How to Fix a Rattling Noise in Your 2020 Ford Explorer

What Drivers Experience

Owners reporting a rattling noise describe it as a persistent, often metallic-sounding vibration or clatter that seems to come from various locations. Based on the analysis of 100 discussions, the experience is highly dependent on driving conditions. Many report the noise is most prominent during acceleration, especially from a stop, suggesting a load-related issue with the drivetrain. Others notice it at specific speed ranges (often between 20-45 mph) or when the engine is under load, like going up a hill. A significant number of owners mention the rattle seems to emanate from underneath the vehicle, toward the center or rear, but pinpointing the exact origin from the driver's seat is consistently described as challenging. The noise is rarely present at idle and often disappears or changes when coasting, which is a critical clue for diagnosis.

Pinpointing the Issue

Diagnosing a rattle requires systematic elimination because sound travels through the vehicle's frame. Start by identifying the when and where. Have a passenger help listen, or use a smartphone to record audio from different areas of the cabin and under the hood.

1. Reproduce the Conditions: Drive and note the exact circumstances: Is it during cold starts? Light acceleration? Highway speeds? Does it change when turning?
2. Preliminary Visual Check: Safely jack up the vehicle (use jack stands) and perform a thorough visual inspection of the undercarriage. Look for anything loose: heat shields, exhaust brackets, skid plates, or debris caught in the underbody.
3. The "Load" Test: In a safe, open area, try to reproduce the noise by gently "loading" and "unloading" the drivetrain. Apply light throttle, then coast. A noise that appears on throttle and disappears on coast often points to the driveshaft or related components.
4. Component-Specific Checks:
   • Exhaust/Heat Shields: Tap components with a rubber mallet to elicit a tell-tale rattle.
   • Fans: With the engine OFF and cool, wiggle the radiator and condenser fan blades to check for bearing play or loose shrouds.
   • Interior: Check for loose items in glove boxes, center consoles, door pockets, and under seats.

Root Causes

Based on confirmed fixes from owner reports, the rattling noise typically stems from a few key areas. Loose or damaged heat shields around the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, or underbody are the most common culprits, accounting for a large portion of easily resolved cases. The second major category involves the drivetrain, where a worn driveshaft center support bearing, failing U-joints, or a loose AWD module/transfer case mount can create a pronounced rotational rattle. Engine-related rattles from loose radiator fans or fan shrouds are also frequent, especially at certain RPMs. Finally, issues in the rear end, such as worn differential mounts or loose suspension components, can transmit a rattling noise forward through the chassis.

Verified Fixes

Ranked from most common/least expensive to more involved:

1. Secure Loose Heat Shields & Exhaust Components (Most Common Fix): This is the first and cheapest place to look. Use high-temperature hose clamps, metal zip ties, or welding to re-secure rattling heat shields. Also, check all exhaust hangers and brackets for integrity.
2. Tighten or Replace Radiator Fan Assembly: If the rattle is more prominent at idle or low speeds with the A/C on, inspect the cooling fans. Tighten any loose mounting bolts. If the fan motor bearings are worn (indicated by wobble or grinding), the entire fan assembly may need replacement.
3. Inspect and Replace Driveshaft Components: For acceleration-specific rattles from the vehicle's center, the driveshaft is suspect. The center support bearing is a common failure point. A worn bearing or failed U-joint requires replacement. In some cases, the entire driveshaft may need to be re-balanced or replaced.
4. ​​Check AWD/Transfer Case Mounts: Some owners have resolved persistent rattles by discovering broken or softened mounts for the AWD power transfer unit. Replacing these mounts can eliminate a load-bearing vibration.
5. Professional Driveline Diagnosis: If the above checks yield nothing, the issue may be internal to the differential, transfer case, or a worn transmission mount. This typically requires professional assessment with a stethoscope or chassis ears to isolate.

Required Parts

The parts needed depend entirely on the root cause:

• For Heat Shields: High-temperature metal hose clamps, large diameter (often 12"+), or exhaust repair tape/bandages as a temporary fix.
• For Cooling Fans: Replacement fan motor, fan clutch, or entire fan/shroud assembly. Basic hand tools (sockets, screwdrivers) are required.
• For Driveshaft: Center support bearing kit, U-joints, or a remanufactured driveshaft. Specialized tools like a press for U-joints and a torque wrench are often needed.
• For Mounts: Engine, transmission, or AWD module mounts. Jack, jack stands, and tools to support the engine/component during replacement are critical for safety.
• General Tools: Floor jack, quality jack stands, rubber mallet, flashlight, and mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver (for listening to bearings).

Pricing Guide

Costs vary widely based on the fix and DIY vs. professional labor:

• DIY Heat Shield Repair: $10 - $50 for clamps and materials.
• Radiator Fan Replacement (DIY): Part costs range from $100 - $400. Labor is 1-2 hours for a competent DIYer.
• Driveshaft Center Bearing (DIY): Part kit: $50 - $150. Labor is intensive (2-4 hours), often requiring removal of exhaust and heat shields for access.
• Professional Repair: Shop rates ($100-$150/hr) add significantly.
  • Heat Shield Securing: $100 - $200
  • Fan Replacement: $300 - $600+ (parts & labor)
  • Driveshaft Bearing/U-Joint Service: $400 - $800+
  • Full Driveshaft Replacement: $800 - $1,500+
  • Differential/Transfer Case Inspection: $150+ for diagnosis alone.

Insider Tips

• The Chassis Ear Trick: You can mimic a professional chassis ear by using a long screwdriver or metal rod. Place the tip on the component you suspect (like the transmission or differential) and carefully put the handle to your ear (keep clear of moving parts!). The sound will travel through the rod, helping isolate the source.
• Check the Simple Stuff First: One owner's "drivetrain rattle" was traced to a completely loose spare tire bouncing in its well. Another was a jack or tool left in a side compartment. Do a full interior and trunk tidy-up first.
• Heat Shield Wisdom: If a heat shield is only slightly loose, sometimes you can simply bend a tab of the metal to create tension against the frame or exhaust pipe, eliminating the rattle without clamps.
• Document Before Disassembly: If you're taking things apart to get to the driveshaft, take photos with your phone at each step. It makes reassembly much easier, especially for bolt lengths and routing of brackets.
• Beware of "While You're In There": If you're replacing a driveshaft center bearing due to age/mileage, strongly consider replacing the U-joints at the same time. The labor to access them is 90% done, and new joints prevent a near-future repeat repair.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.