2015 Honda Accord: What To Do When You Have No Power
Quick Facts
100 sourcesLast reported case: 4 weeks ago
Based on 100 owner reports (80 from Reddit, 20 from forums)
About This DataLearn more →
Analysis based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums. Statistics reflect real repair experiences reported by vehicle owners.
Reviewed by AutoHelper Data Team
Last updated: Jan 17, 2026
The Basics
"No power" is a broad complaint from owners describing a significant loss of engine performance. The vehicle may feel sluggish, struggle to accelerate, or fail to reach highway speeds. This is distinct from a no-start condition. Based on 100 discussions, this issue is often related to fuel, air, or electronic management systems rather than a single catastrophic failure.
Signs to Watch For
Owners consistently report these specific symptoms:
- Severe lack of acceleration, especially when merging or climbing hills.
- The engine feels "gutless" or "strained," even at full throttle.
- RPMs may climb slowly or the transmission may seem to hunt for gears.
- In some cases, warning lights for the vehicle stability system or other electronic controls may illuminate concurrently.
Likely Culprits
Analysis of successful fixes points to a few common areas:
- Fuel Delivery Issues: Clogged fuel filters or failing fuel pumps are the most frequently cited causes. A weak pump cannot supply adequate pressure.
- Air Intake/Exhaust Blockages: A severely dirty air filter or, less commonly, a clogged catalytic converter can strangle the engine.
- Electronic Throttle/Sensor Failures: Problems with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, throttle position sensor, or electronic throttle body can cause the engine computer to limit power.
- Ancillary System Drains: In several reports, a malfunction in an unrelated system (like a short in the daytime running light module) created an electrical load that seemingly impacted engine management performance.
Pinpointing the Issue
Start with simple, free checks before replacing parts.
- Check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs): Even if the check engine light is off, use an OBD2 scanner. Pending codes related to fuel trim, airflow, or throttle position are strong clues.
- Perform a Visual Inspection: Check the air filter. Inspect for cracked/disconnected air intake hoses between the filter and engine.
- Listen for the Fuel Pump: When you turn the key to "ON" (before starting), you should hear a brief whirring/hum from the fuel tank for 2-3 seconds. Its absence suggests a pump issue.
- Rule Out "False Culprits": Ensure the brakes are not dragging and that the coolant level is correct, as overheating can cause power reduction. These were often initial suspicions that were ruled out.
Fix Guide
Ranked from most common/least expensive to more involved.
- Replace Air Filter & Clean MAF Sensor (DIY - Very High Success Rate): If the air filter is dirty, replace it. Use MAF sensor cleaner (not brake cleaner) on the thin wire inside the sensor. This solved the issue in numerous reports and costs under $50.
- Replace Fuel Filter (DIY/Shop - High Success Rate): If your vehicle has a serviceable in-line fuel filter, replacing it is a cheap and effective next step. Part cost: $15-$50.
- Diagnose/Replace Fuel Pump (Moderate DIY/Shop): If the above steps fail, fuel pump testing is needed. A mechanic can check fuel pressure. Replacement is a common fix. Conflicting Solution Note: Some owners reported resolving similar symptoms by addressing electrical shorts in other systems (e.g., daytime running light modules). Before replacing the pump, ensure no other electrical anomalies are present.
- Professional Diagnostics for Electronics/Exhaust (Shop): If power loss is accompanied by vehicle stability system warnings or poor performance at high RPMs, professional diagnosis for throttle body issues or a restricted catalytic converter is needed.
Real Owner Costs
- DIY (Air Filter/MAF Clean/ Fuel Filter): $20 - $100 for parts. Requires basic tools.
- Fuel Pump Replacement:
- Part: $150 - $400
- Shop Labor: 2-4 hours ($200 - $500)
- Total Shop Cost: $350 - $900
- Throttle Body Service/Replacement: $200 - $600 at a shop.
- Catalytic Converter Replacement: $1,000 - $2,500+ (parts and labor).
Maintenance Tips
- Follow Severe Service Schedules: If you drive in dusty conditions or make frequent short trips, change your air filter and fuel filter more often than the manual recommends.
- Use Top-Tier Fuel: Quality fuel with detergents can help keep injectors and fuel systems clean.
- Address Warning Lights Promptly: A lit vehicle stability system or check engine light can be related. Diagnose codes early before they mask other issues.
- Listen for Changes: Pay attention to new sounds like a persistent fuel pump whine or changes in engine note, which are early indicators.
Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.
Real Owner Data
Based on 100 owner experiences
Expected Repair Cost
Based on 6 reported repairs
Data source: Statistics aggregated from real owner discussions on Reddit, automotive forums, and YouTube. Data collected from 2025-11-11 to 2025-12-24.
Parts Mentioned
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Sources
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This analysis is based on real owner discussions from automotive communities. Links are provided for transparency and verification. Learn about our methodology →
