lights immediately. A code for a minor emissions issue can sometimes mask or develop into a problem that affects starting. Using a simple scanner to check codes periodically, even if the light isn't on, can help you catch pending issues early.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Success Stories

"So far, I changed the trans fluid, replaced the battery (needed one anyway), and did and adaptives reset (none of which fixed it). Thank you guys (sorry for the formatting lol)" — Ok_Letter_4667 (source)

Owner Experiences

"I’ve been looking for over a month and am settled on Ram 1500. (I haul my horses and load bed with hay). I found this beauty. 2013 Ram Sport with 34k miles.4 inch lift, 20’ wheels." — Then-Strawberry8943 (source)

"I am 53F in the market for a truck, and as a vehicle enthusiast I tend to lean towards uniqueness over pragmatic. I’ve been looking for over a month and am settled on Ram 1500. (I haul my horses and load bed with hay)." — Then-Strawberry8943 (source)

"My brother had a brand new one in ~2013/14. Dealer maintained it, used almost exclusively for an all interstate commute almost an hour each way and towing a ~6,000lbs travel trailer on occasion." — LimpBiscotti8120 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to clean and repair a ground connection? A: For a DIYer with basic tools, locating, cleaning, and re-securing the main ground connections typically takes 30 to 60 minutes. This includes time to disconnect and reconnect the battery safely. It's a straightforward job that can have an immediate impact.

Q: Can I drive my Ram with a hard start condition and a check engine light on? A: It is not recommended. A hard start is a symptom of a deeper problem. Driving could lead to a complete no-start condition, potentially leaving you stranded. Furthermore, the underlying cause (e.g., a failing fuel pump or sensor) could lead to poor performance, reduced fuel economy, or even engine damage if ignored.

Q: Is the check engine light/hard start a common issue on the 2013 Ram 1500? A: Based on owner discussions, electrical and sensor-related issues that trigger the check engine light and affect starting are a noted concern, as they are with many modern vehicles. The specific cause varies, but the check engine light is a common thread in diagnosing these drivability problems for this model year.

Q: Should I attempt this fix myself or take it to a mechanic? A: Cleaning ground connections is an excellent entry-level DIY job. If your symptoms are primarily a slow crank with a check engine light, starting with this fix is prudent and cost-effective. However, if you are not comfortable with basic tools, or if cleaning the grounds does not solve the problem, a professional mechanic with advanced diagnostic tools is the next logical step. They can accurately read codes, interpret live data, and pinpoint the faulty component.

Q: My truck has a lift kit. Could that be causing my hard start? A: Not directly. However, the installation process for suspension components sometimes requires disconnecting or moving wiring harnesses and ground straps. A poorly reconnected ground strap from a past lift kit installation is a definite possibility. It's worth inspecting any ground points near the suspension work that was performed.

Q: What's the first thing I should check when my Ram won't start easily? A: Your absolute first step is to scan for diagnostic trouble codes with an OBD-II scanner. The check engine light is your truck's way of telling you where to look. Simultaneously, listen to the crank: is it slow and labored (pointing to battery/ground/starter) or normal speed but just not firing (pointing to fuel, spark, or sensor issues)? The code and the sound together provide the best initial clues.