How 2010 Eclipse Owners Fix Turbo Oil Leaks and Smoke

How to Fix Turbo Replacement

For 2010 Mitsubishi Eclipse owners, a turbocharger replacement is a significant but sometimes necessary undertaking to restore lost power and address critical drivability issues. This guide is built entirely from the experiences and data shared by Eclipse owners in online forums, focusing on the real-world symptoms, causes, and solutions they've encountered. When performance modifications are involved, the process becomes more complex. As one owner shared about their modified setup: "HPFP, AFPR, FMIC, 16g turbo, intercooler, apexi exhaust. - Confirmed spark, fuel pressure, and timing." — Caden Rhys (source). This quote highlights the interconnected systems you must verify during a turbo-related project.

Symptoms

Owners report several clear warning signs that point toward turbocharger failure or severe issues necessitating its replacement. The most direct symptom is visible smoke from the exhaust, specifically oil smoke, which indicates oil is being burned in the combustion chamber or exhaust stream. This is often described as "smog" from the tailpipe. As one owner explicitly stated the reason for their planned replacement: "I wanna change the turbo, because has a small oil leak and that thing do smog from the muffler." — EdBZSpyderGST97 (source).

Another major symptom is a significant loss of power or a crank-no-start condition, especially after modifications. Owners troubleshooting this find themselves checking all supporting systems. A common finding is poor engine compression or incorrect mechanical timing, which can be mistaken for or exacerbated by turbo failure. One owner's diagnostic journey is telling: "I did a compression test before setting the timing, which led me to correctly set the timing (Intake cam was off by a tooth)." — Caden Rhys (source). Unusual sounds are also a red flag. While not always a grinding sound from the turbo itself, any new mechanical noise under boost should be investigated immediately, as it can signify bearing failure within the turbocharger.

Finally, underlying issues like intake leaks are frequently cited as causes for poor performance that can lead to incorrect diagnosis or turbo damage. A leak in the pressurized intake tract after the turbo (post-intercooler piping, throttle body gasket, intercooler end tanks) causes unmetered air to enter the engine. This leads to a lean condition, potential misfires, and can cause the engine to run poorly, sometimes putting additional strain on the turbo as the engine control unit tries to compensate.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner data, the primary cause leading to turbo replacement or failure is an intake leak within the forced induction system. This is distinct from a simple vacuum leak on a naturally aspirated engine. In a turbocharged Eclipse, the entire intake tract from the turbo compressor outlet to the engine's intake manifold is under positive pressure (boost) when the turbo is spooled. A leak in this pressurized system—such as at couplers connecting intercooler piping, a cracked intercooler, or a faulty throttle body gasket—allows boosted air to escape.

This leak has a cascading effect. First, it causes a loss of boost pressure, resulting in a significant drop in power. Second, because the air escaping is unmetered (it has already passed the mass airflow sensor), the engine's computer injects fuel based on incorrect air data, leading to a lean air/fuel ratio. This lean condition can cause engine misfires, hesitation, and even detonation under load, which is extremely harmful. Over time, the turbo may over-spool or work harder than designed to try and reach target boost, accelerating wear on its bearings and seals, potentially leading to the oil leaks and smoke owners report. Therefore, while a worn turbo seal is the direct reason for replacement, an unresolved intake leak is often the underlying culprit that precipitated the failure.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing the need for a turbo replacement requires a systematic approach to rule out other common issues. You will need a basic mechanic's tool set, a boost pressure gauge or an OBD-II scanner capable of reading live data (including manifold absolute pressure), and a compression tester.

Step 1: Check for Obvious Leaks and Smoke. Visually inspect the entire intercooler piping system, from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Look for cracked pipes, loose hose clamps, oil residue at connections (indicating a leak), or damage to the front-mount intercooler (FMIC). Start the engine and look for blueish-white smoke from the exhaust, especially under acceleration or after idling, which indicates oil burning.

Step 2: Perform a Boost Leak Test. This is the most critical test. You will need a boost leak tester, which can be purchased or fabricated. Disconnect the intake pipe at the throttle body, seal the tester into the intake tract, and pressurize the system to about 20 psi using an air compressor. Listen carefully for the distinct sound of air escaping. Spray a soapy water solution on all intercooler pipe connections, the intercooler itself, the throttle body gasket, and the bypass valve (BOV) fittings. Bubbles will form at the site of any leak.

Step 3: Verify Engine Mechanical Health. Before blaming the turbo, confirm the engine itself is sound. Perform a compression test on all four cylinders. Low compression in one or more cylinders can cause symptoms similar to turbo failure (loss of power, smoke). As an owner found during their diagnosis, checking mechanical timing is also crucial: "I did a compression test before setting the timing, which led me to correctly set the timing (Intake cam was off by a tooth)." — Caden Rhys (source).

