How to Replace Your Maxima's Brake Pads and Fix Stuck Calipers

How to Fix Brake Pads Replacement

Replacing the brake pads on your 2020 Nissan Maxima is a critical maintenance task that, when done correctly, restores safe stopping power and eliminates common noises. While the core process is straightforward, owners have encountered specific challenges related to caliper service, parking brake cable adjustment, and ensuring the entire brake system is healthy post-repair. As one owner shared while tackling a rear caliper rebuild: "I'm in the middle of rebuilding the rear brake caliper, but I have no idea on how to remove the center push rod from the caliper, FSM says remove ring C, then keyplate, and then push rod, but mine is just stuck inside....." — Veewee. This guide will walk you through the complete process, incorporating real-world experiences from Maxima owners to help you avoid common pitfalls.

Symptoms

The most direct symptom signaling it's time for new brake pads is a high-pitched squealing or squeaking noise when applying the brakes. This is often caused by the wear indicator tab on the pad making contact with the rotor. You may also notice a grinding or growling sound, which is more severe and indicates the pad material is completely worn away, allowing the metal backing plate to score the rotor. This requires immediate attention.

Beyond noise, you might feel physical changes in the brake pedal. A spongy or soft pedal that travels closer to the floor can indicate worn pads, but it's also a classic sign of air in the brake lines, which sometimes needs to be addressed during a pad swap. Conversely, a vibration or pulsation felt through the pedal or steering wheel during braking typically points to warped rotors, which often need to be resurfaced or replaced when installing new pads.

Owners have also connected brake work to other vehicle health indicators. For instance, incomplete brake service can lead to excessive heat and stress on components. One owner described a related overheating issue: "I have an 05 Max, and recently got a burning smell and smoke billowing out of the passenger side of the front hood when stuck in traffic." — vebong. While this was linked to a cooling system issue, it underscores how brake problems can manifest as heat and smell. Additionally, dragging brakes or a misadjusted parking brake can cause similar symptoms and put a strain on related systems.

Finally, don't ignore dashboard warnings. Although primarily for pad wear, persistent brake issues can sometimes trigger other lights. An owner noted an interplay with the vehicle's stability systems: "I did just get a TCS OFF SLIP Light and service light that came on for the first time. That light went off on next crank but still have the service light." — Roymg. Resetting the vehicle's computer by disconnecting the battery is a common first step after major brake work to clear spurious codes.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause necessitating a brake pad replacement is, unsurprisingly, normal friction wear from use. However, based on owner experiences, the most common complicating factor that turns a simple pad swap into a more involved job is seized or sticking caliper components. The brake caliper piston and its internal mechanisms, especially in the rear where the parking brake is integrated, are prone to corrosion and seizing over time. This is particularly true in regions that use road salt.

When a caliper piston or slide pin seizes, it can cause the pad to maintain constant contact with the rotor, leading to accelerated, uneven wear, excessive heat, and poor fuel economy. Owners attempting pad replacement often discover this issue when they cannot compress the piston back into the caliper bore to make room for the new, thicker pads. As highlighted in the owner quote, the internal push rod for the parking brake mechanism in the rear caliper can become stubbornly stuck, transforming a routine pad change into a full caliper rebuild or replacement. This underlying condition is why many owners find themselves dealing with more than just pads and rotors.

How to Diagnose

A proper diagnosis confirms pad wear and checks the health of the entire braking system. Start with a visual inspection. Look through the spokes of your wheel at the brake caliper. You should see the outer brake pad pressed against the rotor. Estimate the thickness of the pad material (not the metal backing plate). If it's less than 1/4 inch (about 3mm), replacement is due. Listen for the tell-tale high-frequency squeal of the wear indicator.

Next, perform a physical check of the calipers and related parts. Before jacking up the vehicle, drive it for a short while without heavy braking, then safely feel each wheel center. A wheel that is significantly hotter than the others likely has a sticking caliper or a binding parking brake shoe. Once the vehicle is safely raised and the wheel removed, inspect the caliper slide pins. They should move in and out of their rubber boots with firm, smooth pressure. If they are frozen, they need service.

Diagnose the caliper piston's condition. Before you try to compress it, check for fluid leaks around the piston boot. Then, using a proper clamp or piston compression tool, attempt to retract the piston. It should move steadily with moderate force. If it refuses to budge or moves extremely erratically, the caliper is likely seized. For rear calipers, diagnosis includes checking the parking brake function. The mechanism inside must retract fully when the brake is released. As one owner found during a big brake kit install, cable length and adjustment are critical: "The caliper is relocated further away so the cables no longer are able to reach. I assumed id get enough length by loosening the cable from inside the cabin but this still doesnt give enough." — Slamrod.

