Why Your 2017 Honda Accord Pulls While Driving (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Pulling

If your 2017 Honda Accord is pulling to one side while driving, it can be a frustrating and potentially unsafe issue. This guide will help you diagnose and fix the problem based on real experiences from other owners. As one owner shared after purchasing their car: "So far, I’ve put 4,000 miles on the car and it’s been great. I’ve done fluid changes and had to replace the tires since it was still on the original rubber from 2017, and the tires were all dry rotted." This highlights a critical starting point for diagnosing pull—the condition of your tires.

Symptoms

The primary symptom is a consistent pull or drift to one side when driving on a flat, straight road, requiring you to constantly correct the steering wheel to maintain a straight line. This isn't a slight wander but a definite tugging sensation. You may also notice uneven or accelerated tire wear, particularly on the edges of the tread, which is a direct result of the misalignment causing the pull. A related symptom reported by owners is unusual noises, such as squeaking, which could indicate worn suspension components or brake issues contributing to the drag on one side.

In some cases, the pull may be accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel, especially at higher speeds. It's important to distinguish a pull from a drift; a pull is constant and requires steering force to counteract, while a drift may be influenced by road crown or wind. Owners who have addressed this issue often find it becomes apparent after other work is done, like tire replacement, as the new, true rubber highlights underlying alignment or component problems that the old, worn tires masked.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner data and common mechanical principles for this symptom, the most likely cause of a pulling condition in your vehicle is uneven tire wear or defective tires. This is the foundational issue that must be ruled out first. When tires are worn unevenly, have different tread depths, or suffer from internal belt separation or dry rot, they create inconsistent rolling resistance. This forces the vehicle to track toward the side with the greater resistance. As the owner quote indicates, the original tires from 2017 are susceptible to dry rot and age-related failure, making them a prime suspect.

Other potential causes that stem from or interact with tire issues include improper wheel alignment (specifically incorrect toe or camber settings) and worn suspension components like tie rods or control arm bushings. However, the owner data strongly points to the tires themselves as the primary culprit, especially on higher-mileage examples. Addressing the tires is the most effective first step, as aligning a car with bad tires is a wasted effort.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a pull requires a systematic approach. First, perform a visual and physical inspection of your tires. Check all four tires for uneven wear patterns, such as excessive wear on the inside or outside shoulder. Look for signs of dry rot—cracks in the sidewall or between tread blocks—as mentioned by an owner. Use a tread depth gauge to measure the depth at the inner, center, and outer grooves of each tire; a difference of 2/32nds of an inch or more between sides can cause a pull.

Next, conduct a simple road test. Find a long, flat, and empty stretch of road. Drive at a consistent speed (e.g., 45-55 mph) and briefly let go of the steering wheel (in a safe, controlled manner). Note which direction the vehicle pulls. Swap the front tires left to right. If the pull changes direction, you have confirmed a tire-related issue. If the pull remains in the same direction, the problem is likely in the alignment or suspension. Check for any loose components by safely jacking up the front end and trying to wiggle the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions (for ball joints) and 3 and 9 o'clock positions (for tie rods).

Step-by-Step Fix

Here is a detailed guide to resolving a pulling issue, starting with the most common fix.

1. Inspect and Replace Tires: This is your first and most critical step. Remove each wheel and thoroughly inspect the tires for age, dry rot, and uneven wear. The owner data is clear: "I’ve done fluid changes and had to replace the tires since it was still on the original rubber from 2017, and the tires were all dry rotted." If your tires are from 2017 or are over 6 years old, they are due for replacement regardless of tread depth due to rubber degradation.

2. Purchase a Matched Set: For best results, replace tires in pairs (both fronts or both rears) at a minimum. Ideally, replace all four with the same brand, model, and size to ensure consistent performance. Mismatched tires are a common cause of pull.

3. Install and Torque New Tires: Have the new tires mounted and balanced by a professional. Ensure they are installed with the correct rotational direction if they are directional tires. The lug nuts should be torqued to the factory specification of 80 lb-ft (108 N·m) in a star pattern.

4. Get a Professional Alignment: After installing new tires, a four-wheel alignment is mandatory. Do not skip this step. The alignment technician will adjust the camber, caster, and toe to factory specifications, ensuring the new tires wear evenly and the vehicle tracks straight.

5. Road Test and Verify: After the alignment, take the car for an extended test drive on the same flat road you used for diagnosis. The pull should be eliminated. If a slight pull remains, return to the shop; sometimes minor adjustments are needed.

