Clicking Noise Issues on the 2021 Toyota 4Runner: What Owners Report

How to Fix Clicking Noise

A clicking noise in your 2021 Toyota 4Runner can be a disconcerting sound, often signaling that something in the drivetrain or suspension needs attention. While it might be tempting to ignore an intermittent noise, especially if there are no accompanying dashboard warning lights, addressing it promptly can prevent more serious and costly damage. The noise is often linked to wear in high-mileage components or issues stemming from modifications. As one owner of a high-mileage example shared, their concern began when "The suv has about 105,000 miles on it, the shake happens at about 25 and 40 mph when under light acceleration" (source), highlighting how symptoms can manifest during specific driving conditions. This guide will walk you through diagnosing and resolving the common causes of clicking and related noises based on real owner experiences.

Symptoms

Owners of the 2021 4Runner report a specific set of symptoms that accompany or are related to clicking noises. The most common report is a grinding or scraping noise at low speeds. This sound is often more pronounced during slow turns, when pulling away from a stop, or when navigating parking lots. It may not be a constant click but rather a rhythmic scraping or grinding that corresponds with wheel rotation. Importantly, many owners note that this occurs with no dash lights illuminated, meaning the truck's computer isn't detecting a fault that would trigger a check engine light or other warning.

Another frequently reported symptom is a shudder or shake under light acceleration. This is distinct from the noise but often reported in conjunction with it, suggesting a related drivetrain issue. As one owner meticulously described, "the shake happens at about 25 and 40 mph when under light acceleration, if I let go of the gas it disappears. It does not happen either when I accelerate more aggressively" (source). This pinpoint accuracy—25 and 40 mph—is a classic sign of a resonance issue within the driveline, often tied to U-joints or axle components beginning to fail. Drivers also consistently report that braking feels normal, which helps isolate the problem to the acceleration and drive systems rather than the brake rotors, calipers, or pads.

The context of the vehicle's history and modifications is also a key symptom indicator. Many 4Runners, especially TRD Off-Road and Pro models, are modified for adventure. An owner who purchased a used model noted, "The previous owner added a bunch of bells and whistles — extra lights, a roof rack, a compressor" (source). Aftermarket modifications like lifts, larger tires, and roof racks can alter suspension geometry and increase strain on stock components, accelerating wear that leads to noises. Therefore, understanding what has been added to the truck is a crucial part of diagnosing the symptom.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the synthesis of owner reports, the most likely cause of a clicking noise in a 2021 Toyota 4Runner is wear and failure in the front axle components, specifically the Constant Velocity (CV) joints or related axle shaft parts. The symptoms described—grinding/scraping at low speeds, shudder at specific acceleration points, and no dash lights—align perfectly with failing CV joints. In a 4WD vehicle like the 4Runner, the front axles contain CV joints that allow power to be transmitted to the front wheels while accommodating steering and suspension movement. When the protective CV boot tears, grease leaks out and contaminants like dirt and moisture get in. This leads to the joint wearing out, resulting in a distinct clicking or popping noise, most audible during turns when the joint is at its greatest angle.

The shudder under light acceleration reported by owners is another hallmark of driveline issues. While it could point to a transmission or driveshaft concern, its coincidence with likely clicking noises strongly suggests the problem originates at the wheels. A worn CV joint or a failing wheel bearing can create vibration that is felt in the cabin as a shudder, particularly at the throttle-sensitive speeds of 25-40 mph. The high mileage on many reported cases supports this; one owner's truck had 105,000 miles, which is within the expected service life for these wear items, especially if the vehicle has seen off-road use or carries added weight from modifications. As one owner looking at a used model wisely asked, "Besides frame rust, what else should I make sure to look for?" (source). Clicking from the front end should be high on that inspection list.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a clicking noise requires a systematic approach to isolate the sound's location and cause. You'll need a safe, level space to work like a driveway or garage, a jack and jack stands rated for your truck's weight, a flashlight, and a mechanic's stethoscope (a long screwdriver can work in a pinch). First, conduct a driving test. Have a passenger listen carefully to pinpoint if the noise comes from the front or rear, left or right. Note if it happens only when turning (indicative of an outer CV joint), during acceleration (pointing to an inner CV joint or driveline), or at all times (suggesting a wheel bearing).

Next, perform a visual inspection with the truck safely raised and supported on jack stands. Never rely solely on a jack. Rotate each front wheel by hand and listen for grinding. Grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and try to rock it in and out. Any play or clunking suggests a worn wheel bearing. Then, grab the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and rock it; play here may indicate a tie rod issue. The most critical step is inspecting the CV axles. Shine your flashlight on the rubber CV boots surrounding the joints near the wheel and the transmission. Look for any cracks, tears, or holes. A torn boot is a near-guarantee that the joint inside is contaminated and failing. Check for evidence of grease slung around the inside of the wheel or underbody—this is a telltale sign of a breached boot.