Finally, use an OBD-II scanner if any warning lights are present. While brake pad wear sensors may trigger a light, other lights like ABS or TCS/SLIP can illuminate if wheel speed sensors are disturbed or if the system detects an imbalance after work is done. Clearing these codes after repair is part of the diagnostic closure.

Step-by-Step Fix

1. Safety First & Preparation: Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels opposite the end you're working on. Gather all tools and parts. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you're starting with (usually front first) by about a quarter-turn while the vehicle is on the ground.

2. Remove the Wheel and Inspect: Jack up the vehicle and secure it on a quality jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Now, visually inspect the brake assembly. Note the orientation of the pads, the condition of the rotor, and look for any leaks. As one owner noted, a full system refresh is sometimes the history: "Not long after I got the car both rear calipers and all brakes were replace and I think they replaced the brake fluid then. I replaced pads and rotors again a few years ago." — usaf2000.

3. Remove the Caliper: There are typically two main bolts holding the caliper to its mounting bracket. On some models, these are slide pin bolts. Remove these bolts using the correct socket. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose! Secure it to the suspension with a bungee cord or wire.

4. Compress the Caliper Piston: This is a critical step. For the FRONT calipers, simply use a large C-clamp or a dedicated piston compression tool. Place the old brake pad against the piston and the clamp's foot on the back of the caliper. Slowly tighten the clamp until the piston is fully retracted. For the REAR calipers, which have an integrated parking brake, the piston must be rotated as it is pressed in. You will need a specific cube tool or a set of needle-nose pliers that fit into notches on the piston face. Turn and press simultaneously.

5. Install New Pads and Reassemble: Remove the old pads from the bracket. Clean the bracket where the pad ears contact it, using a wire brush if necessary. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to these contact points and to the slide pins. Install the new pads into the bracket. Carefully lower the caliper back over the pads and rotor, aligning the bolt holes. Reinstall and torque the caliper bolts to specification (often between 25-40 ft-lbs, consult a manual).

6. Repeat and Bleed (If Necessary): Repeat the process for the remaining wheels. It is highly recommended to do both axles (both fronts or both rears) at the same time. If you opened the brake fluid reservoir cap during piston compression or if the fluid is old, bleeding the brakes is a good practice. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw, submerge the other end in a bottle with fresh fluid, and have a helper pump the brake pedal and hold while you open and close the screw to purge air.

7. Final Steps and Bed-In: Reinstall all wheels and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification (typically 80-100 ft-lbs). Lower the vehicle. Pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm to restore hydraulic pressure. Before driving, check the brake fluid level and top up if needed with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. Finally, perform a proper bed-in procedure for the new pads: make 5-6 moderate stops from 35 mph down to 10 mph, then 2-3 harder stops from 45 mph, allowing time for cooling between cycles.

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Brake Pads (Front Set): e.g., Centric 105.10720 or equivalent ceramic/semi-metallic set.
• Brake Pads (Rear Set): e.g., Centric 105.10920.
• Brake Rotors (Optional/if needed): Centric 120.40052 (Front) & 120.40053 (Rear).
• Brake Caliper (Optional/if seized): Cardone 19-1009 (Reman Front) or similar.
• High-Temperature Brake Grease/Sil-Glyde.
• Brake Fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4), 1 quart.

Tools:

• Floor Jack and at least two Jack Stands.
• Lug Nut Wrench and Socket Set (including 17mm, 19mm, etc.).
• Torque Wrench.
• C-Clamp or Piston Compression Tool.
• Rear Caliper Piston Rewind Tool (Cube style).
• Wire Brush.
• Brake Bleeder Kit (one-man kit with bottle and hose).
• Gloves and Safety Glasses.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to replace brake pads on a 2020 Nissan Maxima varies dramatically based on whether you DIY, use aftermarket parts, or need additional components like rotors or calipers.

DIY Costs: If you only need pads and have the tools, this is very affordable. A quality set of front and rear ceramic pads can cost between $120 - $200 total. Add another $150 - $300 if you need to replace front and rear rotors as well. If a caliper is seized, a remanufactured unit adds $80 - $150 per corner, plus the cost of extra brake fluid. A full DIY job with pads, rotors, and one new caliper could land in the $400 - $650 range, but your labor is free.

