Why Your 2017 Honda Civic is Misfiring and How to Stop It

How to Fix Misfire

A misfire in your 2017 Honda Civic is a serious issue that can lead to poor performance, increased emissions, and potential damage to the catalytic converter. It's characterized by the engine stumbling, shaking, or producing unusual sounds because one or more cylinders aren't firing properly. While the owner data for this specific model year doesn't provide direct quotes about diagnosing a misfire, we can analyze the symptoms and related concerns mentioned by owners to build a comprehensive, data-driven guide. As one owner shared about a different but related concern, "You could stop abusing it if you’re scared of the CVT failing on you. 125k on my 2017 EX hatch and no issues so far," highlighting the importance of proper vehicle care and addressing issues promptly to prevent major failures.

Symptoms

Owners of the 2017 Honda Civic report a range of symptoms that can be associated with or mistaken for an engine misfire. The most direct symptom mentioned is the "misfire" itself, which you will likely feel as a pronounced shudder or vibration, especially at idle or under acceleration. The engine may feel like it's stumbling or lacking power.

This is often accompanied by unusual auditory cues. Owners report a "deep sound" and a "grinding noise." While a true mechanical misfire often produces a rhythmic popping or sputtering from the exhaust, a deep or grinding sound could indicate a more severe issue, such as internal engine damage or problems with ancillary components that are exacerbated by the engine's rough running. The shaking from a misfire can cause other parts to vibrate abnormally, creating secondary noises.

Furthermore, "electrical issues" are noted in the data. A misfire can sometimes be caused by faulty ignition components like coils or spark plugs, which are fundamentally electrical problems. Symptoms may include a flashing check engine light (indicating a catalyst-damaging misfire), a steady check engine light with codes like P0300-P0304 (random or cylinder-specific misfire), and potentially other electronic gremlins if the misfire is disrupting the vehicle's computer systems or grounding.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the aggregated owner data for the 2017 Honda Civic, the most frequently implicated system when discussing symptoms like misfire, grinding noise, and electrical issues is the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System). While this may seem counterintuitive, a failing ABS component, such as a wheel speed sensor or the modulator, can send erroneous signals to the vehicle's central computer.

These faulty signals can interfere with other systems, including those managing engine operation and stability control. In modern, highly computerized vehicles like your Civic, a problem in one module can create cascading issues. A bad wheel speed sensor might cause the stability control system to engage erratically, which can feel like a loss of power or a shudder—symptoms easily confused with an engine misfire. The "grinding noise" reported could also be attributed to a malfunctioning ABS pump or actuator. Therefore, a thorough diagnosis should include scanning for codes in the ABS module, not just the engine control module.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a suspected misfire requires a methodical approach, starting with the simplest checks. First, you'll need an OBD2 scanner. This tool is essential for reading diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Plug it into the port under the dashboard on the driver's side.

1. Scan for Codes: Retrieve all codes from both the Engine Control Module (P-codes) and the ABS/Vehicle Stability Assist module (C-codes). A code like P0301 points directly to a misfire in cylinder 1. However, also note any ABS-related codes like Cxxxx, which could indicate a faulty wheel speed sensor.
2. Visual Inspection: With the engine off, visually inspect the ignition system. Check spark plug wires (if equipped) for cracks or burns. Look at the ignition coils for signs of physical damage or carbon tracking. Inspect the battery terminals and ground connections for corrosion, as "electrical issues" can stem from poor grounds.
3. Listen and Feel: Start the engine. Listen carefully for the source of the "deep sound" or "grinding noise." Use a mechanic's stethoscope (carefully) to isolate whether the noise is coming from the engine bay, near the firewall (where the ABS modulator often is), or from the wheel wells.
4. Component Swap Test: If you have a cylinder-specific misfire code (e.g., P0302), you can try swapping the ignition coil from that cylinder with one from a different cylinder. Clear the codes, run the engine, and scan again. If the misfire code moves to the new cylinder (e.g., P0304), you've found a bad coil. If it stays on the original cylinder, the problem is likely the spark plug or an internal engine issue like low compression.

Step-by-Step Fix

If your diagnosis points to a failing ABS component as a root cause of drivability issues, here is a generalized guide. Note: The ABS system is safety-critical. If you are not confident, seek professional help.

1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Access the Component: Based on the fault code, identify the faulty part. A wheel speed sensor is typically located behind the brake rotor, held by one bolt. The ABS modulator and pump are usually in the engine bay near the firewall.
3. Remove the Faulty Part: For a wheel speed sensor, remove the retaining bolt and gently pull the sensor from its hub. It may be stuck; avoid prying on the sensitive tip. For the modulator, you must first carefully depressurize the brake system following factory service manual procedures—this is complex and involves specialized scan tools to cycle the pump and valves.
4. Install the New Part: Install the new sensor or component, using new seals or gaskets as required. Torque fasteners to specification. Do not contaminate the sensor tip.
5. Reconnect and Bleed: Reconnect the negative battery cable. If you opened any brake lines, the system MUST be bled of air using the correct sequence, often requiring a scan tool to run the ABS pump's bleed procedure. Failure to do this will result in a spongy brake pedal.
6. Clear Codes and Test: Use your OBD2 scanner to clear all diagnostic codes from the engine and ABS modules. Take the vehicle for a careful test drive on a safe, open road to allow the system to re-learn and verify the repair.

As one owner shared regarding dealer practices, which underscores the value of a proper warranty on repairs: "They’re also selling a 2017 FK8 type r for $57k and wait for the kicker… no dealer warranty. I’m not asking for 5 years."

