Fixing Caliper Issues on Your 2020 Chevrolet Corvette

Bottom Line

If your car is pulling to one side, shaking when braking, or you hear constant grinding, you likely have a stuck or seized brake caliper. Based on owner reports, the most common and effective solution is to replace the faulty caliper entirely, which resolved the issue in the majority of cases discussed. While a rebuild or cleaning is sometimes possible, replacement is often the most reliable long-term fix.

Red Flags

Owners describing caliper problems reported several consistent warning signs. The most frequently mentioned symptom (cited in all 3 discussions) is the vehicle pulling sharply to one side when you apply the brakes. This happens because the stuck caliper is clamping its brake pad unevenly.

Other common red flags include:

• A constant metallic grinding or scraping noise, even when you're not pressing the brake pedal.
• A burning smell coming from a wheel, caused by excessive heat from the stuck brake pad.
• Uneven brake pad wear, where the pads on one wheel are completely worn down while the others look fine.
• Reduced braking power and a spongy brake pedal, which could also indicate air in the lines or a fluid issue related to the caliper problem.

Quick Repair Guide

The straightforward fix for a confirmed bad caliper is to replace it with a new or quality remanufactured unit. This is a one-and-done solution that addresses the internal piston, seals, and sliding mechanism all at once. You'll typically replace the caliper on the affected side, along with a fresh set of brake pads for that axle and new brake fluid. While this is the most common path to success, always check the flexible brake hose leading to the caliper, as a collapsed hose can mimic caliper seizure symptoms.

Step-by-Step Solutions

Here are the solutions ranked from most common/reliable to more situational fixes.

1. Full Caliper Replacement (Most Common Fix)

This was the definitive solution in the majority of owner reports. A new caliper ensures all internal components are free of corrosion and functioning correctly.

1. Safely lift and secure the vehicle, then remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake pads from the faulty caliper.
3. Unbolt the brake line from the caliper (have a plug or container ready for fluid).
4. Unbolt the caliper from its mounting bracket and remove it.
5. Install the new caliper, reconnect the brake line, and install new pads.
6. Crucially, bleed the brake system to remove all air, starting at the caliper you just replaced.

2. Caliper Rebuild Kit (Cost-Saver Attempt)

If the caliper body and piston are not deeply corroded, you can attempt a rebuild. This is a cheaper parts option but requires more labor and mechanical confidence.

1. Remove the caliper from the vehicle as in Step 1 above.
2. Use compressed air to gently pop the piston out of its bore.
3. Thoroughly clean the piston and the caliper bore.
4. Install a new seal and dust boot from the rebuild kit.
5. Reassemble, reinstall, and bleed the system. Owners had mixed success here; if corrosion is present, replacement is safer.

3. Clean and Lubricate Slide Pins (First Diagnostic Step)

Before condemning the caliper itself, always check the slide pins. These allow the caliper to float and can seize, causing similar symptoms. This is the cheapest and easiest thing to try first.

1. Remove the caliper from its mounting bracket (usually two bolts) without disconnecting the brake line—hang it safely with wire.
2. Pull the rubber boots off the slide pins and remove the pins from the bracket.
3. Clean the pins thoroughly with brake cleaner and a rag. If they are pitted or rusty, replace them.
4. Lubricate them with high-temperature silicone brake grease and reassemble.

Price Breakdown

Costs can vary widely by vehicle, but here are general ranges based on forum estimates.

• DIY (Doing It Yourself):

  • Parts: A single remanufactured caliper typically costs $50 - $150. A rebuild kit is only $15 - $30. Add $30 - $80 for a quality set of brake pads for one axle, and $10 - $20 for brake fluid.
  • Total DIY Range: $70 - $250 for the most common single-caliper replacement job.

• Professional Shop Repair:

  • Parts & Labor: Expect to pay $200 - $400 per axle for the job. This usually includes replacing both calipers on that axle (for balance), new pads, and a fluid flush. Replacing just one caliper at a shop might be in the $150 - $300 range.
  • The significant labor cost comes from the required brake system bleeding, which is non-negotiable for safety.

Prevention Guide

Preventing caliper issues is mostly about combating corrosion and moisture.

1. Brake Fluid is Key: Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, which leads to internal corrosion in the caliper. Flush your brake fluid every 2-3 years as recommended in your manual. This was highlighted in discussions as a critical maintenance item.
2. Service During Pad Changes: Whenever you replace your brake pads, always clean and re-grease the caliper slide pins with proper brake grease. This simple 10-minute task prevents most slide-related seizures.
3. Wash Your Wheels: Regularly rinsing brake dust off your wheels, especially in winter after road salt exposure, helps reduce corrosive buildup on caliper components.
4. Listen and Feel: Pay attention to the early red flags mentioned above. Addressing a slight pull or noise early can prevent a full seizure that ruins your rotor and pads.

This analysis is based on 3 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.