How to Fix a Clicking Noise on Your 2013 Honda Accord

Warning Signs

Owners reporting a clicking noise describe a consistent, rhythmic ticking sound that varies with vehicle speed. The most common characteristic is that the noise's frequency increases directly with wheel speed—faster driving produces faster clicking. It is often first noticed at low speeds (15-35 mph) and can sometimes be felt as a slight vibration through the steering wheel or floorboard. A key diagnostic clue reported in numerous discussions is that the noise persists regardless of whether the brakes are applied or not, which helps isolate it from brake-related issues. In several cases, the noise was present during both acceleration and coasting.

Diagnostic Process

A systematic approach is required to pinpoint a speed-dependent click. First, determine if the noise is engine-speed related or wheel-speed related. Drive at a constant speed where the click is audible and briefly shift the transmission to Neutral. If the clicking frequency drops immediately with the decrease in wheel speed, the issue is almost certainly in the wheel assembly or drivetrain, not the engine.

The next critical step is the "swerve test." While driving in a safe, empty area, gently swerve the vehicle left and right. If the noise changes (often gets louder when loading one side and quieter when loading the other), it strongly points to a faulty wheel bearing. If the noise remains constant, focus on rotational components like the CV axle or a loose hubcap.

For a stationary check, safely jack up the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Spin each wheel by hand while listening and feeling for roughness, play, or a clicking sound. Manually check for play by gripping the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and rocking it; any in-and-out movement indicates a bad wheel bearing. Also, inspect the CV axle boots for tears or leaks of grease, and physically check that hubcaps or wheel center caps are securely fastened.

Likely Culprits

Based on the analysis of 100 owner discussions, the root causes for a speed-dependent clicking noise, in order of prevalence, are:

1. Loose or Damaged Hubcap/Wheel Cover: This is the most frequently reported and simplest cause. A plastic hubcap that is not fully seated or has a broken retaining clip can click against the wheel lug nuts or wheel face with each rotation.
2. Failing CV Joint (Outer): A worn outer Constant Velocity (CV) joint, typically on the front axle of FWD or AWD vehicles, will produce a pronounced clicking noise, especially during turns. The inner CV joint usually causes a vibration under acceleration rather than a click.
3. Worn Wheel Bearing: While a severely worn bearing often produces a constant growling or humming, early stages of failure can manifest as a rhythmic clicking or popping sound, particularly if a bearing roller is chipped or pitted.
4. Foreign Object in Tread: A rock, nail, or other debris lodged in the tire tread can produce a surprisingly loud, regular clicking sound as it strikes the pavement with each revolution.
5. Engine/Starter Issues (Less Common for Speed-Related Click): A faulty starter drive gear or a failing alternator bearing can cause a rapid clicking, but this is typically tied to engine RPM or occurs during engine cranking, not vehicle speed. The OBD code P3497 (Cylinder Deactivation System Bank 2) was mentioned in conjunction with engine-related noises but is not a direct cause of a wheel-speed click.

Proven Fixes

Ranked by cost and frequency of success:

1. Inspect and Secure Hubcaps/Wheel Covers (Very High Success Rate): Remove all hubcaps, clean the mounting surfaces on the wheel, and re-install them firmly, ensuring all clips are engaged. If a clip is broken, replace the hubcap or secure it with a zip-tie as a temporary fix. This resolved the issue in a significant plurality of reported cases.
2. Remove Debris from Tires (High Success Rate): Visually inspect all tire treads and use a screwdriver or pry tool to dislodge any pebbles, nails, or other objects stuck in the grooves.
3. Replace Outer CV Axle Assembly (High Success Rate for Turn-Related Click): If the click is loudest during turns and the CV boot is damaged, replacing the entire CV axle shaft is the standard repair. Opting for a remanufactured or new OEM-quality axle is recommended over the cheapest options.
4. Replace Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Confirmed Fix for Bearing Play): If wheel play is detected, the hub and bearing assembly must be replaced. This is a press-in job on some vehicles and a bolt-on unit on others. Proper torque during installation is critical.
5. Diagnose Engine-Accessory Noises: If the noise is confirmed to be engine-speed related, further diagnosis of the starter, alternator, or tensioner pulleys is needed. A mechanic's stethoscope can help isolate the sound.

Required Parts

The parts and tools needed depend entirely on the diagnosis:

• For Hubcap Fix: Possibly new hubcap(s) or wheel clips.
• For CV Axle Replacement: CV axle assembly (part numbers vary by vehicle), axle nut (often a one-time-use part), new cotter pin, gear oil if applicable. Tools include a jack and stands, socket set, torque wrench, pry bar, and a large breaker bar for the axle nut (often torqued to 180-250 ft-lbs).
• For Wheel Bearing Replacement: Wheel bearing/hub assembly, new axle nut, and possibly new hub bolts. Tools include all standard tools plus a hub removal tool or press for press-in bearings, and a high-torque torque wrench.
• General Tools: Jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set, torque wrench, pry bar, and mechanic's stethoscope.

Cost Analysis

• DIY Cost (Parts Only):
  • Hubcap Set: $20 - $150
  • Quality Remanufactured CV Axle: $80 - $200 per side
  • Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly: $50 - $250 per corner (bolt-on units are typically more expensive than press-in bearings).
• Professional Repair Cost (Parts & Labor):
  • Hubcap Fix/Replacement: Minimal if just securing; otherwise, part cost plus ~0.3 hours labor.
  • CV Axle Replacement: $300 - $600 per side. Labor is typically 1.5-2.5 hours.
  • Wheel Bearing Replacement: $250 - $500 per wheel. Labor varies greatly (1-3 hours) depending on whether it's a bolt-on hub (faster) or requires a press (slower).

DIY savings are substantial for these repairs, often cutting the total cost by 50% or more. The CV axle and hub bearing repairs are within the capability of a seasoned DIYer with proper tools and safety procedures.

Useful Tips

• The Penny Test: Before disassembling anything, check tire tread depth. An excessively worn tire with exposed steel belts or tread wear indicators can sometimes create a clicking sound.
• Listen Locally: Use a chassis ear or a simple mechanic's stethoscope (with the probe removed) to pinpoint the noise. You can often route the hose near different components while driving to isolate the source.
• Torque is Critical: When replacing a CV axle or wheel bearing, always use a torque wrench for the final axle nut and lug nut tightening. Under- or over-torquing can lead to rapid bearing failure or a dangerous loose wheel. Refer to factory service specifications for your model.
• Check the Simple Stuff First: The overwhelming consensus from forum discussions is to physically remove, inspect, and re-seat all four hubcaps as the absolute first step. It costs nothing and solves a majority of these complaints.
• Beware of Cheap Parts: Especially for CV axles and wheel bearings, budget parts from unknown brands have a high failure rate. Investing in OEM, OEM-equivalent, or reputable aftermarket brands (like SKF, Timken, NTN, GKN) will prevent a repeat repair.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.