2020 Dodge Challenger: Fixing Wheel Rubbing and Fitment Issues

Summary

The most common "wheels problem" reported by owners, based on analysis of 12 discussions, is not a mechanical failure of the wheel itself but a fitment issue where the front wheels rub against or contact the vehicle's side skirts or fender liners. The primary solution is to adjust the alignment, specifically by adding negative camber to the front wheels, which pulls the top of the tire inward and away from the bodywork. In more severe cases, rolling or trimming the fender or replacing damaged side skirts may be necessary.

Step-by-Step Solutions

Solutions are ranked from the most common and least invasive to more involved repairs.

1. Adjust Front Camber Alignment

This was the most frequently successful fix mentioned across multiple discussions. Adding negative camber (e.g., -1.5 to -2.0 degrees) moves the top of the tire inward, creating clearance from the side skirt or fender liner on the outer edge.

• Procedure: Take the vehicle to a professional alignment shop, preferably one experienced with performance or modified vehicles. Specify you need to maximize negative camber within the factory adjustment range to resolve rubbing. Do not exceed factory specs without supporting modifications.
• Success Rate: High for mild rubbing caused by aggressive wheel offsets or mild lowering.

2. Inspect and Secure/Replace Fender Liners & Side Skirts

Rubbing often occurs on plastic components. Inspection and simple re-securing can sometimes solve the issue.

• Procedure: Jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel. Inspect the inner fender liner and the rear edge of the front side skirt for rub marks, tears, or broken clips. Re-secure any loose panels with new plastic rivets or clips (part numbers vary by model). If the side skirt is cracked or deformed, replacement is needed.
• Note: Several owners specifically cited damaged side skirts as the point of contact.

3. Roll or Trim the Fender

If alignment adjustment provides insufficient clearance, modifying the metal fender lip is the next step.

• Procedure: Using a specialized fender roller, gently heat the paint and slowly bend the inner lip of the fender upward. This is a delicate process to avoid cracking paint. For plastic liners, strategic trimming with a utility knife may be required.
• Recommendation: Consider professional help for fender rolling to prevent costly paint damage.

4. Verify Wheel/Tire Specifications

Ensure the installed wheel and tire combo is not excessively oversized for the vehicle.

• Procedure: Check the wheel's width, offset (ET), and tire size against factory specifications or known compatible aftermarket setups for your vehicle. A wheel with too low an offset (e.g., ET35 instead of ET45) will sit farther out and likely cause contact.

How to Diagnose

A precise diagnosis is required to target the correct fix.

1. Locate the Contact Point: Clean the inner fender liner, side skirt, and tire sidewall. Drive the vehicle normally, over bumps, and through full steering lock turns. Re-inspect for fresh scuff marks, scratches, or plastic shavings.
2. Identify the Component: Determine if the tire is rubbing on:
   • The plastic fender liner (most common on full lock).
   • The side skirt at the rear of the front wheel arch (common on lowered cars).
   • The actual metal fender lip (indicates a severe fitment issue).
3. Check for Play: With the vehicle jacked up and wheel removed, check for loose or dangling fender liners or side skirts. Manually try to wobble them.
4. Measure Your Setup: Record your exact wheel width, offset, and tire size (e.g., 19x8.5 ET35, 235/35R19). Compare this to common forum recommendations for your specific vehicle model.

What Causes It

Based on owner reports, the root causes are almost always modifications or component failure, not spontaneous failure of the wheel.

• Aftermarket Wheel Fitment (Primary Cause): Installing wheels with an aggressive offset (too low of a number) or increased width pushes the wheel and tire assembly outward, reducing clearance.
• Lowering the Vehicle: Installing lowering springs or coilovers reduces the gap between the fender and tire, making contact more likely during suspension compression.
• Worn or Damaged Body Components: Broken clips or cracks in the plastic fender liners or side skirts can allow these panels to flex inward into the wheel's path.
• Incorrect Tire Size: Installing a tire with a taller sidewall (higher aspect ratio) or wider section width than designed for the wheel/vehicle.

What You'll Notice

Owners describe the problem through distinct sounds and visual cues, not handling issues.

• Audible Signs: A repetitive rubbing, scraping, or grinding sound from the front wheel wells, especially when turning, going over bumps, or with passengers in the car. It is often described as a "plastic-on-rubber" sound.
• Visual Signs: Visible scuff marks on the inner shoulder of the tire's sidewall. Scratches, gouges, or melted plastic on the inner fender liner or the edge of the front side skirt.
• Physical Signs: Finding plastic shavings on the ground near the front wheels or stuck in the tire tread. A loose or dangling fender liner that is visibly out of position.

Price Breakdown

Costs vary dramatically based on the required solution.

• DIY Alignment Check/Adjustment: $0 - $150. You can check for loose components for free. A professional alignment to adjust camber typically costs $100 - $150.
• Fender Liner/Side Skirt Clip Kit: $20 - $50. A bag of assorted OEM plastic rivets and clips is inexpensive.
• Replacement Side Skirt (Primed, unpainted): $150 - $400 per side (part only). Painting and installation will add significant cost.
• Professional Fender Rolling: $75 - $150 per fender. The preferred method to avoid paint damage.
• Wheel or Tire Replacement: $200 - $500+ per wheel/tire. The most expensive solution, only necessary if the current setup is drastically incorrect.

DIY vs. Shop: Securing loose liners and installing clip kits is firmly in the DIY realm. Alignment and fender rolling are best left to professionals with the right tools. Side skirt replacement may require painting, which necessitates a professional body shop.

Your Questions Answered

Q: My wheels are stock and the car isn't lowered, but it's still rubbing. Why? A: This points directly to a failed body component. In several discussions, owners with stock setups found that the front fender liners or side skirts had become detached due to broken clips or were damaged from a prior impact, allowing them to contact the tire.

Q: Will adding camber ruin my tire wear? A: Slight negative camber (within -1.5 to -2.0 degrees) will have a minimal effect on tire wear for street driving, especially if toe settings are kept properly at zero. Excessive camber will cause accelerated inner shoulder wear.

Q: Is it safe to drive with a rubbing sound? A: For mild, occasional rubbing on plastic, it is generally a nuisance, not an immediate safety hazard. However, continuous severe rubbing can shred a fender liner, damage a tire sidewall, or, if contacting metal, cause a blowout. It should be diagnosed and corrected promptly.

Q: Can I just cut away the part that's rubbing? A: Strategic trimming of a plastic fender liner is a common and acceptable DIY fix. Never cut the structural metal of the fender or body without proper knowledge, as it can compromise corrosion protection and structural integrity.

Q: The rubbing only happens with passengers. What does that mean? A: This confirms the issue is clearance-related under suspension compression. Adding weight compresses the springs, bringing the fender closer to the tire. This reinforces that alignment adjustment (camber) or fender rolling is the likely solution.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 12 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.