2020 Ford Explorer Fuel Economy Dropping? Here's How to Fix It

The Basics

Poor fuel economy, or getting fewer miles per gallon (MPG) than you expect, is one of the most common and frustrating car problems. It's essentially your vehicle using more fuel than it should to travel the same distance. While it's easy to blame rising gas prices, a sudden or gradual drop in MPG is often a sign that something on your vehicle isn't operating as efficiently as it was designed to. Based on analysis of owner discussions, this is rarely a single-issue problem but rather a puzzle where multiple small factors can add up to a big hit at the pump.

Common Indicators

Owners reporting poor fuel economy don't just see a number on a dashboard; they feel it in their wallet. The most common indicator is simply having to fill up the gas tank more often for your regular driving routine. Many people track their "miles to empty" display or manually calculate MPG after each fill-up and notice a steady decline. Others report that their vehicle feels like it's working harder—needing more throttle input to maintain highway speeds or a general sense of sluggishness. It's important to compare your current fuel economy to both the vehicle's original EPA estimates and your own established baseline from when the car was running well.

What's Behind It

Based on over 100 owner discussions, the causes of poor fuel economy are wide-ranging but often fall into a few key categories. While no specific OBD-II trouble codes were frequently cited in these discussions, the parts and modifications mentioned point to clear themes.

Mechanical Drag and Rolling Resistance: This was a significant theme. Owners identified issues like seized brake calipers (creating constant drag), incorrect wheel options (heavier or larger-than-stock wheels increase rotational mass), and even problems with driveshaft components or wheel bearings as culprits that force the engine to work harder.

Modifications and Accessories: Add-ons that affect aerodynamics, weight, or engine load are common culprits. Roof racks, lift kits, and oversized tires all hurt fuel economy. Interestingly, air ride suspensions were mentioned as sometimes causing issues if they are not maintaining proper ride height or have a leak, increasing constant compressor operation. Even permanently installed accessories like an oil pan heater, while useful in cold climates, add a small electrical load that the alternator must supply.

Engine and Maintenance Neglect: This is the classic foundation. Dirty air filters, old spark plugs, clogged fuel injectors, and under-inflated tires are perennial offenders. While not always the flashy answer, poor maintenance is the most common underlying factor that compounds other issues.

Driving Habits and Environment: Owners often confirmed that aggressive driving (rapid acceleration and hard braking) and frequent short trips where the engine never reaches optimal temperature are major contributors. Driving in hilly terrain or against strong winds also naturally reduces MPG.

Identifying the Cause

Pinpointing the cause requires a systematic approach, starting with the simplest and cheapest checks.

1. Check Your Tires: This is step one. Use a reliable gauge to check tire pressure when cold. Also, inspect tires for uneven wear, which could indicate an alignment issue causing drag.
2. Review Recent Changes: Did your fuel economy drop after installing new wheel options, a roof rack, or other accessories? Think about any changes made to the vehicle just before the problem started.
3. Listen and Feel: Drive in a safe, quiet area. Do you hear a constant rubbing or grinding sound? Does the car feel like it's holding back when you coast? This could point to brake drag or a bearing issue. Feel your wheels after a drive; an unusually hot wheel hub can indicate a stuck caliper.
4. Scan for Codes: Even if your check engine light is off, a basic OBD-II scanner can reveal "pending" codes related to oxygen sensors, mass airflow sensors, or thermostat issues that hurt efficiency.
5. Basic Maintenance Check: When was the last time you replaced the air filter, spark plugs, and had an oil change? Keep a log. A visual inspection of the air filter is a 30-second job.
6. Monitor Electrical Loads: If you have aftermarket systems like an air ride suspension or powerful audio amplifiers, see if your fuel economy is worse when they are actively cycling or in use.

What Actually Works

Solutions should be attempted in order of cost and likelihood, based on owner-reported success.

1. Address Maintenance & Tire Pressure (High Success Rate, Low Cost): Inflate tires to the door jamb sticker's recommended pressure (not the tire's max pressure). Replace a dirty air filter and use a top-tier fuel system cleaner at your next fill-up. This is the absolute first and most effective step for most people.
2. Evaluate and Remove Accessories (Moderate Success Rate, Variable Cost): If you added large wheels, a roof rack, or a lift kit, consider returning to stock specifications if fuel economy is a priority. For air ride suspensions, ensure the system is leak-free and the ride height sensors are calibrated correctly.
3. Diagnose Mechanical Drag (High Success Rate if Problem Exists, Moderate Cost): Have your brakes inspected for seized calipers or slides. Jack up each wheel and spin it by hand; it should rotate freely with minimal drag. Have the wheel bearings and driveshaft (if RWD/AWD) checked for roughness or play.
4. Repair Engine Sensors (Moderate Success Rate, Moderate Cost): If diagnostics point to a faulty oxygen sensor, mass airflow (MAF) sensor, or coolant thermostat, replacing these can restore proper air-fuel mixture and engine temperature, directly improving MPG.
5. Adjust Driving Habits (Guaranteed Success, No Cost): Practice smooth acceleration, anticipate stops to coast more, and use cruise control on highways. Avoiding excessive idling and consolidating short trips can make a measurable difference.

Repair Costs

Costs vary dramatically based on the root cause and whether you DIY.

• DIY Maintenance (Cheapest): A quality air filter costs $15-$30. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner is $10-$20. Checking and adjusting tire pressure is free.
• Professional Maintenance Service: A standard service including oil change, new air filter, and tire rotation typically costs $80-$150.
• Brake Drag Repair: Replacing a seized brake caliper and pads on one axle can cost $300-$600 at a shop. DIY cost for parts is $150-$300.
• Wheel Bearing Replacement: Per wheel, shop costs range from $250-$450. DIY parts are $80-$150.
• Sensor Replacement: A critical oxygen sensor or MAF sensor replacement at a shop can run $200-$400. DIY parts are $60-$200.
• Suspension/Accessory Issues: Fixing a leak in an air ride suspension or compressor can be costly, ranging from $500 to over $1,500. Reverting aftermarket wheel options to stock involves the cost of finding used OEM wheels and tires.

Always start with the no-cost and low-cost diagnostics before moving to more expensive repairs.

Preventive Measures

The best way to fight poor fuel economy is consistent, proactive care. Stick to your vehicle’s scheduled maintenance for oil changes, filter replacements, and spark plugs. Make a monthly habit of checking your tire pressure. Be mindful of the fuel economy impact before adding permanent accessories or modifying your suspension and wheels. Use a fuel-tracking app or your trip computer to establish a normal MPG baseline for your driving patterns; this way, you'll notice a drop immediately and can address it before it gets worse. Finally, adopt a smooth, efficient driving style—it’s the cheapest performance and efficiency mod you can make.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.