Why Your 2016 Ram is Clicking and How to Fix It for Good

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A persistent clicking noise from your 2016 Dodge Ram can be a source of significant stress, often signaling an underlying issue that needs attention. While the sound itself is the primary symptom, owners have linked it to a range of problems from stressful maneuvers to a perceived loss of power. As one owner directly asked when hearing an unusual sound from their newly purchased truck, "I hear a ti**cking , is this normal? Also it has a rebuilt title but I don't know if that's the cause" (source). This guide will walk you through diagnosing and resolving this common concern based on real owner experiences and proven fixes.

Symptoms

The clicking noise in these trucks is rarely an isolated sound. Owners report it occurring during specific driving conditions, most notably during what's described as a "stressful maneuver." This could mean during hard acceleration, when towing, navigating sharp turns, or when the transmission is under load. The sound is often rhythmic, speeding up with wheel speed, which is a key diagnostic clue.

Beyond the audible click, this issue frequently coincides with other drivability problems. Several owners have connected the noise to a feeling of engine misfire, a noticeable "suck" or hesitation in power delivery, and an overall loss of power and performance. It’s not just an annoyance; it’s a symptom that your truck is not operating at its peak. The concern is valid, as ignoring it could lead to more significant damage or leave you stranded.

The psychological impact is real, too. Driving with an unexplained mechanical noise is inherently stressful, undermining the confidence and reliability you expect from your vehicle. For a truck celebrated for its capability, any hint of a problem can be magnified. As one proud owner noted after addressing their truck's issues, the transformation in driving feel was dramatic: "Put new brake pads, rotors, shocks & struts and she drives like a dream" (source). This highlights how resolving underlying mechanical issues—which often start with a noise—restores the vehicle's intended performance.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the correlation of symptoms from owner reports, the most likely cause of a wheel-speed-related clicking noise in a 2016 Dodge Ram is a failing wheel bearing or a compromised CV joint (for 4x4 models). The data points strongly to the "wheels" as the primary area of concern. A worn wheel bearing will produce a rhythmic clicking or grinding noise that increases with vehicle speed and may change in tone during turns (loading one side more than the other). This aligns perfectly with owner descriptions of the noise occurring during "stressful maneuvers" like cornering or acceleration.

On 4x4 models, the Constant Velocity (CV) joints at the ends of the front axle shafts are another prime suspect. When the protective boot tears, grease leaks out and contaminants like dirt and moisture get in. This leads to wear on the joint's internal bearings and races, creating a pronounced clicking noise, especially during sharp turns when the joint is at its maximum angle. The associated feelings of "misfire" or "suck" described by owners could be the powertrain control module detecting vibration or wheel speed inconsistencies from a failing component, potentially mimicking engine-related issues.

It is critical to rule out simple causes first. A loose wheel, a rock stuck in the tire tread, or a compromised brake component (like a worn-out pad clip or a cracked rotor) can also produce metallic clicking sounds. However, the persistent nature and correlation with performance issues reported by owners point toward a more significant driveline or suspension component failure.

How to Diagnose

Accurate diagnosis is key to avoiding unnecessary repairs. You'll need a safe, level space like a driveway or empty parking lot, a jack, jack stands, and a basic mechanic's tool set. A friend to help listen can also be invaluable. Do not rely solely on sound; a methodical process will pinpoint the issue.

First, perform a driving test to characterize the noise. Drive at low speed (20-40 mph) on a quiet road. Does the click increase with wheel speed? Try gently swerving left and right (in a safe, empty area). If the noise gets louder when turning right, the problem is likely the left wheel bearing (as it becomes more loaded). If it gets louder turning left, suspect the right side. For a CV joint, a loud, pronounced clicking during full-lock turns is the classic symptom. Note any vibration in the steering wheel or floorboard, which often accompanies a bad bearing.

Next, conduct a static inspection. Safely lift the front (or rear, depending on where you hear the noise) of the truck and support it with jack stands. With the vehicle in "Park" and the parking brake firmly set for the rear, grasp the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. Try to rock the wheel back and forth. Any noticeable play or clunking indicates worn wheel bearings or tie-rod ends. Then, grasp the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rock it. Play here points more directly to a worn wheel bearing. For CV joints, visually inspect the rubber boots on the front axle shafts. Look for any cracks, tears, or grease slung around the boot, wheel, or underside of the truck.

