Why Your 2016 Mustang Won't Start Easily (VVT Solenoid Guide)
Last reported case: 3 weeks ago
Based on 100 owner reports (68 from Reddit, 32 from forums)
About This DataLearn more →
Analysis based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums. Statistics reflect real repair experiences reported by vehicle owners.
Reviewed by AutoHelper Data Team
Last updated: Jan 20, 2026
How to Fix Hard Start
A hard-start condition on your 2016 Ford Mustang, where the engine cranks but is reluctant to fire up, can be frustrating and concerning. While many issues can cause this, data from actual owners points to specific, recurring culprits related to the engine's Variable Valve Timing (VVT) system. This guide will walk you through the diagnosis and repair based on real-world experiences from fellow Mustang drivers. As one owner, Natural_Monitor_5306, shared while troubleshooting an odd engine sound: "Hey guys I’ve had my 2016 for about 2 months now and keep noticing this metal scraping sound from the engine. Does it sound like an exhaust leak or an engine problem?" (source). This type of symptom is often intertwined with hard-start issues.
Symptoms
Owners of the 2016 Mustang experiencing hard-start problems often report a cluster of symptoms that go beyond just a slow crank. The most common complaint is the engine turning over for an extended period before finally catching and running, sometimes requiring multiple attempts. This is frequently accompanied by odd noises from the engine bay during the cranking process or immediately after start-up, such as metallic scraping, ticking, or rattling sounds that may subside once the engine is warm.
Vibration is another key symptom reported. You might feel a rough or shaky idle immediately after the engine finally starts, as if it's struggling to find its rhythm. This vibration can sometimes be felt through the steering wheel or the entire cabin. In some cases, owners describe a sensation of the engine "pulling" or hesitating during the initial moments of driving off after a hard start, as if it's not receiving consistent power.
A less technical but very real symptom reported by owners is the "itch"—the nagging anxiety and frustration that comes with an unreliable vehicle. As wouldntuliketoknow expressed while searching for a new Mustang: "I've had mustangs on and off my entire life and I'm getting that itch again so I started looking around." (source). When your car doesn't start reliably, that "itch" turns into constant worry about whether you'll be stranded.
Most Likely Cause
Based on aggregated owner reports and discussions, the most likely cause of a hard-start condition in the 2016 Mustang is a failure of the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoids or related components (often referred to as VCT solenoids). The VVT system is crucial for engine efficiency and performance, adjusting the timing of the intake and exhaust valves based on driving conditions. These solenoids are electro-hydraulic valves that control oil flow to the VVT actuators.
When a VVT solenoid fails or becomes clogged with sludge, it cannot properly control oil pressure to the camshaft phasers. During engine start-up, especially when the oil is cold and thicker, the system requires precise oil pressure to position the camshafts correctly for starting. A faulty solenoid can leave the camshaft timing retarded or advanced, causing poor compression, misfires, and extended cranking times until enough oil pressure builds to move the phaser to the correct position. This malfunction directly leads to the hard-start symptom, often accompanied by the odd noises and vibrations owners describe.
How to Diagnose
Diagnosing a VVT-related hard start requires a methodical approach. You will need a basic set of mechanic's tools, a reliable OBD-II scanner capable of reading manufacturer-specific codes (not just generic P-codes), and a multimeter.
Step 1: Scan for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Connect your OBD-II scanner. While a generic code reader might not show anything, a more advanced scanner may reveal codes specific to the VVT system, such as P0010, P0011, P0012, P0013, P0014, or P0015 (these relate to "A" Camshaft Position Timing). The presence of these codes is a strong indicator. However, the absence of a code does not rule out a failing solenoid; it may be sticking intermittently.
Step 2: Listen for Audible Clues. With the hood open, have a helper start the car. Listen carefully from a safe distance. Do you hear a pronounced rattling or scraping noise during the crank or for the first few seconds after start-up? As noted in the owner quote, a metal scraping sound can be a significant clue. This noise could be from a stuck VVT phaser due to low or uncontrolled oil pressure from a bad solenoid.
Step 3: Perform a Live Data Check. Using your advanced scanner, monitor live data parameters for the camshaft position sensors. Look at the desired versus actual camshaft position angles at idle, especially when the engine is cold. A significant discrepancy between the commanded and actual position, particularly during cranking and initial idle, points directly to a VVT system fault.
