Why Your 2020 F-150 Caliper Is Sticking (And How to Fix It)

Bottom Line

If you're dealing with a caliper problem, the most common and effective solution is to replace the seized or malfunctioning caliper. Based on analysis of 17 owner discussions, this direct replacement is the definitive fix for persistent issues like dragging brakes, uneven wear, and pulling to one side. While there are cheaper, temporary fixes you can try first, a new or quality rebuilt caliper is often the only way to fully resolve the problem.

Red Flags

Owners reported several clear warning signs that pointed to a failing caliper. The most frequent complaint was the vehicle pulling sharply to one side when braking. You might also notice a burning smell coming from a wheel, which indicates the brake pad is constantly rubbing against the rotor due to a caliper that won't release. Visually, you might see uneven brake pad wear (one side worn down much faster than the other) or excessive brake dust on just one wheel. Some owners also reported a loss of power and fuel economy, as a dragging brake acts like you're constantly driving with the parking brake on.

Quick Repair Guide

The quickest path to a reliable repair is to replace the faulty caliper. For most DIYers, this involves:

1. Safety First: Secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the affected wheel.
2. Remove the Old Caliper: Unbolt the caliper from its mounting bracket and carefully disconnect the brake hose (have a catch pan ready for fluid).
3. Install the New Caliper: Attach the new or rebuilt caliper, reconnect the brake hose, and install new brake pads if needed.
4. Bleed the Brakes: This critical step removes air from the brake line. Always start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder (usually the rear passenger side) and work your way to the problem wheel last.
5. Bed-in the Pads: Follow a proper bedding-in procedure for the new pads and rotor to ensure optimal performance.

Step-by-Step Solutions

Here are the solutions ranked from the most temporary/cheapest to the most permanent fix, based on frequency and success in owner reports.

1. Lubricate the Caliper Slide Pins (Temporary Fix)

In several discussions, owners found that their issue was not a seized caliper piston, but seized slide pins. These pins allow the caliper to float and apply pressure evenly. If they're dry or corroded, the caliper can stick.

• Process: Remove the caliper from its bracket (usually two bolts), pull out the rubber-booted slide pins, clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner, and lubricate them with a high-temperature silicone-based brake grease. Never use regular grease.
• Success Rate: This worked as a complete fix in some cases where the problem was caught early. It's always the best and cheapest first step.

2. Rebuild the Caliper (Intermediate DIY)

A few experienced DIYers opted to rebuild the caliper instead of replacing it. This involves a rebuild kit with new seals, dust boots, and sometimes a piston.

• Process: You completely disassemble the caliper, clean all parts in brake cleaner, replace the internal seals, and reassemble. This requires careful work to avoid contaminating the new seals.
• Note: Owners emphasized this is more labor-intensive and requires a specific tool (a clamp or air pressure) to retract the piston. If the caliper body or piston is corroded, rebuilding may not be possible.

3. Replace the Caliper (Most Common & Permanent Fix)

This was the overwhelmingly recommended solution across the forums. When a caliper piston seizes or the internal bore becomes corroded, replacement is the only reliable option.

• Process: As outlined in the Quick Repair Guide. Most owners purchased a loaded caliper (which comes with new pads and hardware) or a rebuilt caliper to simplify the job.
• Why it Works: It addresses the root cause—internal corrosion or seal failure—and comes with a warranty. Multiple owners confirmed this immediately solved pulling, dragging, and overheating issues.

Price Breakdown

Costs can vary widely based on your vehicle and whether you do it yourself.

• DIY (Do-It-Yourself):

  • Parts: A single rebuilt caliper typically costs $50 - $150. A "loaded" rebuilt caliper (with pads) might be $80 - $200. High-quality slide pin grease is under $10. A brake bleeder kit is $20 - $50.
  • Total DIY Range: For one wheel, expect to spend $80 - $250 for parts and tools if you need them.

• Professional Shop:

  • Parts & Labor: Shops will usually replace calipers in pairs (both front or both rear) for safety and balance. Replacing two calipers at a shop typically costs $300 - $800+, depending on the vehicle. Replacing just one caliper might be $200 - $500.
  • Labor is the key cost driver, as the job includes parts markup, brake bleeding, and disposal fees.

Recommendation: If you're mechanically comfortable, DIY replacement of a single caliper offers significant savings. The slide pin lubrication check is a nearly free first step.

Prevention Guide

Preventing caliper issues is mostly about fighting corrosion and paying attention.

• Annual Service: Once a year, or during a brake pad change, remove, clean, and re-grease the caliper slide pins with silicone brake grease. This is the single best preventative measure mentioned.
• Brake Fluid Flush: Follow your manufacturer's schedule for brake fluid flushes (usually every 2-3 years). Old, moisture-contaminated fluid boils more easily and causes internal corrosion in the caliper.
• Listen and Feel: Pay attention to the red flags listed earlier. A slight pull or unusual wear pattern is much cheaper to address early.
• Wash Your Undercarriage: If you live in a snowy area with road salt, regularly rinsing the wheels and brake components can help reduce corrosive buildup.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 17 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.