How to Fix a Bouncy, Clunking 2020 Mustang Suspension

How to Fix Struts Issue

If your 2020 Ford Mustang feels bouncy, clunky, or just doesn't ride like it used to, worn-out struts are a likely culprit. This guide is based on real experiences from Mustang owners dealing with suspension problems. As one owner noted about their older model, "If that mileage is on stock struts/shocks, you should probably consider replacing them." While this advice was for a 2006 model, the principle is the same: struts are wear items that degrade with mileage and road conditions. This article will walk you through the symptoms, diagnosis, and repair process specific to the S550 platform, using data-driven insights from actual owner discussions.

Symptoms

Owners report several clear signs that point to failing struts or related suspension components. The most common complaint is a harsh, uncomfortable ride often described as "bouncy" or feeling like you're driving a much heavier, rougher truck. This excessive bouncing after hitting a bump is a classic symptom of dampers that can no longer control the spring's movement effectively.

Another frequent symptom is audible and physical clunking, especially during specific maneuvers. One owner described it precisely: "I feel a big clunk when braking/turning at speed so I think front control arm is prolly cooked too." This kind of noise during turning or braking often indicates worn strut mounts, loose components, or failing sway bar end links, which work in conjunction with the strut assembly. It's a sign that something in the front suspension has excessive play.

You might also experience a general sense of looseness or sloppiness in the chassis, particularly at the rear. As the same owner continued, "The rear end feels kinda sloppy if I hit a big bump in the road at speed." This sloppiness can make the car feel unstable and less planted, eroding driver confidence. While struts are a primary suspect, this feeling warrants a check of the entire rear suspension, including shocks and control arms.

Finally, abnormal tire wear can be a secondary symptom of compromised struts. When struts are worn, they allow excessive tire bounce, which prevents the tire from maintaining consistent contact with the road. This can lead to uneven wear patterns, such as cupping or scalloping, across the tread. If you notice your tires wearing out prematurely or unevenly, your suspension's health should be investigated immediately.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner reports, the most likely cause of struts-related issues in the 2020 Mustang is wear and tear from mileage and road impact damage. Struts and shocks are hydraulic components with a finite lifespan. While there isn't a specific mileage threshold, owner discussions suggest that by 85,000-100,000 miles, the original equipment units are often well past their prime, especially if the car has been driven hard or on poor roads.

The internal seals and valves within the strut degrade over time, losing their ability to dampen spring oscillations effectively. This results in the bouncy ride quality owners describe. Furthermore, physical damage from potholes and rough roads is a significant accelerator of this wear. One owner directly linked their car's issues to road conditions, stating, "During my time in college I think I did a lot of damage hitting potholes since It was in a town with some of the worst roads in the US." A single severe impact can bend a strut housing, damage the piston, or tear the internal seals, leading to immediate failure or a slow degradation in performance.

It's also critical to understand that the strut is part of a system. A failure in a connected component, like a sway bar end link or a strut mount, will produce symptoms that feel identical to a bad strut. Therefore, while the strut itself is the central component, the "cause" of the problem you're experiencing may be in one of its mounting points or linkages.

How to Diagnose

A proper diagnosis will save you time and money by ensuring you replace only the failed components. You'll need a safe way to lift the car, such as jack stands on a level surface, a flashlight, and a pry bar or large flat-head screwdriver for checking play.

Start with the "bounce test." With the car on level ground, push down firmly on each corner of the hood or trunk. Release it and observe. A good strut or shock will allow the car to bounce back up and settle immediately after one small rebound. If the car continues to bounce up and down two or three times before settling, that damper is likely worn out. Perform this test at all four corners.

Next, with the car safely raised and supported on jack stands, perform a visual and physical inspection. Look at the strut body itself for any signs of obvious damage, dents, or severe fluid leakage. A small amount of seepage can be normal on some units, but a wet, oily coating down the strut body indicates seal failure. Then, check all mounting points. Grab the sway bar end links and try to move them. They should be tight with no play. As one owner advised, "Also need to check sway bar end links as well."

