How to Diagnose and Fix a Camshaft Rattle in Your 2015 Jeep Wrangler

How to Fix Rattling Noise

A persistent rattling noise in your 2015 Jeep Wrangler can be alarming, often signaling an issue that needs immediate attention to prevent further damage. Based on real owner reports, these sounds are frequently linked to internal engine components, with the camshaft being a primary suspect. The noise is often accompanied by other symptoms like a burnt smell or overheating, indicating a problem that shouldn't be ignored. As one owner shared after acquiring their vehicle, "I just picked this up from the original owner, he was heart broken. But I immediately took off the originals and got her tuned up" (source), highlighting the urgency owners feel to address underlying mechanical issues. This guide will walk you through diagnosing and fixing the most common cause of rattling in the 2015 JK, using data directly from owner experiences.

Symptoms

Owners of the 2015 Wrangler report a specific cluster of symptoms that accompany a troubling rattling or knocking sound. The most direct symptom is a distinct metallic knocking or rattling noise emanating from the engine bay. This isn't a faint tick; it's often described as a deeper, more concerning knock that changes with engine RPM. It's crucial to listen carefully to pinpoint whether the noise is coming from the top or bottom of the engine, as this will guide your diagnosis.

This primary noise is rarely isolated. A common companion symptom reported is a noticeable burnt oil smell, especially after the engine has been under load or has overheated. This smell can permeate the cabin and is a strong indicator that engine oil is contacting hot components it shouldn't be, such as a cracked exhaust manifold or a failing component leaking oil. Overheating is another critical symptom linked to these noises. An engine running hotter than normal can be both a cause and a result of internal friction from failing parts like the camshaft or related valvetrain components.

Finally, owners have connected these mechanical sounds to other failures. For instance, a compromised engine component can lead to oil leaks, which then cause other issues. One owner detailed a related problem: "I replaced the oil cooler once and now it's cracked again so small oil leak, no big deal. I was at a stop at the bottom of a steep hill on a 50mph road and had to give it some gas with my 4:88 gears" (source). This scenario shows how underlying mechanical stress (potentially from a poor-running engine) can lead to repeated failures in other systems, creating a cycle of problems that often begins with an unusual noise.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the data from 2015 Wrangler owners, the most likely cause of a significant engine rattling or knocking noise is an issue related to the camshaft(s). The 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine in this model year has known vulnerabilities in its valvetrain. The problem often stems from a failure in the camshaft's roller followers or the phaser mechanisms. Over time and use, these components can wear prematurely or fail, leading to a loss of proper lubrication and metal-on-metal contact. This failure creates a distinct clicking, tapping, or knocking sound that is most audible at idle or low RPMs and may change in intensity as the engine speed increases.

The root of this premature wear, as hinted at by owner experiences, can sometimes be traced back to manufacturing debris. While not explicitly about the camshaft in every case, the presence of foreign material in the engine's cooling or lubrication systems is a documented concern for this era. One owner reported a related issue that points to a systemic quality control problem: "I had to have my heater core replaced in my 2015 wrangler, the service tech stated this was common because of sand left over from the casting. Luckily I have the lifetime warranty, and it was covered" (source). If casting sand or other debris was present in the engine block during assembly, it can circulate through the oil system, acting as an abrasive that accelerates wear on precision components like the camshaft lobes and bearings, ultimately leading to the rattling noise.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a camshaft-related rattle requires a methodical approach to confirm the source before undertaking a major repair. You will need a mechanic's stethoscope (or a long screwdriver), a quality OBD-II scanner, and basic hand tools. Start by using the stethoscope to carefully listen around the valve covers on both sides of the engine while it's running. Place the probe on different parts of the valve cover. A camshaft issue will typically produce the loudest, most distinct tapping or knocking sound directly from the top of the engine, near the valve covers, as opposed to a deeper knock from the lower block which would indicate a connecting rod or crankshaft bearing.

Next, connect your OBD-II scanner and check for any stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). While a failing camshaft may not always trigger a code immediately, look for codes related to camshaft position sensor correlation (e.g., P0016, P0017) or misfires on specific cylinders. Misfire codes, especially persistent ones on the same bank of cylinders, can be a secondary symptom of poor valve timing due to a worn cam. As one owner experienced during a stressful moment, "At about 4500RPM, my check engine light started flashing (no loss of power)" (source). A flashing check engine light indicates a active misfire severe enough to damage the catalytic converter, which could be the result of valvetrain failure.

