Why Your 2016 Ram Won't Start Quickly (And How to Fix It)

How to Fix Hard Start

A hard start, where your engine cranks longer than normal before firing up, is a frustrating issue for 2016 Dodge Ram owners. While it can be caused by several factors, the primary culprit identified by owners points to the fuel system. This guide will walk you through the symptoms, diagnosis, and repair based on real owner experiences and data. As one owner shared after resolving their truck's issues, "Put new brake pads, rotors, shocks & struts and she drives like a dream." While their fix was for a different problem, it highlights the satisfaction of a proper repair.

Symptoms

Owners of this generation truck report specific symptoms that accompany a hard-start condition. The most common is a distinct ticking noise from the engine bay, especially noticeable during the extended cranking period. One prospective buyer asked about this very sound, posting, "I hear a ticking, is this normal? Also it has a rebuilt title but I don't know if that's the cause" (source). This ticking is often a key auditory clue that shouldn't be ignored.

Beyond the audible signs, you might experience related electrical gremlins. Several owners mention hyper-flashing turn signals and general flickering of interior or exterior lights. These electrical issues can sometimes be intertwined with starting problems, as the vehicle's computer modules and fuel system rely on stable voltage. A persistent vibration at idle or a high-pitched whistling noise from under the hood are also reported symptoms that can coincide with difficult starts, pointing toward vacuum leaks or fuel delivery irregularities.

It's crucial to note the context in which the hard start occurs. Does it happen primarily when the engine is cold after sitting overnight? Or does it struggle to start even when warm? A cold-start problem heavily implicates fuel pressure bleed-down, while a hot-start issue could point to a different set of concerns, like a failing fuel pump or sensor. Paying close attention to these patterns is the first step in diagnosis.

Most Likely Cause

Based on aggregated owner reports and discussions, the fuel system is the most frequently identified root cause of hard starts in the 2016 Ram 1500. After surpassing 100,000 miles—a milestone many of these trucks are now hitting—components within the fuel delivery system begin to wear. As one owner celebrating this milestone said, "Hit the 6 digit mileage club in my 2016 Ram 1500 this morning.. been a very solid, reliable truck" (source). Even reliable trucks need maintenance, and the fuel system is a primary service area at this mileage.

The issue typically revolves around a loss of residual fuel pressure. When you turn off your truck, the fuel system should maintain pressure so the engine can start quickly next time. If there's a leak—whether it's at an injector, a fuel line connection, or within the fuel pump assembly itself—that pressure bleeds off. When you go to start, the pump has to work to rebuild that pressure from zero, leading to extended cranking. A weak fuel pump may also struggle to generate adequate pressure quickly, resulting in the same symptom. The ticking noise often reported is frequently the sound of the fuel pump working harder than it should or the sound of injectors clicking due to irregular pressure.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a fuel-related hard start requires a systematic approach and a few basic tools. You'll need a fuel pressure test kit (with the correct adapter for your truck's Schrader valve on the fuel rail), a basic mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver, and an OBD-II scanner to check for any stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). While a code may not always be present for a slow-pressure leak, it's an essential first check.

Start with a visual inspection. With the engine cold and off, check around the fuel injectors, the fuel lines along the frame, and the top of the fuel tank for any signs of wetness or the smell of gasoline. Next, perform the key-on, engine-off (KOEO) fuel pressure test. Connect your gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position (but do not start the engine) and observe the pressure. It should quickly rise to a specified psi (consult your owner's manual or service information, typically between 55-62 psi for the 5.7L Hemi). Note the reading.

The critical test is the pressure hold test. Once pressure is built, turn the ignition off. Watch the gauge for at least 10-15 minutes. The pressure should not drop more than a few psi. If it drops significantly, you have a leak. To isolate it, clamp the fuel line return hose (if accessible and with proper line-clamping tools) and repeat the test. If the pressure now holds, the leak is likely in the fuel pressure regulator or return system. If it still drops, the leak is between the clamp and the injectors—possibly a leaking injector O-ring or a fault in the fuel pump check valve. Use your stethoscope to listen for the source of the ticking noise, tracing it to either the fuel pump (located in the tank) or the injectors.