Professional Shop Costs: Shop rates and markup on parts increase the cost significantly. A standard pad replacement (front or rear) at an independent shop typically runs $250 - $400 per axle. If rotors are replaced simultaneously, expect $450 - $700 per axle. Dealership prices are often 20-40% higher. Therefore, a complete brake job (pads and rotors on all four wheels) at a shop can easily cost $900 - $1,500 or more. As one owner's experience implies, caliper replacement adds substantial labor: "Not long after I got the car both rear calipers and all brakes were replace..." — usaf2000. That kind of comprehensive repair at a shop would likely exceed $1,200 for parts and labor on just the rear.

Prevention

Preventing premature brake wear and caliper issues starts with driving habits. Avoid "riding" the brake pedal and use engine braking when safe. Have your brakes inspected annually, or with every other oil change. During tire rotations, ask the technician to check pad thickness and lubricate the caliper slide pins—this is a simple, often overlooked service that prevents seizing.

Every two to three years, or as specified in your manual, flush the brake fluid. Old, moisture-contaminated fluid boils at a lower temperature and accelerates internal corrosion in the calipers and wheel cylinders, leading to sticky pistons. Using the correct type of brake pad for your driving (ceramic for low dust and quiet operation, semi-metallic for higher performance) also affects longevity.

Finally, after driving through deep water, car washes, or in winter slush, apply the brakes gently several times while driving to dry off the rotors and components, which helps prevent corrosion that can freeze the pads to the rotors or seize the slide pins.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Owner Experiences

"Not long after I got the car both rear calipers and all brakes were replace and I think they replaced the brake fluid then. I replaced pads and rotors again a few years ago." — usaf2000 (source)

"Im installing the rear BBK kit made by fastbrakes and ive run into a snag with my parking brake cables. The caliper is relocated further away so the cables no longer are able to reach." — Slamrod (source)

"The caliper is relocated further away so the cables no longer are able to reach. I assumed id get enough length by loosening the cable from inside the cabin but this still doesnt give enough." — Slamrod (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "I then turned on the lights, radio, hazards, heater fan and was still getting 14.2V at the battery. After turning off the car, battery was giving my 13.1V." — maximanut2001 (source)

⚠️ "That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light.Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today. I wonder, had both back wheel bearings replaced last fall." — Roymg (source)

⚠️ "I did just get a TCS OFF SLIP Light and service light that came on for the first time. That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light.Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today." — Roymg (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace brake pads? A: For a first-timer with all tools ready, plan for 2-3 hours to do both front or both rear brakes. Doing all four corners can take 4-5 hours, especially if you encounter stuck hardware or decide to bleed the system. An experienced DIYer can often complete one axle in under 90 minutes.

Q: Can I drive with squealing brakes? A: A light, intermittent squeal from wear indicators means you should plan service soon. A consistent grinding or growling noise means the pads are metal-on-metal and you risk scoring the rotors. Driving in this state is unsafe and will turn a pad job into a much more expensive pad-and-rotor job. Stop driving if possible and have it towed.

Q: Is brake pad replacement a common issue on the Maxima? A: Yes, brake pad replacement is a universal wear-and-tear maintenance item on all vehicles, including the Maxima. The common complicating factor owners report isn't the pad wear itself, but related issues like seized rear caliper pistons or slide pins, which are common in many modern vehicles.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? A: If you are mechanically inclined, have the proper tools (especially a jack, stands, and torque wrench), and are only doing pads, DIY is very achievable and offers significant savings. However, if you discover seized components, need to bleed the ABS module, or lack confidence, a professional is recommended. As the owner struggling with a caliper rebuild noted, procedures can get complex: "FSM says remove ring C, then keyplate, and then push rod, but mine is just stuck inside....." — Veewee.

Q: Do I need to replace my rotors every time I change pads? A: Not necessarily. Rotors should be measured with a micrometer for minimum thickness and checked for deep grooves, cracks, or severe warping. If they are within specification and can be smoothly resurfaced ("turned"), you can reuse them. However, many modern rotors are thin from the factory, making resurfacing risky, and most shops now recommend replacement with new pads for optimal performance and warranty.

Q: Why is my brake pedal soft after changing pads? A: This is normal initially. Pump the pedal 5-10 times with the engine off to move the pistons back into contact with the pads. If it remains soft or spongy, you likely have air in the brake lines, which was introduced when compressing the pistons if the reservoir was overfull, or from a pre-existing issue. This necessitates a proper brake bleed.