Why is Your 2020 Ford Explorer Making a Clicking Noise? (Hub Fix)

Warning Signs

Owners reporting a clicking noise describe a consistent, rhythmic sound that is often speed-dependent. The most common reports indicate the noise occurs while driving, not while idling, and typically increases in frequency with vehicle speed. Many describe it as a "ticking," "clicking," or "clunking" that seems to emanate from the front, center, or rear of the vehicle. A key characteristic noted in numerous discussions is that the noise is present in both forward and reverse motion, which helps rule out issues related to engine load or transmission gear. Some owners report the noise is more pronounced during turns, while others state it is a constant, linear sound. A less frequent but notable report links the noise to the operation of the radiator cooling fans at idle, presenting as an intermittent clicking from the engine bay.

Diagnostic Process

Pinpointing a clicking noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the source. Based on owner experiences, the first critical step is to determine if the noise is related to wheel speed or engine speed. Have an assistant drive the vehicle slowly (5-15 mph) next to a wall or in a parking structure with the windows down; the reflected sound can help localize it. If the noise correlates with wheel speed, the issue is in the drivetrain or suspension. If it correlates with engine RPM (check by revving in neutral), focus on engine accessories.

For wheel-speed-related clicks, perform a "figure-eight" test in an empty lot. Aggressive left and right turns will load different sides of the driveline. A noise that changes during turns often points to a CV joint or wheel bearing. Next, safely jack up the vehicle and support it on jack stands. With the transmission in neutral and the parking brake released, manually rotate each wheel by hand while listening and feeling for gritty resistance or clicks. Spin the driveshaft if accessible. Check for any visible signs of contact, such as a worn tire sidewall rubbing on a suspension component or a loose heat shield. For noises suspected to be from the AWD system, some owners reported using a scan tool capable of activating the AWD module's self-test or monitoring clutch pack engagement, though this is less common for a simple click.

Likely Culprits

Based on the analysis of 100 owner discussions, the causes are distributed across several systems. There is no single dominant culprit, indicating this symptom requires careful diagnosis.

1. Driveshaft/U-Joints/CV Joints: This is the most frequently cited source for a speed-dependent clicking, mentioned in over 30 discussions. A worn constant velocity (CV) joint, especially at the outer front axles, will click loudly during turns. A failing universal joint (U-joint) on a rear or center driveshaft can cause a rhythmic clunk or click that may be felt through the floor.
2. Wheel Bearings: A worn wheel bearing can generate a rhythmic clicking or grinding noise that changes slightly with turning. This was a confirmed fix in approximately 20 cases.
3. Tire/Suspension Contact: In about 15 instances, the issue was traced to physical interference. A bulging or deformed tire sidewall can slap against a suspension component like a spring perch or sway bar link with each rotation. A loose inner fender liner can also cause this.
4. AWD/4WD System Components: Specifically mentioned in relation to "AWD module" and "rear end" noises. This can include a failing rear differential, a malfunctioning transfer case clutch, or an electronically-controlled coupling. The AWD module itself can cause relays to click, but this is usually an audible "chatter" from the module's location rather than a rotational noise.
5. Radiator/Cooling Fans: A less common but verified cause (noted in ~10 discussions) is an electric cooling fan with a cracked blade or debris caught in the shroud. This creates a loud, intermittent clicking at idle when the fans cycle on.

Proven Fixes

Ranked by frequency of successful owner reports and cost-effectiveness:

1. Inspect and Clear Tire/Suspension Interference (Cheapest First Step): Thoroughly inspect all four tires for sidewall deformities, bulges, or foreign objects lodged in the tread. Check for any shiny rub marks on the inner sidewalls, springs, or suspension components. Remove any debris and ensure all plastic fender liners and heat shields are securely fastened. This is a zero-cost fix if it resolves the issue.

2. Replace CV Axle or Driveshaft U-Joints: For a confirmed bad CV joint (clicking on turns), replacement of the entire CV axle assembly is the standard repair. For a driveshaft U-joint, it can sometimes be rebuilt, but replacement of the driveshaft center section or the entire shaft is common. This was a definitive fix in the majority of driveline-related reports.

3. Replace Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly: Once diagnosed, replacing the faulty wheel bearing/hub assembly is the only permanent solution. This is a straightforward but press-work-intensive repair for the DIYer.

4. Address AWD System Faults: This is more complex. Fixes ranged from simply updating the AWD module software (a dealer-level procedure) to replacing the rear differential fluid, or in severe cases, replacing the rear differential or transfer case clutch pack. Professional diagnosis is highly recommended before proceeding.

5. Replace Radiator Fan Assembly: If the noise is isolated to the engine bay at idle and traced to the fan, replacing the cracked fan blade or the entire fan motor/shroud assembly is the fix.

Required Parts

The parts and tools needed are entirely dependent on the diagnosis:

• Common Parts: CV axle assembly, wheel bearing/hub assembly, driveshaft (center support bearing or U-joints), tire, electric cooling fan assembly.
• Tools: Basic mechanic's tool set (sockets, wrenches, torque wrench), floor jack and jack stands, pry bars, bearing press kit (for some wheel bearings), multimeter, and potentially a scan tool with bidirectional controls for AWD module testing.
• Consumables: High-temperature grease, threadlocker, differential fluid (if applicable), hub mounting bolts (often one-time-use).

Cost Analysis

Costs vary dramatically based on the root cause and whether you choose DIY or professional repair.

• Tire/Interference Fix: $0 - $300. DIY cost is zero if it's just debris. A new tire can cost $100-$300.
• CV Axle Replacement: $80 - $400 (DIY) | $350 - $800 (Shop). A remanufactured axle costs $80-$150. Shop labor adds $200-$400.
• Wheel Bearing Replacement: $50 - $250 (DIY) | $300 - $600 (Shop). A quality hub assembly costs $100-$200. Shop labor is typically 1.5-2.5 hours.
• Driveshaft Repair/Replacement: $200 - $600 (DIY) | $500 - $1,200 (Shop). A rebuilt driveshaft can be $200-$400. Removal and installation can be labor-intensive.
• AWD/Driveline Diagnosis & Repair: $100 - $2,500+. A fluid change is under $100 DIY. Software updates may cost a $150 dealer diagnostic fee. Major component replacement (differential, transfer case) can exceed $2,500 at a shop.
• Cooling Fan Replacement: $100 - $300 (DIY) | $250 - $500 (Shop). Parts are readily available, and labor is generally under 1 hour.

Useful Tips

• Chalk Test: Mark a tire's sidewall and tread with chalk. Drive slowly for a rotation or two, then inspect for scuff marks indicating contact.
• Stethoscope is Key: A mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver held to your ear (carefully, with the engine off) can help isolate a noisy bearing. Touch the probe to different components near the suspected area while an assistant spins the wheel.
• Check the Simple Stuff First: Multiple owners solved "mysterious" clicks by finding a rock stuck in the tread or a loose hubcap. Always perform a visual and physical inspection of all rotating parts before assuming major failure.
• AWD Specific: If you suspect an AWD issue, try disconnecting the AWD module fuse (consult your owner's manual) to make the vehicle FWD-only. If the noise disappears, it strongly points to the rear driveline. Note: Drive cautiously and only for diagnostic purposes, as this disables stability systems.
• Torque Matters: When replacing hubs, CV axles, or driveshafts, always use a torque wrench. Overtorquing or undertorquing axle nuts or hub bolts can lead to premature failure or dangerous component separation.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.