Step-by-Step Fix

The following steps outline the most common repair based on owner data: addressing a failing in-tank fuel pump assembly. This is a involved but manageable DIY job. As one owner shared about their project, "Been shopping for this for MONTHS and honestly was ready to give up" (source). Finding the right part is key, so ensure you get the correct fuel pump module for your specific engine.

Step 1: Safety First. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Relieve the fuel system pressure by locating the fuel pump fuse or relay in the Power Distribution Center (under the hood) and removing it with the engine off. Then, try to start the engine. It will crank but not start, bleeding off residual pressure. Chock the rear wheels and ensure the truck is on a level, well-ventilated surface.

Step 2: Access the Fuel Pump. The fuel pump is located on top of the fuel tank. On the 2016 Ram 1500, you typically need to lower the tank. Support the tank securely with a transmission jack or a floor jack and a piece of wood. Disconnect the fuel filler neck, vent hose, and electrical connectors. Disconnect the fuel line quick-connect fittings at the tank. Carefully lower the tank just enough to access the top.

Step 3: Remove the Pump Module. You will see a large locking ring holding the pump module in place. Using a brass punch and hammer (to avoid sparks), carefully tap the ring counter-clockwise to unlock it. Lift the pump assembly out of the tank, being careful not to damage the fuel level sender float arm.

Step 4: Replace the Assembly. Transfer the fuel level sender and any other necessary components from the old module to the new one if it doesn't come as a complete unit. Install new seals/gaskets that come with the pump kit. Carefully lower the new assembly into the tank, ensuring it's seated correctly. Hand-tighten the locking ring, then secure it with your punch and hammer.

Step 5: Reassemble and Test. Raise the tank back into position and reconnect all fuel lines, electrical connectors, the filler neck, and vent hose. Tighten the tank straps to specification. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key to the "ON" position for a few seconds (do not start) to allow the new pump to prime and pressurize the system. Listen for its operation. Finally, start the engine. It may crank for a second longer on the very first start as the system fully primes, but subsequent starts should be immediate.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Fuel Pump Assembly: Ensure it matches your engine (e.g., 5.7L Hemi). ACDelco and Delphi are common OEM-quality brands. A complete module often includes the pump, sender, and filter.
• Fuel Pressure Test Kit: A kit with a gauge and the correct adapter for your fuel rail.
• Basic Mechanic's Tool Set: Sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers.
• Floor Jack & Jack Stands: For safely lifting and supporting the vehicle.
• Transmission Jack or Supporting Jack: To lower and hold the fuel tank.
• Brass Punch and Hammer: For safely removing the fuel pump locking ring without creating sparks.
• Safety Glasses and Gloves: Fuel is hazardous; protect yourself.
• OBD-II Scanner: For checking codes before and after the repair.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a hard start varies dramatically between DIY and professional repair, largely due to the labor-intensive process of dropping the fuel tank.

DIY Repair: Owners who tackle this themselves report parts costs between $150 to $400 for a quality fuel pump assembly. If you need to rent a fuel pressure tester or a transmission jack, add a nominal rental fee. The total out-of-pocket cost typically stays under $450. The investment is primarily time, with this job taking a seasoned DIYer 4-6 hours.

Professional Repair: Taking your truck to a shop significantly increases the cost. Shop labor rates, combined with the several hours required, make this an expensive fix. Owners report repair bills ranging from $1,000 to $1,800 at independent mechanics and dealerships. The bulk of this cost is labor, as the part markup is standard. One owner expressed the relief of finally getting their truck, a feeling you'll share after a costly repair: "Finally have my tundra! I really really wanted a brown 1974 but was struggling to find one" (source). While about a different truck, it captures the "finally fixed" sentiment.

