Why is Your 2025 RAM Cruiser Getting Poor Gas Mileage?

The Basics

You fill up the tank, reset the trip meter, and it feels like you're back at the pump in no time. Poor fuel economy, or worse-than-expected gas mileage, is one of the most common and frustrating car problems. It's not just about the cost; it often signals that your vehicle isn't running as efficiently as it should. Based on an analysis of 100 owner discussions, this issue spans all vehicle types and rarely has a single, simple answer. It's usually a process of tracking down the culprit, which could be anything from your driving habits to a hidden mechanical fault.

Common Indicators

Owners reporting poor fuel economy don't just see a lower number on the dashboard display. They describe a tangible, expensive experience. The most common indicator is simply needing to fill the gas tank more often for your regular driving routes. Many people report a sudden or gradual drop in their calculated miles per gallon (MPG), sometimes by 3-5 MPG or more. You might also notice your car feels a bit more sluggish or that the engine is working harder during normal acceleration. In discussions, owners frequently mention that the "instant MPG" gauge on their dash shows much lower readings during cruising than it used to.

What's Behind It

Based on confirmed fixes and owner reports from the discussions, the causes are varied. While no OBD codes were specifically highlighted in this data set, the parts mentioned point to some key areas. A frequent mechanical culprit involves intake manifold gaskets. When these fail, they allow unmetered air into the engine, confusing the computer and creating a lean condition that the car tries to correct by using more fuel. Issues with the steering rack and suspension were also noted. This is less obvious, but a binding steering system or dragging brakes (often related to suspension/caliper issues) creates constant resistance, forcing the engine to work harder to move the car. Simple factors like aggressive driving, under-inflated tires, and using roof racks are also consistently reported as major contributors.

Identifying the Cause

Pinpointing the cause requires a mix of observation and methodical checking. Start with the simplest and cheapest possibilities first. Track your mileage manually over several tanks; the car's computer isn't always accurate. Check your tire pressure—this is a huge, free fix for many people. Listen for any new hissing sounds from the engine bay that could indicate a vacuum or intake leak. Feel your wheels after a drive; if one is significantly hotter than the others, you may have a dragging brake caliper. Pay attention to how the car feels; does it pull to one side or does the steering feel stiff? That could point to the steering or suspension issues mentioned in the forums. While no codes were prevalent in this data, using an OBD-II scanner to check for pending codes is still a smart, low-cost diagnostic step.

What Actually Works

Here are the solutions ranked by frequency of success and cost, starting with the most accessible.

1. Address Driving Habits & Basic Maintenance (Most Common DIY Fix): This solved issues for a significant number of owners. Ease off aggressive acceleration and hard braking, remove unnecessary weight from the trunk, and take off roof racks when not in use. Ensure tires are inflated to the door-jamb spec and perform regular oil/air filter changes.
2. Diagnose and Repair Intake Leaks: A very common mechanical fix in the discussions. Faulty intake manifold gaskets were a confirmed culprit. Using carb cleaner or starter fluid to spray around the intake manifold (with the engine running) can help identify a leak—if the engine RPM changes, you've found it. Replacing these gaskets often restored proper MPG.
3. Inspect Brakes, Steering, and Suspension: If the basics don't help, look for rolling resistance. A seized brake caliper or a binding steering rack will tank your mileage. Jack up each wheel and spin it by hand; they should all rotate freely with minimal drag. Any stiffness or grinding needs investigation.
4. Professional Diagnostic: If you've exhausted the above, a professional mechanic can perform a smoke test to find elusive vacuum leaks, scan for deeper computer data, and conduct a thorough inspection of fuel and ignition systems not easily tested at home.

Repair Costs

Costs vary dramatically based on the root cause and whether you DIY.

• DIY (Driving Habits & Minor Fixes): $0 - $150. Correcting your driving and inflating tires is free. A new air filter is $15-$30. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner is under $10. Replacing intake manifold gaskets yourself might cost $50-$150 for the parts kit but saves hundreds in labor.
• Professional Repair (Mechanical Issues): $200 - $1,000+. Replacing intake manifold gaskets at a shop typically ranges from $400 to $800 due to the labor-intensive process. A steering rack replacement is a major job, often costing $1,000 to $1,500. Repairing a dragging brake caliper is less expensive, usually between $200 and $400 per axle.
• Diagnostic Fee: Most shops charge $100 - $150 for a diagnostic session, which is often applied to the repair cost if you proceed.

Preventive Measures

The best way to avoid poor fuel economy is consistent, proactive care. Stick to your vehicle's scheduled maintenance, especially air filter changes and using the correct grade of oil. Make a monthly habit of checking your tire pressure. Pay attention to changes in how your car drives or sounds—a new noise or feeling of drag is an early warning sign. Avoid the "drive it until it breaks" mentality; addressing small issues like a slight pull or a minor vacuum leak early can prevent them from becoming major MPG-killers later.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 100 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.