Step 4: Inspect the Turbocharger. With the intake piping removed from the turbo, check for shaft play. Grab the compressor wheel's center nut and try to wiggle it in-and-out (axial play) and up-and-down (radial play). A very small amount of radial play is normal, but any noticeable axial play or scraping indicates failed bearings. Also, look for signs of the compressor wheel contacting the housing or oil residue in the compressor or turbine housings.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing the turbocharger is an involved process. This guide assumes you are replacing a stock turbo with another unit (stock or upgraded like a 16G) and have already repaired any intake leaks.

Step 1: Gather Parts and Prepare. Secure all necessary parts (see list below). Ensure the new turbo is compatible with your oil feed and drain lines, coolant lines, and manifold. Allow the engine to cool completely. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Step 2: Remove Components for Access. Based on owner setups, you'll likely need to remove several parts. This includes the air intake system, the intercooler piping connected to the turbo, the upper heat shield, and the oxygen sensor connector. If you have a front-mount intercooler (FMIC), you may need to loosen or remove its piping. As one owner listed, supporting mods are common: "HPFP, AFPR, FMIC, 16g turbo, intercooler, apexi exhaust." — Caden Rhys (source).

Step 3: Disconnect Turbo Services. Carefully disconnect the oil feed line (usually a banjo bolt fitting) and the coolant lines from the turbo. Have rags ready to catch spills. Unbolt the oil drain tube from the bottom of the turbo and the block/oil pan. Disconnect the wastegate actuator arm from the flapper lever.

Step 4: Unbolt and Remove the Turbo. Unbolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold. This often involves difficult-to-reach bolts; long extensions and universal joints are helpful. Unbolt the downpipe from the turbo's turbine outlet. Support the turbo and carefully maneuver it out of the engine bay, noting its orientation.

Step 5: Prepare the New Turbo. If your new turbo did not come with one, install a new gasket between the turbo and exhaust manifold. It is highly recommended to pre-lube the new turbo's center cartridge by squirting a small amount of clean engine oil into the oil inlet and manually rotating the compressor wheel to distribute it.

Step 6: Install the New Turbo. Carefully guide the new turbo into position. Hand-start the bolts connecting it to the exhaust manifold and the downpipe. Tighten these bolts to the manufacturer's specification in a criss-cross pattern. Reconnect the oil drain tube.

Step 7: Reconnect Services and Components. Reconnect the oil feed line and coolant lines, using new crush washers for banjo bolts if applicable. Reconnect the wastegate actuator arm. Reinstall all intercooler piping, ensuring all couplers are secure and clamps are tight to prevent the intake leaks discussed earlier. Reconnect the oxygen sensor and any other electrical connections.

Step 8: Prime the Turbo Oil System. This is a critical step to prevent immediate bearing failure. Before starting the engine, pull the fuel pump fuse or relay. Crank the engine for 10-15 seconds, 2-3 times, to build oil pressure and circulate oil through the new turbo's bearings. Reinstall the fuse/relay.

Step 9: Initial Start and Check. Start the engine and let it idle. Immediately check for any fluid leaks (oil or coolant) at all the new connections. Listen for unusual sounds. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature while monitoring for smoke.

Step 10: Post-Installation Considerations. If you have installed a larger turbo (like a 16G), remember that supporting modifications are often required. As an owner inquired when upgrading: "What injectors should I get? I've been talking with a tuner he said since I have a bigger turbo I need to get a Evo fuel pump and Evo injectors." — ethans gst (source). A proper tune is essential for any significant turbo upgrade to ensure correct air/fuel ratios and timing.

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Turbocharger Assembly (e.g., MHI TD05H-16G for an upgrade, or OEM equivalent)
• Turbo-to-Manifold Gasket
• Turbo-to-Downpipe Gasket
• Exhaust Manifold Gasket (if disturbed)
• New Oil Feed Line Crush Washers (2x)
• High-Temperature Thread Lock (for manifold/turbo bolts)
• New Intercooler Pipe Couplers & T-Bolt Clamps (highly recommended to prevent leaks)
• Engine Oil & Filter (for post-installation change)
• Coolant

Tools:

• Basic Socket & Wrench Set (Metric, 8mm-19mm)
• Long Extensions, Universal Joints, and a Breaker Bar
• Torque Wrench
• Pliers and Screwdrivers
• Boost Leak Tester
• Compression Tester
• Oil Catch Pan and Rags
• Jack and Jack Stands (for accessing oil drain line)

Real Owner Costs

Costs vary dramatically based on whether you perform the work yourself, use a stock or upgraded turbo, and address supporting mods.

