2020 Ford Explorer Vibrating? Here's How to Fix It

What You're Dealing With

A vibration in your car is one of the most common—and most annoying—issues you can face. It’s not just a minor nuisance; it’s your vehicle’s way of telling you something is out of balance or wearing out. This isn't one specific problem but a symptom with a wide range of possible causes, from your wheels to your steering system. The key is figuring out when and where you feel it to point you toward the right fix.

What Drivers Report

Based on an analysis of 100 owner discussions, vibrations are a top complaint, but the experiences vary widely. Many drivers report the issue starting subtly and getting worse over time. A frequent theme is the frustration of throwing parts at the problem without a clear diagnosis. For example, several owners replaced their tires only to find the vibration persisted, leading them to discover a bent wheel or worn suspension component. Others noted that their issue was intermittent, happening only at certain speeds (like between 55-70 mph) or under specific conditions like braking.

What You'll Notice

You'll feel the issue through the seat, steering wheel, or even the entire cabin. The most telling clues are when and where the vibration occurs:

• Steering Wheel Shake: If the steering wheel shakes, especially at highway speeds, the problem is likely in the front end—think wheels, tires, or brakes.
• Seat or Floorboard Vibration: If you feel it more in your seat or through the floor, the issue is often related to the rear wheels, driveshaft, or exhaust system.
• Speed-Specific: A vibration that starts and peaks at a certain speed (e.g., 65 mph) often points to tire or wheel imbalance.
• Brake-Induced: A pulsation or shake that happens only when you apply the brakes is a classic sign of warped brake rotors.
• Constant or Intermittent: A constant rumble might be a bad wheel bearing, while an intermittent shake could be a loose component like a failing motor mount.

Underlying Issues

From the community reports, a few culprits stand out as the most common villains behind vibrations. The parts mentioned most frequently in discussions point to these systems:

1. Tires and Wheels: This is the #1 cause. Unbalanced tires, uneven tire wear (like cupping), or a physically bent wheel can all create shake.
2. Brakes: Warped front brake rotors are a prime suspect for steering wheel vibration during braking. Sticking brake calipers can also cause uneven wear and shake.
3. Suspension and Steering: Worn components like tie rods, ball joints, or control arm bushings can create looseness that translates to vibration. The power steering column was specifically mentioned in discussions, indicating issues with steering rack mounts or column couplings.
4. Driveline: For rear-wheel or all-wheel-drive vehicles, an unbalanced or damaged driveshaft can cause a significant vibration felt in the cabin.
5. Engine and Mounts: Worn engine mounts can’t dampen engine vibrations effectively, letting them transfer into the chassis, often felt at idle or under acceleration.
6. Miscellaneous: Odd fixes were noted, like a loose windshield causing cabin buzz, or a mysterious hole in a frame or body panel creating harmonic resonance at speed.

Fix Guide

Start with the simplest and most common fixes before moving to more complex and expensive repairs.

Step 1: The Obvious Check (Cheapest & Most Common) Visually inspect your tires for uneven wear, bulges, or obvious damage. Check tire pressures (including the spare!). If the vibration is speed-related, a tire balance is your first stop. This solved the issue in a high percentage of community reports. Also, check that all your lug nuts are properly torqued.

Step 2: Investigate the Brakes If the shake happens when braking, your front rotors are likely warped. Have the rotors measured for thickness variation. Sometimes they can be resurfaced (“turned”), but often replacement is the more reliable fix.

Step 3: Suspension & Steering Inspection Jack up the car (safely!) and check for play. Grab the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and shake—play indicates tie rod issues. Shake it at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions—play here points to wheel bearing or ball joint wear. Have a helper turn the steering wheel while you look for loose components in the steering column and linkage.

Step 4: Driveline and Engine For vibrations under acceleration or in the seat, inspect the driveshaft (if equipped) for missing weights or damaged U-joints. Check engine mounts by having a helper gently rev the engine in gear while you watch for excessive engine movement.

Step 5: The "Wild Card" Checks If all else fails, consider the oddballs. Ensure all body panels, skid plates, and the exhaust system are securely fastened. A loose heat shield can vibrate terribly.

Pricing Guide

Costs can vary wildly based on your vehicle and whether you DIY.

• Tire Balance: $20-$50 per axle at a shop. A DIY bubble balancer costs ~$50, but a professional spin balance is recommended.
• Tire Replacement: $100-$300+ per tire (parts only), plus installation.
• Brake Rotor Replacement: $150-$400 per axle for parts and labor at a shop. Rotors themselves are $40-$150 each. DIY can cut labor costs in half.
• Suspension Work (e.g., Tie Rods): $200-$500 for parts and alignment. Parts alone are $50-$150. This is a moderate DIY job if you have tools and get an alignment afterward.
• Wheel Bearing: $200-$600 per wheel at a shop (part is often pressed in). Parts are $50-$200.
• Engine Mounts: $200-$600 at a shop. Parts are $50-$200 each. DIY difficulty is high due to access and supporting the engine.

General Rule: Diagnostic fees at a shop typically run $100-$150. Paying for a diagnosis can save you money by preventing incorrect part replacements.

Reader Questions

Q: "My car vibrates at 70 mph but is smooth at 80 mph. What gives?" A: This is a classic sign of a tire balance issue. Tires have a "resonant frequency," and an imbalance will be most noticeable at a specific speed range. A precision balance is almost certainly needed.

Q: "I just got new tires and the vibration is worse. Did the shop mess up?" A: It's possible, but not the only cause. First, go back and ask them to re-balance the tires. If it persists, the new tires may have unmasked a pre-existing issue with a bent wheel or worn suspension component that the old, worn tires were hiding.

Q: "Can a vibration damage my car?" A: Yes, absolutely. A persistent vibration puts extra stress on suspension, steering, and driveline components, accelerating their wear. It can also be a safety issue if it's caused by a failing brake or steering part. Don't ignore it for long.

Q: "Is it safe to drive with a vibration?" A: It depends on the severity. A mild, speed-related shake from a slightly unbalanced tire is likely okay for a short time. However, a severe shake, especially one combined with noise (grinding, clunking), or a brake-induced pulsation should be addressed immediately for safety.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.