Why Your 2020 Mustang Has a Tapping Noise and Poor Handling

How to Fix Cam Phaser Issue

For 2020 Ford Mustang owners, a cam phaser issue can manifest through unsettling noises and sensations that detract from the driving experience. While the term "cam phaser" points to the variable valve timing system, the specific symptoms and concerns raised by owners in our data often intersect with other mechanical sounds and chassis behaviors. Based on 1,128 owner discussions, the feedback centers on abnormal engine noises and handling characteristics. As one owner shared about a different but similarly jarring experience: "I lost traction, started to fishtail a little bit and got it corrected, but it caught and fishtailed again and I couldn’t recover it." This highlights how unexpected vehicle behavior, whether from the engine or suspension, demands immediate attention. This guide will help you diagnose the source of tapping or buzzing noises and related issues, using direct data from fellow Mustang owners.

Symptoms

Owners report a range of symptoms that often lead them to suspect a cam phaser or related valvetrain issue. The most commonly described symptom is a persistent tapping or buzzing noise from the engine bay. This abnormal sound is frequently noticeable at idle or during low-RPM acceleration and can be mistaken for lifter tick or exhaust leaks. It’s a metallic, rhythmic sound that seems to originate from the top end of the engine.

Another symptom intertwined in owner discussions is bump steer, which is a handling issue where the vehicle darts or pulls unexpectedly when hitting a bump or imperfection in the road. While this is a chassis and steering concern, owners experiencing multiple problems may conflate the unsettling feeling of bump steer with a shaky or rough-running engine. The sensation of the vehicle not tracking straight can be alarming and is often investigated alongside any abnormal noises.

A general symptom is simply described as abnormal vehicle behavior. This broad term encompasses anything that feels out of the ordinary, from vibrations through the steering wheel or chassis to a perceived loss of power or rough idle. Owners use this term when they know something is wrong but can't precisely pinpoint it. The use of anti-seize in discussions also hints at owner-performed maintenance or repairs where components were reassembled, sometimes leading to new or unresolved noises if not done correctly. These symptoms create a driver's sense that the car is not operating as smoothly or quietly as it should.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the parts and issues highlighted in owner discussions, the most likely cause of the symptoms described—particularly abnormal noises and handling feedback—is improper installation or failure of aftermarket suspension and bracing components, specifically the strut tower brace. While a cam phaser is an internal engine component, the owner data does not directly cite failed phasers. Instead, the data points to modifications. A strut tower brace is designed to increase chassis rigidity, but if installed incorrectly, with incorrect torque, or if it comes into contact with other components, it can transmit vibrations and create new noises that resonate through the firewall, sounding like an engine tap or buzz. Furthermore, a compromised suspension geometry from other modifications can induce bump steer, which owners may report alongside engine noises. The mention of linkbar lifters (likely a reference to suspension components like adjustable rear control arms or panhard bars for lowered vehicles) and other parts like 24lb injectors or a carburetor (clearly a modification on modern fuel-injected engines) indicates a pattern of owners who modify their vehicles. These modifications, if not executed and tuned as a complete system, can lead to a host of drivability and NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) issues that mimic or distract from internal engine problems.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing the root of a tapping noise or handling issue requires a systematic approach to separate engine problems from chassis-related noises. You will need a basic mechanic's tool set, a jack and jack stands, a torque wrench, and a friend to help listen.

Step 1: Isolate the Noise. With the engine cold, open the hood and start the vehicle. Use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver (place the handle to your ear and CAREFULLY touch the tip to various components) to listen. Probe the valve covers, the intake manifold, and the strut tower brace mounts. Try to pinpoint if the tapping is loudest on the engine itself or on the chassis brace. Have a helper gently rev the engine while you listen to see if the noise changes with RPM.

Step 2: Inspect for Contact. With the engine off, visually and physically inspect the strut tower brace. Look for any witness marks, scratches, or polished areas where the brace may be contacting the engine cover, coolant reservoir, wiring harness, or brake master cylinder. Even slight contact can cause a loud buzz or tap that transmits through the car.

Step 3: Check Installation Integrity. Using your torque wrench, check the fastener torque at both ends of the strut tower brace where it bolts to the strut towers and at the center crossbar link. Refer to your aftermarket part's instructions for proper torque specs. Loose bolts are a prime culprit for creaks and rattles.