Finally, spin the wheel by hand. Listen for any grinding, grating, or rough sounds from the hub area. While spinning, also observe the brake rotor and caliper for any signs of contact or loose components. A warped rotor or a sticking caliper pin can sometimes cause intermittent clicking or tapping noises. As one owner found, addressing brake-related components had a profound effect: "Put new brake pads, rotors, shocks & struts and she drives like a dream" (source). This underscores the importance of a thorough visual inspection of all rotating assemblies.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a front wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2016 Ram 1500 is a common DIY repair for those with intermediate mechanical skills. The following steps outline the process. Warning: Always consult a factory service manual for torque specifications and exact procedures for your specific model and drivetrain. Safety is paramount.

Step 1: Preparation. Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the affected wheel slightly before lifting the vehicle. Safely lift the front of the truck using a jack placed at the designated front lift point and support it securely with jack stands under the frame.

Step 2: Remove the Wheel and Brake Caliper. Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel. Using a socket and breaker bar, remove the two bolts securing the brake caliper to the steering knuckle. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it from the suspension with a piece of wire or bungee cord—do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor by pulling it straight off the wheel studs.

Step 3: Remove the Hub Assembly. You will now see the hub assembly held to the steering knuckle by four bolts. Before removing them, you must disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (if equipped). Unclip the connector. Using an appropriate socket, remove the four hub mounting bolts. These are often torqued very tightly; a breaker bar or impact wrench may be necessary. The hub assembly should now pull straight out from the knuckle. If it's seized, a rubber mallet or a puller may be needed.

Step 4: Install the New Hub Assembly. Clean the mating surface on the steering knuckle. Position the new hub assembly into the knuckle. Hand-thread the four new mounting bolts (they often come with the new hub). Torque them to the manufacturer's specification in a crisscross pattern. Reconnect the wheel speed sensor connector.

Step 5: Reassembly. Slide the brake rotor back onto the studs. Remount the brake caliper over the rotor and secure it with its two bolts, torquing them to spec. Mount the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification (typically 130 lb-ft for a Ram 1500). Perform a final check that all components are secure before a test drive.

As one owner shared after completing significant suspension work, the reward is a transformed driving experience: "Can't wait to wrap the interior trim and add seat covers, bull bar and some other customs!" (source). Fixing core mechanical issues first provides the solid foundation for any further upgrades.

Parts and Tools Needed

For a wheel bearing/hub assembly replacement:

• Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly: Ensure it includes the wheel speed sensor if your original hub has one. A common quality brand is Timken, SKF, or MOOG. A part number example for a 2016 Ram 1500 4x2 is TIMKEN SP500200, but you must verify fitment for your specific trim and drivetrain.
• New Hub Mounting Bolts: These are often torque-to-yield and should not be reused. They may come with the new hub assembly.
• Basic Mechanic's Tool Set: Sockets (including deep sockets), ratchets, breaker bar, torque wrench (capable of ~150 lb-ft), and wrenches.
• Jack and Jack Stands: Rated for the weight of your truck.
• Wire or Bungee Cord: To safely suspend the brake caliper.
• Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster): For loosening rusty bolts.
• Thread Locker: For the new hub bolts (check if the new bolts are pre-coated).
• Brake Cleaner and Shop Towels: For cleaning components.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a clicking noise varies dramatically based on the root cause and who does the work.

DIY Repair: If the issue is a wheel bearing, a DIYer can expect to spend between $150 and $400 for a quality hub assembly and any necessary consumables (brake cleaner, thread locker). The primary investment is time and tools. There is no labor cost, making this the most economical route for a confident home mechanic.

Professional Repair: Taking your truck to an independent shop for a wheel bearing replacement will typically cost between $450 and $750 for one wheel, including parts and labor. A dealership will be at the higher end of that range or above, potentially reaching $800-$1,000. If the diagnosis reveals a more complex issue, such as a transmission or differential problem hinted at by the "stressful maneuver" symptom, costs can escalate quickly into the $1,500 to $3,000+ range.

It's worth noting that many owners find value in addressing multiple wear items at once. As illustrated by an owner's experience: "Put new brake pads, rotors, shocks & struts and she drives like a dream" (source). While this represents a larger investment, it can be more cost-effective in the long run by saving on future labor charges for related components.

Prevention

Preventing wheel bearing and CV joint failure revolves around vigilance and avoiding abuse. Regularly wash your truck, especially the undercarriage, during winter months to remove road salt, which accelerates corrosion. Listen for new or changing noises and address them promptly; a faint hum today can become a loud click and failure tomorrow.

