Why is Your 2025 Honda Accord Making a Clicking Noise?

Warning Signs

Owners report a distinct clicking or ticking noise that varies significantly with vehicle conditions. The most common reports describe a rapid, metallic clicking from the front of the vehicle, particularly noticeable at low speeds (under 25 mph) and during light acceleration. Many note the sound disappears at highway speeds or under hard acceleration. A separate, commonly reported issue is a single, loud "click" or "clunk" from the front suspension when going over bumps, turning at low speeds, or during the first brake application after reversing. In some cases, the clicking is reported to be audible inside the cabin and may seem to emanate from the dashboard or infotainment area, often correlating with screen touches or system wake-up.

Diagnostic Process

Pinpointing a clicking noise requires systematic isolation due to the numerous potential sources. Start by identifying the noise's behavior. Does it change with vehicle speed (wheel-related) or engine RPM (engine-related)? Is it present when stationary (infotainment/electrical)?

1. Road Test: Have an assistant drive the vehicle slowly while you walk alongside to help locate the general area (front left, front right, center). Listen for changes during light braking, turning, and over small bumps.
2. Suspension Check: With the vehicle safely supported on jack stands, grasp the front tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and attempt to rock it. Any play or clicking indicates a worn tie rod end. Repeat at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions; play here suggests a worn wheel bearing or ball joint.
3. Brake Inspection: Remove the front wheels and inspect the brake pad retention hardware (clips, shims). These are a frequent source of clicks. Check that the caliper mounting bolts are torqued to spec and that the caliper bracket is secure.
4. CV Joint Examination: Look at the front axle CV joint boots for any tears or leaks of grease. A worn outer CV joint will typically click loudly during sharp turns.
5. Engine Bay Listen: Use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver (carefully) to listen around the valve cover, fuel injectors, and high-pressure fuel pump while the engine is idling. A rhythmic tap from the valve train differs from the faster, computerized clicking of direct fuel injectors.
6. Infotainment Test: With the engine off and the ignition in "ON" or accessory mode, repeatedly tap the infotainment screen and press buttons. Listen for associated clicks from behind the dashboard.

Likely Culprits

Based on the frequency of owner reports and confirmed fixes, the causes are highly context-dependent.

• Front Suspension/Brakes (Most Common for Driving Noises): Loose or worn brake pad shims/clips are the single most cited culprit for a speed-sensitive clicking. Following this, worn strut mounts, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends are prevalent for "clunking" over bumps.
• Engine Bay (Most Common for Idle/RPM-Related Noises): The normal, loud operation of direct fuel injectors and high-pressure fuel pumps is often mistaken for a problem. A failing variable valve timing (VVT) actuator or a loose heat shield can also create a distinct click or rattle.
• Drivetrain: A failing outer Constant Velocity (CV) joint is a classic source of pronounced clicking during turns.
• Interior/Electronics: The 10th-generation Honda Civic (and similar systems in other models) has widespread reports of a loud relay click from behind the dashboard when the infotainment system wakes up or is interacted with. This is often a design characteristic rather than a fault.

Proven Fixes

Ranked from most to least frequent success for mechanical clicks.

1. Brake Pad Shim/Clip Service (High Success Rate): Remove the brake pads, clean all contact points on the caliper bracket and pad ears with a wire brush, and apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake lubricant (e.g., Permatex 24125) to the shims, clips, and pad ears. Reinstall, ensuring all hardware is snug. This resolves the majority of low-speed clicking cases.
2. Suspension Component Replacement: Replace worn sway bar end links (a common 2-bolt, sub-$50 part). For strut mount clunks, replacement of the strut mount bearing plate is often necessary. Torque all suspension fasteners to factory specification with the vehicle under normal load (on the ground or on alignment racks).
3. CV Axle Replacement: If the CV boot is torn and the joint is clicking, the entire axle assembly is typically replaced. A remanufactured axle is a common DIY solution.
4. Valve Adjustment or VVT Actuator Replacement: For older engines with mechanical lifters, a valve clearance adjustment may silence a tick. For newer engines with VVT systems, diagnosis of oil pressure and actuator operation is required; replacement is a significant job.
5. Infotainment "Fix": For the 10th-gen Civic and similar, no repair fixes the relay click, as it is inherent to the system's design. Some owners have used sound-deadening material behind the dashboard to muffle the noise, but this is an invasive procedure.

Required Parts

• Basic Tools: Jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set, torque wrench, flathead and pry tools.
• For Brake Service: High-temperature silicone brake lubricant, brake cleaner, wire brush. Possible need for new anti-rattle clips/shims (often included with quality brake pad sets).
• For Suspension: Replacement sway bar end links, strut mount assemblies, tie rod ends. A pickle fork or ball joint separator tool is often needed.
• For CV Joint: Replacement CV axle assembly, axle nut (often a stretch bolt, one-time use), cotter pin.
• For Engine: Valve cover gasket set (for valve adjustment), feeler gauges. For VVT, replacement actuator(s) and often a new timing chain/guide kit is recommended.

Cost Analysis

• DIY - Brake Pad Shim Service: $10 - $30. Cost of brake lubricant and cleaner only. This should always be the first step.
• DIY - Sway Bar End Links: $25 - $80 for parts. A 1-2 hour job for a novice.
• DIY - CV Axle Replacement: $100 - $250 for a remanufactured axle. Requires special tools for the axle nut and is a moderately difficult 2-3 hour job.
• DIY - Strut Mount Replacement: $60 - $150 per side for parts. Requires a spring compressor and is considered a high-difficulty, safety-critical job.
• Professional Repair: Shop rates for diagnosis start at $120. A brake service to address clicking typically runs $150 - $300. CV axle replacement at a shop can cost $400 - $700. Suspension work like strut mount replacement often exceeds $500 per side including alignment.

Useful Tips

• The Chalk Test: Mark a tire's tread and sidewall with chalk. Drive slowly and check if the click coincides with each revolution of the chalk mark. If it does, the issue is almost certainly in the wheel, brake, or hub assembly.
• Torque is Critical: Suspension and brake components must be torqued to factory specs. Under-torqued caliper bracket bolts are a common source of noise. Use a reliable torque wrench.
• Injector Noise is Normal: Direct injection engines are notoriously loud. Before chasing an engine tick, research the normal sound profile for your specific engine. Comparing to another identical vehicle is the best benchmark.
• Diagnose Before Replacing: Do not throw parts at the problem. The brake pad shim fix has solved countless "CV joint" and "wheel bearing" noises that owners misdiagnosed. The suspension must be unloaded (jack stands) to properly check for play in tie rods and ball joints.
• Professional Help: If the noise is accompanied by vibration, pulling under braking, or any change in handling, seek professional diagnosis immediately. These can be symptoms of serious safety issues.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.