2020 Honda Accord CV Axle Issues? Symptoms, Diagnosis & Fix

What You Need to Know

If you're hearing a rhythmic clicking or popping noise from your front wheels when turning, especially at low speeds, you're likely dealing with a worn CV axle. Based on analysis of 135 owner discussions, the definitive solution is to replace the faulty CV axle assembly. This is a very common repair, and while it can be a moderate DIY job for those with tools and experience, many owners opt for professional installation due to the physical demands and need for precise torque settings.

Solutions

The solutions are straightforward, as the issue is almost always a physically damaged component that requires replacement.

1. Replace the CV Axle Assembly (Most Common Fix) This is the solution cited in the vast majority of discussions. A worn-out CV joint cannot be reliably repaired; the entire half-shaft assembly is swapped out.

• Process: The old axle is removed from the transmission and wheel hub, and a new or remanufactured unit is installed.
• Why it works: It directly addresses the source of the noise—the damaged internal bearings and race of the CV joint.
• Owner Success Rate: Extremely high when the correct part is installed properly. This is considered a permanent fix.

2. Inspect and Replace Associated Hardware While replacing the axle is the core fix, owners frequently mention the importance of also replacing the hardware.

• Common Parts: The axle nut is almost always a single-use, stretch-style nut that must be replaced. Failing to do so risks it loosening. New cotter pins for the castle nut (if applicable) are also essential.
• Supporting Items: During the repair, it's an ideal time to inspect and potentially replace the wheel bearing seal where the axle enters the hub, to prevent future grease leaks or contamination.

Diagnosis Steps

Diagnosing a bad CV axle is one of the more straightforward car problems.

1. Listen for the Tell-Tale Noise: The classic symptom is a loud, rhythmic click-click-click that increases in speed as you accelerate. It is most pronounced during full-lock turns (like when parking).
2. Perform a Visual Inspection: Look at the CV axle boots (the black rubber bellows on each end of the axle). Cracks, tears, or grease slung all over the inside of your wheel or undercarriage are a dead giveaway. A boot tear lets grease out and dirt in, destroying the joint.
3. Check for Vibration: A badly worn inner CV joint can cause a shudder or vibration during acceleration, especially from a stop. This can sometimes be confused with other issues, so pair it with the other checks.
4. Lift and Shake: With the vehicle safely lifted and the tire removed, try to shake the CV axle at the joints. Excessive play or a "clunk" indicates wear. You can also rotate the axle by hand while feeling for grinding.

Underlying Issues

The CV axle itself is the underlying issue, but certain conditions accelerate its failure.

• Torn CV Boot: This is the #1 precursor to total joint failure. Once the protective boot is compromised, the special grease escapes, and abrasive contaminants enter, leading to rapid wear. Many discussions note that catching and repairing a torn boot early can save the entire axle.
• Physical Impact: Hitting a large pothole, curb, or rock can damage the joint or boot directly.
• Lack of Lubrication: Even without a torn boot, old, degraded grease can lead to premature wear over very high mileage.
• Modified or High-Power Vehicles: Owners with tuned engines or those who frequently use aggressive launch control report shorter CV axle life due to the increased stress.

What You'll Notice

Owners describe a very consistent set of symptoms:

• "Clicking on Turns": This phrase appears constantly. The noise is unmistakable once you've heard it.
• "Grease Everywhere": A visual discovery, often on the inside of the front tire or the lower control arm.
• "Vibration When I Accelerate": More common with inner joint failure, feeling like a shudder coming from the floorboard.
• "It Got Worse Fast": Many report that once the clicking starts, it progresses quickly from only on sharp turns to being audible during slight turns and even straight-line driving.

Real Owner Costs

Costs vary significantly between DIY and professional repair, and by vehicle model.

• Parts Cost:

  • Remanufactured CV Axle: $60 - $150 per side.
  • New CV Axle: $100 - $300+ per side.
  • Axle Nut & Seal Kit: $5 - $20.

• Professional Labor Cost:

  • Shop rates typically quote 1.5 to 2.5 hours of labor per side.
  • Total Shop Cost (Parts & Labor): $300 - $700+ per axle, depending on the vehicle.

• DIY Cost:

  • Your cost is essentially just the parts ($65 - $320) plus any tool rentals (like a large breaker bar, torque wrench, and possibly a slide hammer or pickle fork for stubborn hubs).
  • Savings: DIY can easily save $250 - $500 per axle.

Need to Know

• Can I just replace the boot? If the joint itself isn't yet making noise, a boot kit is a cheap, preventative repair. However, if clicking is present, the joint is already damaged and must be replaced. Owners who tried just booting a noisy joint wasted time and money.
• Should I replace both sides? It's often recommended. If one side has failed due to age/mileage, the other is likely not far behind. Doing both saves on future labor.
• Is it safe to drive? You can typically drive for a short time, but it's a risk. A completely failed CV joint can seize or separate, leaving you stranded or causing loss of vehicle control.
• What about aftermarket vs. OEM? Remanufactured units from reputable brands are generally considered reliable for this part. Many owners report success with quality aftermarket axles, noting that paying for premium OEM is often unnecessary for daily drivers.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 135 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.