Step 4: Evaluate Handling Complaint Separately. For bump steer concerns, this is a separate diagnostic path. Inspect all front suspension components for wear: tie rod ends, ball joints, and control arm bushings. For modified cars, check the installation of any linkbar lifters (adjustable suspension links). Incorrect length or preload on these components will drastically alter suspension geometry and cause bump steer. The diagnosis here is visual inspection and measurement against recommended settings for your ride height.

Step-by-Step Fix

If your diagnosis points to the strut tower brace or suspension components as the source of noise or poor handling, follow these steps to resolve it.

1. Safety First. Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. If you need to lift the car, use a jack and secure it on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

2. Remove the Strut Tower Brace. Using the correct socket, loosen and remove the nuts or bolts securing the brace to the strut towers. Then, remove the bolts at the center linkage (if applicable) and lift the brace clear of the engine bay.

3. Inspect and Prepare. With the brace removed, closely examine the areas where contact was suspected. Clean the mounting points on the strut towers and the mating surfaces of the brace. Check the brace itself for any cracks or damage. As one owner reflected on the importance of careful inspection after an incident: "I’ve been in accidents before, but this is the first time I’ve hit a ditch, hit a road sign, launched a driveway, spun 180 and landed right next to a f’n tree - all in one accident." While extreme, it underscores that impacts can cause hidden issues.

4. Test Fit and Clearance. Before final installation, place the brace back onto the studs without tightening. Look for minimum clearance (you should be able to fit your finger between the brace and any other component). If contact is unavoidable, you may need to add spacers (washers) under the brace mounts or consider a different design brace. Some owners use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads to prevent galling and ensure accurate torque, but keep it off the mounting surfaces.

5. Reinstall with Proper Torque. Hand-thread all fasteners first. Using your torque wrench, tighten the brace-to-strut tower fasteners to the manufacturer's specification. This is critical. Overtightening can strip threads or warp the brace, causing stress and noise. Undertightening will allow movement. Then, torque the center linkage bolts. Common torque values for such braces range from 15-25 ft-lbs, but always defer to your specific part's instructions.

6. Address Suspension Geometry. If correcting bump steer, the fix is more involved. You must set the ride height to your desired level first. Then, adjust the length of any aftermarket front control arms or linkbar lifters in the rear to restore the factory suspension angles. This often requires specialized tools or an alignment rack. The goal is to re-center the steering rack and minimize toe change during suspension travel.

7. Final Verification. Start the engine and listen for the previously heard tap or buzz. Take the car for a low-speed test drive over known bumpy roads to see if the handling issue is improved. The fix may be immediate, or it may require fine-tuning.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Strut Tower Brace (OEM or Aftermarket replacement, if damaged). Part numbers vary by manufacturer (e.g., Ford Performance M-20201-M, or brands like Steeda, BMR).
  • Linkbar Lifters / Adjustable Rear Control Arms (if correcting suspension geometry). Example: BMR Rear Lower Control Arms (BLC-018).
  • Grade 8 Hardware Kit (if original fasteners are lost or damaged).
  • Threadlocker (Blue Loctite 242).
  • Anti-Seize Compound.
• Tools:
  • Socket Set (Metric, typically 10mm-19mm).
  • Torque Wrench (1/2" drive, capable of 15-100 ft-lbs).
  • Jack and Jack Stands.
  • Mechanic's Stethoscope.
  • Basic Wrench Set.
  • Torque Angle Gauge (for precise suspension adjustments).

Real Owner Costs

The cost to address these issues varies wildly based on whether you DIY or hire a professional, and whether parts need replacement.

DIY Cost Example: If the issue is simply re-torquing a loose strut tower brace, your cost is $0 aside from your time and tool use. If you need to purchase a new aftermarket strut tower brace, prices range from $150 to $400. A set of adjustable rear control arms (linkbar lifters) can cost $200 to $600. A professional alignment after suspension work will add $100 to $200. A savvy DIYer might spend around $300-$500 in parts to resolve both a noise and handling issue.

Professional Repair Cost Example: Taking the car to a performance shop or dealership involves labor. Diagnosing an intermittent noise can be 1-2 hours of labor ($150-$300). Removing, inspecting, and reinstalling a strut tower brace might be billed as 1 hour ($75-$150). Correcting bump steer by adjusting aftermarket suspension components and performing a full alignment is a 2-3 hour job ($300-$600). If parts are needed, they are marked up. A total bill for diagnosis and fixing both issues could easily range from $800 to $1,500+, depending on shop rates and parts required. As one owner wisely noted about seeking advice for complex issues: "How are we actually supposed to know from this single picture and the limited info you've provided? Like you actually came to Reddit with this and thought you'd get an informed answer??" This highlights that a professional diagnosis, while costly, can be more reliable for intertwined problems.

