Is Your 2020 Dodge Charger Wheel Bearing Failing? Here's How to Tell (and Fix)

Summary

A failing wheel bearing is a critical safety issue that manifests as a persistent growling or humming noise correlated with vehicle speed. Based on analysis of 210 owner discussions, the definitive and only effective repair is replacement of the entire wheel hub bearing assembly. While some noise sources can be confused with a bad bearing, there is no permanent fix short of installing a new, quality hub unit. The repair is straightforward but requires specific tools and attention to detail.

What Actually Works

Solutions are listed in order of effectiveness and frequency of successful owner reports.

1. Complete Hub Bearing Assembly Replacement: This is the universal fix with a near 100% success rate when the diagnosis is correct. The modern unit bearing hub is a sealed, non-serviceable component. Successful repairs consistently involve:

   • Using a quality OEM or reputable aftermarket part (e.g., Timken, SKF, MOOG). Cheap, no-name bearings are frequently cited as failing prematurely.
   • Proper installation torque for the axle nut (often 180-200 ft-lbs for many vehicles, but always verify spec). An under-torqued axle nut is a leading cause of premature failure.
   • Cleaning the mating surfaces on the knuckle and ensuring the hub sits flush.

2. Diagnostic Confirmation Before Replacement: Many owners report noises that mimic a bad bearing. The most frequently successful diagnostic step is the "load test." Jack up the vehicle, support it on jack stands, and spin the wheel by hand while feeling the spring or strut for roughness. More definitively, while driving, swerving left and right transfers vehicle load; a noise that increases when loading the suspect bearing (e.g., noise gets louder on a right turn if the left bearing is bad) confirms the diagnosis.

There are no alternative repairs (e.g., "repacking" a sealed unit) that provide a reliable, long-term solution. Attempting to do so is not recommended and was not reported as successful.

Troubleshooting

Proper diagnosis is key to avoiding unnecessary part replacement. Follow this sequence:

1. Identify Noise Characteristics: A bad bearing typically produces a continuous droning, growling, or rumbling sound that increases with vehicle speed. It may start subtly and become louder over weeks or months.

2. Perform the Load Test: As described above, this is the most reliable homeowner test. Swerving changes the axial load on the bearings, making the noise come and go.

3. Check for Play: With the vehicle safely jacked up and the tire on, grip the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Try to rock it in-and-out. Any discernible play indicates significant bearing wear. (Note: Some FWD units may show no play even when noisy).

4. Rule Out Tire Noise: Swap front tires side-to-side. If the noise changes location or pitch, the issue is likely tire cupping or irregular wear. Tire noise is a very common misdiagnosis.

5. Rule Out Brake Drag/Warp: A warped brake rotor can cause a rhythmic scraping or vibration under braking, which can sometimes be confused for bearing noise. Inspect rotors for scoring and uneven wear.

6. Isolate the Corner: Have a helper drive the car slowly next to a wall (like in an empty parking garage). The sound will reflect and often be louder on the side of the faulty bearing.

Why This Happens

Based on owner reports and mechanical consensus, failures stem from:

• Normal Wear and Tear: The primary cause. Bearings have a finite lifespan under constant load, heat, and stress. High-mileage failures are expected.
• Impact Damage: Hitting potholes, curbs, or road debris can brinell the bearing races, creating imperceptible damage that leads to premature failure.
• Contamination: Despite being sealed, extreme conditions or damaged seals can allow water and road grit to enter, degrading the grease and wearing the bearing surfaces.
• Improper Installation: This is a major theme in discussions. Reusing an old axle nut, failing to torque the new axle nut to specification, or damaging the bearing during press-fit installation (on older designs) will cause rapid failure.
• Aggressive Wheels/Tires: Multiple discussions mentioned issues after installing heavier aftermarket wheels (like black 5-spoke Hellcat replicas). Unsprung mass increases bearing load.

What You'll Notice

Owners describe a consistent progression of symptoms:

• Stage 1: A faint humming or whirring noise that is only audible at highway speeds (e.g., 45-60 mph) with the radio off. It's often dismissed as tire noise.
• Stage 2: The noise becomes a distinct, constant growl or drone that is clearly speed-dependent. You may feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel (front bearing) or floor/seat (rear bearing).
• Stage 3: The growl intensifies and may develop a grinding or grating quality. Play in the wheel may become detectable. In some cases, the ABS tone ring can be damaged, triggering an ABS/Stability Control warning light.
• Critical Stage: Complete seizure is rare but possible, which can lock the wheel or cause the hub to separate.

Pricing Guide

Costs vary significantly by vehicle (2WD vs. AWD, front vs. rear) and part quality.

• Parts (Per Corner):

  • Economy Aftermarket Hub: $50 - $100
  • Premium Aftermarket (Timken, SKF, MOOG): $100 - $250
  • Genuine OEM Dealer Part: $250 - $500+

• Labor (Shop Rate):

  • Independent Shop: 1.5 - 2.0 hours labor. Typical total cost: $300 - $600 per corner.
  • Dealership: Typically 20-30% higher, totaling $400 - $750+ per corner.

• DIY Cost: The cost of the premium hub ($100-$250) plus any specialty tools. Required tools often include: a high-torque breaker bar and torque wrench (for the axle nut), a large socket (typically 32mm or 36mm), a hub removal tool or slide hammer (for stubborn hubs), and basic socket sets. Renting tools from an auto parts store is a common and cost-effective approach for DIYers.

Need to Know

• Can I Drive On It? A mildly noisy bearing may last for thousands of miles, but it is unsafe to ignore. The risk of catastrophic failure increases over time. It is recommended to address it promptly.
• Should I Replace in Pairs? While not always mechanically necessary, it is often recommended, especially on the same axle. If one bearing has worn due to age/mileage, its counterpart is likely not far behind.
• The Axle Nut is Critical. It is a one-time-use stretch nut on most vehicles. You must replace it with a new one and torque it to the exact specification. This is the most frequently emphasized step in DIY forums.
• ABS Light Connection: The wheel speed sensor is integrated into or adjacent to the hub. A severely failing bearing can damage the sensor or its tone ring, illuminating the ABS and traction control lights.
• Diagnosis is Key: Don't just throw parts at a noise. Use the troubleshooting steps to confirm. Many "bearing noises" turn out to be tires.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 210 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.