Prevention

Preventing fuel system-related hard starts revolves around proactive maintenance. Use a quality fuel injector cleaner every 3,000 to 5,000 miles to help keep injectors and intake valves clean. Always replace your fuel filter at the manufacturer-recommended intervals (often part of the pump assembly in-tank, but some models have an inline filter). Avoid running the fuel tank consistently below 1/4 full, as this can cause the in-tank pump to overheat and wear prematurely. The fuel also acts as a coolant for the pump. Pay attention to early symptoms like slight hesitation on acceleration or a faint whine from the rear of the truck, as these can be early warnings of a fuel pump beginning to fail.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from DODGE owners:

Success Stories

"The dealer thought it might be crystalized, told me to garage it, let it warm and see if the code cleared. I did that and also bought a code deleter and it cleared the code but would reset to a 50 mile count down every time I started." — RufussSewell (source)

"I did that and also bought a code deleter and it cleared the code but would reset to a 50 mile count down every time I started. Otherwise the truck has driven fine and since I only drive it in town for short trips it was no biggie." — RufussSewell (source)

Owner Experiences

"Put new brake pads, rotors, shocks & struts and she drives like a dream. Can't wait to wrap the interior trim and add seat covers, bull bar and some other customs!" — SnooLobsters1644 (source)

"After months of searching, I finally have my tundra! I really really wanted a brown 1974 but was struggling to find one." — SnooLobsters1644 (source)

"Ended up getting a WFH job 8 months later, and got to realize the pain of not having a pickup. Been shopping for this for MONTHS and honestly was ready to give up." — thlitherin (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I set out to buy a Tacoma, but quickly realized that they are way overpriced. Ended up with a 2016 Ram Bighorn 1500 5.7 with 47K miles for $24K." — eclwires (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a hard start caused by the fuel pump? A: For a professional mechanic with a lift, the job typically takes 2-3 hours of labor. For a DIYer working in a driveway with hand tools, you should budget 4-6 hours, accounting for careful tank lowering and reconnection of all lines and hoses.

Q: Can I drive my Ram with a hard start condition? A: You can, but it's not advisable for long. A failing fuel pump can leave you stranded if it fails completely. Furthermore, extended cranking puts extra wear on your starter motor and battery. It's best to diagnose and address the issue promptly.

Q: Is a hard start a common issue on the 2016 Ram 1500? A: Based on owner discussion data, it is a reported issue, particularly as these trucks reach higher mileage (100,000+ miles). The fuel pump is a wear item, and its failure is not uncommon in any vehicle at this age and mileage. As one owner noted, "Been a GM guy my whole life, and just got my first RAM! 2016 1500 Sport" (source). New owners should be aware of common high-mileage maintenance items.

Q: DIY vs mechanic—what's recommended for this repair? A: This is a mid-to-high difficulty DIY job. If you are comfortable working under the vehicle, handling fuel lines, and have the necessary tools (especially a way to support the tank), you can save over $1,000. If the idea of dropping a fuel tank full of gasoline is intimidating, or you lack the tools, hiring a professional is the safer and more reliable choice.

Q: Could the dial shifter cause a no-start or hard start? A: While the rotary dial shifter is a unique feature, it is electronically controlled. A fault in the shifter module or its communication could potentially prevent the truck from recognizing it's in "Park," which is a safety interlock for starting. However, this would usually prevent cranking altogether, not cause extended cranking. As an owner clarified about their 2016, "My Ram is a 2016, does not have a knob for 4x4 it has 4 buttons located under the shift dial" (source), highlighting the unique layout. For a hard start (engine cranks but won't fire), the issue is almost certainly elsewhere, like the fuel system.

Q: Are there any quick checks before replacing the fuel pump? A: Yes. First, check for any blown fuses related to the fuel pump. Second, listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to "ON" (you should hear a faint hum from the rear for 2-3 seconds). If you hear nothing, the pump or its relay may have failed. If you hear it, a fuel pressure test is the next definitive step.