For the shudder symptom, a test drive is the best diagnostic tool. Try to replicate the exact conditions: light acceleration to 25 and 40 mph. If the shudder is present, note if it changes when you slightly turn the steering wheel while accelerating. If the shudder diminishes or changes during a turn, it further points to a load shift on a failing CV joint. If the shudder is constant and doesn't change with steering, the issue could be deeper in the driveline, such as a worn carrier bearing or unbalanced driveshaft. Since owners report braking feels normal, you can generally rule out warped rotors as a cause for the vibration.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a faulty CV axle assembly is the most definitive fix for a clicking noise caused by a worn joint. This is a moderately advanced DIY job that requires specific tools. Here is a step-by-step guide based on standard mechanical procedures for this platform.

1. Gather Parts and Tools: Ensure you have the new CV axle assembly, a fresh bottle of the correct transmission fluid (for automatic models), a new axle nut, and a new circlip if not included. Tools needed include a jack, jack stands, lug wrench, socket set (including a large socket for the axle nut, typically 30mm or 32mm), breaker bar, torque wrench, pry bar, ball joint separator or pickle fork, and a mallet.
2. Secure the Vehicle: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Loosen the lug nuts on the affected wheel slightly before lifting. Jack up the front of the truck and support it securely on jack stands under the frame. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the Axle Nut: This is often the most challenging step due to its high torque. Use your breaker bar and the correct socket to break the axle nut free. You may need to have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the hub from spinning. Once loose, you can fully remove it after the axle is free from the hub.
4. Disconnect Suspension Components: To create enough space to pull the axle out, you need to separate the upper ball joint or the lower control arm from the steering knuckle. Using the ball joint separator tool, carefully pop the joint free. Do not damage the rubber boot. You can now gently pull the steering knuckle/hub assembly outward, away from the axle.
5. Remove the Axle from the Differential: Position a drain pan underneath the differential. Using a pry bar carefully inserted between the inner CV joint and the differential case, pry the axle out. It should pop free with some effort. Be ready for some transmission fluid to leak out once the axle is removed.
6. Install the New Axle: Clean the mating surface on the differential. Insert the new axle's inner joint into the differential, ensuring it seats fully with a solid "click" from the new circlip. Guide the outer CV joint stub through the hub.
7. Reassemble Suspension: Push the steering knuckle back into position and reconnect the ball joint. Torque the ball joint nut to factory specification (consult a service manual).
8. Install New Axle Nut and Wheel: Before tightening the axle nut, reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle so its weight is on the tires. This ensures the wheel bearings are loaded correctly when you torque the nut. Install the new axle nut and torque it to the high specification (often over 200 ft-lbs). Finish by staking the nut or installing a cotter pin if applicable.
9. Check Fluid Level: Top up the transmission fluid to the correct level as some will have been lost.
10. Test Drive: Take the truck for a slow test drive, listening carefully for the clicking noise. Perform several left and right turns to confirm the fix. As one owner who appreciated their truck's longevity might say, the goal is to ensure your 4Runner remains reliable for years to come, just as another celebrated: "4 years and 50k miles later she’s officially all mine" (source).

Parts and Tools Needed

For a CV axle replacement, you will need the following specific parts and tools. Using quality parts is crucial for longevity.

Parts:

• CV Axle Assembly: Ensure it is for the 2021 4Runner and matches your trim (2WD/4WD). OEM part numbers vary, but a common aftermarket alternative is a reputable brand like Cardone, GSP, or NAPA. An OEM Toyota axle is ideal but more expensive.
• Axle Nut: This is a one-time-use, crimp-style nut. Toyota Part #90105-14001 (or equivalent).
• Transmission Fluid: For automatic models, Toyota WS ATF is required. You'll need approximately 1 quart to top off after the repair.
• Circlip: Often included with a new axle assembly, but it's good to have a spare.

Tools:

• 3-Ton Floor Jack and Jack Stands (2)
• Lug Wrench / Impact Socket Set
• Socket Set: Standard and metric, including a 30mm or 32mm deep socket for the axle nut.
• Breaker Bar (at least 24 inches)
• Torque Wrench (capable of at least 250 ft-lbs)
• Ball Joint Separator Tool (e.g., pickle fork or press-style tool)
• Pry Bar
• Mallet
• Drain Pan
• Funnel
• Mechanic's Gloves and Safety Glasses

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a clicking noise varies dramatically between DIY and professional repair, and is influenced by whether you use OEM or aftermarket parts.

DIY Repair Cost: If you tackle the CV axle replacement yourself, your cost is primarily parts. A quality aftermarket CV axle assembly can range from $150 to $300. An OEM Toyota axle from a dealer can cost $400 to $600 or more. Add about $10 for a new axle nut and $15 for a quart of transmission fluid. Your total DIY investment is between $175 and $625, depending on part choice. This represents massive savings, as you avoid labor charges. This makes a repair more palatable, even on a higher-mileage truck like the one an owner considered for $34,470 with 80k miles (source).