Parts and Tools Needed

• OBD2 Scanner: Essential for reading and clearing codes. A basic code reader works, but one that can read ABS codes is highly recommended.
• Basic Mechanic's Tool Set: Sockets, wrenches, and screwdrivers.
• Jack and Jack Stands: For safely lifting the vehicle to access wheel speed sensors.
• New Wheel Speed Sensor: Part number will vary by trim. Example: Front Sensor (Honda Part # 57450-TBA-A01) - Confirm with your VIN.
• Torque Wrench: To ensure proper fastener tightness.
• Brake Bleeder Kit or Scan Tool: Required if servicing the ABS modulator/pump to properly bleed the brake system.

Real Owner Costs

Costs can vary widely based on the root cause and whether you use a dealer, independent shop, or DIY.

• DIY (Wheel Speed Sensor): The part cost for a single wheel speed sensor can range from $50 to $150 for an OEM part. If you already have basic tools, your total cost is just the part. As an owner noted on a different topic, being mindful of value is key: "It seemed like a car with fairly narrow bandwidth for the $195K I paid for it." While not for a Civic, it highlights cost consideration.
• Independent Shop: For a wheel speed sensor replacement, expect 1 hour of labor ($100-$150) plus the part, totaling $200-$300.
• Dealer Service: Dealer labor rates are higher, often $150-$200 per hour. The same repair could cost $300-$400. As one owner critically observed about dealer pricing: "The staff at that specific dealer tell me the owner of the dealer is out of his mind."
• Major ABS Repair (Modulator/Pump): This is a significant repair. The part alone can cost $1,000+. With 2-3 hours of dealer labor and mandatory brake fluid flush, the total can easily exceed $1,500.

Prevention

Preventing issues that lead to misfire-like symptoms involves consistent maintenance and gentle operation. Adhere strictly to the factory maintenance schedule for spark plug and ignition coil inspection/replacement. Use high-quality fuel. Protect your vehicle's electrical system by ensuring the battery is in good health and terminals are clean. Avoid driving through deep water, which can damage wheel speed sensors and other undercarriage electronics. As one owner wisely stated regarding transmission care, which applies to overall vehicle longevity: "You could stop abusing it if you’re scared of the CVT failing on you."

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Owner Experiences

"When I had a 2017 WRX it had circles all over the doors because I parked it with other cars. I had a Mazda that was spotless, by just parking directly in the middle of the lane every time." — TheHamsterball (source)

"I had a Mazda that was spotless, by just parking directly in the middle of the lane every time. However, one day I got dinged while sitting in my car in the 15 minute parking." — TheHamsterball (source)

"Finally got a new civic to replace my 2017 EXT. 2022 sport touring in Smokey mauve pearl. Obsessed with her and the color" — Significant_Slice_38 (source)

Real Repair Costs

"It seemed like a car with fairly narrow bandwidth for the $195K I paid for it. But since it is one of the best cars ever made, I felt compelled to keep it or else I wasn't a true car guy or Porsche aficionado." — Mental_Safety241 (source)

"The staff at that specific dealer tell me the owner of the dealer is out of his mind. They’re also selling a 2017 FK8 type r for $57k and wait for the kicker… no dealer warranty." — Mountain_Income_9855 (source)

"They’re also selling a 2017 FK8 type r for $57k and wait for the kicker… no dealer warranty. I’m not asking for 5 years." — Mountain_Income_9855 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a misfire? A: It depends entirely on the cause. Replacing a single spark plug or ignition coil is often a 30-60 minute DIY job. Diagnosing an intermittent electrical issue or replacing an ABS component like a wheel speed sensor can take 1-2 hours. A complex ABS modulator repair could take a shop half a day or more.

Q: Can I drive my Civic with a misfire? A: It is strongly discouraged. A flashing check engine light means an active misfire that is damaging the catalytic converter—you should stop driving immediately. A steady light with a misfire code means reduced power, poor fuel economy, and potential for further damage. It should be addressed as soon as possible.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2017 Civic? A: The provided owner data does not indicate a single, widespread "misfire" epidemic for this model year. However, issues with ignition components and electronic sensors (like ABS wheel speed sensors) are common across many modern vehicles as they age and accumulate mileage.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what’s recommended for a misfire? A: Simple ignition-related misfires (spark plugs, coils) are very common and within the scope of a confident DIYer with basic tools. However, if the diagnosis points to the ABS system, internal engine problems (like low compression), or requires bleeding the brakes, it is strongly recommended to seek a professional mechanic. The brakes are a critical safety system, and mistakes can be dangerous.

Q: Could the transmission cause symptoms like a misfire? A: While not a true engine misfire, a failing transmission, particularly the CVT in some 2017 Civics, can cause shuddering and jerking that feels similar. Owners report being mindful of their transmission's health. One owner with a 2017 EX hatch noted, "125k on my 2017 EX hatch and no issues so far," suggesting that with proper care, major issues can be avoided, but it remains a potential source of drivability concerns.

Q: Why would an ABS problem feel like a misfire? A: Modern vehicles are networks of computers. The Engine Control Module (ECM) and the ABS/Stability Control Module constantly communicate. If a wheel speed sensor fails, it can send incorrect data, causing the stability control system to apply brakes individually or cut engine power erratically to "correct" for a skid that isn't happening. This power interruption or braking pulse can feel remarkably similar to an engine misfire or stumble.