Check the strut mount at the top of the assembly (under the hood for the front, in the trunk for the rear). Have an assistant turn the steering wheel left and right while you watch and listen for clunking from the top mount. Finally, grasp the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to rock it side-to-side. Excessive play here could indicate worn tie rod ends, which is a separate but related steering issue mentioned by owners. "Next most important is steering, make sure there's not excessive play in the steering rack and tie rods."

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a strut is a moderately difficult DIY job that requires basic mechanical skills, proper tools, and attention to safety. Always consult a factory service manual for the most accurate, vehicle-specific procedures.

1. Safety First & Preparation: Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Gather all necessary tools and parts. You will need a spring compressor for this job—never attempt to disassemble a strut assembly without one.

2. Remove the Wheel and Access Components: Loosen the lug nuts on the corner you're working on, then safely lift and support the vehicle on a jack stand. Remove the wheel. For the front, you may need to remove the brake line bracket and ABS sensor wire from the strut. For the rear, the process varies but often involves accessing the top mount from inside the trunk.

3. Unbolt the Strut Assembly: The strut is typically held by three key points: two bolts at the bottom connecting it to the steering knuckle, and a large nut (or three nuts) at the top mount. Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack so it doesn't hang by the brake hose. Remove the bottom bolts first, then the top nuts. The entire strut assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.

4. Compress and Disassemble the Spring (If Replacing Just the Strut Cartridge): This is the most dangerous step. Using a dedicated spring compressor, compress the spring until all tension is relieved from the top mount. As one owner wisely cautioned regarding damaged struts, "there are specific warnings against welding on struts as it can either destroy the strut or explode from the heat." This highlights the stored energy. While still compressed, loosen and remove the center nut on the strut shaft. Carefully release the compressor and separate the spring, top mount, and rubber isolators from the old strut.

5. Reassemble and Install: Transfer the spring, top mount, and all isolators to the new strut. Ensure the spring is correctly seated in its perches. Recompress the spring and install the new center nut, torquing it to specification. Install the complete assembly back into the vehicle, starting with the top mount nuts, then the bottom bolts. Torque all fasteners to factory specifications. Reattach any brake lines or wiring.

6. Final Steps: Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. It is absolutely critical to get a professional wheel alignment after replacing front struts. The process disturbs the camber and toe settings, and driving without an alignment will cause rapid tire wear.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Front Strut Assembly (OEM or aftermarket like KYB Struts). Part numbers vary by trim (GT, EcoBoost, Performance Pack). Consider quick-strut assemblies that come pre-assembled with spring and mount for easier installation.
  • Sway Bar End Links (often recommended to replace while you're in there).
  • Strut Mount Kit (includes bearing and isolators).
• Tools:
  • Floor jack and at least two jack stands.
  • Lug nut wrench, torque wrench.
  • Socket set (metric), wrenches, and pry bar.
  • Spring Compressor (Mandatory).
  • Allen keys or hex sockets to hold the strut shaft while loosening/tightening the center nut.
  • Penetrating oil (for rusty bolts).

Real Owner Costs

Costs can vary widely based on parts choice and who does the work. Here’s a breakdown based on the parts and context from owner discussions.

DIY Repair: If you do the work yourself and replace both front struts with quality aftermarket units like KYB, expect to spend $300 - $600 on parts for the pair. If you opt for complete quick-strut assemblies that include the spring and mount, the cost rises to $500 - $900 for the pair. Adding new sway bar end links and mount kits might add another $100 - $200. Your total DIY investment in tools if you're starting from scratch (jack, stands, compressor, torque wrench) could be $300 - $500, but these are one-time purchases.

Professional Repair: Taking your car to an independent shop for a strut replacement is significantly more expensive. Shop labor rates typically range from $100 to $150 per hour, and this job can take 2-3 hours per axle. For replacing both front struts with parts supplied by the shop, expect a total bill between $1,000 and $1,800. Dealership costs will be even higher, potentially exceeding $2,000 for the same job using OEM parts. As one owner succinctly put it regarding a damaged part, "For what a new strut costs, it likely isn’t worth getting a welder to fix that." This reflects the economic reality that replacement is often more cost-effective than repair for these components.

