How to Fix a Squeaking or Clunking Control Arm on Your 2010 Silverado

How to Fix Control Arm Issue

For owners of the 2010 Chevrolet Silverado, addressing worn-out control arms is a common maintenance task that can significantly improve ride quality and safety. This guide compiles real-world experiences from Silverado owners to help you diagnose, repair, and prevent control arm issues. As one owner planning an upgrade shared, "We are slowly replacing stuff that needs to be done, and upper control arms with struts are the next thing to do." (source)

Symptoms

Owners report several key symptoms that point to failing control arms, ball joints, or related suspension components. The most common complaint is a persistent squeaking or rattling noise from the front end, especially when driving over bumps or uneven pavement. This noise is often the first sign of worn bushings or a ball joint that has lost its lubrication and is beginning to fail.

Another symptom is a vague or loose feeling in the steering. You might notice the truck doesn't track as straight as it used to, requiring more small corrections to keep it in your lane. This can be accompanied by uneven tire wear, particularly on the inside edges of the front tires, which indicates the alignment is changing due to excessive play in the suspension components. In more advanced cases, you may feel a vibration or shimmy through the steering wheel at certain speeds.

While not directly a control arm symptom, some owners encounter electrical gremlins during their suspension work. For instance, one owner found that disconnecting the battery was part of their troubleshooting process for a separate no-start issue, stating, "Would typically have battery disconnected during this time so not sure if that is just what fixed it before but the message was gone and I was able to start the truck as normal." (source). It's a reminder to always disconnect the battery when working near electrical components or sensors in the wheel wells.

Most Likely Cause

Based on aggregated owner reports, the primary cause for control arm replacement on these trucks is the natural wear and tear of the rubber bushings and ball joints. These components are under constant stress from road impacts, vehicle weight, and steering forces. Over time, the rubber in the bushings dries out, cracks, and deteriorates, leading to movement and noise. Similarly, the ball joints, which are the pivot points between the control arms and the steering knuckle, wear out from friction and can lose their protective grease.

Owners often discover the need for replacement during planned suspension upgrades or while addressing other age-related issues. The desire to improve the vehicle, such as adding a leveling kit, frequently prompts a deeper inspection that reveals worn factory parts. As one owner noted, "I’ve been slowly upgrading the suspension on my truck." (source). This proactive approach often uncovers that the original control arms or their integral joints have exceeded their service life and require attention.

How to Diagnose

A proper diagnosis can save you from replacing parts that are still good. Start with a visual inspection. With the truck safely supported on jack stands and the wheels off, look at the control arm bushings. Check where the arm bolts to the frame for large cracks, tears, or chunks of missing rubber. Look for signs of the bushing metal sleeve shifting or rotating within its mount.

The most critical test is checking for play in the ball joints. For the upper ball joint, place a pry bar or large screwdriver under the tire and lift upward. Have a helper watch the joint where the ball joint stud connects to the steering knuckle. Any visible upward movement indicates excessive wear. For the lower ball joint, you'll need to support the lower control arm with a jack so the wheel is off the ground, then grip the tire at the top and bottom and try to rock it in and out. Play felt during this movement often points to a bad lower ball joint.

Listen for noises while driving. Have a helper walk beside the truck (in a safe, empty lot) as you slowly drive over a speed bump. A pronounced clunk or squeak can help isolate which corner is problematic. Finally, check the alignment. While a professional alignment check is best, you can look for clear signs like the steering wheel being off-center when driving straight or the aforementioned uneven tire wear, which suggests the control arm's ability to hold proper geometry is compromised.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a control arm is a substantial DIY job that requires mechanical confidence. Here is a step-by-step guide based on owner experiences and common practice.

1. Safety First & Vehicle Prep: Park on a level, solid surface. Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you'll be working on before lifting the vehicle. Safely lift the front of the truck and support it with high-quality jack stands placed on the frame rails. Never rely solely on a jack. Remove the wheel. As one owner shared during their repair journey: "Looking to replace lower control arm and ball joint on my 2001 Silverado 4x4." (source)

2. Disconnect Components: You need to free the control arm from the steering knuckle and the frame. Start by removing the cotter pin and castle nut from the ball joint stud. Use a ball joint separator tool (a "pickle fork" or a clamp-style separator) to pop the stud out of the steering knuckle. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot. Next, locate the two bolts that secure the control arm to the frame. You may need to support the steering knuckle with a jack or a piece of wood to keep it from hanging by the brake hose.

3. Remove the Old Control Arm: Unbolt the control arm from the frame. This can be tricky as bolts may be rusted or seized. Penetrating oil and patience are your friends. Sometimes the bolt will spin because the welded nut inside the frame rail breaks free. If this happens, you may need to cut an access hole or use creative wrenching. Once all bolts are removed, the control arm can be maneuvered out.

4. Install the New Control Arm: Position the new control arm into place. This is often easier said than done, as you must align multiple bolt holes while supporting the weight of the arm. Start the frame bolts by hand to ensure you don't cross-thread them. Tighten them snugly, but do not fully torque them yet.

5. Reconnect the Ball Joint: Lift the steering knuckle into position so the ball joint stud slides into its taper. Thread on the new castle nut and tighten it to the manufacturer's specification. You must then tighten it further just enough to align the hole in the stud with a slot in the nut so you can insert a new cotter pin. Never back the nut off to align the holes; always tighten forward.

6. Reassembly & Final Torque: Reinstall the wheel. Lower the vehicle so its full weight is on the suspension. This is a critical step. With the truck on the ground, now go back and torque all control arm frame bolts to the final factory specification. This ensures the rubber bushings are in their neutral, loaded position and won't fail prematurely.