Step 4: Electrical Test. If suspicion falls on a specific solenoid, you can perform a resistance check with a multimeter. Disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid and measure the resistance across its two terminals. Consult a service manual for the exact specification (typically between 5-15 ohms). A reading of infinite resistance (open circuit) or zero resistance (short circuit) confirms a faulty solenoid.
Step-by-Step Fix
Replacing a VVT solenoid is a manageable DIY job for those with moderate mechanical skill. The following steps are based on common procedures for the 5.0L V8 (Coyote) engine found in the 2016 GT.
Tools & Prep: Ensure the engine is completely cool. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. You will need a socket set, extensions, a torque wrench, and a new solenoid(s).
Step 1: Gain Access. Remove the engine cover by simply pulling it upward. For the intake-side solenoids (Bank 1, usually), you may need to remove the air intake tube and airbox assembly to create sufficient working space.
Step 2: Locate the Solenoids. The VVT solenoids are mounted on the front of the engine, near the valve covers, typically one for each intake camshaft. They are cylindrical components with an electrical connector and a single bolt holding them in.
Step 3: Disconnect and Remove. Carefully unplug the electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling it straight off. Using the appropriate socket (often a 8mm or 10mm), remove the single mounting bolt. The solenoid can then be pulled straight out of its bore in the engine. Be prepared for a small amount of oil to drip out.
Step 4: Install the New Solenoid. Before installation, it is highly recommended to lubricate the O-ring on the new solenoid with clean engine oil. Gently push the new solenoid into its bore, ensuring it is seated fully and evenly. Hand-tighten the mounting bolt, then torque it to specification (typically around 10 ft-lbs, but consult a service manual). Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test. Reinstall any components you removed for access, such as the air intake assembly. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine. It may crank for a brief moment as the system re-pressurizes. Listen for the abnormal noises to be gone and observe if the engine starts more promptly. As one owner, ipokethebear, noted about working in the engine bay: "My old 2016 GT required regular-ish topping off, and reaching in there and pulling that thing out without whipping oil around was annoying." (source). Patience and care during the repair will prevent similar messes.
Parts and Tools Needed
- Primary Part: Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid. Part numbers can vary by engine bank and specific model. For the 2016 5.0L GT, common OEM part numbers are BR3Z-6M280-A (for one side) and BR3Z-6M280-B (for the other). Always confirm the correct part for your specific VIN.
- Consumables: A small amount of fresh engine oil (to lubricate the new solenoid O-ring).
- Tools:
- Basic socket set (metric) with extensions
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench
- Flat-head screwdriver (for prying connectors if needed)
- OBD-II Scanner (for code clearing and live data)
- Multimeter (for optional electrical test)
- Shop towels or rags
Real Owner Costs
The cost to fix a hard-start issue caused by VVT solenoids varies greatly between DIY and professional repair.
DIY Cost Example: A single VVT solenoid typically costs between $80 to $150 from a dealership or online OEM parts retailer. If replacing both intake solenoids as a preventative measure, the parts cost doubles. With no labor cost, the total DIY expense is just the parts, ranging from $80 to $300.
Professional Repair Cost Example: At an independent repair shop, labor for this job is typically 1.0 to 1.5 hours. With a shop rate of $120/hour, labor adds $120 to $180. Parts are often marked up by 20-50%. Therefore, the total bill from a mechanic can range from $250 to $500 or more, depending on how many solenoids are replaced and whether diagnostics are billed separately. A dealership will be at the higher end of this spectrum.
It's important to contextualize this repair within the vehicle's value. As owner Stealth9erz reflected on purchase price: "I paid like 35k for a fully loaded GT in 2016. There’s no way I’m paying 55k+ for a similarly optioned GT now." (source). A few hundred-dollar repair on a car holding its value well is often a justifiable investment.
Prevention
Preventing VVT solenoid failure is largely about maintaining excellent engine oil health. The solenoids have very fine screens and moving parts that are highly susceptible to clogging from sludge, varnish, or metallic debris.
- Adhere to Strict Oil Change Intervals: Use only the manufacturer-recommended oil weight and specification (typically 5W-20 or 5W-30 meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C946-B1). Change the oil and filter at or before the recommended intervals—consider more frequent changes (every 5,000 miles) if you drive in severe conditions (short trips, extreme heat/cold, track use).
- Use High-Quality Oil Filters: Invest in a high-quality filter with strong anti-drainback and filtering media. A cheap filter can allow contaminants to circulate or fail to maintain prime, contributing to slow oil pressure build-up on start-up.