Avoid imposing extreme stress on these components. While your Ram is built for work, try to steer clear of severe potholes and curb impacts at speed. For 4x4 owners, engage and disengage the four-wheel-drive system periodically as recommended in your owner's manual to keep the front driveline components lubricated. During routine maintenance like tire rotations or brake service, ask your mechanic to check for wheel bearing play and inspect CV joint boots for damage. A small tear in a boot is a $50 fix; a destroyed CV joint is a $300+ repair.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Success Stories

"I did that and also bought a code deleter and it cleared the code but would reset to a 50 mile count down every time I started. Otherwise the truck has driven fine and since I only drive it in town for short trips it was no biggie." — RufussSewell (source)

"The dealer thought it might be crystalized, told me to garage it, let it warm and see if the code cleared. I did that and also bought a code deleter and it cleared the code but would reset to a 50 mile count down every time I started." — RufussSewell (source)

Owner Experiences

"Put new brake pads, rotors, shocks & struts and she drives like a dream. Can't wait to wrap the interior trim and add seat covers, bull bar and some other customs!" — SnooLobsters1644 (source)

"After months of searching, I finally have my tundra! I really really wanted a brown 1974 but was struggling to find one." — SnooLobsters1644 (source)

"If you're doing anything but crawling speed the transmission isn't going to allow itself to be shifted into park. I'm not 100% sure what would happen, but my money would be on something like "P" flashing on your info screen with instructions on stopping the truck before the shift would be completed." — o0Spoonman0o (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I set out to buy a Tacoma, but quickly realized that they are way overpriced. Ended up with a 2016 Ram Bighorn 1500 5.7 with 47K miles for $24K." — eclwires (source)

"Finally pulled the trigger!! 142k miles … yes it has the ticking sound but my mechanic and friend is fixing it for $400 and I’m now responsible for paying his Fantasy Football buy in (he missed playoffs haha)" — Possible-Report (source)

"Originally $14.5k out the door, talked it down to $13.5k out the door. Parts ordered … looks like next Football Sunday will be beer, wings, football and BS with my friend while he fixes my new truck!!" — Possible-Report (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a clicking wheel bearing? A: For an experienced DIYer with the right tools, replacing a single front wheel bearing/hub assembly typically takes 2 to 4 hours. A professional mechanic at a shop can usually complete the job in 1.5 to 2.5 hours of billed labor. Add time for part procurement and if any bolts are severely rusted.

Q: Can I drive my Ram with a clicking noise? A: It is not recommended. A clicking noise from the wheel area indicates a component in the process of failing. A wheel bearing can seize, causing the wheel to lock up, or the hub can separate, leading to a loss of wheel control. A CV joint can fail completely, leaving you without drive power to that wheel (in 4x4 mode) and potentially causing collateral damage. Drive only as far as necessary to diagnose the issue or get to a repair facility, and do so with extreme caution.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2016 Ram 1500? A: While not a universal defect, wheel bearing wear is a common maintenance item on any truck with over 100,000 miles, especially one that has been used for towing or on rough roads. The high mileage at which these issues appear is noted by owners, with one celebrating: "Hit the 6 digit mileage club in my 2016 Ram 1500 this morning.. been a very solid, reliable truck" (source). Wear items like bearings are expected to need attention during a truck's long life.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this repair? A: This repair is on the cusp of intermediate to advanced DIY. If you are comfortable with braking system work, have a good torque wrench, and can safely lift and support your truck, it is a feasible DIY job that saves significant money. However, the bolts can be extremely tight and rust-welded, and improper installation (especially incorrect torque) can lead to catastrophic failure. If you have any doubts about your tools, skills, or strength, hiring a professional is the safer and more reliable choice.

Q: Could a rebuilt title cause this kind of noise? A: Potentially, yes. As one owner questioned when hearing a ticking sound, "I hear a ti**cking , is this normal? Also it has a rebuilt title but I don't know if that's the cause" (source). A vehicle with a rebuilt title has sustained significant prior damage. Improper repair of suspension, steering, or frame components from that original accident could lead to premature wear or misalignment, causing noises like clicking. A thorough inspection by a trusted mechanic is crucial when dealing with a rebuilt-title vehicle.

Q: My truck also has a loss of power. Is that related to the click? A: It can be indirectly related. The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors wheel speed sensors for the anti-lock brake and stability control systems. A failing wheel bearing with a damaged tone ring or a faulty wheel speed sensor can send erratic signals. The PCM may interpret this as a wheel slip or traction event and could reduce engine power or alter transmission shifting to maintain stability, leading to the feeling of "suck" or performance loss you're experiencing.