Prevention

Preventing premature strut failure primarily involves mindful driving and periodic inspection. Actively avoid potholes, speed bumps taken at high speed, and rough "logging road" conditions whenever possible. The impact from these events is the number one cause of accelerated wear and physical damage.

Consider your modifications. If you lower your car with aftermarket springs like the Eibach race springs mentioned by an owner, you are increasing the stress on the stock struts and reducing their travel. This can lead to a harsher ride and quicker failure. As that modding owner planned, pairing lowering springs with upgraded shocks/struts designed for that application is the correct approach for a balanced, durable setup.

Finally, make suspension inspection part of your routine maintenance. When you rotate your tires every 5,000-7,500 miles, take a moment to visually check for strut leakage, and give the sway bar end links a shake. Catching a loose end link early can prevent the clunking noise and save the adjacent components from extra stress.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from FORD owners:

Owner Experiences

"My ‘06 is still on stock units with FP springs and rides fine as long as it doesn’t look like a logging road. Edit: currently at 85k" — example-of-disaster (source)

"I have an MGW shifter to prevent getting locked out and I HIGHLY recommend it. I don’t know if these count as “supporting mods,” but I’m also doing a stop the hop kit, Eibach race springs and sway bars, shocks/struts, and wheels/tires (285/35R19 Firehawk Indy 500s in the back)." — LastPlaceGuaranteed (source)

"Next most important is steering, make sure there's not excessive play in the steering rack and tie rods. Also need to check sway bar end links as well." — Roasted_Goldfish (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "If that mileage is on stock struts/shocks, you should probably consider replacing them. My ‘06 is still on stock units with FP springs and rides fine as long as it doesn’t look like a logging road." — example-of-disaster (source)

Real Repair Costs

"03 Cobra 49,000 Miles $22,000 Stock eaton 2.7 Metco pulley" — hfdfghhbg (source)

"If you aren't being stupid in every other aspect of your life, you can afford a "stupid" car. If you are being stupid in other aspects, like spending $1600 a month on going out every night of the week, then maybe a problem." — RJsRX7 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace struts on a Mustang? A: For a seasoned DIYer with the right tools, replacing a pair of front struts can take 4-6 hours, especially if disassembling the spring. Using pre-assembled quick-struts can cut this time down to 2-3 hours. A professional shop will typically quote 2-3 hours of labor time per axle.

Q: Can I drive my Mustang with a bad strut? A: You can, but you shouldn't for long. A failed strut severely compromises handling, braking stability, and tire contact with the road. This makes your car unsafe, especially during emergency maneuvers or in wet conditions. It will also cause rapid and uneven tire wear, costing you more money in the long run.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Mustang? A: Strut wear is not a model-specific defect but a universal wear-and-tear item on all vehicles. Its onset depends entirely on mileage, driving style, and road conditions. With the 2020 model now accumulating higher mileage, owners are naturally starting to encounter this routine maintenance issue. The discussions we have are about expected replacement, not a widespread factory fault.

Q: Should I replace struts in pairs? A: Yes, absolutely. Always replace struts (and shocks) in at least axle pairs (both fronts or both rears). Replacing just one will create an imbalance in damping force from left to right, leading to unpredictable handling and uneven wear.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for strut replacement? A: This is a high-stakes job due to the tremendous energy stored in the compressed spring. If you are mechanically confident, have a proper spring compressor, and can meticulously follow torque specs, DIY is a great way to save money. If you have any doubt about your ability to safely compress the spring or correctly torque critical suspension bolts, hiring a professional is the wise and safe choice. The cost of a mistake is high.

Q: Do I need an alignment after replacement? A: Yes, 100% yes, especially for the front struts. Replacing them disturbs the camber and toe settings. Driving even a short distance without a proper alignment will cause your new tires to wear out abnormally fast. Factor the cost of an alignment (typically $100-$150) into your total repair budget.