Professional Repair Cost: At a repair shop or dealership, you will pay for parts and labor. Labor time for one CV axle replacement is typically 1.5 to 2.5 hours. At an average labor rate of $125-$175 per hour, that's $190 to $440 in labor alone. Combined with parts:

• Aftermarket Parts at Independent Shop: $150 (part) + $300 (labor) = Approx. $450 total.
• OEM Parts at Dealership: $500 (part) + $440 (labor) = Approx. $940 total.

These are significant repairs, but crucial for maintaining the vehicle's value and safety. It's a cost of ownership for a capable, high-mileage vehicle, as owners understand when they invest in models with over 100,000 miles.

Prevention

Preventing premature CV joint failure and related clicking noises revolves around regular inspection and mindful driving.

1. Regular Visual Inspections: Every time you change your oil or rotate your tires, take a moment to look at the CV boots. Shine a flashlight on the rubber bellows. Catching a small tear early allows you to simply replace the boot and repack the joint with grease, a repair that costs under $50 instead of $500+ for a full axle.
2. Be Mindful of Modifications: If you add a lift kit, larger tires, or heavy accessories like a roof rack and compressor, understand that they increase stress on drivetrain components. As one owner found, their truck came with "a roof rack, a compressor" (source). After modifications, consider more frequent driveline inspections.
3. Avoid Extreme Angles Under Power: When off-roading, try to avoid applying heavy throttle when your front wheels are turned at a sharp angle and the suspension is fully articulated. This puts maximum strain on the CV joints.
4. Listen to Your Truck: Address unusual noises immediately. A faint click that only happens on full-lock turns will quickly become a loud grind during normal driving if ignored. Proactive maintenance is key to enjoying the truck for the long haul, as owners plan to do when they take it "on a road trip to go adventure" (source).

What Owners Say

Real experiences from TOYOTA owners:

Owner Experiences

"Sure she’s a pre-facelift, but 4 years and 50k miles later she’s officially all mine. First pic is her when I brought her home, second pic is what she looks like today." — guntymcshmee (source)

"The only 4Runner in my budget with an odometer that didn’t start with a 1xx,xxx back in the crazy used car market of 2021. Sure she’s a pre-facelift, but 4 years and 50k miles later she’s officially all mine." — guntymcshmee (source)

"Bought a 2021 SR5 Premium and within two weeks took the family on a road trip to go adventure around Moab. Can’t wait to get this thing on the dirt again :)" — psyyydoc (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "Carfax looks good, a lot of maintenance records and no accidents. Besides frame rust, what else should I make sure to look for?" — Foglestein (source)

Real Repair Costs

"Good deal? 2021 TRD ORP with 80k miles, $34,470 Been looking for my first 4Runner for a little bit." — Foglestein (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a clicking CV axle? A: For a experienced DIYer with the right tools, replacing a single CV axle typically takes 2 to 3 hours from start to finish, including jacking up the vehicle and cleanup. A professional mechanic at a shop can usually complete the job in 1.5 to 2 hours. Your first time may take longer, so plan for a half-day project.

Q: Can I drive my 4Runner with a clicking CV joint? A: You can drive it, but you should do so with extreme caution and only to get it to a repair facility. A clicking CV joint is in a state of active failure. If it seizes or breaks completely while driving, it can leave you stranded, cause loss of vehicle control, or damage the transmission differential. The risk increases dramatically. It is not a "drive it for months" kind of problem.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2021 4Runner? A: CV joint wear is not a model-specific defect but a common wear item on any 4WD vehicle with high mileage or hard use. The 4Runner's reputation for durability means owners often push them to high mileages where these components naturally wear out. With many examples now reaching 80,000 to 105,000 miles, reports of driveline noises are becoming more frequent in owner discussions, as seen in our data.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this repair? A: This is a high-reward DIY job if you are mechanically inclined and have the necessary tools (especially a strong breaker bar and torque wrench). It involves heavy torquing and suspension disassembly, which can be intimidating. If you are not comfortable separating ball joints or applying over 200 ft-lbs of torque correctly, hiring a professional is strongly recommended to ensure safety and proper installation. The cost savings of DIY are significant, but so are the risks of improper installation.

Q: Could the shudder at 25-40 mph be something else? A: Yes, while a failing CV joint or wheel bearing is the prime suspect when paired with noise, a shudder under light acceleration alone could also be caused by a slightly out-of-balance driveshaft, a worn carrier bearing, or even a minor transmission issue like a slipping torque converter. However, the absence of such shudder during aggressive acceleration, as reported by owners, makes driveline imbalance less likely and points more directly to a component that loads differently under light throttle, like a CV joint.

Q: Do I need to get an alignment after replacing a CV axle? A: Typically, no. Replacing the CV axle itself does not directly alter your wheel alignment settings (camber, toe, caster). However, the process involves separating a ball joint. If you do not reattach it exactly as it was, it could theoretically cause a slight shift. It's a good practice to have your alignment checked afterward, especially if you notice the steering wheel is off-center or the truck pulls after the repair, but it is not an automatic requirement.

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