How to Replace Worn Control Arms on Your Honda Fit and Save $1000

How to Fix Control Arm Replacement

Replacing the front lower control arms on your 2020 Honda Fit is a significant suspension repair that addresses worn-out bushings and restores proper handling. While not a daily occurrence, when the rubber bushings in the control arms deteriorate, they can cause a host of drivability issues. The decision to tackle this job yourself or take it to a shop often comes down to a significant cost difference, as one Subaru owner facing a similar repair discovered: "The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." This guide will walk you through the symptoms, diagnosis, and repair process based on real-world owner experiences and mechanical principles.

Symptoms

The symptoms of failing control arm bushings are often felt before they are seen. The most common complaint is a persistent vibration, especially at highway speeds, that seems to emanate from the front end of the vehicle. This vibration can be felt through the steering wheel and the floorboards, making for an uncomfortable and concerning driving experience. It may start subtly and worsen over time as the rubber bushing continues to degrade and lose its ability to dampen movement.

You may also notice a general sense of sluggishness or vagueness in the steering. The front end might feel loose or floaty, and the vehicle may not track straight as easily, requiring more frequent small steering corrections. This is because the control arm is a critical pivot point for your steering knuckle; when its bushings are worn, it allows for unwanted movement that compromises alignment and steering precision. In severe cases, you might hear clunking or knocking sounds from the front suspension when going over bumps or during sharp turns.

While not directly a suspension symptom, owners have reported ancillary issues like a struggle to start or general engine lag in discussions surrounding major repairs. This is often a sign of underlying fuel system concerns that should be addressed comprehensively. As one owner noted in a broader mechanical discussion, "One things for sure, on your fit, fuel shouldn't be a problem lol. Is it a return based system or does it dead head? (I'm not sure on the L15's yet)." It's crucial to ensure your engine is running correctly before attributing all performance issues solely to suspension wear.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause necessitating control arm replacement is the failure of the integral rubber bushings. These bushings are designed to flex and absorb road shocks while maintaining precise control over the wheel's movement. Over time, exposure to heat, road salt, ozone, and constant stress causes the rubber to dry out, crack, and eventually tear. Once the bushing is torn, it can no longer properly control the metal sleeve inside, leading to excessive play.

This wear is accelerated by driving habits and road conditions. Frequently driving on rough roads, potholes, or speed bumps can put extra stress on these components. The bushings can also fail prematurely due to a manufacturing defect or exposure to certain fluids like oil or brake fluid, which can degrade the rubber compound. It's a wear-and-tear item, not typically a sudden failure, but it will progressively worsen until the control arm must be replaced as an assembly, as the bushings are often pressed in and not serviced separately on many modern vehicles like the Honda Fit.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing bad control arm bushings requires a visual inspection and a physical check for play. You will need a few basic tools: a flashlight, a pry bar or large screwdriver, a jack, and jack stands.

First, safely lift the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels for clear access to the suspension components. With the wheel off, visually inspect the front lower control arm, focusing on the large bushing where the arm attaches to the subframe. Look for obvious signs of failure: cracks in the rubber, pieces of rubber missing, or a bushing that looks wet or oily (which can indicate separation). The rubber should be intact and firm.

Next, check for physical play. With the vehicle still raised, try to move the control arm itself. Using your pry bar, gently lever between the control arm and the subframe. You should see very little to no movement in the bushing. Significant visible movement, a clunking sound, or a feeling of "squishiness" indicates a failed bushing. You can also grasp the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to wiggle it; excessive play here can point to worn tie rod ends or ball joints, but combined with other symptoms, it helps build a case for general front-end wear. For the most accurate diagnosis, a professional mechanic will perform this check and also assess your alignment, as worn control arm bushings will often cause the alignment to shift, particularly the caster and camber angles.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing the front lower control arms is a moderately difficult DIY job that requires patience and the right tools. Allow a full day if this is your first time attempting it.

1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels slightly before lifting the vehicle.

2. Lift and Support: Jack up the front of the car and support it securely on jack stands placed under the designated lift points on the subframe. Remove the front wheels.

3. Disconnect the Sway Bar Link: Locate the sway bar (anti-roll bar) link connected to the control arm. Use a wrench to hold the stud and another to remove the nut. You may need to use a "pickle fork" or ball joint separator to pop the link end out of the control arm.

4. Separate the Ball Joint: The control arm is connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut from the ball joint stud. Using a ball joint separator tool, carefully separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Avoid hammering on the knuckle or stud directly.

5. Remove the Control Arm Bolts: The control arm is attached to the subframe with two large bolts. Note their orientation. You will need a substantial breaker bar or impact wrench to remove these, as they are torqued very tightly. Remove both bolts and carefully lower the control arm out of the vehicle.

6. Install the New Control Arm: Position the new control arm into place. Hand-thread the two main bolts to hold it. Reconnect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and torque the castle nut to specification (consult a service manual), then install a new cotter pin.

7. Reconnect the Sway Bar Link: Thread the sway bar link into the control arm and tighten the nut. Do not final-torque it until the vehicle is back on the ground.

8. Final Steps: Reinstall the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. With the vehicle's weight on the suspension, go back and final-torque all fasteners: the control arm-to-subframe bolts, the sway bar link nut, and the wheel lug nuts. This step is critical for bushing longevity.

9. Alignment is Mandatory: After replacing a control arm, you must get a professional front-end alignment. The geometry of the suspension will have changed. As one owner emphasized after completing a complex repair, ensuring all systems are correctly programmed is key: "One question: has it been worked out to program the ABS module from Forscan or does it still take IDS to do it? So I finally got the last missing part today." While about a different module, the principle is the same—the final professional calibration is essential.