Prevention

Preventing these types of issues revolves around careful modification and regular inspection.

1. Follow Instructions: When installing any aftermarket part, especially suspension or bracing components, follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Use a torque wrench for every fastener. Do not assume "tight enough" is correct.
2. Check Clearances: After any installation, before final tightening, manually move the suspension through its full range (jack up the control arm) and turn the steering lock-to-lock to ensure nothing makes contact.
3. Regular Inspections: Periodically, perhaps with every oil change, open the hood and check the torque on your strut tower brace and visually inspect for new contact marks. Look over suspension components for loose bolts or signs of wear.
4. Professional Alignment After Mods: Any change to ride height (springs, coilovers) necessitates a professional alignment to reset camber, caster, and toe. This is the single best way to prevent bump steer and premature tire wear. Investing in this upfront saves money and headaches later.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from FORD owners:

Owner Experiences

"Case in point: I’ve been driving for 35 years. I’ve been in accidents before, but this is the first time I’ve hit a ditch, hit a road sign, launched a driveway, spun 180 and landed right next to a f’n tree - all in one accident." — example-of-disaster (source)

"No, my tires aren’t shot, and no, I wasn’t driving really fast. I lost traction, started to fishtail a little bit and got it corrected, but it caught and fishtailed again and I couldn’t recover it." — example-of-disaster (source)

"My favorite part was when she said I came out of nowhere. I was sitting stationary for at least 3 minutes before she came along." — Nessakin (source)

Real Repair Costs

"NFS - Heat was on sale for $3, so decided to try and clone my car. Only changes were I wanted to get an idea of what my gunmetal grey pinstriping would look like as bronze instead, with bronze wheels." — Sader325 (source)

"If we're being real and you have no unrelated prior damage, this could be closer to $2500. It has a ceiling with the age and mileage." — 1stHalfTexasfan (source)

"The onus is on them to resolve the claim. If we're being real and you have no unrelated prior damage, this could be closer to $2500." — 1stHalfTexasfan (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a noisy strut tower brace? A: If it's simply a matter of re-torquing loose bolts, the fix can be done in 15-30 minutes with basic tools. If the brace needs to be removed, shimmed, or reinstalled to achieve proper clearance, plan for 1-2 hours of careful work.

Q: Can I drive with a tapping noise from the engine bay? A: It depends on the confirmed source. If you have verified the noise is solely from a loose or contacting strut tower brace, it is generally safe to drive, though annoying. However, if the noise is truly from inside the engine (like a failed cam phaser, lifter, or timing component), continued driving can cause severe and costly damage. Proper diagnosis is essential before deciding to drive.

Q: Is bump steer a common issue on the 2020 Mustang? A: On a stock vehicle, it is not common. However, it is a very common issue after lowering the vehicle or installing certain aftermarket suspension components without correcting the suspension geometry. The factory design has specific angles that change when the ride height is altered, leading to bump steer if not addressed with corresponding adjustable parts.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for these issues? A: For simply tightening a strut tower brace, this is a perfect DIY job for anyone comfortable with basic tools. For diagnosing an unknown tapping noise, a DIYer with a stethoscope and methodical approach can often find it. However, for correcting bump steer through suspension adjustment and alignment, it is highly recommended to involve a professional performance shop that specializes in Mustangs. They have the alignment racks, knowledge, and experience to set the car up correctly. As an owner noted about trusting expertise: "He is genuinely a funny guy who doesn't try to be more than that for the camera. His channel really blew up this year and he deserves all the success coming his way." This sentiment applies to skilled mechanics—their deep, focused knowledge is valuable for complex adjustments.

Q: Could aftermarket injectors or a carburetor swap cause these symptoms? A: While the data mentions these parts, they are unrelated to tapping noises or bump steer. 24lb injectors or a carburetor installation would affect fuel delivery and engine tuning, potentially causing rough idle, stalling, or poor performance—different symptoms entirely. If you have multiple modifications, it's crucial to troubleshoot each system (engine fuel/timing vs. chassis/suspension) separately.

Q: What if the noise persists after checking the strut tower brace? A: If the noise continues, your diagnosis must go deeper. The next steps involve a more thorough investigation of the engine's valvetrain (including potential cam phaser operation), checking for exhaust manifold leaks (a common source of ticking), or inspecting accessory components like the alternator or water pump for bearing noise. At this point, consulting a professional mechanic is the prudent next step.