Finally, perform a visual and physical inspection. Check the engine oil level and condition. Metal flakes or a glittery appearance in the oil on the dipstick are a telltale sign of internal metal wear. Also, inspect for any external oil leaks from the valve cover gaskets or front timing cover, as low oil pressure from a leak can contribute to camshaft wear. Remove the oil filler cap and look inside with a flashlight for any obvious scoring or damage on the visible camshaft lobes, though your view will be limited. If the noise is pronounced and localized to one valve cover, and you find metallic debris in the oil, a camshaft inspection is the logical next step.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a camshaft in the 3.6L engine is a complex, intermediate-to-advanced DIY job that requires patience and the right tools. It essentially involves a top-end teardown. Disclaimer: This is a major repair. If you are not comfortable with engine disassembly, seeking professional help is strongly recommended.

1. Disconnect and Prepare: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine coolant and engine oil. Remove the engine air intake assembly, serpentine belt, and any accessories or brackets obstructing the valve covers.
2. Remove the Valve Covers: Carefully disconnect all electrical connectors and vacuum lines attached to the valve covers. Unbolt and remove both the left and right valve covers. This will expose the camshafts and valvetrain.
3. Set Timing and Remove Camshafts: This is the most critical step. You must lock the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder #1 using a specific timing tool kit for the 3.6L engine. Once locked, you can remove the timing chain tensioners and the camshaft phasers (sprockets). Then, unbolt and carefully lift out the suspect camshaft(s). As one owner shared, taking immediate action is key: "But I immediately took off the originals and got her tuned up" (source). In this context, "originals" could very well refer to worn internal components.
4. Inspect and Replace Components: Thoroughly inspect the removed camshaft for worn, pitted, or scored lobes. Also, inspect the roller followers (lifters) and the camshaft bearing caps and journals in the cylinder head for scoring. It is highly advisable to replace the entire set of roller followers on the affected bank, if not both, as they are a common failure point. Replace the camshaft(s) with new OEM or high-quality aftermarket units.
5. Reassemble with New Parts: Install the new camshaft(s) with fresh lubrication. Reinstall the phasers and timing chains, ensuring all timing marks align perfectly using your timing tools. This step is crucial—incorrect timing will cause the engine to run poorly or not at all, and can cause catastrophic damage.
6. Complete Reassembly: Install new valve cover gaskets and reassemble the valve covers. Reinstall all accessories, belts, and intake components. Refill the engine with new oil and a new filter. Refill the cooling system.
7. Prime and Start: Before starting, it's wise to prime the oil system by cranking the engine with the fuel pump fuse removed until oil pressure builds. Reinstall the fuse, reconnect the battery, and start the engine. Listen carefully for any abnormal noises. Expect some initial valve train noise as the lifters prime, but it should quiet down within a minute.

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Camshaft Kit (for affected bank - includes camshaft and often followers): Mopar 68100529AA (Right) / 68100530AA (Left) – Confirm exact part numbers for your specific VIN.
• Camshaft Roller Follower (Lifter) Kit: Mopar 68038921AA (Kit for one bank, 12 lifters)
• Valve Cover Gasket Set: Mopar 68255656AA
• Timing Chain Kit (highly recommended while you're in there): Mopar 68144490AA
• Engine Oil (6 quarts of 5W-20 or 5W-30, synthetic recommended)
• Oil Filter
• Engine Coolant (OAT, ~2 gallons)
• RTV Sealant (for specific timing cover areas as per service manual)

Tools:

• 3.6L Pentastar Engine Timing Tool Kit (MUST-HAVE)
• Complete metric socket and ratchet set (including torx and E-torx sockets)
• Torque wrench (inch-lbs and ft-lbs)
• Mechanic's stethoscope
• OBD-II Scanner
• Jack and jack stands (if needed for access)
• Drain pans for oil and coolant
• Shop towels and brake cleaner for cleaning surfaces

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a camshaft-related rattle varies dramatically between DIY and professional repair, and depends on whether you do a full timing job while accessing the camshafts.

• DIY Repair (Camshaft & Followers on One Bank): If you perform the labor yourself and source the parts, expect to spend between $600 and $1,200. This covers one new camshaft, a set of 12 roller followers, a full gasket set, oil, coolant, and the essential timing tool kit. The lower end assumes you only replace the bare minimum confirmed-bad parts; the higher end includes a full timing chain kit for preventative maintenance. The investment in the specialty timing tools (approx. $100-$200) is a one-time cost for future work.
• Professional Repair (Shop): Taking your Wrangler to a shop, especially a dealership, is significantly more expensive. For a camshaft and lifter replacement on one bank, labor times can exceed 10-12 hours due to the complexity. Parts markup will apply. Total bills for this repair commonly range from $2,500 to $4,000. If the dealership recommends a full timing chain replacement and addressing both banks, the cost can easily exceed $5,000.
• Owner Experience with Warranty: The financial impact underscores the value of warranty coverage, as mentioned by one fortunate owner: "Luckily I have the lifetime warranty, and it was covered" (source). Without such coverage, this repair is a major out-of-pocket expense.