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Front Lower Control Arm (Left and Right). It is highly recommended to replace both sides even if only one is bad, as the other is likely not far behind. Honda part numbers are specific to side.
• New Cotter Pins (for the ball joint castle nuts).
• Optional but recommended: New sway bar link nuts (often are nylon locking and should not be reused).

Tools:

• Floor jack and at least two jack stands
• Lug wrench / socket set
• Breaker bar and/or impact wrench
• Socket set (including deep sockets, likely 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm)
• Wrench set
• Ball joint separator tool (also called a pickle fork or press-type separator)
• Torque wrench
• Pry bar
• Safety glasses and gloves

Real Owner Costs

The cost disparity between DIY and professional repair is the driving factor for many considering this job. Based on owner reports from similar vehicles, the professional quote can be startling.

• Professional Repair: One owner was quoted $1,900 to replace the front lower control arms on their 2020 sedan. This cost typically includes 2-3 hours of labor per side at shop rates ($100-$150/hour) and the marked-up price of the OEM parts. For a 2020 Honda Fit, a realistic shop quote would likely range from $1,200 to $1,800 depending on your location and whether you use OEM or aftermarket parts.

• DIY Repair: The cost shifts dramatically if you do it yourself. A pair of quality aftermarket control arms for your Fit can cost between $200 and $400. OEM Honda arms will be more, potentially $300-$500 for the pair. Adding in the cost of an alignment ($100-$150), your total DIY investment is typically between $300 and $550. This represents a potential savings of $1,000 or more, which is why, as the owner stated, they were "planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself."

Prevention

While control arm bushings are ultimately wear items, you can extend their life significantly with careful driving and maintenance. Avoid hitting potholes and curbs whenever possible, as sharp impacts are the quickest way to damage suspension components. When you must go over speed bumps or driveway aprons, take them slowly and at an angle if possible to reduce the direct shock on one side.

Regular inspections are key. During oil changes or tire rotations, take a moment to visually inspect the rubber bushings for early signs of cracking or deterioration. Keeping your vehicle's alignment in specification also reduces uneven stress on the bushings. Have the alignment checked annually or anytime you notice uneven tire wear or the vehicle pulling to one side. Finally, address other suspension issues like worn struts or shocks promptly, as they allow more impact force to be transmitted to the control arms.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Success Stories

"One question: has it been worked out to program the ABS module from Forscan or does it still take IDS to do it? So I finally got the last missing part today, which was the correct steering wheel switch pack." — Butch88 (source)

"I'm out of town for work the next couple of weeks so it will be a while before I can complete it. One question: has it been worked out to program the ABS module from Forscan or does it still take IDS to do it?" — Butch88 (source)

Owner Experiences

"Factory Rubicon suspension on unlimited sport? There's a local guy selling a set of Rubicon fox shocks control arms and springs from a 2020 Rubicon JT and claims they only have 2000 miles on them." — djdb05 (2,000 miles) (source)

"There's a local guy selling a set of Rubicon fox shocks control arms and springs from a 2020 Rubicon JT and claims they only have 2000 miles on them. Will these fit my 2019 JL?" — djdb05 (2,000 miles) (source)

"The car stays at a fixed speed, even when I'm following a vehicle that is moving faster. I believe I am following the instructions from this doc when setting the cruise control: https://owners.honda.com/utility/dow...se_Control.pdf" — benjwhite9 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "If one wheel is turning slightly faster than the others, the TCS/VSA unit concludes that tire could have low air pressure, and triggers the warning light." — bobski (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "But I think the main reason was when I was a kid I didn't realize every time you blow a head gasket you should resurface the head so I just kept slapping warped head on top of a new gasket over and over I was young and dumb lol." — Itfits ... Twss (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I'm struggling to find an answer to this question. The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." — Slyguy10172 (DIY) (source)

"The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." — Slyguy10172 (DIY) (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace control arms? A: For an experienced DIYer with the right tools, replacing both front lower control arms can take 3 to 5 hours. For a first-timer, it's wise to budget a full day to work carefully and troubleshoot any stuck bolts. A professional mechanic will typically book 2.5 to 3.5 hours for the job.

Q: Can I drive with a bad control arm bushing? A: It is not safe to drive for long with a severely torn control arm bushing. The excessive play can cause unpredictable handling, especially during braking or cornering, and will rapidly destroy your tires due to misalignment. It should be addressed as soon as possible.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Honda Fit? A: Control arm bushing wear is a common issue on all vehicles over time and mileage. The 2020 Fit is not known for a specific, widespread defect in these components. Failure is typically related to age, mileage (often 80,000+ miles), and driving conditions rather than a model-specific flaw.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? A: This is a high-stakes job where safety is paramount. If you are mechanically confident, have a good set of tools (especially a strong breaker bar or impact for the subframe bolts), and follow a detailed guide, DIY can save you over a thousand dollars. However, if you are unsure about separating the ball joint, torquing critical bolts correctly, or performing the mandatory post-repair alignment, it is best left to a professional. The consequences of an error can be dangerous.

Q: Do I need to replace the whole arm, or just the bushing? A: For most modern vehicles like the Honda Fit, the bushings are pressed into the control arm and are not sold separately by the manufacturer. The standard, most practical repair is to replace the entire control arm assembly, which comes with new bushings and a new ball joint already installed and properly aligned.

Q: Will I need other parts after this repair? A: Almost certainly, you will need a front-end alignment. The process of removing and installing the control arm will alter your wheel alignment settings. Furthermore, it's an excellent time to inspect other wear items like your tie rod ends, sway bar links, and CV axle boots, as you'll have everything apart. Replacing worn components together saves on future labor.