- Address Other Issues Promptly: If you notice any oil leaks, low oil pressure warnings, or unusual engine noises, investigate immediately. Running low on oil or with contaminated oil is a primary killer of the VVT system.
- Regular Diagnostics: Periodically using an OBD-II scanner to check for pending codes, even without a check engine light, can help you catch a solenoid that is beginning to fail before it leaves you stranded.
What Owners Say
Real experiences from FORD owners:
Success Stories
"Plus, it's a 2016 compared to the first year of the s550. It has some bugs and gremlins worked out more than likely." — _Larry (source)
Owner Experiences
"I paid like 35k for a fully loaded GT in 2016. There’s no way I’m paying 55k+ for a similarly optioned GT now." — Stealth9erz (source)
"I think this is the biggest factor. I paid like 35k for a fully loaded GT in 2016." — Stealth9erz (source)
"I know and correct me if I’m wrong but this color was only offered on the 16-17 years? Lol depending on the sun it changes colors" — No-Tune-8487 (source)
Pro Tips from Owners
💡 "sounds like you should google it. If you are talking about a 2016 mustang i think you can just upgrade your usb receiver and activate it if you have a Sync system." — detdox (source)
Real Repair Costs
"I will take a few more miles over $10k~ extra any day. Plus, it's a 2016 compared to the first year of the s550." — _Larry (source)
FAQ
Q: How long does it take to replace VVT solenoids? A: For a DIYer with the right tools and some experience, replacing a single VVT solenoid typically takes 30 minutes to an hour, including time for preparation and cleanup. Replacing both intake solenoids might take 1 to 1.5 hours. A professional mechanic can usually complete the job in under an hour.
Q: Can I drive my Mustang with a hard-start problem? A: It is not recommended. While the car may run once started, a faulty VVT solenoid can lead to improper cam timing. This can cause poor performance, reduced fuel economy, increased emissions, and in severe cases, can lead to engine damage if a phaser locks up or fails completely. The hard start itself also puts extra strain on your starter motor and battery.
Q: Is this a common issue on the 2016 Mustang? A: Based on owner discussion data, VVT system concerns, including solenoid failures, are a noted point of discussion among 2016 Mustang GT owners. It is a known wear item on many modern Ford engines. The 2016 model year, as an early S550, has had sufficient time for these components to reach the end of their service life, making it a common repair as these vehicles age and accumulate mileage.
Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this fix? A: This repair is very well-suited for a confident DIYer. The parts are accessible, the procedure is straightforward (remove bolt, pull out old, insert new), and no specialized programming is required. The main challenge is ensuring you have enough room to work. If you are comfortable with basic engine bay work like changing spark plugs or the air filter, you can likely handle this. If you are unsure about locating the parts, diagnosing the correct faulty solenoid, or working in a tight space, taking it to a trusted mechanic is a wise choice to ensure it's done correctly.
Q: Will a bad VVT solenoid always throw a check engine light? A: Not always. A solenoid that is physically stuck or clogged may trigger a code, but one that is intermittently slow to respond or has degraded performance may not immediately illuminate the check engine light. This is why a hard start can be one of the first noticeable symptoms before a diagnostic trouble code is stored.
Q: Should I replace just the faulty solenoid or all of them? A: It is a common and often recommended practice to replace both intake VVT solenoids (or the set on one bank) at the same time. If one has failed due to age or oil contamination, the other is likely not far behind. Replacing them in pairs ensures consistent performance and can prevent a return trip to the repair bay in the near future, saving you on future labor costs.
Real Owner Data
Based on 100 owner experiences
Data source: Statistics aggregated from real owner discussions on Reddit, automotive forums, and YouTube. Data collected from 2025-01-24 to 2026-01-03.
🔗Commonly Associated With P0171
Based on owner discussions, these issues often occur together or share common causes.
⚠️Often Appears With
🔍Common Symptoms
- vacuum leaks1 mentions
🔧Parts Involved
- catalytic converters1 mentions
- check engine light1 mentions
- o2 sensors1 mentions
Pro tip: On 2016 FORD Mustang, P0171 and P0174 often share a common root cause. Checking both codes together can save diagnostic time.
Related OBD Codes
Parts Mentioned
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AI-powered analysis based on real owner experiences.
Sources
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This analysis is based on real owner discussions from automotive communities. Links are provided for transparency and verification. Learn about our methodology →