7. Alignment: A front-end alignment is absolutely mandatory after replacing a control arm. The geometry of the front suspension has been altered. Drive directly to an alignment shop to have the camber, caster, and toe adjusted. Skipping this will result in poor handling and destroyed tires.

Parts and Tools Needed

Parts:

• Control Arm Assembly: It is highly recommended to purchase a complete control arm with the ball joint and bushings already pressed in. This saves significant time and hassle. For the 2010 Silverado 1500, ensure you get the correct part for 2WD or 4WD. Popular aftermarket brands include Moog, AC Delco (GM OEM), and Mevotech. As an owner noted, "I was originally going to go with these AC delco, until I realized the ball joint is not greasable." (source) – consider if you prefer a greasable (serviceable) or non-greasable (sealed) joint.
• New Castle Nut & Cotter Pin: These are often included with a new control arm but always verify.
• Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil): Essential for rusty bolts.

Tools:

• Floor Jack and Jack Stands (at least two)
• Lug Wrench/Socket Set
• Basic Socket Set (Metric, typically 13mm-22mm)
• Breaker Bar or Long Cheater Pipe
• Torque Wrench (capable of ~100-200 ft-lbs)
• Ball Joint Separator Tool (Pickle Fork or Clamp-Style)
• Hammer
• Pry Bar
• Safety Glasses

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix control arms varies dramatically between DIY and professional repair, and depends on whether you choose OEM or aftermarket parts.

DIY Cost Example: A DIYer replacing both upper control arms themselves can expect the following cost breakdown:

• Parts: Pair of quality aftermarket upper control arms (e.g., Moog): $200 - $400
• Alignment: Professional alignment after install: $100 - $150
• Total DIY Cost: ~$300 - $550 This route requires your own tools and a full day of labor, but offers substantial savings.

Professional Repair Cost Example: Taking the job to an independent shop or dealership involves part markup and labor charges.

• Parts (Marked Up): $300 - $600
• Labor: 3-4 hours of labor at $100-$150/hr: $300 - $600
• Alignment: Usually included in the labor.
• Total Shop Cost: $600 - $1,200+ The wide range depends on shop rates, part quality (OEM vs. aftermarket), and your location. Owners who upgrade to premium arms, like the Cognito units mentioned in forums, will pay at the higher end of the spectrum. "Cognito Upper control arms I’ve been slowly upgrading the suspension on my truck." (source)

Prevention

Preventing premature control arm failure revolves around diligent maintenance and mindful driving. Regularly inspect the suspension bushings and ball joint boots for cracking, tearing, or dryness. When washing your truck, occasionally clean the suspension components to remove corrosive road salt and grime.

If your new ball joints are equipped with grease fittings (zerks), incorporate them into your maintenance routine. Use a grease gun to pump fresh chassis grease into each joint every other oil change or as specified by the part manufacturer. This flushes out contaminants and maintains lubrication. Avoid harsh impacts like hitting potholes or curbs at speed, as these events can instantly damage bushings and jar ball joints. Finally, address other worn suspension components like shocks and struts promptly, as their failure puts additional stress on the control arm bushings and joints.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from CHEVROLET owners:

Success Stories

"Would typically have battery disconnected during this time so not sure if that is just what fixed it before but the message was gone and I was able to start the truck as normal." — BMRR12 (source)

Owner Experiences

"I’ve been slowly upgrading the suspension on my truck. I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 4X4 on a 6” RC Lift." — KhateraM (source)

"Cognito Upper control arms I’ve been slowly upgrading the suspension on my truck." — KhateraM (source)

"We are slowly replacing stuff that needs to be done, and upper control arms with struts are the next thing to do. She wants the truck leveled so I am planning on going with 5100’s." — bw2550 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "Drove the truck around quite a bit and letting it sit for a couple of hours before I try to start it again. Still have TCCM unplugged but will reconnect if I am able to successfully start the truck in 2 hours." — BMRR12 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a control arm? A: For a first-time DIYer, plan on spending 3 to 5 hours per side for a single control arm replacement, not including the trip for an alignment. This accounts for time spent dealing with rusty bolts and learning the process. An experienced mechanic with a well-equipped shop can typically do one side in 1-2 hours.

Q: Can I drive with a bad control arm or ball joint? A: It is strongly discouraged and can be dangerous. A severely worn ball joint can separate, causing the wheel to collapse inward and resulting in a complete loss of control. If you hear persistent clunking or notice new steering looseness, have the vehicle inspected immediately and avoid highway speeds.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2010 Silverado? A: Yes, control arm and ball joint wear is a very common high-mileage maintenance item on this generation of Silverado, as with most trucks. Given the vehicle's age, many are now experiencing the effects of 10+ years of wear on these rubber and mechanical components. Owners frequently discuss replacements and upgrades in online forums.

Q: DIY vs mechanic – what's recommended for this job? A: This is a high-difficulty DIY job. It is recommended for experienced home mechanics who have proper tools (especially a torque wrench and ball joint tools) and are comfortable applying significant force to rusty components. If you are unsure about supporting the vehicle safely, dealing with seized bolts, or setting proper torque, hiring a professional is the wiser and safer choice. The cost savings are significant for DIY, but the risk of error is also high.

Q: Should I replace just the ball joint or the entire control arm? A: For most owners, replacing the entire control arm assembly is the better choice. It comes with a new ball joint and new bushings already installed, saving you the cost and hassle of renting a ball joint press and bushing removal tools. It also ensures all wear items in that assembly are new. This is the approach most commonly taken by owners in discussions.

Q: Do I need to replace both sides at the same time? A: It is highly recommended. If one side has worn out due to age and mileage, the other side is likely not far behind. Replacing both ensures balanced handling and saves you from repeating the labor-intensive job again in the near future. It also allows the alignment to be set correctly for both new components.