6. Inspect Suspension Components: If the pull persists after new tires and alignment, a deeper inspection of suspension parts is needed. Check for worn control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and strut mounts. As one owner demonstrated proactive maintenance: "Valve Cover Gasket Changed... the gasket was sipping; I got sometime on hand today and changed it @117k miles." This hands-on attitude is useful for spotting other wear items.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Tires: Size will depend on your trim level (e.g., 235/45R18 for many EX-L and Touring models). Always refer to your driver's side door jamb sticker.
  • Valve Stems: Usually included with new tire service.
  • Wheel Weights: For balancing.
• Tools (for DIY inspection/component swap):
  • Jack and Jack Stands
  • Lug Wrench / Torque Wrench
  • Tire Tread Depth Gauge
  • Tire Pressure Gauge
• Services Required (typically professional):
  • Tire Mounting and Balancing Machine
  • Computerized Four-Wheel Alignment Rack

Real Owner Costs

Costs can vary widely based on tire choice and labor rates.

• DIY Tire Swap & Alignment: If you purchase tires online and have them shipped, you can save on markup. A set of four mid-range tires might cost $600-$800. Paying a shop for mount, balance, and alignment adds $150-$250. Total: $750-$1,050.
• Full Service at a Tire Shop: This is the most common route. A package for four new tires, including all services (mount, balance, alignment, disposal fees), with mid-range tires can run $900-$1,300 out the door. High-performance tires will increase this cost.
• Professional Suspension Repair: If worn parts are found, costs add up. Replacing front control arms (both sides) with alignment can cost $800-$1,200 in parts and labor. Tie rod ends are less, around $300-$500.
• Owner Context: An owner investing in a used 2017 Accord noted, "74,000 miles certified pre-owned. I’m going to install a steering wheel cover and front seat covers to protect its interior." This shows that savvy owners budget for both preventative interior care and necessary mechanical updates like tires.

Prevention

Preventing a pull is about proactive maintenance. Regularly check your tire pressure at least once a month when the tires are cold, using the PSI listed on the door jamb sticker, not the tire sidewall. Uneven pressure is a quick way to induce a pull. Have your wheel alignment checked annually or anytime you hit a significant pothole or curb. Rotate your tires every 5,000-7,500 miles to promote even wear. Finally, be mindful of tire age. Even with plenty of tread, tires over 6 years old become hard and prone to dry rot, losing their ability to grip and track properly, as an owner discovered with their original 2017-set.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Owner Experiences

"Took me all year to find this beauty but she was worth waiting for! 2017 Accord EX 6-speed, got 81k on the odometer. My trusty 08 is still gonna be in the family she’s only got 120k." — Eatyourfriedrice (source)

"My trusty 08 is still gonna be in the family she’s only got 120k. Love these cars and this is my first manual can’t wait to learn!" — Eatyourfriedrice (source)

"Valve Cover Gasket Changed 2017 Accord EXL the gasket was sipping; I got sometime on hand today and changed it @117k miles" — Aggravating-Sky7868 (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "Get something better mechanically. Pre 2017 non turbo is what you should be looking." — happy_Amphibian_88 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a pulling issue? A: If the fix is simply replacing tires and getting an alignment, the entire process can be done in a few hours at a tire shop. If suspension components need to be diagnosed and replaced, it could take a full day or more depending on part availability.

Q: Can I drive with my car pulling? A: You can, but you shouldn't for long. A constant pull is a safety issue that increases driver fatigue and compromises control in emergency maneuvers. It also causes rapid, expensive tire wear, turning a simple tire/alignment job into a need for new tires and suspension work.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2017 Honda Accord? A: Pulling itself is not a model-specific defect, but it is a common issue on any higher-mileage vehicle. The 2017 Accord, now 7+ years old, is at the age where original tires are failing and suspension components are wearing out, making it a frequent presentation. Owners are now encountering these standard maintenance items.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for a pull? A: DIY is excellent for the initial diagnosis: checking tire wear, swapping tires side-to-side, and inspecting for loose parts. However, the core fixes—precise tire balancing and computer-based four-wheel alignment—require professional equipment. Most owners are best served doing the diagnosis themselves and then taking the car to a trusted shop for the final repair and alignment.

Q: Will an alignment alone fix the pull if my tires are old? A: Almost certainly not. An alignment sets angles based on the current state of the tires. If the tires are worn unevenly, dry-rotted, or have internal damage, the alignment will be compensating for a flawed foundation. You will likely waste the cost of the alignment. Always start with healthy tires.

Q: I just bought a used 2017 Accord. What should I check first? A: Immediately check the tire date codes (a 4-digit number in an oval on the sidewall showing week and year of manufacture). If they are from 2017 or earlier, budget for new tires. As one proud new owner noted, "I also love the upgraded features that this Touring comes with. 74,000 miles certified pre-owned." A pre-owned certification is good, but it may not cover wear items like aged tires. A thorough inspection by an independent mechanic is always wise.