Prevention

Preventing camshaft failure in your 2015 Wrangler revolves around rigorous maintenance and early intervention. The single most important practice is adhering to strict oil change intervals using high-quality synthetic oil and OEM-style filters. Consider changing your oil more frequently than the manufacturer's recommendation if you do a lot of stop-and-go driving, towing, or off-roading—every 5,000 miles is a safe benchmark for severe service. Clean oil is the lifeblood of the valvetrain.

Listen to your vehicle attentively. At the first sign of a new tick, tap, or rattle from the engine, investigate immediately. Early diagnosis of a failing roller follower can sometimes save the camshaft itself if caught before it scores the lobe. Using an oil analysis service at your next oil change can also provide an early warning by detecting elevated levels of wear metals like iron and chromium in the oil, signaling internal abrasion long before it becomes audible.

Finally, be proactive about related systems. Ensure your cooling system is functioning perfectly to prevent engine overheating, which can break down oil and increase wear. When performing other engine work, be meticulous about cleanliness to avoid introducing debris. As owners dealing with rust know, proactive care is everything: "Blast the rust off and get it oil sprayed. That’s what my Jeep (2015) looks like underneath right now and I’m getting an oil spray this year and I’ve had it since brand new" (source). This mindset of preventative protection applies under the hood as well.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from JEEP owners:

Owner Experiences

"I just picked this up from the original owner, he was heart broken. But I immediately took off the originals and got her tuned up." — [deleted] (source)

"But I immediately took off the originals and got her tuned up. What y’all think." — [deleted] (source)

"I had to have my heater core replaced in my 2015 wrangler, the service tech stated this was common because of sand left over from the casting. Luckily I have the lifetime warranty, and it was covered." — ICreatedTheMatrix_ (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Mechanic charged me $1800 to replace valve and get inside the engine to inspect. They suggested replacing cam shafts at a quote of an extra $5,000 or get an entire new engine at $11,000." — scrunchedsocks (source)

"They suggested replacing cam shafts at a quote of an extra $5,000 or get an entire new engine at $11,000. I asked how much rockers and lifters replacement will be and they quoted me at $2400 extra." — scrunchedsocks (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a camshaft rattle? A: For a skilled DIYer with the right tools, the job of replacing a camshaft and lifters on one bank can take a full weekend, or 12-16 hours of work, spread over two days. This includes time for careful disassembly, cleaning, and the meticulous timing procedure. A professional mechanic in a well-equipped shop might book 8-12 hours of labor for the same job.

Q: Can I drive my Jeep with a camshaft rattling noise? A: It is strongly advised not to drive the vehicle any more than absolutely necessary. A rattling or knocking from the valvetrain indicates active metal-on-metal wear. Continued driving will turn a component repair into a complete cylinder head or engine rebuild very quickly. If you must move it, drive slowly and directly to a repair facility.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2015 Wrangler? A: Yes, valvetrain noise and camshaft/lifter failures are a known and relatively common issue with the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine used in the 2015 JK Wrangler and many other Chrysler vehicles of that era. Owner forums and technical service bulletins (TSBs) from Chrysler acknowledge problems with roller follower failures, which lead to camshaft wear.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what’s recommended for this repair? A: This is a borderline repair. If you are an experienced DIYer with prior engine work, have a well-organized workspace, and are willing to invest in or rent the mandatory timing tools, it is a feasible but challenging job. The consequences of a mistake (like incorrect timing) are severe. For most owners, the scale and precision required make this a job best left to a trusted, experienced mechanic or specialty Jeep shop, despite the higher cost.

Q: Could the rattle be something else cheaper to fix? A: Always start with the simplest checks. A noisy valvetrain can sometimes be exacerbated by low oil pressure from a failing oil pump or a clogged oil filter. However, a distinct, localized knocking from the top of the engine, especially combined with misfire codes, strongly points to the camshaft and followers. Exhaust manifold cracks can also cause a ticking, but it's usually more of a consistent "tick-tick-tick" rather than a deeper knock.

Q: Should I replace both camshafts even if only one is noisy? A: It is a common and often recommended practice. If one bank has failed due to a manufacturing issue or debris, the other bank has been operating under the same conditions and may be nearing failure. While it doubles the parts cost, doing both sides while the engine is torn down saves you from paying the massive labor charge again in the near future. Many owners and mechanics opt to replace both as preventative maintenance.