2020 Honda Accord: Control Arm Wear & Intake Leak DIY Fix

What You Need to Know

Control arm issues, often stemming from worn bushings or ball joints, are a common suspension problem that can significantly impact your vehicle's handling and safety. Based on analysis of 105 owner discussions, the most frequently reported and successful solution is the replacement of the entire control arm assembly, which includes new bushings and a ball joint. While some owners attempt to press in new bushings separately, this is often more labor-intensive and less reliable than a complete assembly swap. It's critical to address these symptoms promptly, as a failed control arm or ball joint can lead to a sudden loss of vehicle control. For vehicles where specific OBD codes like P0060, P1659, or P0600 are present alongside suspension symptoms, a more complex electrical or module issue may be interacting with the stability control system, requiring additional diagnosis.

Telltale Signs

Owners report a distinct set of symptoms that signal control arm or bushing failure. The most common complaint is a loud, pronounced clunking or knocking sound from the front suspension, particularly when driving over bumps, potholes, or during low-speed turns. This is often accompanied by vague or loose steering feel, where the vehicle may wander or feel less responsive on the highway. Many drivers notice uneven or premature tire wear, especially cupping or scalloping on the inner edges of the front tires. During braking or acceleration, you might feel a shimmy or vibration through the steering wheel or chassis. In severe cases, the vehicle may pull to one side. It's important to note that in several discussions, these mechanical symptoms were correlated with electronic stability control or warning lights, potentially linked to the OBD codes mentioned, suggesting the failing suspension component is affecting wheel speed or position sensors.

Fast Fix

The fastest and most definitive fix, cited in the majority of successful repair threads, is replacing the entire control arm (also referred to as a wishbone strut in some forums) as a complete pre-assembled unit. This approach solves the problem at its root by simultaneously replacing the worn bushings and the integrated ball joint. Aftermarket or OEM-replacement assembled control arms are widely available for most vehicles and can be installed as a single piece. The primary advantage is that it eliminates the need for a hydraulic press and specialized tools to remove and install individual bushings, which is the most time-consuming and technically challenging part of the job. Swapping the assembly is a more straightforward bolt-on/bolt-off procedure, making it the preferred method for both professional shops and advanced DIYers looking for a permanent solution.

Step-by-Step Solutions

Here are the solutions ranked by their frequency of success and practicality, as derived from community experiences.

1. Complete Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Most Common & Recommended)

This is the top-recommended solution. You purchase a new control arm that comes with new bushings and a ball joint already installed.

• Procedure: Safely lift and support the vehicle, remove the wheel. Unbolt the control arm at the ball joint (connected to the steering knuckle) and at its two mounting points to the subframe. Transfer any necessary ancillary parts (like a stabilizer bar link) to the new arm, then install in reverse order. A final wheel alignment is absolutely mandatory.
• Success Rate: Very high. This addresses all wear points in one action.
• Note: Always replace in pairs (both left and right sides) even if only one is noisy, as the other is likely not far behind.

2. Individual Bushing and/or Ball Joint Replacement

A less common but sometimes attempted repair, typically to save on parts cost.

• Procedure: The old control arm is removed from the vehicle. Using a large hydraulic press, the old bushings and ball joint are pressed out, and new ones are pressed in. The arm is then reinstalled.
• Success Rate: Moderate, but highly dependent on having the correct tools and expertise. Many DIYers report this being far more difficult than anticipated. Pressing in bushings incorrectly can damage them immediately.
• Recommendation: Only attempt this if you have access to a press and proper bushing installation tools. For most, the marginal parts savings are not worth the added labor and risk.

3. Diagnosis of Interlinked Electrical Issues

In cases where OBD codes (P0060, P1659, P0600) related to module communication or control are present with suspension noises, a secondary diagnostic path is needed.

• Procedure: The mechanical control arm issue should be resolved first, as it is the most likely culprit. After repair, clear the codes. If they persist, diagnosis should focus on the related control modules, wiring harnesses, and sensors (like wheel speed sensors) that may have been affected by excessive suspension movement or during the repair process. In a few instances, owners mentioned issues with paddle shifter modules or other electronic controls sharing a network, causing confusing codes.
• Success Rate: For the suspension noise, low if only pursuing electrical fixes. The mechanical repair is typically the first and most critical step.

Budget Planning

Costs can vary dramatically based on your vehicle model, part quality, and who performs the work.

• Parts Cost:

  • Complete Control Arm Assembly (Each): $50 - $250 for aftermarket parts. OEM parts from the dealer can range from $200 to $600 or more per arm.
  • Bushing/Kits Only (Each): $20 - $100. Remember, you'll typically need two bushings and a ball joint per side.
  • Additional Parts: Budget for new hardware (bolts/nuts) if recommended, and always for a wheel alignment ($80 - $120).

• Labor Cost (Professional Shop):

  • Replacing two control arm assemblies typically takes 2-4 hours of labor. At shop rates of $100-$150/hour, expect $400 - $800 in labor plus the cost of the parts and alignment.

• DIY vs. Shop Comparison:

  • DIY (Assembly Replacement): A competent DIYer with a good socket set, jack, jack stands, and a torque wrench can save the entire labor cost. The total DIY cost for two aftermarket arms and an alignment could be $200 - $600. The pressing-in-bushings method requires a significant tool investment (press, adapters) and is not cost-effective for a one-time job.
  • Professional Shop: The clear choice if you lack tools, time, or confidence. The total bill for both sides using quality aftermarket parts often falls in the $800 - $1,500 range. Using OEM parts will push this higher.

Prevention Tips

While control arms are wear items, you can extend their life significantly.

1. Drive Mindfully: Avoid potholes, curbs, and speed bumps at high speed. The impact force is the primary killer of bushings and ball joints.
2. Listen and Feel: Pay attention to the early telltale signs like minor clunks or slight steering wander. Addressing a worn bushing early can prevent damage to the ball joint or other suspension components.
3. Regular Inspections: During tire rotations or oil changes, have your mechanic check for play in the ball joints and cracks/tears in the control arm bushings. Shaking the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions (for ball joints) and 3 and 9 o'clock (for tie rods) can reveal play.
4. Keep it Clean: In rust-prone areas, regularly washing the undercarriage can help prevent the seized bolts that make DIY replacement a nightmare. Applying penetrating oil to the control arm bolts a day before a planned repair is always a wise move.
5. Quality Parts: When replacement is necessary, opt for quality aftermarket or OEM parts. The cheapest options often use inferior rubber for bushings that degrades quickly.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 105 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.