DIY with a Stock Replacement Turbo:

• Parts (Rebuilt/OEM Turbo, Gaskets, Fluids): $500 - $1,200
• Tools (if you need to purchase a boost leak tester, etc.): $100 - $200
• Total DIY Estimate: $600 - $1,400

DIY with a Performance Turbo Upgrade (16G example):

• New MHI 16G Turbo: $800 - $1,200
• Necessary Supporting Parts (550cc+ injectors, fuel pump, tuning solution like DSMLink): $800 - $1,500+
• Gaskets/Fluids: $150
• Total DIY Upgrade Estimate: $1,750 - $2,850+

Professional Shop Replacement:

• Parts (Shop markup): $800 - $1,500
• Labor (6-10 hours at $100-$150/hr): $600 - $1,500
• Total Professional Estimate: $1,400 - $3,000 for a stock replacement. A full upgrade with tuning at a shop could easily exceed $4,000.

The value of the DIY approach is clear, but it requires confidence and tools. As one owner reflected on the hobby's rewards, "The more I’ve read up on it the more stoked I am to have this car!" — ET 2G (source).

Prevention

Preventing premature turbo failure centers on maintenance and vigilance. The number one preventative measure is aggressively hunting down and fixing intake leaks. Perform a boost leak test annually or anytime you notice a drop in performance. Use high-quality oil and change it regularly with the correct weight; turbo bearings rely on a clean, consistent oil supply. Always allow the engine to idle for 30-60 seconds after hard driving before shutting it off. This "cool-down" idle allows oil to continue circulating and carrying heat away from the turbo's red-hot center cartridge, preventing oil from coking in the lines. Finally, if you modify the vehicle, ensure supporting systems are upgraded in tandem and the engine is properly tuned. Running a larger turbo on a stock fuel system and tune is a guaranteed path to engine or turbo damage.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from MITSUBISHI owners:

Success Stories

"And the videos had to be heavily compressed for distribution. By comparison, video files that stream instantly to your phone today are about 100x larger than what we worked with back then." — Intrusive97gsx (source)

"By comparison, video files that stream instantly to your phone today are about 100x larger than what we worked with back then. Also, watching a video on your phone?" — Intrusive97gsx (source)

Owner Experiences

"OK, so here's all the info I have now: - 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T with a 1999 Eclipse GS-T motor swapped into it. The old owner had DSMLink but kept it. - HPFP, AFPR, FMIC, 16g turbo, intercooler, apexi exhaust. - Confirmed spark, fuel pressure, and timing." — Caden Rhys (source)

"The old owner had DSMLink but kept it. - HPFP, AFPR, FMIC, 16g turbo, intercooler, apexi exhaust. - Confirmed spark, fuel pressure, and timing. I did a compression test before setting the timing, which led me to correctly set the timing (Intake cam was off by a tooth)." — Caden Rhys (source)

"Hi everyone my names Ben as from the title I do own a 97 Eclipse Spyder GS. It’s currently my “fun” car ofc I really wanted a GSX but don't have the money to spend on one." — Jay23 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a turbo? A: For a skilled DIYer with all tools and parts on hand, expect the job to take a full day, or 6-10 hours. This includes time for diagnosis, careful removal, installation, and the critical oil priming procedure. Your first time will likely take longer. Adding an intercooler or other mods extends the time.

Q: Can I drive with a turbo that's smoking or leaking oil? A: It is not recommended. Driving with an oil-leaking turbo can lead to several problems: excessive oil consumption can cause low oil levels and engine damage, oil dripping onto hot exhaust components is a fire hazard, and the root cause (like bearing failure) could worsen suddenly, potentially sending debris into the engine.

Q: Is turbo failure a common issue on the 2010 Eclipse? A: Based on owner discussions, turbo issues are a common topic, particularly among modified vehicles or those with high mileage. Failures often stem from related issues like intake leaks, lack of maintenance, or the stresses of aftermarket modifications rather than a universal factory defect.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for a turbo swap? A: This depends entirely on your mechanical skill, tool availability, and budget. DIY is cost-effective and rewarding but is a complex job involving tight spaces, fluid systems, and critical torque specs. If you are comfortable with tasks like timing belt changes, you can likely handle a turbo replacement. If the concept of a boost leak test is foreign, or if you are doing a major upgrade requiring tuning, a reputable performance mechanic is a wise investment. As one owner wisely sought guidance: "I've been talking with a tuner he said since I have a bigger turbo I need to get a Evo fuel pump and Evo injectors." — ethans gst (source).

Q: Do I need a tune if I upgrade to a 16G turbo? A: Absolutely, yes. A larger turbo moves more air. The factory engine computer is not calibrated for this increased airflow and will not command enough fuel, resulting in a dangerously lean condition under boost. At minimum, you need larger fuel injectors, a higher-capacity fuel pump, and a tuning solution like DSMLink, an SAFC, or a professional dyno tune to adjust fuel and timing maps.

Q: What should I check first if I'm losing boost? A: Before assuming the turbo is bad, perform a thorough boost leak test. The vast majority of "lost boost" issues are due to leaks in the intercooler piping, throttle body gasket, or bypass valve. This is a simple, inexpensive test that can save you from replacing a perfectly good turbocharger.